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Author Topic: FCRB30 Wagon  (Read 549078 times)
DN2168
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dean.nommensen
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« Reply #520 on: July 06, 2010, 03:12:53 PM »

Lookin' shmick there Pedro, a real credit to you!!

Dean.
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peter.mallaby
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« Reply #521 on: July 06, 2010, 03:32:01 PM »

I run 215-50-16,s and mine rub a little.

Do you have plans for the diff?
I run VN and just had the long axle resplined for the short side and had a billet one made for the other side 340 from memory for a billet axle as they have a failry lengthy step in the axle so they can only re spline the long side i took out 80mm on both sides 160mm all up.
Just for your info i have a chrysler centura diff here they are exact offset you need.
i welded up and re drilled the axles out on the lathe but width is perfect i originally ran one with 13x7 earlly holden rims it was 2.92(auto) ratio and ran leaf springs  also my other one fits great its 3.23 (man) with 4 link and walkinshaw rims.
Just had a brain wave get yourself a skyline or pintara diff cheap as shit and just re drill studs from memory they fit great
 just the ratios are really tall 3.8 up to 4.11 but commodore crown and pinion fit into them.
Also they have a silly handbrake assembly like vlovos where the handbrake is built into the disc calliper shithouse handbrake maybe you could run commodore backing plates and discs.

I would personally run centura with VL drums.
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pedro
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« Reply #522 on: July 06, 2010, 05:47:02 PM »

Thanks Dean, I'm finally starting to feel like i'm getting somewhere, good to hear you've scoring all those bit's lately.

Plenty of good info there Pete, I was under the impression all I had to do was get a short axle from the wreckers, cut down the long side of the diff to suit and then weld the FC brackets on it though Huh.
        Pedro 
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« Reply #523 on: July 06, 2010, 07:40:26 PM »

I Thought that too but the only way to get it right that way is to use a VL axle but they are all 25 spline except VL Turbo which are dear as poison and like rocking horse poo.

But i just read a article of someone selling a shortened borg warner on e bay they use a salisbury axle and had it re splined.

Or as you are probably a cruiser not a racer get a engineering shop to cut it machine a dowel in it and weld it cheap and works unless you start pushing it.

heres my saddles i make better than lowering blocks i make a fair few .



These dont have stiffening gusset welded in yet to stop sideways movement also i use HK,T,G lower spring plate with wagon ute leaves or flat FC plate with sedan springs.
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« Reply #524 on: July 06, 2010, 07:45:43 PM »

I Thought that too but the only way to get it right that way is to use a VL axle but they are all 25 spline except VL Turbo which are dear as poison and like rocking horse poo.

But i just read a article of someone selling a shortened borg warner on e bay they use a salisbury axle and had it re splined.

Or as you are probably a cruiser not a racer get a engineering shop to cut it machine a dowel in it and weld it cheap and works unless you start pushing it.

heres my saddles i make better than lowering blocks i make a fair few .



These dont have stiffening gusset welded in yet to stop sideways movement also i use HK,T,G lower spring plate with wagon ute leaves or flat FC plate with sedan springs.

 Hi mate, do make the saddle brackets to order at all ?
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« Reply #525 on: July 06, 2010, 07:49:20 PM »

Pedro the rim looks like a Ute rim have a look at the outside it should have Ute written on it Wink Holden in there intimate wisdom thought the Ute needed different rims speedway guys use them because the offset is right

                                      Cheers Damo58
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pedro
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« Reply #526 on: July 06, 2010, 07:55:31 PM »

Quote
I Thought that too but the only way to get it right that way is to use a VL axle but they are all 25 spline except VL Turbo which are dear as poison and like rocking horse poo.

Sorry Pete but you've lost me there Huh, wouldn't I be able to just buy a short VL axle or are they a different spline on each side, I'd be interested in a set of saddles too mate, saves cutting up a diff, are they legal.
       Pedro
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« Reply #527 on: July 06, 2010, 07:58:34 PM »

Thanks Damo, I suppose if the speedway guys use them they'll be hard to come by.
            Pedro
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« Reply #528 on: July 06, 2010, 08:32:34 PM »

Pedro, the commonbore ute rims definitely have 'ute' stamped on them as Damo said; they are still relatively easy to get around here. I think the 'ute' wheel centres are made of slightly thicker steel than the sedan/wagon centres, and they have about 6 mm more offset out than car rims, but all of them (stock) are 6 x 15.
So if you are looking for guard clearance, the car rims would be better provided they clear your calipers etc.
I used stock ute rims on the front of my HK ute; painted up and with chrome nuts and bullet centres they dont look too bad...
(if you search back in your pm's you'll find a pic)

cheers, jack

 
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« Reply #529 on: July 07, 2010, 05:08:15 AM »

Vl NON Turbo are 25 spline on both sides. you may even get a vl diff in with ute rims.

