FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

So I have had the old girl 8 years now and haven't driven her much. Stock 132 as I found out after calling myself NES138.
Anyway the V6 is about 232ci so I am adding 100ci and more than tripling the power.

I called my wife one day while she was at work, I'm off to Sydney (from Newcastle) with a car trailer. WTF FOR???

Ummm I just bought a T boned VT commodore....

WIFE: "I don't care what you do just keep the bench seat, column shift and gauges the same."

Challenge set. Ouch, some thought needed here. Although I was expecting more so to be sleeping outside with the dogs... I really wanted something I could drive with a bit more power and maybe cruise control with Air Con.

Anyway I thought I better start my thread as I have actually started a few months back and was researching alot before actually ripping into the ol girl.

Sincere apologies to my father-out-law who said it should remain stock. It was originally pieced together from about 8 different cars so was never truely original (FE interior and carpet on floor etc).

Photobucket taking its time uploading......

Donor car number one, Exec model high in k's but very clean. Engine runs very well and clean. Old fella owned it. Ran on gas too but need to ditch that. My wife doesn't want it to smell like a taxi!

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/26012012415.jpg)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/26012012417.jpg)

so what are the planes, other then v6,
there are a few nice independent front ends around now,
4 link or leaf rear,

im a fan of stock body and interior and modern running gear

You got it mate, going to keep it looking as stock as possible. Leaf spring rear with live axle diff. Larger floor hump with no hole (column shift auto) and hiding buttons galore in the glove box.
HR front end rack and pinion, commodore stud pattern all round. Not the Pat Gardner front as it'll stuff my insanely tight budget my wife has put me on. Seat belts from HT and no Frankenstein bolts.
Have to find an A/C unit to fit some how.

look at the toyota landcruser, under floor, heater, it can be easy modded to accept aircon, and is very small, + they go for around $75
it all comes down to your skill level and willingness to experiment

Start selling all the spares to help fund it
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/19022012555.jpg)

So Here's what I am starting with. As I am in the defence force I have been moved a few times since I first built it back in 06. I tell you the car moving companies have put more bloody dings and scratches in it than I would have liked. On the last move I rang an asked if the holding yard was dirt and not bitumen and if it was raining. Yes dirt and yes raining, How'd you know?
CAUSE THERE'S F@#$% MUD ALL THROUGH THE CAR. And it was all under the guards, not happy Jan.
They also pushed down on the boot leaving a hand crease that I filed for weeks to straighten. I did tell em to slam it but can understand why they didn't.

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/FC.jpg)

With a bit of spare time I fix PS3 consoles and did this initially to make enough money to buy the VT in the first place. MDF sheets and a PS3 wheel hooked up with a Commodore seat and the ol 54" TV and Grand Turismo 5 cranking through the thousand watt sony surround.

I have a few spare consoles so I will make another one to race against.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/13012012395.jpg)

Final product painted and in the spare room from wife's orders.....and smaller TV
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/08022012533.jpg)
Just need to make the frame for the other seat. Already have the console and steering wheel too.

Out ya come
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21032012599.jpg)

My new box trailer now has new rims
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/19122011280.jpg)

And an engine, fastest trailer around
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/24032012609.jpg)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/24032012603.jpg)

Gone
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/24032012606.jpg)

So far so good,
And now installation is the reverse procedure  :D

Cheers Stewy   8)

Yep, Easy right?

NES232 you've made a start. Good stuff. Using as many bits as possible will reduce the money pit.

Good luck.

Regards

Wayne b

Hey NES looking good I know what you are in for I'm just coming to the end of my transplant after a lengthy 12 years fired the engine for the first time in a long time a couple of weeks ago and it is a great feeling.
Have fun with the wiring etc keep the pictures coming and I hope your build doesn't take as long as mine.

Regards
Neil

And its finished!!!!
Moowahahahahahahahahaha
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/07022012521.jpg)

G,day Nes, I think there are a lot of people on the forum that would wish it was that easy!!!! you have a great starting point, hope all goes to plan and you have it on the road asap.
Regards Jim

Yep trying to use as much as possible.
Need a VS commodore now to get the live axle diff and fuel tank....

had to look at that pic twice,
 :D

Speaking of using all parts I want to use this
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/11022012540.jpg)
Look at all the wiring I get for free!!
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/24032012606.jpg)

Goddammit, posted the same photo twice, wont let me modify now. Clearly I am blaming Chivas Scotch and not me ;).
Anyhoo, wiring...... Lots of it!!
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/14072012549.jpg)

NES I know I might sound like a broken record regarding V6 Conversions gear but I mulled over my wiring harness for a long long time and then decided it was easier to buy one of Pats and save myself all of the headaches.
I know other members of the forum have spent the time to utilise the donor harness and I take my hat off to them but I used the original engine harness and Pats for the rest only 6 wires come through the firewall.
I went from not knowing where to start to my engine running and being able to drive the car in a very short time, as I've said before it had been 12 years before I got smart.
I have to admit that Pats harness didn't solve all of the problems I have since had to get VSS adapter kit to run my original speedo, signal amplifier to get my tacho working and have just had my fuel tank level sender altered to match my FC gauge.
Regards
Neil

Hey Neil, I actually have a wire harness from Pat sitting here and was tempted to use it (for sale now). Thought very long and hard about what I wanted, I sat down and went through the pros and cons of using the complete harness verses Pats and came up with this:
*I want to use all the dash buttons inside the glovebox like JB on his ute (thanks JB)
*Use the same wiper switch as Brett_f (Thanks Brett)
*Use remote central locking with a key that will start the car
*Use an immobiliser that is built into the Body Control Module
*Cruise Control
*Boot release
*Wire plug to fuel tank
*Use as many parts from donor car as possible to save money (and not buy Pats $900 harness, I didn't buy the one here)
*I don't trust the wires in the car to start with
*There is no reverse wires or separate indicators etc to the rear of the car

Yep its a MASSIVE pain in the arse but I think I will appreciate it in the end.
I painstakingly removed EVERY wire in total (500mm hole in firewall too!!) So I know it works and is complete including bulbs and wires even removed out of headlights.
All up I think it best to use the VT harness. Although to keep standard look I will need a VSS adaptor and resistor for fuel gauge and then hiding as much wiring as possible!

Cheers

Check out that hole!!!!
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/30032012619.jpg)

My EH build was on the basis of use as much as possible from the donor VT as well, including the wiring loom etc. Used V6 conversions engine mounts, extractors and steering rack. You can see it at http://www.ehholden.com.au/gallery/mempage/mempage01642.htm which gives all the specs.  Its all very do-able.  I used the VT speedo, had Holden disable the airbag system. Now has a aftermarket steering wheel  (must update photo) on the VT column with my own adapter.
I also used the fuel pump using a weldring from Castle Electric  http://www.castleauto.com.au/   Go to Products, EFI components and scroll down.
Worth buying the CDRom manual from Holden. Only had to lengthen two parts of the loom, grabbed the pieces from the wreckers and spliced them in. Watch the colour codes on wires, often has same colours on different gauge wires. Basically left the location on components in the same place, although I did re route the ECM wiring that travels from the right side across the firewall to the inside. Not as radical rewire as JB's.

Cheers  Keith

Bloody beautiful ride mate. I need a hairdryer bolted onto mine too!
Glad to see you have the VT booster and master setup, how does it run with those calipers? I have been asking the commodore guys about it and they keep saying just put the VT calipers on. That is so much more involved. At least this way if I use VT master and Booster I can upgrade my VS calipers at a later stage and not worry about the booster/master later.
I haven't got the CD yet but will have to get it very soon. Do you have a link to more build photos? Thanks Keith
Cheers

Unfortunately the motors are different, different heads being the main prob in bolting the factory supercharger on, different internals also.  Re photos have plenty but not on any website, happy to share via email. Brakes are fantastic, no need at all to go VT.  VS calipers will need a adapter plate to bolt up to HQ stubs, drop spindles are a better idea as either caliper will bolt up. HQ blanks were drilled with commodore pattern to match rears.  Booster is mounted to firewall with a bracket from Pat, had to modify it to suit different bolt spacing on booster.   Cheers

I am aware of their differences (dual belts etc etc) and if I am ripping out this engine after all this I'll be going 304!!!. Great news on the brakes. I have already got mine sorted, photos in the thread soon.  PM sent, Cheers

Photos in the thread if pete gets his s--t sorted on the brake side.

Yeah Pete Hurry up ;D

At least you will have a stereo to listen to while its up on blocks.  ;D

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/20120725_141138.jpg)

SPOILER ALERT!!!
Thunder Stealer

OH well complain after i chop that diff was that 80mm or 100mm you wanted chopped LOL ;D

Tu Shea Mister Hoon ;D
Look familiar JB?

This sunset might look familiar to you too (well the airfield will anyway). Pretty good windows where I work.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/11032012570.jpg)

I'll steal the stereo out of the VT too. Not anything massively fancy But at least I can control with remote from drives seat after its fitted in Hoon's creation.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05022012501.jpg)

Cut transmission tunnel in case I needed it later
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05042012625.jpg)

Car is pretty much gutted and deprived of almost everything
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05042012636.jpg)

Looks like a stolen car now....
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05042012635.jpg)

I scored a live axle LSD (for pretty much nothing) as I didn't want the pain of trying to fit an IRS diff. Plan is to get another diff to use both short axles.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05042012627.jpg)

I don't need that tunnel now though as I ended up buying a tunnel from Patty G. At least I know they fit really well

So what do I still need since I used as much as I could from the VT?
Another diff, steel fuel tank, manual steering rack, HR drum stubs, Steering arms, steel, sump, rotors and calipers to suit drum stubs...

Mr wreckers can I have a diff and fuel tank from a VS? 300 bucks... :-\

P plater on gumtree with VS run out of rego I have a bet for you. I bet you 400 bucks I can put your car on my trailer.
I won the bet....
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/17042012664-1.jpg)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18042012665.jpg)

I took to my phone to advertise Car parts on gumtree as soon as I left the guys house, as I was unloading car at my place.....Phone call:  Can I buy the front end panels for 400 bucks? I'll be there this afternoon.
Bloody beautiful, free diff and tank for me  ;D ;D ;D
The bloke who bought the panels changed his VP into a VS in an afternoon
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/02052012405.jpg)

This is where I am sleeping tonight. My wife is not happy with me buying another car
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/07022012526.jpg)
She doesn't understand the price of free. I bet if I told her it was a new pair of shoes I bought and then sold the box it came in for the same price she'd understand.

What does Holden need to do for that?
For the ABS I was told just to take out the fuse and system disabled.

They use their Tech 2 to set the number of loops to 0 in the speedo, this stops the setting of alarms in the speedo (stops airbag light coming on) and the ecu, stops the check engine light coming on, and the subesquent chimes each time you start it. 

