Cams FC Resto

[FireKraka]

Nice Engine mounts Pete 

[camxsmith]

Opened the switches everything looks like a straight swap the only diff is the length of the slider part, but can just swap them over. Can see the diff in the photos.

[camxsmith]

Finally got switch back together looks good and slides easy so happy with the results. Still sand blasting parts and priming as I go.

Also been getting the boot and bonnet ready to send off to the blaster. Took the inner section out of the bonnet so that it can be blasted under and found a better piece to replace it.

Also put an order in at rare spares which have 20% on Saturday the 19th March.    Rare Spares 20% OFF flyer

 

[camxsmith]

HI All    Let me start with a big thanks out to Pete and Graeme, Pete for his saddles and great knowledge that he hands out without complaint. Graeme who invited me around to test drive his car and give some feedback. Which really was just a great experience and really put a smile on the dial. Graeme is just one of those top blokes. So thanks boys.

What I have been doing on the car, well I brought a few items got some full sills, and rear floor pans from rares. I have some HQ stubs which lower the car 20mm, and I will go with V8 HT hubs and Girlock brakes. The Idea is to keep the early stub pattern match the LJ diff. So I have started to clean this parts up. Finished welding on Pete's saddles which look great like always. 
I will also started cutting the sills off then stopped. I thought I should be doing some bracing here. So if any one knows of the best way to brace the old girl up please in lighten me??. I believe I have seen a few posts and I will be going back to find them as well.

Going to get some KBS paint for the under side of the car and suspension parts. Most post I have read say it good, I would love to hear if any one disagrees.??




 

[fcwrangler]

Shouldn't need to brace if you are only doing the outer sills, but if you are doing both inner and outer have a look at my page"my FC rebuild" I used 2" square tube and 1/2" square as cross braces.
Jim

[camxsmith]

Thanks Jim, I just thought I would play it safe and ask.

[JOX515]

Was good to finally catch up, and the feedback on the car was much appreciated.  Steering box rebuild coming up over winter 

[camxsmith]

Well finally got around to cutting the sills open. Was surprised to see there was some actual paint, not much on the inside inner sill. Glad I removed them really the inside of the outer sill was really bad and would of caused me some great pain later down the track.   

So will now organise the sandblaster and book a time. Still slowly blasting front end parts in my small cabinet.

[FCRB26]

Definetly doing the right thing those inners look like they might be ok.

[camxsmith]

Fingers are crossed Pete,  hoping that they only need a little work...

[camxsmith]

I was meant to paste this pic at the start of this thread but I could not find it.  Its a picture of my Pa's FC with his family (my dad the little fella). Wish he kept the car. 

Today went to the paint shop brought the KBS chassis paint kit and a liter of the top coat to start on the diff and front end parts. The guy said that the top coat will go harder then powder coat. So can not wait to see how it comes up.

[camxsmith]

Started pulling down the HR front end today, aim to get diff and all front end parts cleaned up for the KBS paint. I finished blasting the front brake parts, need to go for a drive pick up the rear parts and do them.

Going to go with a new 7 inch booster, XB ford mater cylinder as it has the hose go towards the guards (looks neat). Will find a proportional valve, for Ht drums back and ht disc front. 

[JOX515]

Looking good, all that small stuff takes a lot of time but well worth the effort.  What brand booster did you go with as I am going to a 7" dual diaphragm booster as well.  Cheers, Graeme

[camxsmith]

Still plodding away with blasting and collecting bits and pieces.

Got my HK steering arms, got a cup (thingy) to replace my rusted one on my K frame, which holds on the front end. If anyone wants one im sure I can send it to you, just yell out.  I also found a not to bad floor piece to fix the rusted one in my car which is under the rear seat, Im sure this section does not get made by rares.

Also scored a red 186 with a yellaterra stage 3 head for $50 bucks.. Guy said the bottom end was done up not long before it had been removed from the car. 

[camxsmith]

A few weeks back I finally followed up with Ray Taylor's parts, And today they arrived .

Front floor panels , Guards lower and light surrounds, Cross member which are under the front floor and K frame parts. Will be interesting to see how they align with the car..  First look they seem to be thicker then a rare replacement part.  But its all about the fit.

In a spin at the moment  ..  Should I start by cutting out all rusty parts and replace with the new parts I currently have before the blaster, As I want to use KBS product which relies on bare metal so when I send the car to the blaster the new parts get the shit coat of pain blasted off to bare metal and then I can apply the KBS paint system. I know I will have other parts to fix when it comes back. But at least the new bits will be blasted ready for the paint, If I do them after blasting I will have to remove the paint some how my self.

What do you think ?  chicken or the egg 

[Longman]

Looking good mate. Eager to hear about the fit of Taylors parts!

[Errol62]

I'm in the same boat with my EK van. Decided to do the structural stuff prior to blasting. Partly because if I didn't there may not have been anything to trailer home. Doing firewall, plenum, dash cut and shut, inner and outer sills, front cross member and trans tunnel with hydramatic conversion and front floors from Ray Taylor. Don't hold your breath though. Still patching patches for the donor firewall. Patch on patch on patch! Getting some experience with the mig before I get to the bits people see.


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[mcl1959]

I think the best way is to remove the outer sills fairly roughly (just by cutting the top and bottom with a cut-off wheel and leaving the spot welds in place)
This gets the blasting inside the sills where it is really needed.
I would not weld any new parts in before blasting. If it looks really fragile at the A or C pillar then weld in a tie member across the door jam to keep it square.
Front subframe should be off for blasting.
The primer on the new panels will come off very easily with just a simple coat of stripper or a stripping wheel

Ken

[camxsmith]

Thanks for the advise guys will look at getting the car sent to the blasters soon then... 

[mph]

Nice build mate, i like it.