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Author Topic: Hayshed FC  (Read 133496 times)
Hewart
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« Reply #100 on: March 09, 2010, 01:48:28 PM »

She looking good Scott!!
I'm really looking forward to see this old girl in Orange!!
I hope you're having some better luck with the clutch today Wink

Cheers, Les...
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GOA350
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« Reply #101 on: March 10, 2010, 11:31:48 AM »

Thanks very much for your suggestions of the reason for my problem with the clutch. I went back to the book yesterday afternoon and started at the top at the pedal assembly. I set it up as per the book and then went underneath and found that something must be wrong with the fork itself because there seemed to be far too much distance between the slave cylinder and the hole that the pin sits into. When i looked at another engine and gearbox i have at home, the shaft that goes into the fork is not adjusted to the same point as the one on the FC. So i had to bite the bullet and pull the gearbox out and pull the fork out and check it. Once out it was obvious that this is my problem.
 
As you can see, the two fingers that go onto the thrust bearing and push the thrust bearing against the clutch, are bent and have spread.
 So it was as simple as getting another fork off another gearbox and fit it. I had it all back together in a couple of hours and took it for it's first drive in 30 years at about 9pm. I had the 2 kids and myself driving down the drive with the lights on hi beam and no windscreens, with bugs hitting us in the face and me wondering how this floor shifter works. The kids got a real kick out of it. I drove it down to the end of the road and back, dropped the kids off at the house, told them to go to bed (which they didn't) and went back to the shed and set the tappet clearences while the car was hot. Once i did the tappets it ran beautifully with no rattles in the top end.
 I plan to take it for a bit more of a drive tonight, bed the new rings in a bit and then it will have a few other bits and pieces done before it goes and has the headlining and proper trim fitted and the windscreens.
 Cheers Scotty
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GOA350
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« Reply #102 on: March 10, 2010, 01:11:21 PM »

I thought i would see if this video works or not, this was taken just before i took the gearbox out. It stopped early because the bateries ran out. If it works i will get another tonight and post it tomorow.
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weddo
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« Reply #103 on: March 10, 2010, 01:35:53 PM »

Scotty..that is lovely sound hearing the old girl spring back to life, well done


regards
weddo
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steamman
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« Reply #104 on: March 10, 2010, 03:00:01 PM »

Wow another grey comes to life fantastic stuff scotty Grin Grin Grin Grin Grin
Cheers
Deano
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REDMR2RED
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« Reply #105 on: March 10, 2010, 03:16:53 PM »

Well done Scott.  The Vid worked fine, and the engine sounds and looks great.
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NascoHunter
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« Reply #106 on: March 10, 2010, 03:55:00 PM »

Well done Scotty,
  Played your phone message at last nights meeting when your FC came alive.
See you soon

Tony. Wink
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zulu
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« Reply #107 on: March 10, 2010, 04:40:57 PM »

Good to hear Scott, if mine starts that easily I'll eat my hat, I usually have to have about 6 goes just to get the dizzy to sit in the right slot / spot!

Glad to see you have sorted out the clutch issue

Cheers, Gary
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CraigA
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« Reply #108 on: March 10, 2010, 06:59:36 PM »

Loved the video Scott.

Can't wait to see one with it running and driving.
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Gary C
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« Reply #109 on: March 10, 2010, 07:27:47 PM »

Sounds great Scott and you cant wait to drive it eh! What clearance did you set you tappets at?, the guy who built my engine said 20thou and it does rattle a bit.Thanks ,
Gary C
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HAD 708
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« Reply #110 on: March 10, 2010, 08:19:40 PM »

Scotty,
How good is that!!!!!!! Well done mate it has been a long and committed road and your on the last bend well done mate.
See you at Cootamundra
Brett
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Brett Gillard
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« Reply #111 on: March 10, 2010, 10:03:52 PM »

Way to go Scott looks and sounds great
                     see you soon Simon Addison
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GOA350
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« Reply #112 on: March 11, 2010, 12:56:17 PM »