Thanks Keith, Really appreciate the lengthy email and tonnes of photos too. Massive help. Cheers


WHEELS.... Had a bloke roll up (pun intended) looking for a door and noticed the fake clubsport rims. He said he didn't like his 18's as they were too hard to ride on so he swapped me. I still had the 15's off the VT and the 17's on the trailer. Bloody wheels everywhere.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18042012667.jpg)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/08052012457.jpg)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/04052012432.jpg)

And then there are these wheels which with commodore stud pattern are useless to me. Now need to find a suitable rim for an FC
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05072012738.jpg)

Picked up a set of pacemaker extractors a while back, painted em up and since realise they don't bloody fit...
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/03072012524.jpg)

Side note with the Clubby rims, Couldn't find a key for the lock nuts. Result was me having to SMASH on an 18mm socket unwind half way and then try and smash the socket off the nut. What a bitch to get off.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/23042012698.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/23042012699.jpg)

I was also told that if Holden worked your engine they changed the colour of the rocker covers. But this engine is completely shagged with near 340kms on it. I'm not using this one
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/23042012700.jpg)

side note, next time you need to get lock nuts off without the key, get your self a pin socket

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Multi-fit-socket-7mm-19mm-/360254762551

unlocks any and all security nuts and bolts

Dammit, I looked everywhere for one of those and couldn't find one. I just bought this one now anyway!
I had to get em off quick anyway as I sold them
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18052012478.jpg)

The VT came with a stage 4 memcal chip and I painted up some pacemaker extractors.....
Yep they're the ones that don't fit,  Don't know if I'm going to bother with that EGR thing hanging down the side.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/22072012575.jpg)

Speaking of not fitting, I also asked a few weeks back about ABS and VT calipers. I now know why the ABS can't run as it is a sealed hub and I need to fit a stub axle
So I am running VS calipers all round
Here they are all dirty and then blasted
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/03072012733.jpg)

Left over paint so I painted em and then cured the paint.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/03072012525.jpg)
hahahahahhahahahahhahahaha
shit sleeping in the car again......  :'(

Oh you will be popular.

Hey NES, when I did my brake drums in the oven  I waited till no-one was home....still stunk the house up though  ;D.

Dean.

My wife was on night shift and I was up drinking cleaning and utilised the oven. I also left it on for four hours after it to get the smell out and still failed. It's ok now though. round two for rear calipers might be different. ;)

BBQ with the lid down

Yep, that's exactly what I did

Wore this at the All Holden Day, just wanted to add it to my thread
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05082012608.jpg)
Lots of people asked where I got it from
Tell him Marc told you about em
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/180856585980?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649#ht_1993wt_952

Time to get started ripping into the car itself. Fuel tank first
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/31052012479.jpg)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/31052012481.jpg)

Hole cut and VS unit sitting in the hole
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05072012526.jpg)
Gotta turn it round obviously. Plan to keep the original neck and graft it in. Legally the engineer doesn't care about it being unleaded neck as you can't buy unleaded anymore. I'll have to put the breather on the neck though.

Get the ol girls heart out
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/02072012731.jpg)

And a filthy bay ready to clean up and modify
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/02072012732.jpg)

Diff ready to come out
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05072012529.jpg)

Front end now out
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05072012531.jpg)

and my car on the driveway.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/08072012746.jpg)

So here is the HR front end sitting under and ready to trial fit, Have an EJ outrigger ready to attach.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05072012530.jpg)

I have since sold it but here is the V6 conversions harness that I had. It came with the extractors that didn't fit. I decided not to use it as I had already removed the complete VT harness and wanted to be able to run cruise control central locking and retain the security from the VATS in the BCM that comes with the VT Commodore
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/06072012542.jpg)
As previously talked about I have decided to run the VT pedals, brake booster and master cylinder. I am amazed at how little I had to mod it to fit. FEVANV6 will attest to that.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/14072012547.jpg)

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/14072012546.jpg)

Here is the seat I knocked up so I can work in the engine bay
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/14072012550.jpg)

So I searched for a column shift auto and found a bloke around the corner, I asked as he was wrecking a VS ute if he had an auto column shift and he said only if I had a standard column. Sweet swap and installed it. Hell of a lot cheaper than spending a few hundred at the wreckers
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/16072012554.jpg)
It installed with minimal effort and I figured out if I took out the inner shaft and put it on a lathe to make the top roller bearing sit 32mm further down the shaft I could run the original steering wheel.

  >:( WIFE: That looks like shit take it out :-[

So back to the drawing board

I agree with the wife

looks like you put an auto vs colum in there.

Well I agreed too which is why I was asking in the mod section regards columns. An EK auto column is the only one I can find that'll take an FC steering wheel and fit the car (and is auto).
I have acquired one and can't find the bloody photo.

Here you go, EK auto column with FC wheel in FC, by using the EK column you gain about 4 inches of extra gut space

(http://s7.postimage.org/v7zjazwfr/A1_PEARLED_WHEEL.jpg) ($2)

You have to graft the FE-C gear stick to the EK gear stick and drill 3 holes through the blinker stick housing for the quadrant light

Fairly straight forward at the steering wheel end, but I don't know about modding the lower part of the column
as the rest of this column is standard

Cheers, Gary

PS good to meet you and the family at the AHD NES

Just re read this and need to clarify

EK Auto Column
EK Honey Pot
FC blinker bit & blinker arm, best to use this in my case because the wiring is different on the EK blinker unit
FC wheel,
FC gear stick with EK lower grafted on lower end to work on EK tube

Gary

Gary

Just I understand, why 3 holes?
Wouldnst the quadrant light be there already on a ek auto column?

For all those that would like have a T700 operated through an FE/FC/FB/EK column with the original look and steering wheel to satisfy yourself or wife here it is mocked in my vice ready for Kathi's FE

http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,13040.340.html ($2).

Earlier in this thread about page 11 you can see the one for our FE Van.  This is done a bit differently as it was my first try.  The Van has done 30k with this setup, works brilliantly and to most onlookers looks like a stocky three on the tree.   It has:

* a proper gate so it the gears are operated safely
* the PRNDL has been modded for a 4 speed auto
* it has a neutral safely switch with reversing lights

We just drove back from the Riverland this afternoon.  Its so easy to drive and the engine barely ticks over with the overdrive.


Stash three holes need to be drilled in the FE/FE spacer if you dont want to use the EK one.  Two holes for the screws for EK chromey thingy and one hole for globe.  You could make this set up without using any EK parts except the chromey thingy.

The thread shows the gate i filed.  The adapter to the column for the cable and the bracketry down the side of the trans.  The van uses a 57 Chev gear lever and EK auto honey pot.  Kathi's is using her standard gear lever and modded honey pot as we want an even more restored look (heeheehee).

Hope someone reads this.  It has been done, it works  and it looks period.

regards

John

G'day Stash

Yep, as John says, you could use the EK spacer with the holes already in it, but the little black box with the wiring in it is has a different wiring layout (less wires)

So if you are requiring the original set up for blinkers, it's easier to drill the FE FC spacer than to fiddle around in the little black box ::) but you need the EK Honeypot as the gear shift locating pin is different.

Gary

Thanks guys, that makes sense.
Didnt understand why you wouldnt use the EK, they are identical bar the wiring. Not sure what the extra wires do. Anyone??? You could always swap over the wiring and black ending into the EK frame.

John

Stash,

if you unscrew the little black box to swap it over (it's only a cover), the guts consist of, would you believe, tiny little springs and ball bearings, a real bugger to put back together, it's a lot easier to drill the FE-FC spacer instead

Gary

Gary,

Yeah, know about those babies.  ??? have refurbished 2 now FC and EK column.

Can anyone know what the extra wires are for? reverse lights on the indicators?

Cheers

John

The extra wires in the indicator on FEs and I understands early FCs (they are late model cars) is for red flashing indicators. I replaced the EK the black bits with an FE setup from ebay (the Van had EK an column when purchased) set up.  Yes you have to be careful little ball bearings dont go flying.  If you want the more usual separate orange indicators just use the EK wiring.  I like the original FE indicators and they are still legal.

regards

John

makes sense to me.

Thanks John,
This all seems to be right round the corner and I will be doing the wiring in a few weeks. So did you use the wires from FC or EK? I think I have to use the Ek as I haven't looked to see if the FC ones I have contain all the wires for reverse and indicators.
Cheers

The FE/FC indicator has two sets of wires.  One set works the front indicators and idiot lights.  The second set are wired through your brake lights so the brake lights flash as indicators.  Sounds weird but you just have to follow an FE wiring loom or most GM US looms which use the same system.

The FB/EK setup omits the second set of wires and so you can only have separate orange indicators at the rear.

I used a hotrod wiring loom which I could use either system.

The reversing lights have nothing to do with indicator and are controlled by the neutral switch safety switch.  I must admit having reversing lights make it easier when backing the van at night.

regards

John   

thanks for the clarification John. makes sense now.
reburbishing the columns at the moment, so is very timely.

The extra wires in the FE FC indicator are to run the brake lights through them. So the FE FC indicator switch has 2 wires for each front indicator and 2 wires for each rear indicator, whereas the FB EK switch has all the indicators run from just the 2 wires.

Ken

Hi nes, can you tell me the size of the vt booster,ill make a cardboard cut out and see if it fits

I'll text ya later mate

So anyway I have been a little slack. I had to try out the molasses thing so went and bought some.  Cant believe ow well it works too.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/01062012482.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/01062012483.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/01062012484.jpg)

So here she is all ready for a trial fit, power steer pump and aircon removed
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/24062012514.jpg)

Patty Gardner mounts
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/24062012719.jpg)
You'll see how the VS aircon unit is heaps smaller and will mount drivers side infront of brake booster
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/02052012387.jpg)

I forgot to take a photo of the springs after but ere they are all painted up
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18072012566.jpg)
Calipers on a shitty old disc
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18072012562.jpg)
But hey they fit inside my rims really well.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/29072012761.jpg)

A very big thank you to FChOON for the hr stub axles and his mounting plates. Really is appreciated mate 

Yes I know the bleeder on caliper upside down and mount plate bolts back to front. My haste and excitement for a photo tripped me up. LOTS more care when installing in car.
At least I spent the money on new bearings wile they're out. Oh and new bendix pads all round too

How about i buy you a tin of calliper paint thats not so special (insert a very gay voice)
In the rim it looks red

They look pink on the ground pic tho are these wifey approved ?


And can you try putting a steering arm on and show me that you cannot run callipers on the back side i use to run mine on the back to clear the front crossmember im sure i did ?


looking good tho.

The sun must have caught them in a weird light. They are definatley Red (in the deepest voice I can muster)

I don't have steering arms yet.....Hint Hint

Their expensive i hear..

Looking good there Nes,keep up the momentum. ;)

Thats it Ive had a gut full of trying to get this bloody V6 up and going, I quit

FOR SALE V6 ENGINE SETUP FOR FC WITH EXTRACTORS AND MOUNTS

   WTF Mark

Mark

Keep it going mate.
 :o :o :o :o

Cheers

Craig D

2 ways to approach this... Gee Nes you poor thing... Or HTFU and sort one problem out at a time, quitting doesn't get it done!!!
Use which ever one makes an impact.
Give me a call if you need to.

I have a complete driveline for an fc apparentlly the bloke was putting one of them silly commodore v6,s in his car  ;D

Awwww so now it's my fault?Thought I was encouraging.... ??? :)

Not your fault mate, the momentum has changed though.
Engine is definately for sale though. Had enough of trying with this V6 stuff.

Someone at the airport said you had bought a wrecked Isuzu diesel... Haven't seen an oil burner in an FC sedan....  :P :P

I think I've found your problem with it not fitting easily - did you remove this before you popped it in there?

