KFH
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« Reply #580 on: July 16, 2010, 08:29:04 PM » |
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You could make a hole in the bonnet and put one of those old style motmeters on top of the radiator. An instant temperature gauge.
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I was born with nothing and still have most of it left
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pedro
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« Reply #582 on: July 17, 2010, 03:01:58 PM » |
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Hey Pedro, how have you planned to put the old radiator support panel back on and the cover plate? Or do you have to make a new version of the old? Just wondering in some of the honeycomb will be showing or not. I cut up the other support that I stuffed up on my last attempt turned it around and welded it in for strenth and a mounting point for the thermo fans, I'm got to cut it back a little more to remove the old screw holes yet, too close to beer o'clock now though , easier to take a pic than explain, like this. Measured how long the diff would be once cut down and came up with 1472, put the wheels where I wanted them to be and measured in between, couldn't believe my eyes 1472, hopefully this will be a straightforward job for once(not counting on it though). Pedro
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EffCee
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« Reply #583 on: July 17, 2010, 03:31:21 PM » |
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Pedro,
Do you have sufficient clearance between your bonnet and radiator cap? If you dont you could have the cap removed, relace the neck with a hose fitting, run a header tank to the hose fitting and have the radiator cap on the header tank. This will also increase the volume of coolant that you will have
Keith
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Canberra, ACT F4+
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pedro
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« Reply #584 on: July 17, 2010, 04:00:17 PM » |
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No worries Keith, after the last effort I made sure everything fitted before I started and there is plenty of clearance, part of the reason i'm happy to have the radiator that high is because when I researched these engines they said there was a problem with the radiators in the commodores being so low that the engines developed air pockets which caused the heads to crack. Pedro
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DN2168
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« Reply #585 on: July 18, 2010, 12:51:20 AM » |
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Nice Grille Dean.
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FCRB26
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« Reply #586 on: July 20, 2010, 06:51:33 AM » |
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Heres the diff saddles because they are only short they will not need gussets also i make them now so they have to be welded all around as their is less chance of axle tube distortion. So if you have not cut your axle tubes you will have to cut them so the go over the axle tube then just re weld them back together on there. Pete
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EffCee
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« Reply #587 on: July 20, 2010, 09:37:45 AM » |
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Excellent looking saddles, Pete.
I assume that they were cut on the water cutting machine?
Keith
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pedro
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« Reply #588 on: July 20, 2010, 11:41:48 AM » |
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Thanks Mate, great craftmanship as usual , I reckon you'll get a few orders for them as they would have to be a lot safer than lowering blocks, just finished the radiator mounts and it even fits , the rear springs are in with new spring eye bolts, shackles and rubbers so i'll be starting on the diff tomorrow. Pedro
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« Reply #589 on: July 20, 2010, 12:01:29 PM » |
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Yep good old water jet i love it makes life very easy.
Pete
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pedro
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« Reply #590 on: July 21, 2010, 07:09:49 AM » |
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Radiator mounts made, cleaned up and painted Starting on the diff today. Pedro
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pedro
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« Reply #591 on: July 21, 2010, 03:18:09 PM » |
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Dodgee bros diff shortening jig Diff shortened, easier job than I expected, axle even fits Pedro
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« Reply #592 on: July 21, 2010, 04:17:12 PM » |
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So what axles did you end up using?
Saddles have left this morning in a bag so you should see them friday morning.
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EffCee
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« Reply #593 on: July 21, 2010, 05:37:50 PM » |
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Diff shortened, easier job than I expected, axle even fits Pedro You almost seem surprised that it fits, Its really not that hard, just ensure measurements are spot on, and flanges are exactly square.... Keith
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Canberra, ACT F4+
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slack one
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« Reply #594 on: July 21, 2010, 05:47:08 PM » |
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hi pete can you make me a set of saddle plates 60mm from diff to spring. and bottom plate 57mm wide flat piece to sit on spring. set up is for a vl commo diff for my fj holden diff does not have to be shorten . i dont need the ones that fit over the tube. i will be using the u bolts from the 2 inch lowering blocks. i was going to use 2 inch lowering blocks but your way is better. also can you please pm me with a price. or do you have a number i can ring.cheers gary.
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pedro
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« Reply #595 on: July 21, 2010, 07:24:46 PM » |
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So what axles did you end up using? I bought a short axle from the wreckers and cut down the long side to the same size as the short side, I won't know for sure until tomorrow when I get some new wheel bearings but according to my calculations I should end up with a total (axle face to axle face) width of 1.472 which should put the tyres just inside the guards with the 7" rims, thanks for making the saddles and sending them off so promtly , in theory I should be pretty well finished the mechanicals and starting on panels by Monday. You almost seem surprised that it fits, With the way this build has gone so far Keith, I'm surprised that you're surprised that I'm surprised that something went right for a change(so far) Pedro
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« Reply #596 on: July 22, 2010, 08:12:37 AM » |
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Doesnt that mean that your pinion is going to be offset so the diff wont be in the centre???
I suppose unis go on an angle up so they should go sideways.
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pedro
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« Reply #597 on: July 22, 2010, 09:26:55 AM » |
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Doesnt that mean that your pinion is going to be offset so the diff wont be in the centre??? It was offset before Pete with one side being longer than the other, now it's in the middle and I welded the floor in centrally so it "should" all line up, I just got back from town with the wheel bearings so once i've cleaned up the backing plates i'll fit them and give it all a trial assembly. Pedro
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pedro
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If you haven't grown up by 50, you don't have to.
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« Reply #598 on: July 22, 2010, 01:00:07 PM » |
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I love animals - they taste great
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« Reply #599 on: July 22, 2010, 01:50:57 PM » |
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it will be about 30mm offset cos of the pinion being offset in the pumpkin thats why you have 2 different axle lengths normally.
Unis run on an angle up down so im sure a little bit sideways aint gunna hurt.
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