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Author Topic: FC Another Tassie car  (Read 172426 times)
fe350chev
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« Reply #180 on: December 23, 2014, 01:51:10 PM »

Sorry if I missed it but what sort of paint ya gunna use.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
NickZ
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« Reply #181 on: December 24, 2014, 08:12:38 AM »

I used acrylic paint. this was my first car that I've fully painted, I made a lot of mistakes along the way but acrylic is easy to fix.
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fe350chev
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« Reply #182 on: December 24, 2014, 09:44:18 AM »

Ok. I think it's cheaper but not necessarily easier anymore. If you rub 2k down to good paint with 1200, then you just go over it with colour then clear straight away and it's finished! Much easier than acrylic, but I never believed it either. Is def more expensive. But I think they have removed vital ingredients from the newer acrylics to a point that I don't trust them anymore. Dad's a French polisher and he knows a fair bit about it all. I'm not a painter though, it's just what I've been finding more recently with paints.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #183 on: December 24, 2014, 09:20:49 PM »

I have found that it does seem to chip easier, I have a lot of chips where ive only just bumped it.
when i paint my FJ I will use 2k and see how I go. then I may repaint the fc.
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fe350chev
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« Reply #184 on: December 25, 2014, 09:18:48 AM »

Its so easy. Once you try it u will never go back. But I'm sure the acrylics are being made different. There's less steps, epoxy, topcoat then clear, no rubbing of base coat.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #185 on: December 26, 2014, 09:53:31 PM »

Yeah Acrylic is real easy to fix and if you get it right it will look great for a long time but most of all it won't kill you nearly as quick as 2 pack will and not as illegal to paint at home....Couple of bonuses just there...
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« Reply #186 on: December 26, 2014, 11:08:04 PM »

If you can ask around it's best to try and hire a booth if possible. But makes sure you use a good mask with ANY paint. No paint is safe to breathe in. People don't think about their eyes too. Make sure you get a good mask when spraying acrylic, like a sundstrom with multiple filters. People seem to be experimenting with success using iso free hi fill primer fillers, then sealing that side of it and then using a base coat without the nastier hardners til they get it in a booth. Then they hang doors and everything and do a 1200 final rub and it's just a matter of doing the base coats with no rubbing and then applying the clear. I think it's a matter of how much budget you have vs the use of the car. I'm going to start using a few different methods on some interior parts and inners etc. The only problem hiring a booth is it can feel a bit rushed.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #187 on: January 11, 2015, 12:28:42 PM »

Been buffing and putting on stainless.

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FireKraka
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« Reply #188 on: January 11, 2015, 02:21:23 PM »

Love your paint work Nick it looks great I am going to try to paint my ute project I might have to lean on you for some info.
Good to see another one almost finished.
Regards
Neil H
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NickZ
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« Reply #189 on: January 11, 2015, 02:36:30 PM »

its ok paint, but i need to block it back and buff again, but im happy to leave it for the moment as over the years it will get better as it gets buffed.
it acrylic as said before, but as it was my first paint job so i put 3 thick coats of  clear so i had plenty of paint to block back if it was to orange peel and i wanted plenty of shine.
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DJ
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« Reply #190 on: January 11, 2015, 02:42:34 PM »

The paint & trim look great. That colour combination is one of the best I reckon, looks fresh & clean.
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Dave
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« Reply #191 on: January 11, 2015, 06:13:14 PM »

Hope mine turns out half as good, although mine is the reverse of yours ( grey body with white inserts) and is the second gen. paint scheme (chrome mould at the rear pillar).
Jim
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« Reply #192 on: January 12, 2015, 07:42:53 PM »

Sorry nickz to jump in on your thread but I am a spray painter by trade with about 35 years in the industry and maybe I can help with some of the nitty grittys about paints and painting if that's cool.....
I done my apprenticeship with duco paint which was a form of acrylic loaded with lead properties for there build and there consistencies, but because of the lead issues they had to remove all lead which created a lot of dramas along the way to get it back to how it used to be, but I believe they have failed. And in order to get a good build with enough to buff then you really need around 6 coats of clear, I don't think you have enough on there...just my opinion....and its a good idea to let the paint dry completely meaning it needs to evaporate all its thinners before you should buff and generally that's around 4 to 6 weeks, then don't polish for at least the same amount of time because this will seal the paint and won't help with the curing.
2K is a chemical reaction so once it's dry that's it all over and usually after baking allow about 4 hours and it's done, air dry is 2 days as it won't dry any more.
I am totally 2pak these days and find it much easier to rework than acrylic, you don't get the clogging in your sandpaper and like I said the chemical reaction is where it works to an advantage, you can buff 2k the same as acrylic but you can polish and seal straight away no need to wait.
If anyone wants to know anymore on this stuff feel free to ask and I will be happy to answer any questions, or look me up on Frankies restorations on FB.....and sorry nickz again.
Cheers Frankie.
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fe350chev
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« Reply #193 on: January 15, 2015, 10:03:51 PM »

Looks great. Are you planning on keeping the car very long. You have done a good job for your first job. At least you got something fairly complete now in fairly good time too. My dad has been giving me tips on clear coats etc. It's good to read up about the 2k process but there's a fair bit of weird info out there. Like blokes talking about what shine they get off the gun etc. But it's a bit different with 2k base coat. I'm going to be much more focussed than ever on the pre base coat preparation because once you get to that stage the rest happens a lot quicker than the old acrylic days.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #194 on: January 16, 2015, 07:56:09 AM »

im planning to keep the car, the kids will get the cars when im gone.
My FJ will be 2pac
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TTV6FC
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« Reply #195 on: January 18, 2015, 11:40:09 PM »

I love this car, mainly because if you go back to the start of this thread and have a look how it began many people would have said "that is too rusty"! I looked at it and said "I hope he persists with it because it can be fixed" and that is exactly what you have done. You're perseverance is admirable. Keep up the great work, can't wait to see it finished and see another old Holden saved... Cheers, Jamie.
 
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« Reply #196 on: January 19, 2015, 07:54:32 AM »

im planning to keep the car, the kids will get the cars when im gone.
My FJ will be 2pac
Me too although my kids won't wait till I'm dead
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NickZ
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« Reply #197 on: February 14, 2016, 10:30:55 PM »

wow another year has gone, not much has changed.
Did a little bit of work today, Got about 2 hours of work left and will be ready for rego.


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TTV6FC
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« Reply #198 on: February 18, 2016, 08:48:48 PM »

Beautiful....that is all... Cool
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« Reply #199 on: February 19, 2016, 10:39:09 PM »

Berry nice
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