Found Object

[ardiesse]

Vern,

Haec epistula pro te est.

Pars interiora alae dextrae picturata rubra est.



Dum exspecto rubrum siccare, abstuli alam sinistram.



Sordida est!  Multus humus ad ea adhaesus est.  Sed videtur que ala sinsistra minorem ferruginem habet quam alam dextram.  Prime debeo totum illum humum detergere ab ea.

Rob

[DJ]

That's exactly how I would have described it.

[ardiesse]

Once all the crud is scraped away, the secrets are revealed.



This is a little more like what I'd expect.  I have to repair the headlight peak.  No surprise really.

Rob

[my8thholden]

Rob..I only did Latin first year of high school ,and always sat near a window..metal work and wood work got me away from the window ..I doubt there would be any guards not needing work around headlight peaks .join the club....your powering on ..cheers Vern .

[ardiesse]

Vern,

That's one more year of high-school Latin than me.  The classical languages had been abandoned by the time I got to high school.

Rob

[HAD 708]

Rob
I am loving watching this post ,its great very enjoyable.
Thanks
Brett

[ardiesse]

At first I thought I'd only have a couple of pinholes to repair above the reveal line on the LHF guard.  But it quickly turned into an exercise in welding air, so I figured I'd best slice out the diseased portion and replace it.



The "door that keeps giving" is supplying my needs for repair patches.  As for the part of the lower guard below the reveal line, I thought (as usual) that I'd only need maybe a 3 x 3 cm patch.  But as I wire-brushed and scraped, more and more daylight appeared.  I can probably keep the repair to the gently curved section, which means (hopefully) that I only need to bend the donor piece in just one direction.

Let's see.  I have an FB-EK LHF lower guard repair section just in case things go badly wrong.

Which reminds me - Does anybody want a set of four half-door skins for FE-FC (will also suit FB-EK)?  I rescued my doors without needing to use them.

Rob

[Errol62]

Thanks for the offer Rob. Must say, after collecting panels for over 20 years, I’ve been quite a bit luckier with doors and bonnets than I have with guards, or for that matter boot lids and tailgates.


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[my8thholden]

Rob ..You will place the 4 door skins no problems ,I hope its not me that needs them ..keep at it ..Vern

[FireKraka]

Hi Rob;
I might be interested in the door skins mate can you PM me with a price.

Neil

[ardiesse]

Another day at the "office" . . .



That's the lower rear section of the LHF guard repaired.  There's a rust hole at the cowl-bonnet-fender junction (shouldn't be too hard).  The welded reinforcement for the front bumper is rotten, so it'll need the spot-welds to be drilled, removed, both pieces repaired, and reassembled.  Time for a spot-weld drill, I think, because there'll be many more spot welds to drill by the time this project's finished.

And, of course, there's the headlight peak to repair too.  Happy days . . .

Rob

[ardiesse]

The hole at the cowl-bonnet-fender junction is filled in.  I filed the hole out until the metal was more than paper-thin and grafted a piece in.  The shock of welding then pinged a piece of scale off the guard, revealing another hole.  Duly coloured-in with "liquid-metal-gun" and quenching block.  Quenching block nearly became a permanent addition to the guard.  That's the problem with steel.  Use non-ferrous metal instead.

Rob

[Errol62]

Don’t you love WFH Rob? I got 4 coats of primer on the ute today


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[ardiesse]

. . . going over to FB-EK to see.

[Errol62]

Better go down the shed and take some pics.


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[ardiesse]

This is getting a little obsessive-compulsive.



It's the reinforcing bracket where the front bumper bolts on.

I went to Lee Brothers and bought an 8 mm spot-weld drill, and it was fantastic.  Like a hot knife through butter, until I broke the tip off. (Fffricative).  I had an old 5/16" drill, and attempted to rework it into a spot-weld drill.  But it didn't work anywhere near as well.  I'm guessing that toolmakers will have an array of grinders and stones which put a home bench grinder to shame.

Rob

[ardiesse]

The slightly fiddly repair to the LHF guard near the bumper mount is complete.



The bracket is yet to be plug-welded in place, but I figured I'd put a little paint on the hidden surfaces before welding.  Then more paint afterwards.

And now, "What Lies Beneath", a.k.a. the headlight peak:



Beneath the paint was bog.
Beneath the bog was a leaded repair.
Beneath the leaded repair was (i) a piece of galvanised sheet and (ii) a couple of oxy-welded repairs.
And beneath the galvanised sheet and the welded patches was about half an inch of body schutz.

There must have been a time when lead-wiping was the norm for body repairs, and this new-fangled polyester filler was for fine finishing before paint.

There's a few hours' work here.  Most of it will probably be in the inner section where the headlamp bucket goes. The outer part looks gruesome, but will probably fix (relatively) easily.

Rob

[DJ]

Nice job around the bumper mount Rob.
The headlight peak has a lot of history! Good to see it will all be replaced by someone dedicated to produce quality work. Looking forward to see what you come up with protect the peak from filling in future. I have thought about fitting a shaped mud flap to let the moisture & grim slide down the inner guard instead of forcing itself into the peak. That's a far as it's gone so far though.

[Errol62]

Lead was used to fill rust holes in the tailgate reveal on my ute, with wee bit of bog in the spare wheel door reveal bottoms done later I’d say. But the lead was used exclusively where it was used.


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[ardiesse]

I can't see that I'll be driving the car down muddy unsealed roads much, and in the event, a Gerni once home works marvels.

Mind you, I remember driving from Marree to William Creek when it rained, and another time from Birdsville to Innamincka via Haddon's Corner in the rain.  The car was just about sitting on the bump stops from all the mud in the guards.

Clay, you're right about wiping lead.  I thought that once it set and cooled down (a minute or so), you'd get out with the body file, shape the repair, then undercoat and paint.  No need for bog.

Rob