(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/14072012550.jpg)

Don't give up so quickly - modifying vehicles is not a quick build by numbers exercise.  :)

At least that comment has brought a smile. The V6 is however definitely going and is for sale.

nes are you going for the V8 now,don't blame you nothing beats the sound of a V8

You mean one like this?
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/IMG_3519.jpg)
Wouldn't that be nice

you do want  a divorce dont you

Got a Gen3 ForSale,you can run cabys so it's easier than messing with injection and spaghetti.

It's not how fast you go,it's how you go fast !

''Take me drunk,i'm home'' !   ;D

Orange cabys from QLD or yellow cabys from VIC? They're all Indian aren't they?
BA ahahahahahahahahahha :P

Hey Nes what were the actual problems that have made you want to give up on the V6 I have gone back and read your thread and it does not seem to tell us what has actually happened.
I agree with the other members and don't give up; I am just now at the end of my 12 year V6 build and have never thought of giving it up even though there were times when I could not solve a trying issue.
The engine now runs just sweet and the car drives well and I have done it all by myself, sure there are things I wish I did better but it is all a learning curve.
Everybody on the forum has had times I'm sure when they want to shelve some plans but all you have to do is tell us the issues and somebody will be able to tell you a solution.

Dont give up mate.

Regards
Neil

Better come clean Nes....

Neil hes a drama queen all will be revealed

Hey Nes,

that engine looks very familiar

NO IT DOESN'T   ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???

Got no idea what your talking about mate?

All right photo bucket has finished..... being a big girl apparently. Scrapping the V6 conversion as I bought yet ANOTHER donor car.

Time to take the nappy off and put my BIG BOY pants on..... VT 5LT SS
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/DSCF4340.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/DSCF4342.jpg)

Its a manual and unfortunately the wife (whom Graciously gave approval for the car) wrote in the extensive list of terms and conditions which was signed on the spot  ;D
SOME of which where must remain auto and column shift............ More to come

I HAVE SUCH A HARD ON FOR THE V8 NOW!!!!
 :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I don't mind play'n cowboy!

Cant..... completely plastered now.... ;)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/DSCF4366.jpg)
MMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMMm

Just in case you missed the daylight version of it.....
Gotta smile you just cant wipe off  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/DSCF4365.jpg)

Look like Nasco still make the original bonnet supports

You just have to get in in here now...  :P



(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03797.jpg)

And suddenly your thread means so much more to me. Stayed up a little too long last night re reading it and "here we go again" and "first go at it"

Oh you mean like this????
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/290820126331.jpg)

Probablly wanna pull air con and alternator off before you try to hard

plus all the other extraneous crap on it... it's a tight fit, the required 10mm clearances will seem generous.

Yup, power steer pump, air cond, alternator... All don't fit. Not sure about the headers either...

Forgot to mention the sump as well...

has anyone used or heard about these axels,good price and just cut to length and fit a commadore diff
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/320965959476?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Hey NES

When you get the shits with the 5L and throw another tantrum,spit the dummy & chuck a wobbly as before.
Don't panic because I have put aside a motor at work for you to try next.






(http://s13.postimage.org/sl2xlxbsj/2011_11_22_11_56_00.jpg) ($2)

Yeah the SS is right in front of it and when I spun it round to drag it away I thought a good photo opportunity. I know about all the removals of extra bits and want an auto gearbox (to keep the misses happy).

I am so much more happy with the conversion now even if it is costing extra and will definately be happier in the long run.

Wow, Mc Bean, now thats an engine

a V16 .........paxton ?

ProMac at cardiff will cut the ones I have to suit for $143 per side

Nice looking engine NES, should have a bit more grunt than the grey ;)
          Pedro

True, and another set of complications and more costs..

I still have the grey motor if you have another hissy fit and change your mind (again)  ;D

ouch

Oh so you mean like this then?
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/14092012648.jpg)

Using EFILIVE to hook up to the car computer. It shows all faults etc and live RPM, speed too. I'll use this to remove the airbag warning amongst other things.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/14092012654.jpg)
It's a shitty old laptop that I can leave permanently in the car if needed.

ight have to cut a hole in the bonnet.
Might look a bit silly a pc catcher hanging out the bonnet. ;D

Boo Hoo Boo Hoo, that is my misses crying when she seen what you did to her be lovered car Mark.

? its in one piece. So I don't know what your talking about

More info on EFI Live?

is it just specific to the Delco 808?

Cheers

Ed

A Vt commodore works on OBD1 protocols, that's to say its the primitive version that GM were using in the 90's for computers in cars.

Holden require a "TECH2" to plug into the system and do things like remove airbag warnings etc. I wanted to use OBD2 protocols but they were only on the VT HSV models onwards. All I wanted was to view the info that you get on the VT LCD instrument panel.
Here is the difference, my 07 grand cherokee plugs in and sends information to my iPad like this
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JdwaLeVoW8I&feature=fvwrel
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/dash%20command_zpsf535cf79.jpg)(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/dash%20command%202_zps2421851f.jpg)

Alass it won't work so i had to go primitive. With an ALDL cable I can plug straight in and change map settings and remove my dirty airbag warning without having to go to Holden.
Here it is working on a VR Commodore http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCaVbjd2wbo
I don't know how or even if I will integrate it in the final finish

Its a shame cause with the OBD2 wiring I could have activated the door lock and unlock functions from my iPhone and even start the car using it.

Kinda going backwards again but I wanted to show how close I came to using the V6. I had it in the car using modified engine mounts from V6conversions with standard red engine rubber mounts. The metal one that Pat sent in the mounting kit were pretty small and questionable for use. Not being an engineer or boiler maker I did not pick this up (cheers McBean). So Andrew came round to work some metal magic. In the photos the smaller ones were from V6Conversions.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/13082012618_zps98b35e91.jpg)(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/13082012619_zps34b968cd.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/13082012621_zpsddfe17d9.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/DSCF4374.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/DSCF4371.jpg)

I had them in and ready to weld - all lined up
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18082012626_zpsb23a24f1.jpg)(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18082012628_zpsc13f886c.jpg)

I don't have the photo on me but they were pretty well welded in. The extractors that I scored from  michaeljohn1234m wrorked so beautifully well too.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/18082012629_zpsfe1a3ea7.jpg)
I wish I had a better photo but they swept from the block through the tiny gap perfectly.

Been a while between drinks (actually I’ve had too many drinks) and the transplant has taken a bit more time to go back and plan exactly what I need to accomplish. Looks like I can use the complete loom from the VT V6 as all the plugs are the same.
Decision: Do I get rid of the whole car that is left or wreck it? I had it for sale for a while and ridiculously cheap for a complete car missing the engine, mind you.  No takers so decision made for me. I decided to wreck the car must to the previous owners distress  :P.  But since making that decision I now have a complete set of central door locking motors and power window motors.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05112012716.jpg)
I ripped them all out and to ensure I can run it all I checked the compatibility of the SS VT Series1 loom  with the V6 loom (from VT series 2) and wouldn’t you know it, the door loom plugs are different. Fearing the fact it took me 4 days to painfully remove every wire from tail light bulb to headlight bulb, my wife gave me the stern look I was dreading. “You better make sure it works”. Rather than find out later (if the V6 SII loom works or not) I removed the harness from the SS.

Plugs to loom in centre of photo
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/15102012772.jpg)
At least this way I have a loom that is guaranteed to work and have a spare loom to extend wires etc. My wife is excited about the power windows and central locking too!
Speaking of my wife, she has almost perfected Macaroons, much to my delight!!!
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/19102012775.jpg) (http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/12102012764.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/20102012776.jpg)
The gearbox mount was tacked in and due change of engine was not fully welded in case it needed to be moved.
The Engine mounts however ALMOST fit; I only had to move them 15mm forward. This helped give clearance with the firewall too and helped line up gearbox cross member with the “U” piece for the tunnel.

This shows difference between V6 and V8 that leaves a gap between the blue U piece and the black cross member, moving engine forward fixed this
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/15102012774.jpg)

And after the move its flush
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05112012721.jpg)
Speaking of clearance from the engine (and with a lot of help from McBean) I started cutting out parts of the metal fold along the rails where the oil filter and balancer would have fouled on. (NO COMMENT REQUIRED HERE McBEAN!)

Area cut for balancer
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/15102012771.jpg)

To neaten it up, the fold was removed completely and seam welded. Above the engine mounts the rails were cut out and another piece slid in to create more room. One rail had blood hay in it???
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/15102012767.jpg)
 (http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/15102012768.jpg)

McBean showing Hoon you don’t need a guard…
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/01112012710.jpg)

Working some pretty nice metal magic there, far beyond my ability (No comment required here FCHoon)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/01112012711.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/01112012712.jpg)

With the new curve we gained extra room, this is with the engine back in
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05112012717.jpg)

While the engine was out I started marking out the wiring. 60mm hole saw for the fire wall did the job for the wiring to the computer.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05112012723.jpg)

After wrecking 3 commodores for parts and changing engines, sleeping in the dog house etc. etc. I had 3 radiators. The VS V6 one is tiny and the V8 VT is a lot thicker than the VT V6 one. The Radiator (Similar to White FC) was recessed in and sunk down. I had a little frame made up to sit the radiator in.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/02112012713.jpg)

I marked out where to cut and with my awesome grinder skills cut very neatly (definitely no comments McBean and Hoon)

Let’s just say I can control Aircraft from the Tower at work a hell of a lot better… ;D ;D ;D

Anyway after I slotted it in there was bugger all gap left between the balancer and the radiator.
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05112012719.jpg)

As well as the radiator I’m going to have to look at the sump mods and steering rack placement.
Colours seem to be odd, here is the gap I am looking at
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/05112012722.jpg)
That’s it for now, Still a heap more…..

PS: The following batches of macaroons that were made were almost perfect!!!

 :-X no comment on the grinding.
Good stuff Lucky Mcbean im glad i live 30kms away.

I may have to come and help
I know your a drunk so im bound to get a beer and i absolutely love macaroons..

(maybe she could try and get "melting moments" down pat next another favourite..

I think I need a keg system.....I'm not that bad, honest  ;D

Melting moments already one of her best!!

Great work Nes.  Keep the updates coming.  I may be 6 or so moths behind, but your updates will keep me motivated and the ideas fresh.  Great work. 

PS Thanks for the motivation to go a inj v8.  I feel alot better about the conversion now.  Will be happier with the end result.

Jase
hrpremier

Look'n good,is your engineer ok with the mods to your subframe,keep the pic's com'n.  Gaz! :P

Yeah i am so much happier now with the V8. More of a challenge but in the end there ain't now way that my would sound like this.

Just had an exhaust bloke tell me twin 2.5 system is overkill......... I call bullshit

Nes

2.5 inch is the way to go.

Sounds great and look good to. I have acouple of big cannons hanging off the back.

Go hard.

Cheers

Craig D

Miles of clearance there NES, check out how little room there is with the rb30 crammed in, with all you blokes fitting v8's now I'm starting to wish I'd gone down that path, you can't beat the rumble of an eight with twin pipes.
          Pedro

there is still time!!

He wont look back with a rb30 ... ;D

Hi Nes, are the extractors that you had for the V6 to suit a rear mounted rack and pinion? If so, are they still for sale?
Regards Ole.

