Found Object

[Pokitren]

I learnt something today. I thought I had a fancy protractor for measuring brass fitting seat faces (SAE 45o versus 37o AN versus the funky 60o Lucas) on old carbs and fuel kit. Never knew it was a contact goniometer 

Cheers,
Harv

Wonderful! Now I know too A century you live, a century you learn!

[ardiesse]

I made up the door rubber retainer for the RHR dogleg, but then got distracted . . .

and put on my Humpy Helpline hat.  "Six-volt Delco electrics, very slow to turn over.  Replaced battery, thinking it was dead.  No improvement."  The starter motor was in dire need of some secret knowledge.

No, you can't replace Holden Delco starter brushes and springs with Chev parts and expect it to work.  That, and so many other little details.  This wasn't the first starter I've had to rebuild from the ground up after it had been "reconditioned".

And the test engine I used was "Found Object's", so there was another gotcha waiting - the rearmost cast rib on the crankcase.  It clears a Bosch starter, but interferes with a Delco starter.  The service bulletin says to grind the rib down so there's clearance between starter body and crankcase if fitting a later engine to an FX with Delco electricals.

Rob

[Rod]

Rob,

I must say I look forward to your updates. You are very thorough and the detail you provide is of so much help to others. I am not sure if I have said this but gee you need to consider getting on the Youtube bandwagon like a lot of others. You would be pleasantly suprised by the number of subscribers you would get.

Keep it coming. Cheers Rod

[ardiesse]

RHR dogleg door rubber retainer massaged into shape, then welded in place.

Six-volt Delco starter motor back "home".  One happy Humpy owner.  Didn't realise that a six-volt starter should turn the engine over as fast as a twelve . . .

And I made up a new rear seat rail repair, just in front of the LHR wheel arch.  I'm waiting for paint to dry.  Next weekend I'll drill it for plug welds and stitch it into place.

Rob

[ardiesse]

Humpy Helpline (III) - Bosch generator.  "The guy told me it was reconditioned".  Some time in the '60s perhaps.  It had spent some time with water pooled up inside, the brushes were worn out, and the insulation on the D+ lead had fallen apart.  One strand of the wire had welded itself to the through bolt, causing an internal short, which no doubt caused the generator to be "benched".

Rear seat rail repair plug-welded and stitched into place.



Still to be replaced is the narrow strip running forward to the rear floor seam.

Rob

[ardiesse]

One repair section per day . . .



The rotten portion of the "back seat cushion floor" fixed.

Well, except that there's a good-size section on the passenger's side floor under the rear seat cushion that's showing daylight (just out of frame in the photo above).  That, and the driver's side version of the section I just replaced.

Rob

[ardiesse]

Same repair, other side . . .



But I surprised myself today.  I managed two repair sections instead of one.  And I think I'll be able to save the RHR floor pan.  The remaining piece will be easy to fabricate from sheet, much like the repair I just did inside the door opening.

Rob

[my8thholden]

Rob ..When you have finished all the body repairs , are you planning a rust preventative treatment ,not on the external surfaces inside and out , but inside all the hollow sections , frame , cross members , inside sills and pillars etc ,etc .IF so, with what and how very interested to know ,or other readers who have or intending to do that ...thanks Vern ..

[Errol62]

If you can’t get clean metal and paint on the inner surface then I reckon Fisholene is the best thing you can use. Yes, you need to reapply it every few years, but it will soak in to rust and residual crap you haven’t been able to remove, displace any moisture and prevent further oxidation. Paint and cavity wax will just sit on top.


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[ardiesse]

I haven't made my mind up completely yet.

After I form the replacement section and drill it for plug-welds, I spray a couple of light coats of Dy-Mark Rust reformer (now discontinued), or Dy-Mark Quick Dry Primer (new product, but seems to be similar).  Before closing up hollow sections I then paint in red oxide primer to cover all the welds but the last one.

I'm thinking of doing what Clay suggests and going nuts with fish-oil once all the rust repairs are done.