Saddles weather they are legal or not well probably not but if you do not go to overboard they look more legal than lowering blocks and if your car has to be engineered he will soon pass them or not.

I have 3 mates running these and we have never been questioned.
Done the wifes HT as well.

Made to order you tell me the height from the bottom of the diff to the top of the leaf spring.


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pedro
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« Reply #530 on: July 07, 2010, 07:32:02 AM »

Thanks Jack, Just went and checked those rims, none of them have "ute" on them, the one that's offset further in is stamped LW8JISOX 15   22 1 95  43P on the rim and GM HS 72 on the centre, the others are marked 7.00J x 15  22 4 30  43P  and in the centre GM HS 46, they both have the same size tyres on them so I presume they are the same width.
               Pedro
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« Reply #531 on: July 07, 2010, 08:05:16 AM »

Couldn't find that pic Jack, unfortunately I have 174 pages of pm's which makes it a bit hard, I went back to page 100 before I gave up though Roll Eyes, could you pm it to me again please or just stick it up on here, thanks.
       Pedro
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« Reply #532 on: July 07, 2010, 08:16:41 AM »

174 pages......someone loves ya Tongue.

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pedro
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« Reply #533 on: July 07, 2010, 01:40:58 PM »

Quote
174 pages......someone loves ya

And that was just last weeks Roll Eyes Grin Grin, when we first came onto the site we got into trouble for yakking too much so we went underground and do most of our chatting by pm. Wink

Pete can you make one for wagon springs that uses the standard bottom plate and rubbers as I've already ordered them, I am getting my rear springs reset anyway so I could just get them 1' lower and get the brackets off you 1" lower that way I'd get my 2" without losing too much travel/having the springs too straightened out, and it wouldn't be so noticeable on the diff brackets.
                  Pedro
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« Reply #534 on: July 07, 2010, 04:22:18 PM »

No worries water jet died today they are flying up from melbourne tommorow so when im back in business i will cut them.

So i was meant to cut seat spacers and a lot of jobs today but it didnt happen.
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« Reply #535 on: July 07, 2010, 06:32:29 PM »

Pedro, if all the rims you are using are 7 x 15 and you are having clearance probs with the front tyres hitting the guards, maybe stock 'ute' rims (6 x 15) would easily solve the problem; you could still run the 7 x 15s on the back if clearance OK...
195 or 205, even 215 tyres will suit the 6 inch rims (on the front, 205 would probably be the best; 215s would be fine on 6 inch rims on the back though)
On 7 inch rims, 215 or 225 or even 235 (if on the back) would be OK...
What size tyres are currently on your rims??
Some shitty pics of commonbore rims on my ute attached (fronts are 6 x 15 "ute" rims, rears are 8 x 15 that I got made up)





I think I've got some better close up pics somewhere; I'll have a look and pm them to you if I can find them...
I just sprayed these wheels satin black and hand-painted the actual rims with 'aluminium' silver frost paint, fitted chrome nuts and some old left-over chrome centre caps (stuck on with 'liquid nails'  Roll Eyes; definitely your 'el cheapo' effort... but they looked alright on the old daily driver bait-wagon; don't know if the same treatment would be appropriate on your delicious FC wagon...

cheers, jack 
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« Reply #536 on: July 07, 2010, 07:18:44 PM »

hi pedro great work I have found a company called Driveline Services that do axles that suit vn diffs at different lenghts arround $300 I am using a short axle in long side buying one for the short side but for the time being cutting and weld the short side to make sure my track and wheels fit before I spend any money
reguards Geoff
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pedro
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« Reply #537 on: July 07, 2010, 07:33:37 PM »

Thanks for the pics Jack, I hadn't thought of painting the centres black but I quite like the look, they would look good with my red and black theme, did the centre caps fall off in the second pic Wink, while I was getting the ball joints pressed in at the local tyre shop I noticed they had heaps of second hand rims stacked all over the place so i'll have to go and see if they have any of the ones I need.

Let me know how much Pete and i'll send you the dough.
    Pedro
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« Reply #538 on: July 07, 2010, 07:38:01 PM »

G'day Geoff, yeah I'm going to get my diff into place and have a look before spending any money too, just waiting on my bump stop rubbers so I can get the front wheels on the ground first.
           Pedro
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« Reply #539 on: July 07, 2010, 07:46:37 PM »

No worries water jet died today they are flying up from melbourne tommorow so when im back in business i will cut them.

So i was meant to cut seat spacers and a lot of jobs today but it didnt happen.

 Hi Pete, how much for a pair of saddle's ? might save me bodging up a pair, i dont need any extra lowering so only require about 1/2" between axle tube and top side of saddle - FC sedan with original but reset springs and VB/VH salisbury diff .

regards,
Nick.
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