You mean i will look back with the rb30, back to see where everyone else is ;) ;D ;D
         Pedro

nes, can you give me the measurements for the vt 6 and 8 radiators, and some more photos of the cut in for the radiator
as i'm looking that way with mine

Hi Michael, The V6 and V8 radiators are the same measurements except the V8 one is thicker. I managed to make it fit but recessed to the max. Lots cut away and the thermos don't fit. Haven't figured out the trans cooler and zircon condenser yet.

Is that a hint NES ;) ;)

Yes  :P

If you get an old V8 radiator from a radiator shop, you will find that in the VT the plastic tanks went before the core.

Then you can have the faulty tanks removed and make your own using 50x50 aluminium box section and some alloy tube for the hose ends. I cut down 3 horizontal rows, had the tanks welded on and had a custom radiator for under $250.

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB210023.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/P5290004.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/PB210024.jpg)

(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y184/Fevanv6/story%20to%20tell/DSC03838.jpg)

Sorry to hijack Nes.

All good JB, Good idea you have used there too. Your engine is 100mm further back and at least the thermo fans fit!
I have a radiator that is only 2 years old (only used for 12 months) and I'd like to be able to keep it. If it claps  out in the future I can get an off the shelf one then. I have managed to make it fit.... photos coming michael

Did you use a grinder  ;D

Or was mcbean involved..

Truthfully? ;D

JB. Looks like your iginition module might foul on the wiper arms if you leave it in the postion in the final picture  ::)

So here I am. I don't like my face on but here tis. Supporting MOVEMBER too. Donate if ya like below
https://www.movember.com/au/donate/payment/member_id/257472/
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21112012755.jpg)

WELCOME TO THE MARYLAND CHOP SHOP. Where tools are an imagination and grindererering is a specialty  ???

Quick update, Trying to massage the radiator area.  Made up a C channel as a radiator support and using it instead of what was there. Heaps stronger I think and McBean threw in a strengthening plate. I wouldn't have thought to do it this way but I think his solution is better. (Sits on the outrigger).
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21112012737.jpg)


As it turns out, if I shorten the radiator pipe by this much I can get away with using the original
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21112012739-1.jpg)

Only problem is I need to recess through as per the photo. Bit of pipe will do the trick
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21112012742.jpg)
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21112012741.jpg)


Flat plates beside the radiator support
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21112012738.jpg)

Here is the inside view, Turns out the manual car I had had an auto radiator
(http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o535/nes232/21112012745.jpg)

So the plan is to run the gearbox oil lines to the radiator instead of the oil cooler seperate bit. Leaves me heaps of room for thermo fan and hopefully a condenser for the AirCon

MOving along nicely.
Wouldn't 1 of those flexi hoses have been a better option to get clearance?
Regards
Alex

As I understand it the hose would still need to go around the rail, a flexible one one lay across it and eventually wear through.

nes are you allowed to cut into the sub frame have you asked anyone (engineer)
i got my VT rad & fans today i don't think i have to cut the sub ??? yet, only had a quick look, will have to cut the inner guards would like more photo's in this area
if possible wrong photo it's the next one sub frame

Yeah mate, I am using steel that is twice as thick as original so its going to be a stronger unit anyway.

Well as you can see I now don't need to cut the chassis rail. I found a random hose that some how fit. It had to be trimmed down a little. I think it came off the V6 not sure. But as you can see below I had a few there to test. It needed to go 90deg up then 90deg towards the drivers side before sweeping up to the water pump. Makes it easier now I have hoses for the radiator and it won't rub on any metal. The top one was a simple case of cutting it shorter and it did the job.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/07/y7e2yqa3.jpg)

I am so excited about this update. Finally posting pics of my rims!

So FCHoon did a very good job shortening diff housing for me. MASSIVE thanks to him. I got the axles back and here is the trial fit with my WEAPONS..... I've wanted these wheels for 15 years.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/08/ty7utate.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/08/umezeden.jpg)

Trial with front calipers (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/08/ha5amega.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/12/12/08/u8apudan.jpg)

the rear wheel looks to be sitting too far back.
are you going to have the calipers front or rear and what steering are you going to use?

I made the diff brackets 50mm offset so he looks like a fool....



Id say he has just sat it in there pretty hard to misalign it if its bolted up on leafs..


Love the white wall....

And im sure the wife loves the seedy 70,s porn star moustache gone. ;D


Pete

What diff housing have you used to handle the new upgrade.  Looks a treat. Great progress. Lets hope we all have some time over christmas to have a bit of a productive time in the shed.

Looking really nice there NES, the Simmons will look classy. What size wheel & tyre combo are running ( can't quite read it ).

Dean.

Exactly what FCHoon says mate. I just threw it in there to make sure I got the measurements right with these wheels. Its not even sitting on the leaf. Although the brackets line up very well (thanks again Pete).
Also Pete is right, My wife likes me without the dirty porn mo!!

Diff is shortened VS from a ute. They are 226/60R15's and pretty bloody tight in the wheel well.
I'll post some more photos of the diff in particular soon.

Looking good mate.

Thanks mate. Haven't really done that much over Xmas although I have gran turismo  x2 now!!!(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/01/25/ubu5abyg.jpg)

Nice set up. Though the cars are on the wrong sides.  ;D
Regards
Alex

Cars wrong sides?

Should probably post a section on "What slows down your build" or "Other Hobbies" .......

Any way I am getting into Chilli growing and have some nice varieties including birds eye Thai,Yellow Cayenne, Fat reds, Purple round, lemon, tobasco and the very very hot Orange Pablano..... So I thought.

I was also given a Jolokia plant and I am waiting for the fruit to start. It is three times hotter than Pablano and is at the top of the Scoville scale!!
Check this guy out, It's funny but watch for the real "kicker' at the end ;)


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZstObB4RVsQ&NR=1&feature=endscreen

Might stop the tool from breeding  ;D.

Haha yeah he is a tool

So gearbox crossmember now complete....
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/06/6uvana3u.jpg)V

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/06/2y6azy4a.jpg)

It's from V6 conversions but in true style had to modify it and move it back (Massive thanks to Andrew).

Rubber mount beneath the 4L60E tranny sits a series 1 VN mount instead of the VT mount. This is so it sits nicely on the crossmember.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/06/tute6ema.jpg)

Carpet is now not wide enough with new hump test fitted 😡
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/06/6e3ybate.jpg)

EK Automatic front carpet fits  ;D ;D ;D ;D ......FC427.......

One ahead of you mate  ;)

Don't think your getting your hands on my EK auto carpet.  :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

I think I drove past you at Edgeworth last week NES, those wheels look awesome on your FC just like you told me back when I was selling my old girl.
Craig

I know where you live McBean!!!

Hey Craig funny you mention that. Put em on to check clearances. So bloody close she ain't funny. The are 8" wide... But don't touch at full upwards movement
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/09/ysanyjuv.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/09/u5u2yhaq.jpg)
Prob get 3 hairs between the wishbone
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/09/9a4yma7e.jpg)

Sent the engineer a 12 page email with detail of everything and photos and thumbs up for everything. Loves the lengths I'm going to to make sure it's done correctly.

I really have McBean to thank for this as he is a bit of a guru with this stuff...
Cheers mate

Oh and they are happy with old school belts. No inertia belts needed.

Nice work Nes,looking good.

Got stuck into it again today and tunnel was finished
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/gytu6a8u.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/ma7emy7y.jpg)
Not allowed to show his face...,
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/8a6arydy.jpg)

Welded in the support bar for the radiator too
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/9ubuhuve.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/10/uza9yhut.jpg)

That is good progress, nice work Nes.

Regards

Wayne b

Thanks guys and thanks again to McBean

looking good nes, it's great to get the some time to work on the cars , who is the engineer your using, as i'm still looking for one

Well I've been playing with the mockup kit from Vintage and a little cutting help it slide up the middle and I keep the stereo. Loose the 6x9 speaker though and just enough clearance for wiper arms. Just make out the black plastic at the base of the dash and the vintage air badge through the grill
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/16/ytu9ybar.jpg)

Had the steering mounts knocked up and the engineer wanted them 8mm thick!!(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/16/2yny3yta.jpg)
Still need the holes drilled obviously but it leaves a nice hole for my sump and sits in front of the gearbox nicely
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/16/yzejazet.jpg)

All the wiring in the car weighs 15kg!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/02/16/ezanury3.jpg)

Wiring.... hahahahahahahah
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Have fun Nes I will be thinking of ya!!

8mm thick thats bull.

My pat gardener one has 3mm mild and my front mount rack had 3mm as well... seems overkill.

Must be Athol..

Actually no. Athol is charging $140 to inspect EACH stage of welding where as this engineer is happy with liaising and photo evidence and one price upon final inspection.
Collins engineering Taree is who I have been dealing with. They seem very friendly and keen to help. Although I have been going to them with everything pretty much good to go thanks to McBean (again...)

Doing some wiring while its raining pick handles out side. Interesting what Holden do, the solar panel (seen on the paper) if removed I lose the ability to use the remote on the key i.e. I lose central locking
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/02/zuma4ype.jpg)

I am removing all the abs srs and aircon wiring to reduce the amount I need to hide under the dash. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/02/u8e2utes.jpg)
These are just the ones that plug into the abs module in the engine bay

I dont envy you with the wiring. I missed the brackets for the rack. They look the part. Keep going mate.

Regards

Wayne b

So my question is... Where are you going to put the solar panel? Lol
I still haven't decided.

What do you mean ??? you pulled your dash back two inches and have a tonne of room!!!

The thing is the panel is not for any lighting system. When it senses cloud it slows the fan in the aircon down and I am not running the commodore aircon. Trouble is that if I remove it my Central locking key wont work  >:(

Gotta figure out if the ABS/SRS wires are independent of other systems  ::)

Check your system though JB as your donor car was HSV and mine was an SS you may have OBD2 protocols. I am in old school OBD1 land  :'(

That's the thing... I just straight wired everything in. Except for some of the rear harness.
Keep the central locking... It's easy to install an works great. Then no key issues.

Exactly. I kept all the central locking mechs as well as all the power window motors and wire harness's for the doors!

I started planning the wiring and laid it all out. Pulled the door card off to have look at where I can put central locking mech and door wire harness.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/e9e4uryj.jpg)
Little tip for pulling the clips off the handles.... I used these little metal strips and it comes off in thirty seconds
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/nequba8u.jpg)

Found out why panel beaters hate VT's- there is no clip for the harness through the fire wall. So I had to feed it all (the engine bay fuses and lighting wires etc) through the firewall from inside the cabin. I used the area where the clutch master was as there was no real room anywhere else
This is from the inside to the left of the brake pedal assy
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/uva4a9a2.jpg)

Bugger all room beside brake booster but it fits. Going to wrap it properly and point it down to go under the booster later but hey it's a start
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/05/u4esy6un.jpg)

If you look at the servo for the central locking, there are 2 provisions for screws... Theses can be put on from either side. The gap in the door for the door handle to the door latch is where I mounted them for the van. Very easy... Drilled 2 holes and screwed them in. Then with the joiners from a universal central locking kit, I connected it to the original lock/unlock rod. Was pretty simple really.
Cheers
JB

Gotchya JB. Really it's the power window motor that'll be a challenge. Seeing I have winders and holes in the door cards I am not 100% sure I will continue with them.
I removed all the central locking from the VS I had too and marked every one really well. Boof head me forgot to do the same on the VT version and they are different actuators. Infact the VS drivers door was different to the other three and the VT central locking actuators are all the same. At least I spotted the power mirror wires so I know which are from a front door  ::)

You can buy switches that use your winder handles, remove the old winder and the switch goes in it's place, they come with a few different spindles so you can use your old winder handles. Push the handle down 1/4 inch glass goes down -up 1/4 inch glass goes up, I have them set aside to put into the FC when it's time.
Regards Jim

Yeah i have seen them just cant remeber where?