How about this Video.
 I am still sorting out the carbies, but i should have them done tonight.
Spoke to the trimmer today and the material for the headlining has come in and he is going to get started on it on Monday. I am dropping the car off on Wednesday and organising for the winscreen guy to fit them on Thursday or Friday, then i should be able to drive it home on Friday.
 I am hoping all this works out so i can have some time to sort out any issues, such as, oil leaks, water leaks, etc, before the trip to Orange. Cheers Scotty
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GOA350
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« Reply #113 on: March 11, 2010, 01:11:27 PM »

Sorry Gary i forgot to mention, the book says to set the inlet valves at .008" and the exhaust at .012", so that is what i did. I will be keeping an eye on them and adjust to suit, but i shouldn't have to, once they are set that should be it.


Sorry to everyone for putting so many posts up, but i know i would be interested if someone else was doing what i am doing, and once this car is done i have been told NO MORE (for a while anyway, thats what i told her). So after this i won't be bothering you all as much with a build that i am doing.
 
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Ed
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« Reply #114 on: March 11, 2010, 01:26:27 PM »


Looks like a nice place to work on your cars!

dont apologise for too many posts,, very interesting stuff.

see you in Orange

Cheers

Ed

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in the shed
Gary C
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« Reply #115 on: March 11, 2010, 02:27:44 PM »

Love that note Scotty,
Gary C
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Trevor_B
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« Reply #116 on: March 11, 2010, 03:51:06 PM »

Hi Scott,
Suggest you give Wade Camshafts a call and they can tell you the correct clearance - Ph No 03 - 9568 0333. The cam in our ute has to be set at 13 thou for both inlet & exhaust (can't remember the exact grind). They could also tell you the lift/duration etc.

Trevor
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FC Sedan, Ute & Wagon .... only a Panel Van required to make the set
GOA350
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« Reply #117 on: March 11, 2010, 04:49:41 PM »

Thanks Trev,
I have a copy of my cam details that Wade sent me and it says i need to set the valve clearence at .016" for both inlet and exhaust, so i am going home tonight to reset them.
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CraigA
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« Reply #118 on: March 11, 2010, 08:53:07 PM »

The cam card is the right info to use but I found this article very interesting.

Using Valve Lash to Help Tune Your Engine
 
Most people do not realize that you can make subtle performance improvements by opening or closing the recommended lash settings.
 
The intake and exhaust valves cannot move until all the running clearance (valve lash) has been taken up. Therefore, the amount of valve lash you use affects the engine's performance. For example, if you decrease the amount of (hot) valve lash, the valve will open slightly sooner, provide slightly more lift (valve opening), and close later. This makes the camshaft look bigger to the engine, due to this slight increase of duration and lift. If you increase the amount of (hot) lash the opposite occurs. The valve will open later, provide slightly lift less, and close sooner. Now your engine sees a smaller cam with slightly less actual duration and lift.
 
You can use this tuning method to experiment with what the engine responds to, then keep the setting that works the best. Just remember, the more lash you run, the noisier the valve train will be. If the clearance is excessive it can be harsh or damaging to other valve train components. Therefore, for prolonged running of the engine it is not recommend to increase the amount of lash by more than +0.004" from the recommended setting. Nor is reducing the lash by more than -0.008" recommended.
 
The common gains that people see will be that by reducing the lash will increase top end (upper RPM power) horsepower, and increasing the lash can improve low end torque and acceleration.

 
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EffCee
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« Reply #119 on: March 12, 2010, 12:18:51 AM »

It should be noted that by altering the valve lash, effectively retards or advances the camshaft by a degree or two. If you are seeking more power at either the upper revs or lower revs as described above, it is far better to fit a multi index crankshaft gear and dial the cam in properly in order to obtain the results that are sought.

As mentioned above, excessive clearance causes severe damage to the valve train very quickly, insufficient valve clearance can cause burnt valves and seats

Keith
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