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To change the bulb:
a) Put the chrome ring back onto the car. Don't need to touch anything outside the engine bay to change the bulb.
b) white plug off first. Wiggle/jiggle then pull. Dont pull by the wires - pull by the white plug.
c) remove rubber dust boot, unhook spring clip and old bulb nearly falls out.
d) new bulb in, don't touch the glass bit.
e) refit spring clip, refit rubber boot.
f) refit white plug.
g) Voila! New lights.

Cheers,
Harv

I would ask them if they faced the flywheel when they replaced the clutch, did they do the clutch & pressure plate or just the clutch? The shuddering could be from the flywheel being glazed or warped.
Jim

Surferboy
Some of us will be wondering whether your headlights were originally Bosch units. These have no springs, one static screw that goes all the way to bottom, and adjusting screws at 90deg to each other. A photo of the bucket sans lens would be helpful.
Cheers
Clay


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I have one old slotted screw & 2 new allenkey screws holding the light onto the body.  I think these should be adjusting screws but they screw tight to the bodywork (no springs). if i don't screw them all the way in the chrome surround doesn't sit on properly

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WHOOPS.   I forgot something
this is why i pay other people to do things

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Hey Surferboy,
Remove rubber dust cover at back of head light.
Release the tension of the spring loaded clip that holds the light bulb in.
Globe should fall out.

Regards Seb

Just a bit more forceful. Wiggle left, wiggle right, wiggle front, wiggle back. Pull! Repeat.

When you get the bulb out, do not touch the new bulb on the glass area. Handle it only by the steel end of the bulb. Any grease off your fingers will make the new H4 bulb burn out really quickly. If you accidently put your fingers on the glass, clean it thoroughly with metho.

Cheers,
Harv

knowing the wagon has modifications that has mechanics scratching thier heads...
How hard could it be to change a light bulb ? i thought to myself
pulled out the headlight ( thats a story of it's own!) and thought i just unplug the wires, unclip the bulb, pull it out then do reverse to fix it.

This white bit does NOT want to budge

Do i just need to be more forcefull or gently persistent  ?

or am i pulling apart the wrong bit ! ! ! ?

surferboy
(the clueless)

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Thanks Harve, I’m having a few things done to car . Crank end float probs , plus I’m getting the modified head gasket fitted while I’m at it . The clutch was only done 16 months ago by the same workshop , and now they are telling me the oil may be the problem . It has been shuddering at take off particularly when the engine is hot . Oh well we’ll see . Cheers

Its possible, but very, very improbable. If it has, you will smell it... gearbox oil smells like liquid arse (a delightful expression Number 1 Son taught me during his first gearbox oil change  ).

The early bearings were of the open type. Gearbox oil could (in theory) flow through the bearing cage and along the shaft towards the clutch. The oil would have to have a set of mountain climbing boots, as there is a slinger ring along that shaft. The oil would flow down the slinger, put on it's mountain boots then try to climb back up onto the shaft. This would be pretty hard work if the shaft was static, and impossible if the slinger was spinning (when the car was run the next morning). Our adventurous oil would then have to flow along the archimedes screw that is cut into the shaft end (possible). Any oil that drips off the slinger or the screw flows through a drain hole in the casing snout and into the bellhousing. The oil, probably weary by now if it has escaped the slinger and screw, would have to keep flowing along the input shaft, find it's way to the clutch, then flow onto it.

If the gearbox has been overhauled, the new bearings are sealed (not open) units. It is really, really hard for the oil to get past the seals to even get a run up to the slinger.

Cheers,
Harv