Not sure if there is an Australian supplier.

http://www.a1electric.com/spal.htm ($2)

Regards

Wayne b

Hey Wrangler do you have a photo?

Thanks Wayne b. The switches do not look large enough though - food for thought.

As Hoon said the other day, this forum is awsome for this kinda stuff. I would never have known about the switches...

http://www.lowridermagazine.com/tech/0210lrm_stealth_power_windows/


http://www.mustangmonthly.com/howto/mump_1202_how_to_install_a_stealth_power_window_conversion/viewall.html

The link Pete has posted shows the same switch I have. I got them as a package from Acedux Hotrods but I think Bluewire motorsport also sells them.
Jim

Yeah that first link looks the goods

Found another one
http://www.streetrodhq.com/detail/4188/Window_Crank_Electric_Square_Shaft.html

I have this from an HK  and think that the large single ones with a bezel may cover the hole but I don't have any.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/07/6emu5yra.jpg)

I guess if you are going the old look... Not sure what you are after.
I like the idea of the handle switches... Very descrete.

 i know whats going thru his head..  ;D


Can i adapt an elastic band from my stock handle to my commodore switch.....

Ba hahahahahahahahahahahahahahah

Hmmm can I?

Switch in the hole is just a thought but I really like the converted handles (or the rubber bands  ;D)

So I can't find any rubberbands tough enough for switches .....

Anyway quick update for today, installed engine and box to put weight on wheels and line up the rack properly. Mounts welded on now just have to drill the holes for the bolts.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/10/qusy8aqu.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/10/7ytepate.jpg)

So continuing with wiring and noticed this- the VT body control module cover is twice the size of the VS version but inside the board is the same size (although completely different). So to save room I put the VT board inside the VS plastic box. This then mounts up under dash and matches the key head to the security code in the computer
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/20/agy9ysez.jpg)

Also noticed the power window motor channel is curved for VT and was worried about the channel kink if I tried to straighten it. But no kinks so should work for doors. Realised the back door ones would be better for the front as it is straight up and down and scored another pair very cheap
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/20/a4yhe9ez.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/03/20/8ajajyhe.jpg)

Nes, Dont forget to either put the original sticker back onto the new casing or write the numbers from the old sticker onto the new case. This is so that if you have problems down the track and need to replace the BCM then you have the correct one. They are different depending what vehicle it is from and what options were on that particular vehicle. Also these are not being made anymore as Australian Arrow were the suppliers and no longer support Holdens. Also when programming new remotes to these vehicles either by a locksmith or Holden, you will need a security number. This can be extracted from the key head by a locksmith providing it is in working condition. Otherwise it can be extracted from the BCM providing we know what model vehicle it came from and also providing it is working. Best you start to write this info down for future reference. Any questions let me know.
Regards brett

Nes, a panel beater mate of mine said the best way to straighten the runner out was to put it between two bits of steel angle and clamp it in a vice. This will flatten it out without damage.
Regards Jim

All over it like a dirty rash mate, Infact I have from both VT commodores a full set of matching BCM's, computers and a pair of keys witht he correct barrels.
So far I am running EVERYTHING from the donor SS so I know it matches and "should" work.
I have also "chipped" the computer to run stage 4 performance and should be almost 200kw with just that. Once I get it running I'll show the other tuning program I have been using to do things like remove airbag warnings etc (not the one earlier in the post). That'll be a while off yet though.. ::)


Thanks for the tip fcwrangler... Problem I have now is the window channel is too close to the door skin and not enough room for the motor to sit in. More brain stuff required, or a beer and a wild thought.
FCHOON: rubber bands for windows too? :P :P :P

When you calm down about the rubber band comment send me a switch i have a ultra tight arse solution i think.

Might as well chip it to stage 10 old timer your gunna need it.. ;D

He also told me they used BA Falcon runners as the motor ir on a cable system, they put it in an EH without drama.
Regards Jim

I wont be able to beet you but it'll sound tuff!

AND I like the rubber band comment... I'm still getting a giggle

Did some wiring today and what a pain in the arse it is. I lengthened the wires to run the switches over in the glovebox
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/17/ujada5e5.jpg)
Prob not the best shot but only place I could fit the fuse panel is behind the wiper arm. I clears it pretty well. Not seen here but I mounted the BCM (computer in in small VS bcm plastic box) just to the right.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/17/asysuzy6.jpg)
Don't know how well you can see but there is a white plastic piece that mounts to the brake pedal that activates brake lights, the second one releases cruise control and is twice as long. Slightly cut under dash to fit it. It'll be covered when I install the gauge frame that goes around the steer column.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/17/e3emegu9.jpg)

It's good fun isn't it mate! LOL
 ;D ;D

Would have loved a sneaky beer but working nights this week so zero it is. Prob better that way, at least the soldering is neat.

Nes

Been there done that one.  ;D ;D

Agree wholeheartedly with JB.

Keep at it because you eventually do run out of wires to join

Cheers

Craig D

I have H4 lights now. Here is the mod to the light bucket. I made the round hole rectangle and fitted the headlight harness in. I'll seal the plug in now and can clip and unclip when needed.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/21/nahe5udy.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/21/putahajy.jpg)
At least now I'll be able to see at night!

nes what H4 lights are they and where from, as i've been thinking of getting a set, but unsure of what to get.

Just a standard 7" round mate
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/04/22/uqedynu7.jpg)
Although they are flatter than originals they work a treat

Good idea NES the originals don't exactly light up the road, do the blocks and wiring come with the lights or did you get them separately.
         Pedro

Pulled the Whole lot of wires out of the VT headlight!! Headlight is a sealed unit so just plug H4 and off ya go  ;D

I literally stripped from headlight bulb to tail light bulb.... Should see whats at the back

Cutting in on NES,s thread im doing his sump this arvo.

If anyones not real keen on doing their own it can be pretty straight forward.

First i was astonished at nes,s cutting skills it was extremelly straight very impressed. (almost makes me think someone else cut it)


Lay it on a nice flat table and i clamp a artline pen to a square and run it around guarenteed straight line.
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/013_zps11b9ffe5.jpg) ($2)

i cut an oversized piece of sheet put swages in (optional) then simply tacked in place . go around and grind it so its flush around all edges hit with a wire wheel so it gets the shavings out of the crack as it can add porosity to your weld.
I use tig and leave it un ground as its very strong but you can mig and grind up.
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/014_zps2a05f53d.jpg) ($2)
I just need to add the deep section tommorow and mod the pickup.
very enjoyable day in the shed. think i have spent 30 min on it so far.

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/017_zpsd22e2c0e.jpg) ($2)

Pete

Didnt get pan done today.

Pickup is finished.
You cant see but i welded a strip across  the bottom full length put a few stiches on it . Im paranoid about the length of it cracking or vibrating.

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/20130429_193350_zps94277783.jpg) ($2)

Looking pretty good Pete!  ;)

I added the pan still gotta fit the drain.
Put some swages in it to try pretty it up.
I really should have come and had a look so I could add some radiuses and tapered sections to get more volume. (and make it look like not just a box on your sump)
Still dont think its enough volume NES 3 litres in the pan. I think i might need to come have a look we sorted your grinding skills now we will work on your template skills ;D

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/15/e7asy6u2.jpg)

Pete

Goddammit I can't win

Pete, In the day they were making sumps for the V8 toranas with extensions on each side of the main reservoir for increased capacity. They didnt look too bad. Not sure if this would work for you because i dont know whats running past each side. Brett

Heres the chop shops one they did the other month ..
I would come sort it out just time is hard to find at the moment.
This is 5.0litre hr front commodore rear mount rack.

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/543184_404094919645120_1944896911_n_zpsc8e6f2a0.jpg) ($2)

Too tight....
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/05/15/9yvy4e4a.jpg)

Time to break out the angle grinder again ;) ;D ;D
            Pedro

I won't destroy Pete's work

Well it's been a while since I've really been able to attack the car. Been really busy with work blah blah blah. Anyway I bought a new toy... 6L V8 with only 60'000 k's on it.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/20/ujydy8ev.jpg)

Now I can be all tough with my fluff balls in the back

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/20/yty9y3un.jpg)

They are trying to quit smoking
(Tapatalk2 program can add stuff like Instagram including changing of style or colour of the photo)

Ps, the box in the back has slotted drilled rotors!

More pics coming

Are you trying to say that now your putting a 6L in the FC  8) 8) 8)

Might have to change the thread to ( Heart Transplant - adding 150 ) :D :D :D

hey can i please have the paint code off the blue commodore.

Too many changes already McBean you know that!!

Will do @fe350chev

276M  is the paint code @fe350chev

Thanks

Better than the Suzuki one? was that you? What's it for if not?

I am not sold on that colour on the commodore, yeah the suzuki colour is still a favourite or I could just make it original colours but do some front end mods. Still deciding what the heck to do. Lately I have liked some FE's in light yellowy colours so I dunno what to do.

I thought it was charcoal in colour until I parked it beside my Charcoal Grand Cherokee, it looks like it has blue through it in comparison.

Been working on the wiring tonight so working out what wires do what, cheat sheet courtesy of BrettF gave me half the story... I had to convert the wiring from the wiper motor to what colour wire it changed into at the VT harness and switch. Same thing done for the indicators although just marking them out at this stage as those will run up the steering column. As with the Cruise Control, but if I permanently enable it I will only need the set and accel buttons as the brake module will still disengage it. There is no VT instrument cluster so I would never see the green "active" light anyway.

See wire diagrams in the background. I love it, so much fun the wiring is
 >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:( >:(
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/22/a9e2ebu4.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/22/yme4emaq.jpg)


Hey here is a really random conversion..
http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67254566-VS-supercharged-ute/page6

That's the same wiper switch as I now have. I need to choose a colour soon.

Just had a look at that link  :-\ DUDE  ??? What am I supposed to be getting excited about  :D. A VS Commodore is as inspiring as a comatosed emo  :o. Is it the j motor. Gee they are long. Just kidding... Sort of.

Wiring... Hahahahahahahahaha.... 😄😄

Oh the pain!

Dunno fe350 not to inspire... I was um drunk again and stumbled on it and thought it was really random

You should always be drunk when you do wiring  :D :D :D, it helps make things work and u can't do much worse than being sober.

Gunna be funny you hit cruise control and the wipers come on lol

hahaaahahaha yeah and the hazards start when the low fuel warning on

NES

Hint !!! Take it one at a time ;) ;) ;) ;)

For me it was one of the biggest tasks. ::) ::) ::)

But one of the most rewarding  ;D ;D ;D

Keep the posts coming.

Cheers

Craig D

Thanks Craig, Not feeling overwhelmed yet....

I do need to figure out though if I join the Pink and the Grey/Green wires together if the result would mean the Cruise control would be permanently selected on?

Give Glenn M a call and see if be can burn you a disc with the diagrams on.

