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Author Topic: 365 weeks...  (Read 691129 times)
JB
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Jason Blanchard
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« Reply #300 on: March 31, 2011, 01:18:04 PM »

Put these up really early on the thread.

try http://www.buildbookusa.com

I think I got 2 for $25 US plus postage.

Cheers
JB
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FE 4 ME
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« Reply #301 on: March 31, 2011, 03:31:36 PM »

JB thankx,
   must of read past that post, as i do remember the electrics all over your floor...

cheers

"Have a Great Holden ( FE ) Day !!! "  Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy

FE 4 ME
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JB
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« Reply #302 on: April 04, 2011, 07:05:15 PM »

Needed 4 trips to Bursons to get 2 bloody belts that fit... Finally got the lengths correct and then got to weld the idler onto the cast steel.

This is the end result. Now I need to get hold of the alternator that will fit, make the brackets to suit, and get the belt size correct  Roll Eyes







Can also see in this pic that I have to get a length of cable to go to the battery in the back.

Cheers
JB
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FC427
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« Reply #303 on: April 04, 2011, 08:09:28 PM »

When I need belts I have a long belt that I have cut to give me a long length that I put in place then measure it ,  all belts have the measurement on them so you can go to parts store and ask for the right length .....FC427.....
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« Reply #304 on: April 04, 2011, 08:18:46 PM »


that's a good idea!

do you measure the inside or the outside of the cut belt?

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"when I was a young lout, it was all about sex, drugs, rock'n'roll, beer and hot Holdens. Now I'm an old lout, but I've still got the old Holdens and beer..."
JB
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« Reply #305 on: April 04, 2011, 08:41:44 PM »

My problem was that I had pulled the engine out of the Commodore nearly 2 years ago now, all of the old belts went. So it was hit and miss for me.  Sad



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« Reply #306 on: April 04, 2011, 08:46:46 PM »

that's a good idea!

do you measure the inside or the outside of the cut belt?


Inside Jack  ....FC427......
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As I lay rubber down the street I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide please dear god protect my ride
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« Reply #307 on: April 04, 2011, 10:39:53 PM »

This might be a very novice response or advise,
 But would a piece of strong string or nylon rope work if you ran it around the pully and around the route you need for the belt, pull it tight, than mark where it joins.. Having made sure all your adjustments to tighten the belt where at their lowest to enable the belt to be tightened when fitted

wouldnt that give you the right measurement ?

Just a thought that would make it easier for you

hope the idea will work for you JB  ?? Huh

good to see you have the heart installed

"Have a Great Holden ( FE...ute  Wink ) day !!!"  Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy

FE 4 ME
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« Reply #308 on: April 05, 2011, 05:19:35 AM »

FE  4 Me its because they sit up on the step that i think you would be out a bit on the length using string?


JB Do you have a folder or a tool box to write numbers on ?


I blew a slave cylinder on the clutch in my fc one day do you think i could remember what the hell i had used turned out to be a 80,s toyota corona slave....


I always write belts and numbers in a book now.


Pete
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JB
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« Reply #309 on: April 05, 2011, 09:56:53 AM »

Thanks Pete, I do. I put all of the belt and hose jackets away for when I need them again... Made that mistake before  Grin Grin

FE 4 ME, I tried that method, failed dismally, FC 427 was right the bit of wire I had went into the grooves and gave me the wrong measurement.

Part of the fun I guess.

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JB
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« Reply #310 on: April 05, 2011, 12:11:45 PM »

Hehehehe i guess it was too easy to be true...
    was trying to think of something easy that might have worked for you...but i guess you've been there tried that

which isnt a surprise when i think look at the quality and skill of your work

keep it up, you're doing great ( hehehe without my help   Smiley  )

NOTE : Have fun while your doing it, cause it looks like at the rate you're going you will be finished sooner than you think  !!!

"Have a Great Holden ( FE ) Day !!! "  Cheesy Cheesy Cheesy

FE 4 ME
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« Reply #311 on: April 06, 2011, 07:01:03 PM »

After some staring, a little bit of thinking.... Then some more staring I came up with a plan.

Took the original bracket off the engine for the alternator. This created enough space to make another bracket to accommodate the original alternator and not get another one, as I have a spare.

Started with some steel and the bracket containing the idler pulley.



Rotated the alternator a little, drilled a hole and extended the bracket, drilled another hole and now its sits in place nicely missing everything.  Grin Grin



Now I have to make a backing plate in here that can then bolt to the front plate to make it rigid... Can't weld the 2 together or I won't be able to remove the alternator.




Work getting in the way again... see what I can do tomorrow arvo when finished.

JB
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« Reply #312 on: April 08, 2011, 05:33:11 PM »

Measured and cut the rear bracket out this afternoon for the alternator, after a little trial and error got it in. Just need to get some spacers machined somewhere to make it even more rigid and then get another belt...  Roll Eyes The bracket for the cruise will also mount onto the rear bracket.







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« Reply #313 on: April 08, 2011, 07:34:55 PM »

Hey JB,

Little by little it's all coming together. Keep up the great work!

Keith
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JB
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« Reply #314 on: April 09, 2011, 06:10:51 PM »

You are correct Keith.... Little by little, and I got a little more done today.

Put the cruise control cable bracket on, and the a spacer to seperate the main battery cables going to the alternator and starter.

Question for anyone... There are 2 cables running back to the battery, one from the starter and one from the alternator - Has anyone relocated the battery to the boot before? And do you need to run 2 cables or can I just run a larger one back to do the same job??

Cheers
JB







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« Reply #315 on: April 09, 2011, 07:10:50 PM »

Just run a larger cable back to the boot. I used 25 sq mm welding cable for mine as it's plenty large enough and also very flexible. I have used the chassis as the negative path by welding nuts to the chassis and bolting the earth cables to them. Hope this helps, cheers, Jack
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JB
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« Reply #316 on: April 09, 2011, 07:56:31 PM »

Thanks Jack, I really like the idea of the welding wire... Will have to go and find a supplier close by and get a length plus some crimps for the ends.

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« Reply #317 on: April 09, 2011, 10:36:53 PM »

JB,

I too have done what Jack is doing, running welding wire through to the boot and using the body for the earth, just make sure that wherever you have an earth, scrape the paint off to ensure that you get a really good contact. Alternatively use a star washer, the type that when they bite in, they will break through the paint.

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« Reply #318 on: April 10, 2011, 11:07:54 AM »

Progress is looking good JB, Im enjoying the updates.

Are you going to be using a circuit breaker with the battery relocation and what size cable did you have in mind?
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JB
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« Reply #319 on: April 10, 2011, 03:15:52 PM »

I like the idea of the 25mm cable, and probably protect it with an 80A inline fuse, not sure yet. The other idea is for an external point in the engine bay for a battery charger/jumper leads that I have seen for other cars, which saves trying to get to the battery if it goes flat.

Again have to do a little more research.

Cheers
JB
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