My FC Rebuild

[GM]

Here ya go

[fcwrangler]

Front doors are not the problem, there is enough clearance as your picture shows, it's the rear doors that are the hassle, the gap between the door and the pillar and the opening radius are the concern. I've got an old door that I will cut up and fit it up with the top hinge and see what happens from there. Another week to recover from the hernia and I can do some light stuff with help from my son. As I have said before, I'm not in a real hurry to get things done, so this is the best time to get it all sorted out.
Jim

[NES304]

Looks like the bend is ok and won't fowl. Have no idea how the hell I can tighten the nut once inside the pillar...

[FCRB26]

cut a plate 50x50 drill a hole in the centre weld a nut onto it chop a square where u want it in the pillar and weld away..

[NES304]

cut a plate 50x50 drill a hole in the centre weld a nut onto it chop a square where u want it in the pillar and weld away..

Plus the ones for the seat belts.... Was hoping not to make a mess!

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

I'm still with Haydn and have a 30-30mm deep  and say the width of door frame wide recess with captive nut behind that  in the door to allow some sideways movement of cable.

Regards

Wayne b

[fcwrangler]

The plan was as Pete said, make a plate weld a nut on then weld to the pillar and screw in. The other worry is when the door shuts, will the loom intrude on the window runner. Looking at the inner frame, I might be able to weld in a small deflector plate so the tube will miss the window. (The advantage of having the outer skins off)
Jim

[NES304]

How will it exit neatly at the bottom then???

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

Maybe the tail behind the kicker

[NES304]

I meant from the B pillar???

[fcwrangler]

Look back through the rebuild, when I replaced the sills I ran conduit from the "A" pillar along the sill to the bottom of the "B" pillar and ran a draw wire through. A bit of forward planing goes a long way.
Jim

[fcwrangler]

PROBLEM SOLVED. Many thanks to Wayne(old mt isa boy) for sending down his old loom, a bit on the large side 24"x 3/4", but for testing it has worked out fine. The ones I will be using are 12"x 1/2" so they will be a bit different to the one in the photos. It took around 1/2 an hour to set up as follows.
door cut out fitted to pillar and drilled and reemed out



bolted loom to door but just pushed the end into the pillar




shut the door to check clearance



opened and closed a few times to make sure it was moving ok and presto!! it works. Just waiting for my son to cut the front door down and I will do the same and see how it goes.
Will keep you posted, Jim

[NES304]

Looks great. Just had a little look on mine and that looks like it may be near the window channel. Will have to do mine lower I think.
At least we know it won't pinch now!

[john253a]

Have you tryed a rivnut or nutsert
And screw the gland into that

[fcwrangler]

Marc, this was just a mock up to see if it would work. The real thing will be just above the stay strap but the position of the hole is as far across as can be done, as the nut is hard up against the inner frame. I am looking at fitting a hose to the end of the anchor flange to keep it away from the window. The front will be in the depression above the lower hinge.
John, the anchor is about 16mm, I don't think they have them that large so I'll be making plates with nuts welded to them and then fit them into the pillars and then screw the anchors home.
As I said earlier, I will mock up the front door as well and make sure it works before I do the good doors

[fcwrangler]

back to the drawing board!!!! did the test fitup on the front door, I have the loom fitted and opened the door to find the loom kinks up in the fully open position as the photos will show. Wayne and Haydn are correct, it would be a problem later on as each time the doors open, it will wear down the braid and cause it to fail.





I would like to keep the power to the doors, so I think for ease of fitting, I will follow JB's advise and run the wires along the door hinge. I have a couple of different idea's on how I will do this, so once again I will keep you posted on the outcome.
Jim

[DJ]

Jim,
Could the flanges could be recessed on a slight angle to eliminate the S bend & stop the link.
Dave.

[fcwrangler]

Dave, one of the idea's, also as Haydn said recess them a bit (lot of work). At this stage time isn't an issue so I can play around and see what will be the neatest and easiest  way to go.
Jim

[hsv-001]

Maybe an old set of those steel cup like things you know the front end  mount retaining plates that sit inside your front end  rubbers .Trimmed back and then welded into the pillars and doors to give room for the hose to move and the ones in the doors could also give direction so the hose won't  hit on window tracks . Butt welded into a hole pre-drilled with the correct hole saw and  finished with body filler should look OK . Cheers Haydn

[NES304]

I did this to my front door and has worked every time. Although I would have liked to use the braided one.
Had to butcher a bit to go up. Will clean it up later so that sharp metal won't cut through