Already have all diagrams JB as seen in the background but want to override the cruise on off to permanently enable... Won't need the on switch then. Reducing the number of switches reqiur

Well to add to the wiring nightmare my real aircon unit arrived. Of the three models mini, compact and super I chose the compact.... They sent super. It is the same dimensions just 4" longer. It barely fits but it is so much more powerful than a compac model. (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/25/a5ebyna2.jpg)

Speaking of goodies my tailshaft arrived. Never seen one this colour and never asked for it but I really like it. 70mm tube is a larger diameter than bommodore too
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/25/aragadyg.jpg)

Is the air con electric or vacuum? Will you have enough room for a Glovebox? Tailshaft does look cool in the grey.

Regards

Wayne b

Electric mate. Glovebox..... Watch this space, there is a plan. Actually a few pages back you can see it with stereo on left and buttons to the right. May have to move some though

I'm using the same air con (super) i found there's plenty of room in an ek ( no glove box tho) it's worth the lose of space

Whats the point of a glovebox then? I will still manage to have my stereo in there  :P

An important milestone, I put power to the system and the security is on. Turn key and red light stops!!! So I must have matching BCM and key head.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/29/yheryhy7.jpg)
The super size aircon has to sit low. I was meant to get the compact but I can squeeze this in.  Wife not impressed by how low it sits but I can close the glovebox lid and fit stereo with all ducts. I'll have to cover it somehow.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/29/e7ysuzys.jpg)
Will trim tags off of course.

I also said I had new rotors and here they are!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/29/5ehudese.jpg)
Rear are the same

Gotta be really careful with what I put where, here are the plugs for the door looms. The left is front passenger and middle is drivers door. Right is rear door. The number of pins is more in the front so driver can operate mirrors, mirror switch and still have power to window when child lock for windows is on. They all look identical except for that
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/29/uzagevej.jpg)

Gotta be really careful with what I put where, here are the plugs for the door looms. The left is front passenger and middle is drivers door. Right is rear door. The number of pins is more in the front so driver can operate mirrors, mirror switch and still have power to window when child lock for windows is on. They all look identical except for that
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/29/uzagevej.jpg)

I think your stuttering. ha ha. Sent you a PM mate regarding your question. regards brett

Goddamit I don't know why my phone posted that twice  ???

Don't blame the phone  :P

tapatalk did it the other day for me thought it hadnt posted i hit it again and doubled up.
I modified it before it ran out of time.

The super size aircon has to sit low. I was meant to get the compact but I can squeeze this in.  Wife not impressed by how low it sits but I can close the glovebox lid and fit stereo with all ducts. I'll have to cover it somehow.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/06/29/e7ysuzys.jpg)

Maybe you a chord along the front and hang a curtain  on  it

You're doing a bloody good job with that wiring NES, it all just looks like spaghetti to me.
  Pedro

Thanks pedro, trying to get the fc light switch to work on the VT wiring... Few problems but here are H4 bulbs lit! (http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/14/8ezybuse.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/14/y8yduvum.jpg)

Ps battery won't be installed there!

I see the light..

Bloody spag Bol! Wiring is a good thing to do when you already are feeling miserable

Ok so I worked out where I was going wrong with the wiring, I joined the white/black wires from the indicator stalk to be a continuous circuit and on the vt headlight switch and joined the grey and brown/blue wires to permanently have the dash lights on. I want the parkers to come on with the headlights and then the high beam when the chrome stalk is pulled out to its second stage. I used the dark blue/yellow high beam wire from the indicator stalk to activate the high beam.  Position 2 with white/black standard beams and position 3 with blue/yellow high beam.

So far the head light and the high beam selection is perfect.

Problem one: as this is an SS the manual has no ident for wiring, as in has guide for exec then berlina then calais and states the light blue wire (in photo not connected) is parkers for exec but fog lamp for berlina and calais. The original car had fog lamps but I can't see where another dedicated park lamp wire is so when I connect this to the headlight to activate parkers (the parkers activate) but the indicators come on solid and cut the dash lights out as per photo.

Problem two: there is a black/green wire that is not in the manual so I have no idea what it is for BUT, the manual states there should be a grey/red wire and there is no wire here in that colour. All the black/green wires are usually Earth.

Turns out through all my stuffing around the Earth above the Drivers tail light was not Earthing properly  ;)


SO now I have a VT headlight switch converted to an FC  8)

Oh and the photo
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/28/uzanu7a7.jpg)
Now all indicators / hazards work correctly too!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

How long have you been on the wiring Nes?

Starting to know the old girl very well now...

Small steps JB. Been absolutely flogged by the bosses at work. There is a reason they owe me 45 days of leave..... I can't get any time for the old girl and its usually when I am tires and don't have the mental power to go over it all quickly - Beer doesn't help either

Wasn't actually stirring you...for a change lol... Took me 4 months and I still have gremlins to fix when/if it ever comes back from paint...

Wiring is certainly not the most fun thing to do Nes I'm glad mine was a little simpler you look like your doing a great job hope you are taking notes for helping others later.

Regards
Neil H

hahaha I didn't take it as that but I do cop a beating on the forum  ;D. All good with pretty thick skin!
Next the light switch  ??? Im sure I've done that already

There were these guys once....in the 80's.....who successfully got rid of Gremlins from memory  ::), but I was young at the time and can't remember the name of the place?  ???

I modified the tail lights to accept the VT sockets, simply filed the metal away so it would accept the tabs from VT sockets.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/30/u5a8uqut.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/30/8umeqysa.jpg)

Really faded orange lens  but will get a clear ones later as running orange bulbs
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/30/epyma9u4.jpg)

And working!!!! ;D ;D ;D (so good I framed it)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/07/30/yve3u2ur.jpg)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

Seems a bit too easy, surely there was a harder way than that  ??? ??? ??? :P :P :P

That will have to go in the great idea,s page. Very cool. Some of the best idea,s are the simple ones.

Regards Wayne b

Didnt realise your car was late 59 with the full strips running thru.


Lights look good ..

Pete

 ;D

See how yours has Holden written on the lense, mine look the same with stripes right through but no part number or the writing on the lens. Should I assume that they are aftermarket?

Got no freakin idea mate. I just want to ditch the indicator lens for clear ones as the red ones are ok

NES

Keep up the good work.
I get what you mean when your brain fails at the end of the day ??? ???
I am watching with interest and anticipation. ;D ;D

Cheers

Craig D

Yes Holden on the taillight means genuine, no Holden means repro

Ken

Bloody great idea NES, you just solved my problem of not having enough double filament bulb holders,  8) 8) I think i have a couple of original clear/opaque indicator lenses you can have if you want as i'm running orange ones.
   Pedro

Hey if you message Pete (FCRB26) , i think he has some pink ones,.......oh hang on, he might wanna use them for that secret project of his  :D :D :D

BAHAHAHAHAHAHAHHA

You got smashed Pete. I love good banter.

Hey Pedro I will have to take you up on your offer mate, really appreciated.
Bloody stoked they are original too.

No worries i'll check in the morning.
  Pedro

NES I would really recommend toying around a bit with the front bumper. Some dude recently suggested I google search to get me some more ideas, but I can't remember what it was. Do you have the link handy? ??? ??? ???

Nah just google "Pete" and you come up with all sorts of umm Interesting stuff

Don't you love me anymore.

you have done all his welding and now you can bugger off..

Allright everyone stop teasing Pete, McBeans turn!! :P

@FCRB26 He is much more than my welding Guru. He gives me shit to my face too

Sorry NES i should have checked before i opened my big mouth, I knew i had a few but all of them are cracked/crazed.

(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk227/Pedrosme/SAM_0550.jpg) ($2)

(http://i281.photobucket.com/albums/kk227/Pedrosme/SAM_0552.jpg) ($2)

This is the best one.
   Pedro

No worries mate the thought counted!

Pedster I actually have a broken chrome surround on one. Can I get one off you.

Too easy mate just pm me your address and i'll send you one down, are you going to get them rechromed or were you looking for one you could run as is.
   Pedro

I'll probably rechrome myself. How many can you get rid of, I'd rather grab 2.  I'll pm to discuss. I could do a swap or cash or "favours". Pete knows all about favours.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/07/unupy8um.jpg)
Started the install of the fuel lines today, ran the steel one for the brakes after it and then wished I had done the fuel lines in steel as well. I thought it would have been harder to bend...

I think you might have to run metal fuel lines under the car to get it engineered.
ACE  8)

 :-X

Ringing the engineer today....
Thanks for heads up pete

Should have left stock line for return or just run 2 like I sent you they have clamps for the line as well also they have hard line to flexible adaptors order a aeroflow catalouge from rocket there free.

Nah not that dirty old line

Dirty old line for a dirty old v8  :D

Thats not nice Pete. It's these dirty old V8's that have kept the motor industry and hotrodders going all these years. (haha).Hope you and JB get back to it shortly. Miss my fix but keeping an eye on these up and coming projects likes ness's.
Regards Brett

Couldn't get a hold of the engineer as he was stuck on a yacht in Spain somewhere. Really wasn't happy with the fuel lines so I did the righty and bought line.

i had to do steal on one of my projects, and i think max 18" was the allowance for hose (it was a none efi)
with efi you'll need to use efi ratted hose
but def check with your engineer
youll also have to put them a set distance from exhaust or use shields where you can't
again something youll need to confirm 

I was fishing
And got  a bite from the wrong fish lol

Next week hopefully ill do something

All good Pete. Not sure who you were baiting for but have an idea. Ness, pity your not in melb mate i bought a pipe bender that i could have lent you. brett

nes i used these they keep the pipes off the body and are a nice tight fit
(http://i1077.photobucket.com/albums/w469/michaeljohn1234m/canon13019.jpg) ($2)

Hi Michaeljohn1234m, where did you get those if you don't mind me asking?
Cheers Ole

There just stauff clamps( well there the ones I like)
The stauff come in group numbers and in each group a std and heavy duty, in single to triple and then you stack them if you want more, you can also get them with 2 different sizes.
They even do them in a flat finish I side to hole hose I steed of ribbed for tube or pipe

yes, there a few types, i got mine from Protec. west gosford. try any hydraulic place,i used mine without the metal top covers

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/pygy9abe.jpg)
Well tapatalk hasn't been able to upload but here is the pipe I bought.

Thanks for the offer @Brettf but look what I have here
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/esarugum.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/vyha8ete.jpg)

Neat idea @MichaelJohn1234m might look into that. Cheers

All good mate. Have fun. Brett

NES I believe fuel lines, like brake lnes must be double flared, not single flared. The kit you have shown is a single flare kit.

Ken

in the photo there's a little black thing. thats the double flare er i think

Hi ken, I believe the flare types you are talking about  are in my crude drawing.
I(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/4umy7eru.jpg)
Here is no fare and the flare that I have done and is identical to the original ones
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/10/uhu2enu5.jpg)

if you want you can do no flare (metric) insteed of jic
and a 3/8 steal tube is ratted for 3500psi up  at 4:1 working pressure with a single flare jic fittings
so there will be no problems there,
ive never had an issue with single flare on fuel lines

If u had of drawn a female massage device, it may have looked more like s flared pipe

NES

Are you saying you brake line flares are like the first line in the photo?

I notice on some callipers I removed from a VS diff have a similar flare.

The VN callipers are your normal double flare.

