Hi Rusty13,

In the decade that has passed since starting this thread I have arrived at some conclusions based on recent experiences installing a 4 link on another project.

If and one when one day I get back to building another FE or FC which I probably will, i would run a parallel bar 4 link with watts link using a BW diff and Falcon link pin.

go for the longest bar lengths you can…

Alternatively, if you take the entire rear end out of an EF Falcon you could utilise that factory 4 link and just fab up chassis mounts.. this would give you a cheap alternative but you will need to accept the factory design (compromises) built into that design.

In any case expect some floor modifications plus more thought for locating items in the area like springs, or coil overs, maybe  airbags, shocks, bump stops, exhaust, fuel lines etc etc.

I have photos but not relevant to FE/FC.

there are some 4 links out there that have been installed.. it will also depend on the level of complexity you are comfortable of tackling.

Cheers

Ed

Haydn,

Have you tried running the existing setup with a shroud?

A shroud makes a significant difference to the amount of air actually being pulled through the core rather than from circulating air within the engine bay. 

Sounds like the condenser is making life tough for air flow.  I did a radiator and shroud experiment a few years back and found that an engine fan with shroud was the most efficient form of cooling.

Cheers

Ed

I didn't know exactly where the pivot point was going to end up  so the mounts were made to be adjustable.

as it rotates, the centre becomes apparent.. once balanced they turn around easily.

the adjustable mount also makes it easier to load and unload.

Bumper mounts.

Thanks Ken, is there somewhere that we can get replacement glass? Or is it just a matter of getting some cut?

Cheers

Ralph Moore should have templates, he did a complete set of flat glass (excluding rear wagon section) for my wagon.

Looking great JB!  nice

Upol Raptor

Gday Haydn,

Good question,  something I have also been giving thought recently too.

I am also finishing the rearmost X member on my jailbar and I thought of just replicating a Hayman Reese hitch receiver in or under the rearmost xmember.

The x member spanning the rails will be uprated to the same spec as an 1800kg rated bar using the same wall thickness as the commercially available unit.

The hitch receiver will be mounted identically to the x member with identical flanges and gussets.

cant see why the engineer would fail it, considering they will sign off on the entire build anyway.

You could also just put the crush tubes or captive nuts in the rails and fab up your own later.  I was quoted close to 2K for an 1800kg rated bar for my 90 rodeo but ended up buying one off ebay for $150... they probably should be labelled with manufactures label etc.. but if your workmanship and welding is sound then.. why not?  the only mod would be to fit new end plates.. easy if you've just boxed and built a chassis.

Cheers

Ed

Martyn,

Just a question. How will you get the car up on the tray?

It looks like you may have access to some pretty big lifting equipment.. but if using ramps they would need to be very long.

Cheers

Ed

Nice truck Martyn,

Would look great a little bit lower too.

Cheers

Ed

Wow , alot of thought has been put into that wiring.

I found there is a spot on the back of the top door hinge (front door) that you can run wire concealed and sneaky like with minor clearancing.... trailer core wire is great stuff.

Cheers

Ed

Hey Dave,

Ive always wanted to use a 1UZ..

Guess it's time for an update... things have been going slower than anticipated but Im not really fussed.. that's just the nature of projects.

internal x member has been tacked in, and rear suspension is more or less done.. delays have largely been due to re-working areas I was not happy with.  All the 4 link brackets were made up as the kit ones are horrible and don't allow good placement.

Currently designing a dropout gearbox x member, which sounds easy but i'm finding the need for a lathe to turn up bushes and various tubes and bits and bobs.. with Xmas approaching maybe Santa may bring me one.

I usually post up pics on my facebook page but for those not in there.. here are some shots.



4 link top view




Cheers

Ed

the dual plane and 4bbl TB is a much better look 

Isn't that about the 100th time you've asked that Rod?

Do a 6 cylinder it's easier.

Very nice piece there Pete.

Looking forward to seeing pics of both these cars Slim.

I'm sure your kids have good taste, they've always been around cool cars.

Cheers

Ed

is this for the new sedan Slim?

looks great Pedro,

like the black dynamat... makes a huge improvement to cabin comfort.

PS with the roller I use a wall paper roller,it has a dense rubbber wheel

I think it needs bright purple leads.

Cheers

Ed

I just use 5 or 7 core trailer wire into doors.

flexible, tightly bound and easy to run.

the datsun handbrake switches are similar to LC-LJ door switches as well.

Cheers

Ed

+1 on the fibreglass.

Bunnings is expensive for fibreglass, commercial suppliers are far cheaper and have varying grades of mat dependent on job.

The polyester will bond to the masonite OK and it sounds like a parcel shelf or trim panel so flexing shouldn't be an issue.

the biggest challenge will be getting the masonite to lay down flat or in the same plane at the joins.. Keep in mind fibreglass conforms to the shape so if the buck or plug is warped, the end job will be too... masking tape on the reverse side would help. 

Beware not to try lay glass over masking tape as it does not stick..  In fact it's very useful to tape up surfaces when moulding.

I would be leaning towards reconstructing the masonite, before making a plug of it from expanding foam, gelcoat and fibreglass or even plaster of paris.  All the irregularities could then be addressed and removed from the new plug to create a good quality reproduction in fibreglass.  It's a more involved process though.

Cheers

Ed