Hello all, my FC sold some time ago.  Went to a good home.  My apology, I forgot to de-list.  Will always remember fondly that driving style of a largely original FC and the joy of the general public whenever driving it.  12 good years of ownership.  Learnt a lot working on it.  Have now taken on another classic, but a Jaguar.  As ALDI would say - Good, Different. 

1959 FC Holden is in very good running order. It is 95% original excepting a previous life as a 70’s street car that sees it wear frenched EH tail-lights and diamond pleated upholstery. A recent motor rebuild has also taken this grey to 138ci. It sports extractors with a new stainless tail pipe. The drivetrain, steering, suspension, and brakes are all original refurbished or replaced as are many other mechanical parts. Some easier to live with components include a 3-core radiator between original top and bottom tanks, an alternator and electronic ignition. The car body has survived solid by spending decades in the dry of the outback. The chrome is excellent and stainless in good order. Whitewall tyres ride on chrome mag wheels 13” to front and 14” to rear (a spare for each). The past 11 years of maintenance and repairs have been logged. Some spares. There is so much on this car that could make for a complete original build, or solid start to a modified build. Or drive it as I have for 11 years simply enjoying its 70’s street rod style.

$26,500
Car is in Hamilton, Victoria
0407 720 809
rodger.garland@bigpond.com

PHOTOS AVAILABLE (unclear how to include here)

SUMMARY OF REPAIRS LISTED BELOW:

Engine
Motor and Head rebuilt 2021
Each had been rebuilt in 2015 but block cracked
Head had some more attention in 2018 (new springs and re-shimmed)

(Receipts for motor - Norm McCullagh Engine - Warrnambool)
(Receipts for head – Bruce Simons – Dunkeld)
132 bored to 138 / 179 inlet and outlet valves 
Head shaved to thumbprint now (40 Thou)
   Now approximates 144 ci
   
Motor Items Refurbished/Rebuilt: (Most 2015)
      Starter Motor
      Generator
      Distributor
      Carburettor (2013)
      Fuel Pump
      Radiator (new 3 core/original top and bottom tanks)

New Motor Parts:
      Engine mount rubbers
      Radiator Hoses
      Water Pump
      Thermostat
      Fan Belt
      Timing Gears (alloy)
      Harmonic Balancer
      Spark Plugs and leads
      Ignition Coil
Distributor Cap
      Battery Leads
Alternator (2018)

Brakes (2013)
   Re-bonded brake pads (double thickness)
   Brake drums skimmed
   Re Sleeved (stainless steel) wheel cylinders   
   New brake hoses
   Brake master cylinder rebuilt

Clutch (2014)
   New H/D Clutch - 215mm (original 200mm) 
   (minor grind in gearbox for clearance)
   Clutch Master Cylinder rebuilt
   Clutch Slave Cylinder rebuilt

Drivetrain and Wheels (Most 2014-16)
   Gearbox rebuild (seals and bearings)
   Gearbox linkages welded and redrilled
New universal joints
   New front wheel bearings
   New rear axle bearings 
Offset rear mags (7 x 14”) to bring further under guards
White-wall radial tyres (185x80x13 front/215x70x14 rear)

Suspension
   New Front Shocks (2013)
New Rear Shocks (2015)
   Rear Leaf Spring rubber kit (2014)
   Rear Leaf Spring re tension and reset height (2015)

Steering
   Refurbished Steering Wheel
   (seems to be) FC Steering Wheel on EJ Steering column (both already in car)
   Ball joints and tie rods replaced (2014)

Electrical (Most 2018)
   Wiring tidy up - engine bay, head/tail/dash lights (2018)
   Horn button dash mounted (could not mate FC centre horn to EJ column)
Horn relay installed
   New fuel sender unit
Alternator – 75w
Electronic Ignition (Petronix)
Trailer Plug   

Body (Most 2014)
   New floor pans x 4
   New outer sills (2016)
Sunvisor
Towbar
   Front windscreen seal
   Outer door seals x 4
   Bonnet and Boot Rubbers
New locks for ignition, front doors, and boot (2020)

Interior and accessories
   6 Seat belts installed (2019)
   2 x door mounted 3” stem side mirrors
   Repair rear vision mirror
   New inner door handles x 2
   Rear venetian blind (repro)
   9 x 6” Speakers in parcel shelf
   Homemade scuff panels in foot-wells
   Throw over Sheepskin Covers (front)

Exhaust
   New Extractors / Muffler/ chrome end (2014)
New stainless tail pipe (2021)

Thanks men, good (sort of) to know the crack is somewhat common in that area.  E.g. someone may not have shoved in a too large welsh plug or something.  Thanks for the feedback on EJ sump and dipstick.

Rodger

Thank you Rob and Ken.  Exactly the information I need to read. 
Amongst the J and B motors today was an L block (fc numbers).  Which is good as I have an FC (albeit with frenched in EH tail lights - 70's mod.) 