When making the flare ensure the end is square and there is no lip on the inside of the pipe.

The shape you have achieved is the one I used for all my fuel lines. I actually drilled it a little larger.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Craig D

of the two pipes one is flared and one is not, although I look at it now and its a sh!t cut. All the brake lines I have on the VT and VS calliper have used this flare so I know it fits. I'll be doing a similar flar on the fuel line although it'll be more so when the clamp is on it it wont slide off.

Square she will be! I quickly did this flare to show what I was doing.

I ripped out the rubber ones and started these ones. I chose rivets with a P type clip. I'll run the thicker fuel lines below.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/13/pububury.jpg)

 ;)

That looks better ;) ;)

Watch this space  ;)

Im re cutting them now so theres a bit more meat where the screw goes thru  and ill countersink them.


Also thinking they may be better from 20mm nylon or something like that.

They were metal on metal back in the day as long as there snug as a bug they will be right.

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/1376601750631_zpsf86429f6.jpg) ($2)

I gotta woody
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

No NES, he is using nylon or stainless by the look of them...  :P

I know why he has a woody going by the websites he sent me yesty.. :D

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/20130816_110206_zps4b89442b.jpg) ($2)

(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad278/fchoon/20130816_111043_zps2653d1a8.jpg) ($2)

Thats awkward I thought we were texting the Lionel Ritchie Beer commercial?
http://www.smh.com.au/entertainment/lionel-richies-cash-splash-in-beer-commercial-20130627-2oyvo.html

Hey where's the "Mallaby" Trademark. Someone might steal it.

Tip.... New Tap King holds ten beers and if administered in one sitting you get a FREE hangover.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/e9enebeq.jpg)

Nes I've seen them in the shops. How are they?

Regards Wayne b

Bit gymicky but still good I think. Cheaper to buy a carton but I like a cold beer glass. It pushes the last drop out too so no wastage (except down my chin onto my shirt!)

I know I keep chopping and changing (pun intended ) but I'm back on the diff. Had to have axles re straightened and shortened as the dickhead that did it pretty much failed. The guy is Promac at Cardiff and has shut down. If I every catch him ill re arrange his nose. It has angered me to no end and cost me a lot to fix. He even set the axles up for drum brakes and its clearly a disc brake end.
Here is how much I had to trim
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/rytuzeqe.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/2u6yta4a.jpg)
New bearings for discs on.
This is apparently out of an 81 Bronco
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/mema7a3y.jpg)

With a drum brake bearing this bit in here 'walked' out 2.4mm
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/dygadytu.jpg)

These are the rotors I'm using and noticed the slots are directional
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/una3yzuz.jpg)

Hope they on the right way!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/ymebatuv.jpg)

Here's my how to double flare guide
First make sure you get a nice square cut on the end with a pipe cutter
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/za7upaqa.jpg)

Slide through the clamp so that the pipe hangs out the same length as the base of the flare bit
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/utasujy5.jpg)

Put the flare bit in
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/py6uqu3e.jpg)

Twist to drive the flare bit down
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/ny6yseva.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/emeza8er.jpg)

Remove pipe to show flare. Just remember to put the nut on prior unlike my mistake!!! >:(
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/guguqaha.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/17/yjutapu6.jpg)

Very Good. That is all  ;)

 :o :P :)

Thanks for all the emoticons, if only I had some sort of clamp in my possession to do the lines along the body ???

There sitting here home after 1.

So in the end your axles probablly werent too long he just used the wrong bearings? so the new bearings would have spaced them back out 3 to 4 mm.

No it's the black bit at the end that's skinnier and doesn't force the axle in.

Hey NES

To make it even better remove the burr from the inner side of the cut end and file the end square.

Looking good though, and yes don't forget the flare nut  ??? ??? ???

Regards

Craig D

Smashing out the photos now... Did the brake lines for the diff
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/edugymap.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/erytunab.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/buvatete.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/pery6eqe.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/18/yze2e2aj.jpg)

Thanks for the photos. I'm currently out of action. Got ct scan back for my back the other day. Turns out I have degenerative spinal disease, osteo and the bottom 4 disks are bulging. I only went in there thinking my hip was crook lol. It's not an injury. I was just carrying around the engine block the other day no probs.

No worries Deano. I screwed my back ten years ago L4 L5 discs and had seven months of crap physio. After I spent three weeks at a chiropractor I was running!

All new rubbers for the diff and the bloody hangers are too short thanks to a taller diff (standard ;)) saddle
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/20/u8a3aser.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/20/udemevad.jpg)

Just wondering if those mounting brackets on the backing plates are going to scrape the inner guards or have you already ollowed for that. I didn't look all the way through the photos carefully but all the commodore rear ends I've put in I had to relocate those brackets so the hoses wouldn't shear off with suspension travel. Just think its worth a look. Cheers

What mounting brackets are you talking about ???

My backing plates and hoses clear .
Mines late model vs?

Same
Same

Yeah Physio isn't as good as Chiro from Mum's point of view too and she has this disease severely. The shed is progressing and the frame should be completed tomoz.

Hahaha you must be excited, seen that on three different posts now  8)

My backing plates and brackets are wholly contained within the rim
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/21/udajanen.jpg)

Re doing the fuel and brake lines is a real bitch to do but thanks to FCRB26's custom fuel line clamps its looking pretty
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/22/nate7yde.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/22/bevyhyse.jpg)

Noice  ;D ;D ;D

Thanks Craig.
Just saw the bottom of the last pic and the pipe is scewed off as I was still going on the backend of it and this was a progress shot. The first line is easy - trying to match the others is difficult

NES

as long as you're happy.

At the end of the day unless your showing underneath this would no doubt be sufficient.

BTW went to a show and shine on the weekend which was a part of the Leyburn sprints and took out Car of the Event. Great surprise and very unexpected as I didn't even clean it other than chamois the bugs off the windscreen and front of the car. Many were intrigued how it all fitted in under the bonnet.

Cheers

Craig D

Whoa Craig!  Nice!!!

Nice lines and install NES.


Where did you get the tube?  is it aluminium or steel?

Cheers

Ed

Thanks ED. It's steel and a pain in the abdominals, laying under the car in a half situp hurts after two hours! I tried to bend it while off the car but was doing a crap job. The pipe bender I have kinked the larger tube as soon as it got passed 70deg so my hands are killing me from bending by hand >:( BUT it is coming up good and the Clamps Pete (FCRB26) made are gold (well aluminium but awesome bits now added to his catalogue).
I got the lines from First choice Brakes at Cardiff in Newcastle. They call it "Bundy line" and about $40 for a 6m length of 3/16 brake line (thinner one). Think I paid about $60 for the the larger one but I had all the fittings and P clips as well.

Well I wanted to clear up the flare definitions. I am doing SINGLE flares. Picture shows ball shape is a single flare that Holden use and right is a double flare. The double flare is just a single flare that has been pushed in. Ps arrows are for Pete
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/24/e4a4ysem.jpg)

I found a problem with the brake line from the calipers, they fowl on the crossmember. I haven't cleaned it yet so no comments on the dirt.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/eme9ejah.jpg)
I bought these to get around it as they didn't swing out as far
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/y5y3e8ut.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/ga8e5u5u.jpg)
Will need a quick touch up paint.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/25/5e2ymuju.jpg)
I'm gunna pull the front end out soon to paint it up...

so are you going to tell us what the new brake hoses are off? also at full lock will the bolt on the caliper holding on the hose hit the Xmember?

They're off the VT as standard with a different fitting- nothing special. Unfortunately the bolt does fowl on the lip of the crossmember.

so you got a new end fitted?
mine is the same as yours and the bolt hits but thats only with on weight on it, i have not got my steering on yet, will the steering get that far on full lock that it hits?

Unknown. No weight right now. Engine out
Out

Oh the joys of modification  :P

Best to take your time and get those brake lines right. Twenty years ago in a rush to get to a timber yard, across two lanes of traffic and into a driveway with a speed bump sheared off a brake line on a front calliper and crashed into a bark chipped garden bed throwing garden bed all over the yard bosses office window from where he was watching in horror . My FC van stopped just short of the wall. The flexible line connection caught the spring tower lip just like you are finding and not a nice result. Even if you have to move the steering stops or do a  travel and lock test with the coils removed and find you have to remove some of the lip of the spring tower its best to get it sorted now. Like others I'm watching with interest. Cheers.

Bugger me!

I intend on using the original mount for the house forward and above of the tower on the engine bay wall and without the engine in does not hit the tower  ;) (yet)

You will eventually stop even if you stuff it all up.....eventually, i can guarantee it......  :D :D :D :-\ :-\ :-\ :-X :-X :-X

Dam you and your hex Deano.
I decided to throw the diff and the engine in to see what the ride height would be and to check the brake lines... Never got that far as I got way to excited over having it on four wheels!!!
Won't sit as low as FCRB26 but-
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/31/a7yjedyb.jpg)

I love these wheels (yes I know there is only two nuts on the studs)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/31/ydyzu5uv.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/31/u5evebab.jpg)

And the front wheels don't hit the guard either
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/31/are8ava3.jpg)

Initial test fit has the inside rear tyre walls almost touching the wheel well so may have to tub slightly but the tail shaft sits out 25mm. Not sure how much they are meant to sit out for travel though
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/08/31/ysygunuq.jpg)

great to see it on all wheels nes i think 25mm is fine as they need a little travel play.nice wheels had them on a few cars (the one set that is ) hows the track width front and back

I know I jump around a bit but I leave the wiring then go back to it fresh. This plug goes into the back of the VT instrument cluster  (this is the complete VT series one OBD1 harness) and trying to convert it all to look FC. I marked out the indicator inputs (light blue is right indicator) and coincidence the FC wire is same colour!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/01/ezy7u6a6.jpg)

I took the FC indicator bulb and joined the wires and earthed the bulb
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/01/4e4e6uva.jpg)

Indicated right and....
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/01/ja6y7y7a.jpg)

No way I thought it would be that easy!

That's a good win, hope everything else falls into place like that.

Regards

Wayne b

I will put a correction on the wiring... Two types of blue and dark blue VT and light blue FC together indicate right
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/01/vatahume.jpg)

looking good
how high are you at the sills im at 5.5" (2" all round well i think it is) and i with it was about 1" lower, but with air assist and some major mods i dont see it being very drivable

Huh? You saying mine will be a pig to drive? Not to sure what you mean there.

When I put the commodore harness in my 48 Vauxhall I found it quite difficult to start working on the wiring then stop and start again. It took me forever to understand what I'd done the day before , so good luck with that.

I think we should all refrain posting when there's a full moon  :D

Well I have NFI  ??? about what's going on here. Not offended in anyway by the way (prob cause I have no idea) but...

@John253a - I expect it to be pretty good to drive with upgrades to steering rack and diff position equalling the ride height of the front (with extra engine weight forcing it down) and pull up really well with the VS Calipers and drilled rotors (with VT Booster/master)

@hsv-001 - I can't do wiring for too long as the more you drink and well, just jokes actually I am forced into doing little bits here and there with such a busy schedule. I do a bit late at night then think about it in bed and what the next step could be. Was only by chance I thought to use the VT instrument cluster signal wires for Fc indicator bulbs.
I got in the shit  >:( for brining a door into my bedroom to work on the door loom! ;)

@fe350chev - I got nothing ???

