I have been given this badge and trying to find out what vehicle it maybe have come from and how much it would be worth?

thanks for the reply,just had a look at the engine no. and it does start with the letter `L` so that makes this a 132,but it has been reconditioned so it could be anything now? i was told it is a canadian block and they are suppose to be a stronger block but i am not sure if this is true or a hoax?

without removing the head and measuring cylinder size, how do i know if i have a 132 motor in my 1958 fc as the previous owner told me it has?
cheer scott

the other day i decided to get my fc out of winter hibernation,went for a drive only to discover that the front r/h brake was dragging.
pulled both front wheel cylinders off to find the pistons were corroded inside the stainless sleeve wheel cylinders.i cleaned and polished the pistons,honed the cylinders and replaced the cups. is there something i can do to stop the corrosion from happening again?

if the crack is only on the external wall of the block and the crack is not entering the whelsh plug holes  this can be easily fixed.if you remove the starter motor you may be able to do this in the car.when i was in the engine reconditioning field we could repaire most cracks by drilling a hole at the start of the crack then tap a taper thread and using irontight sealer screw in a "A plug" untill the plug snaps off in the block.then you fit another "A plug" so it overlaps the first  "A plug" .when you have done the entire lenght of the crack then you get rounded punch and pean around the plugs to help seal and leaks then pressurise the cooling system to check for leaks.any engine reconditioning shop should be able to do this and be a premanate fix
cheers scott

gday,i am looking for 4 standard fc steel rims in the adelaide area that would be in good condition so i could fit them to my car. can anyone help me out? or can i get new rims made?
cheers scott

i have an fc which currently runs 13"x6" rims and 205x13 tyres all round.i have to change these rims/tyres back to a standard size for the club rego to comply. i know i have to run 13"x4.5" rims and i believe i can buy new rims from ROH that the same as standard rims, does the new ROH rims have the 3 lugs on them for the hubcaps to lock onto?
what is the best tyre size in radial tyres that would be the same as the conventional tyres? can i get white wall tyres in this size? or can i still buy the original size conventional tyres?
cheers scott

dont know if you already have this one, 
FC-225-3119-A
Trim 355-627
Paint 253-7773 
Chassis 8 3149 A
Eng No. L466583
this car is sitting home in my garage.                                                                                                                                                                               

i repaired the worn rubber bushes by replacing them with rubber wire grommets which has taken away all the wear movement in the linkage/bush, and i also stripped the vacuum motor,cleaned and reassembled with rubber grease and now the wipers are going alot quicker then before but they still are not covering a full stroke.the wiper blades will be just above the bottom of the windscreen at horizontal and will only wipe to about 4" past the vertical position.still having another 4" until the tip of the wiper blade will touch the side of the window seal. is it possible that the cam pivot is on backwards that the linkages connect to? has somebody got a picture of the correct layout of this setup showing how this is? or do they get better if i run them for longer as paddyfc58 suggested?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                        cheers scott

my fc is still running the vacuum wiper which i want to keep original. the wipers are working ok but the wiper arm does not do a full stroke across the windscreen{approx 2/3 stroke across } i have noticed there is wear in the joints of the centre oscilating arm that connects to the linkages behind the motor.is there rubber bushes that connect to the side linkages? if so can i still buy these?                              thanks scott

to use teflon valve stem seals you have to get the top of the valve guides machined to suit the seals. they are a push on type seal that have a spring collar around the base of the seal that lock into a groove around valve guide and another spring type collar that keeps the tension around the valve stem.an being teflon the seals will not detirate like the o-ring does in time. i havnt used teflon seals on my engines but i have machined the guides and fitted them to customers cylinder heads/race motors before and they have had no problems.personly i wouldnt bother trying to use them as the o-ring type was ok and you would have to remove your head and get it reconditioned to do it properly

so in your opinion  are the tie rods on ebay  to suit fc front ends or are they to fit something else? because they appear to all have tapered shanks on the knuckle end.                                                                                                                                                 cheers scott

hi all,                                                                                                                                                                                                   i own an fc with a standard front kingpin suspension and are looking to replace the inner tierods.on ebay i have found a set of tie rod ends which i an looking at buying, but they all appear to have tapered shanks on the knuckle end. i know the outer tie rods are the same(tapered shanks) so they lock into the steering arm on the wheel hub. but what i am not sure about are the inner tie rods. i thought the inner rods have a ball on the knuckle that lock into the cups inside tube type drag link? or does the ball lock onto the tapered shank of the tie rod?                                                                                                                                                                                       cheers scott

hi, i am looking for a left and right inner tie rods that connect to the drag link on a FC holden. I rang rare spares and they cant help me,hopefully some one on here could help me out?

thanks for the very helpful advice. i had a quick look underneath tonight and i think found the cause of the problem.looks like a few cold nights in the shed replacing steering components.when i drove the car i would keep the wheel steady and when i went through bump/uneven surface in the road it would go in either direction and yes the car has radial tyres and the front end is standard.

i have recently purchased a FC holden and being the first FC i have driven i would like to know if the FC's are common to wander around over the road? eg bumps in the road or different types of road surfaces/camber?

i forgot to mention that i think the number plate on that silver/red fc from mount martha was something like GMHFC 

about 3 months ago on the trading post web site i saw an silver/red fc for sale that looked like the one you are looking for.if i remember correctly it was at MOUNT MARTHA victoria and they were asking $16000 for it. it had a mild red motor,hi stall trans,grey interior with bucket seats,xb style side mirrors,  flared guards and had dragway indy mags.the car looked really good and if it wasnt so far away i would have gone to victoria to have a look at buying this car.

i have just purchased an 58 fc sedan special and the rear indicator lenses are clear in colour but are damaged from the sunlight and are cracked/brittle. i am looking to replace the lenses but only seem to find amber colour lenses, as i am new to this model car and want to try to keep it as standard  as possible are the lenses suppose to be clear or amber?    cheers scott

thanks for the reply.looks like i will stick with the bolt through the B pillar idea.(not really keen on cutting slots in a good interior.)I spoke to RARE SPARES over the phone and they can also supply a fitting kit with the seatbelts which include the anchor backing plates,bolts and barrel bolts.should this be all i would require or would contacting willshire be the better option?                                                                                                                                    yes stinky you are correct about not having to have seatbelts in a car built before 1967.but have been informed by the rego office that if you have a passenger under the age of 15 that you do require the car to have a restraint system,plus it dosent feel safe to drive without seatbelts fitted.  also stinky i noticed you live in this area. i am keen to join a car club do you know if their is one around this area?   cheers scott