I overlooked the L motor today as the head and sump were gone and the block was exposed along with the crank, and pistons still in bore etc.  I thought the L block might be too far gone.  It has been long in a dry shed mind you.  I am sure the fellow wouldn't mind me picking up the L if there is the likelihood it might be ok given to good restorative hands. 

My preference would be to match the L motor to the car for posterity.

Question Rob.  The EJ dipstick length was for bringing the opening closer to the customer (via tube length) and not because anything had changed in the sump or the block?  So not about a wrong reading of oil depth?  Could use the short dipstick and FC distributor but the long tube would tangle up being the issue? 

I note the other points on the oil feed at front and improved cooling gasket.

Thank you
Rodger

 

 

Hello, I have a fully rebuilt FE numbered motor (in an FC).  Post rebuild have discovered a crack in the block between 1 and 2 (front) exhaust outlet.  Not yet determined how repairable.  The FE block is bored to 138 with new STD pistons.  Otherwise the motor is stock but refurbished.  If on inspection I require a new block I have access to an EJ and an FB numbered motor.  My question is, 'Are those EJ and FB motor innards (block) able to receive the refurbished parts from my FE motor fully?'  E.g. transferable crank, heads mate etc.

Thank you, Rodger

Hello, I have a fully rebuilt FE numbered motor (in an FC).  Post rebuild have discovered a crack in the block between 1 and 2 (front) exhaust outlet.  Not yet determined how repairable.  The FE block is bored to 138 with new STD pistons.  Otherwise the motor is stock but refurbished.  If on inspection I require a new block I have access to an EJ and an FB numbered motor.  My question is, 'Are those EJ and FB motor innards (block) able to receive the refurbished parts from my FE motor fully?'  E.g. transferable crank, heads mate etc.

Thank you, Rodger

Hello, seeking an interior rear vision mirror.  I do have the stem and end ball but is that able to be used?  It seems to have a non-original mirror that flops around on the ball.  So the whole unit I expect.  Unless someone has a roadworthy idea for steadying a loose mirror?

Thank you
Rodger

Part sourced, thank you club.  Rodger

Part has been sourced, thank you.

Hi Ken, yes I would be keen to purchase that dipstick.  I see you have replied to the request for the shorter dipstick, I posted another (listed immediately above or below the other) for an FE/FC Holden one.  Harv replied to that with the measurements of the longer (EJ) and shorter versions.  Trusting that yours is the shorter that goes straight into the block my phone number is 0407 720 809 (also on other post mentioned). 

Thank you, keen to hear back and only taken a while to respond as I am on holidays.  Phone may go to message bank as again I am travelling.  If you were prepared to post your phone number I can check when home from Friday on. Rodger

Grey motor (shorter) dipstick required.  Phone number left out of previous message.  0407 720 809.  Thank you.  Rodger

Require oil dipstick for FE/FC. Thank you.

Hello, my fc has a thermostat housing that rises straight upwards.  Someone drew my attention to the fact that most for sale are angled to some degree.  As I cannot find other than an angular upper housing for sale can someone inform me if that is fine to use albeit with a different upper hose.  Or can anyone suggest a provider of the upright version.  thank you.

Rodger

Hello, I have a wonderful set of old school drag mags on my FC.  The front is 6 x 13 and the rears 7 x 14 (old holden stud pattern).  The tyres are 185/80/13 and 215/70/14 Maxxi Whitewalls.  Just had it registered in WA and now suddenly in Vic and it seems a thousand dollars wasted on new tyres plus my mags need to go west!

It seems that all rims need to be the same diameter, but what about the width? Supposedly. by my homework. one inch extra is ok but that makes only 5.5" and I see a lot of wider wheels about on the streets.  The track is wider than spec expectation too, not by much on the front but on the back by some. I'd be prepared to to have the rims properly doctored for track but the two different diameters seems to make keeping the set together unlikely.  Any ideas?

I am looking at club rego so I realise that causes me to be even more responsible about standards.

Thank you 

Thank you, especially the  link to the techno pages on the unit.  Must push through the 'how to' and post a picture or two.
Rodger

Hello, I have a remote oil filter on my FC.  I am wondering how much extra oil, if any, I need to run.  Does the dipstick still read true.  I am playing cautious and have an extra 300ml in the system.  Thank you.  PS About to start driving it - registered it today after three years chipping away. 

Thank you Rob.  Have the brushes now (with tags).  Had been finding the bushes hard to access.  I'll return to look at them again as I was told they needed replacing.  Thank you for the other tips.  Rodger

hello, I have a Bosch 08/12 R37 starter.  Can anyone tell me a place of certain purchase of brushes and bushes, or, the specifications of the same that I might order similar, or, if another model is known to have suitable replacement components.  Thank you.

Hi, my first log.  Thankyou for the direction to the external filter document.  I was looking to see if extra oil was required but no it isn't.  I have an unregistered good condition FC that I want to turn into a regualr ride.  Too original to mess with but too changed to to take back to totally original (for me).  By the style it seems it was a project for someone in the 80's. Love it.  No pics up for you yet.  Thanks again.