Rob

[Errol62]

With the sills I drill a 3/4” hole just in front of the b pillar under the front scuff plate so I can fit a garden hose and try and flood out any dirt and small bits of scale through the drain holes. When dry I plug the drain holes and use a plastic hose with 360* nozzle on  a shutz gun to flood with fisholene. On the rotisserie you can twirl the body around and get an all over coating but really it’s the lower parts that are most susceptible. I have no doubt there is a fair quantity of rust and scale inside my ute sills, which are original, but the rust should never come through.


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[my8thholden]

OK ..Thanks for your thoughts ..In the dark distant memories of my mind , I seem to recall a kit , basically a pump made by Ferropro ( I think ) and you had to drill holes , pump in fish oil , and fit plastic plugs provided in the drilled holes ..It had a distinct fish smell which would fade away ,when working on my car on a couple of places the heat of the grinder occasionally I got a fish oil smell  . I have a tin of Ferropro fish oil , probably had it for 45 yrs ..but no pump/applicator...
 I am thinking of a garden pump sprayer , Nylex 5 litre plunger pump ..extend the clear PVC tube a bit with a heavier walled tube ,maybe braided air line hose , and fit a 360deg pintle nozzle ..often used in plant nurserys / agriculture ...get some blanking plugs to suit the hole that will be needed to fit the nozzle /tube through and work the tube back and forth in cavities covering internal surface ..Its a wonder some company hasn't come up with such a solution to address this situation..keep well Vern

[ekute]

Here’s another option, drill a couple of 1/2” holes under the scuff plates, block off sill drain holes fill sills with used engine oil. Unblock drain holes and drain oil into containers (not on lawn or driveway!) then park in garage with flattened cartons underneath drain holes for next week. Voila! Sorta like where the engine or gearbox leaks cover the underneath of your car, no rust there!


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[Errol62]

Yes, some use old sump oil. The fisholene these days odour is very slight.


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[my8thholden]

certainly lot simpler way of getting some protrction..THanks

[ardiesse]

Miracle: It didn't rain.  Well, it did, but not for long enough to stop proceedings.

Sooo - it's been a month since I lasted posted a photo.  Let me rectify that.  I repaired the strip of left rear floor pan that sits on top of the inner sill.



While I'm doing floor-related things on the passenger side, the rotten patch inboard of the B-pillar is going to need attention.  Next weekend (fingers crossed in the Jupiter Pluvius department).

Rob

[Harv]

Neat work, though somehow I don't think you are pleasing Robigus.

Cheers,
Harv

[ardiesse]

Mister J. Pluvius is as capricious as ever, but took his eyes off the ball late in the afternoon.  I took advantage of the lapse in attention to drill spot welds and slice up some floor:



I shouldn't really be surprised that I'm still turning up loads of caked-in dirt.

Rob

[Errol62]

No doubt found object has seen a few unsealed surfaces pass beneath its running gear in the past 63 years or so. Take solace in the fact it wasn’t a farm ute, not that that fact rules out the possibility of having been a paddock basher. Though the lack of a sunroof, spotlight mounting and general condition of the floor pan do so.


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[ardiesse]

Yep.  I suppose that's so.  The stratigraphic record contains one layer of very iron-stained sand, and another layer of tan-coloured dusty soil.  I wouldn't be surprised if "Found Object" had lived in at least two different areas with many dirt roads.

After I scraped out the dirt and chipped the rust away, here's what remained:



A hacksaw blade down the hollow section worked a treat for freeing up the dirt I couldn't see.  I'm pleased that there were no rust holes in either the jacking point, or, more importantly, the inner sill.  I wire-brushed and rust-converted the inside, found the paper pattern that I made for the repair on the driver's side, turned it upside-down, and set to work.  Here is the repair section for the "longeron" (OK, so I ended up cutting it a couple of millimetres too short, but I can bridge the gaps with weld and a quenching block).



And then it just seemed like a chore.  At which point I decided that I'd weld this piece in next weekend.  It'll give me a chance to red-oxide-prime the inside of the jacking point too.

Rob