I didn't use all the commodore loom as the Vauxhall doesn't have windows or locks[no central locking]. I just named every wire from the diagrams in the Gregory's manual and the circuit on the back of the dash. Then with a @#$% load of shrink tube and soldiering iron connected every wire that I needed. because its auto I used the VS speedo. Your on the home stretch now so here is an idea, use a dial up thermostat sender that goes in your top radiator hose wired into your fan and a three way light up toggle switch and a lower temp. thermostat. This way the toggle switch will light up when you turn it on ,it will light up when the extra thermostat turns your fan on and it will light up when the computer turns the thermo fan on If I can be of any help just ask .  Cheers

Thanks for the offer hsv-001. There is a lot that I have done at the moment which can't have photos posted until I iron out some bugs.
At the moment I can turn the key and I hear the fuel pump start and all accessoroies on and I can hear the starter relay click but the starter motor does not engage for some reason, yes its in Park. I have looked everywhere for an Earth I may have missed and made sure I have matching BCM to key (as the security disengages when central lock activated) (oops, may or may not have central locking in the front already) and checked all the fuses and relays both under dash and engine bay.

I may or may not have the diff in...

I think this happened with the panel van... The the rear wiring harness for an earth to the taillights... Small round connector to fit a screw through it.
Either that try unlocking the doors via the key before trying to start the engine.. Had that happen too.
Nothing worse than trying to start it and nothing... Took me 6 hours to get the ute going.

Be very carefull at this stage. The same thing happened to me and like an idiot I climbed under and jumped the starter with a screwdriver and because the computer sets everything the car started and ran . I was very lucky the linkages were correct and the handbrake was on. I think my problem was as simple as a relay not earthing.

Back on the wiring, I went back to the wipers (from page 13) and now have two speeds! And if  I push button in it activates wipers and washer pump.
Thanks again Brett
This is the wire combo for Brett f switch on VT series one loom
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/10/ze9y8yzu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/10/ga7aduqy.jpg)

With that wiper switch. Its the same as mine. What I did was get an old perished knob and remove the chrome trim off it .Then I ground the after market switch knob down to fit inside the chrome trim with some super glue. This makes the new switch look original only difference is the washer works when you push on it. Just an idea if you want to try it.

Sorry I forgot to say that if you do it, be careful with the super glue and you will be able to keep the wiper logo inside the chrome trim.[looks trick]I spilt glue on mine and wiped the logo off.

Good Idea, Do you have a photo? I am happy with the knob and don't think it look too out of place, although an original looking knob sounds better.

You really really should think before writing.  :D

Is the knob in front of the wheel or behind it?

Hahahahahah
It'll be mounted in the instrument cluster

Ok here is the idea[photos]

(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a589/hsv-001/SAM_0014_zpseaecb57e.jpg) ($2)

(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a589/hsv-001/SAM_0015_zps8bc91896.jpg) ($2)

(http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a589/hsv-001/SAM_0013_zps3a5ee3f7.jpg) ($2)

Is that the Cole Hersee switch Nes, I tried using a Hr one, the park worked but it shorted out in the dash as it is a negative setup, the one i got from the local auto sparky won't park so i ended up sending away for the Cole Hersee 75228-03 switch as Brett said on his post, should be here soon so i'll find out if that works or not.
   Pedro

NFI mate. Actually I never thought of checking to see if it parked. I don't remember hearing a delay in the motor stopping which would indicate that.

Although I am waiting on a magical peice of metal from Pete  :P that would allow me to connect the arms to the motor.....

bugger keep forgetting bout them.

Pedro, Will work. Others have it. Regards brett

That mean i wired it wrong?

Ness, what i meant was the switch works both speeds and parks if used with the commo motor.
Brett

Brett is correct . You will find most of the early wiper motors including the holden [delco ,preslite] switch the earth. That is why they have a copper or brass earth strap from the motor to the firewall. The dash switch simply switches the earth when the parking plate inside the motor cannot earth because the wipers are at the end of their stroke. Your best option is to get a late model aftermarket switch[ EZ wiring or similar] ,looks like the one I used ,modify the knob and fit the holden bezel around it ,use Bretts wiring diagram on the commodore motor [I used a Datsun preslite motor .A lot of the jap stuff assembled in Australia in the 80's used similar motor] and it will have 2 speeds and park . Like I said before I'm using commodore harnesses in both hotrods and might be able to help with some of these questions.

OK gurus what about 54-57 chev or something along those lines can we get something from the states.



https://www.google.com.au/search?q=57+chevy+wiper+switch&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=pOY4Up6lHsXXkgX0rYGYBQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1680&bih=985&dpr=1#q=54+chevy+repro+wiper+switch&tbm=isch

Pete you've lost me. If im not wrong the coles hersee switch is from the states. What is your question.
Brett

Sorry i know what im on about. :D

Just thought 54 chev has the same speedo and similar guages to the fc was wondering if a wiper switch looked the same as the fc

the switch looks the same as what everyone else is using.


(and im not drunk like NES)

Brett is it correct to think that H.E.L.P. is high, low [speeds] earth and park.The W is the washer and the B is the power? I'm sure that the way I did mine. Been a few years though.

Sorry Pete. Just didn't know what you were asking. All makes sense now mate. regards Brett

Im In my own little world most of the time.


I need a think to text application.

Pete

It's been a while since I have had an update as I have been working - alot. Anyway whilst wiring I tried to turn the engine over and got nothing. I realised the relay under the dash was clicking butt he relay in the engine bay was not forwarding the signal to the starter motor. Turns out the security was overriding it and so I need to go and get the PCM matched to the BCM so it'll run. That's a little way off but I have been self teaching the programming side of the VT series stuff and soon should be able to reset air bags and warnings etc.
SO - at the moment the final engine fit (before removal and bay paint) it turns and I at least know I have wired (Most) of it in properly).  Standard power already modded to match that of standard HSV in same model too hence the Engine covers. They are in pretty crap condition so I have no hesitation in colour matching it to the red on the car.
Oh and I have one power window fitted (really cheap) but you will never guess what car I used for the motor part. Fits really well too!

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/suhasu5y.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/09/29/ahuzyre9.jpg)

Dam I can't upload video on tapatalk

looking good nes, sounds like your almost there.are the window motors out of a commodore

Nope but they line up really well!

I have decided to remove VATS (if you know what I mean) and use a hidden kill switch to override start. I have re wired the VT ignition to the FC barrel so the car starts with an FC key so I don't need to find another spot for the VT key barrel and the central lock still works from the VT key fob. So now the key works and the headlight switch works with one pull = lights / Parkers and second pull = high beam. The indicators work and now the dash lights are always on.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/05/hu9emuzy.jpg)

Continuing the wiring I have put in a relay to activate the cruise control when the car starts! (Big thanks to a mate of mine for suggesting the method) This negates the need for a switch as it is always on. So for cruise control I only need one switch now to "set" and that's the lot for cruise!

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/05/u3azujun.jpg)

Although I am redoing it all to run off the FC cluster I still have the VT cluster connected to show I am doing it right and every time I hit the ignition the cruise light comes on

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/05/ve8ydebu.jpg)

Might need to put some booster in that fuel... Been in the tank for a while lol...
Great work on the wiring!!!

I'm just wondering ,will you have a bank of lights somewhere else on the dash. I guess if you wire everything to the fc cluster you can run an aftermarket tacho. Gen ,oil ,temp,fuel,high beam and indicators are taken care of so the only concerns I can see is the engine warning light and maybe consider a engine fan light [this would be more useful in conjunction with a temp. gauge].When I wired v6 vs in my Vauxhall I used the vs speedo temp and fuel gauge. Indicators went to aftermarket hotrod, screw to the column unit ,illumination stayed but all the other dash lights are separate. As I am soon to commence wiring my latest project I watch your progress closely so please don't skip over anything. I'm taking notes and your posts are greatly appreciated. 

Thats the Fuel pump laying on its side on the ground  ;D


You know me HSV 001 - I have something in the works and it'll blow your mind. Can't come clean yet (like the power window motors) as its a custom production and in testing but it does have something to do with tuning (being able to tune to a 98 or 95 fuel or tuning for larger injectors ;) for example) and will cover everything you stated and a shitload more!!
I'm getting to know VT Wiring inside out including what BCM's can and can't do to specific cars. I was lucky in the fact the SS had power windows and can run them as well as the cruise auto on as most can't.
Flick me a PM with the model V6 etc and I can point you in the right direction.

BTW NES your progress reports are looking good.
I didn't go to the level you have but I can openly admit I found the wiring the most challenging of the project.

Well done and keep the updates coming.

Cheers

Craig D

Best is yet to come.... ;)

Can't wait ;)

nes can you tell me where that place is to get speedo's recalibrated as I need to get my fuel sender done it's a vs commodore and classic instruments need 0-30 ohms the vs one is a lot more than that help much appreciated

Will pm you mate but this might help
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/11/9uze3ude.jpg)

Sneaky update... I own a Tech2 now so I can clear airbag faults, match BCMs to PCMs and code new keys etc. mooowahahahaha
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/14/9eny5e6e.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/10/14/a9uzyted.jpg)
Now be gone with you!

That was in my VZ Crewman

thats a toy I've always wanted.

NES
Are you sure your not a RADTECH in disguise ;) ;) :)

Cheers

Craig

Ha- those boys have no idea what I'm doing!!

Where did you steal that from?
Get 2 by chance!  :-*

Maybe, whats your postal address?  ;D

No. After weeks of searching I have come up with these.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/gebypa7u.jpg)

They have the motor and wires mounted from one end and the rail is quite straight and perfect for straight glass FC.
This is my back back installed, only one tek screw on the rail as I was looking at how well it went up and down. Will use a more robust system to finish but these motors are well suited I think.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/a2aqyzuz.jpg)

And my manual window winder becomes a switch
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/8azunutu.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/e5aju9u3.jpg)

With my door loom installed the central locks work(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/zaje2equ.jpg)

The front wires run along the door hinge and don't pinch. There is a connector in there too so I can remove the door if required (good for when I get round to cleaning up the paint in this area)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/jy4ynu8y.jpg)

I have had a little digital box made up to show what gear its in and a cycle menu to show speed, RPM, fuel flow, engine temp etc using the turn knob (which can also dim the display) The display is 40mm x 70mm in size and reads all the OBD information from the vehicle. I have also had an engine check light wire made to run off it so it'll tell me if something is about to blow up!!
The plan is to have it on a stiff hinge that'll swing up out of the way under the dash so I can't see it (to look original) but then swing it down when I need it.

As a bonus it also acts as a data logger so I can log the information during driving then upload it to the laptop. I can see the information it pulls up and then reprogram the car to smooth out things like fuel spikes or flat spots or even tune it to say a 98 octane fuel.
This can be done after a new exhaust system or something of that nature too.

This is the screen when I start the car
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/7y2u7a7y.jpg)

The 0 in the shifter position is because it is hooked up to the laptop...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/10/enarezy7.jpg)

NES

About time you posted an update.

Was starting to think there was no progress. ::)  ::)

BTW that window switch will look cool.

Cheers

Craig D

Same switches that I have for mine, what are the  winders out of ? looks a lot simpler that the ones I've got for mine.
Jim

Dam I thought I was pioneering  :'(

Ok Ok so I'll cough up. They are out of '96 - early'97 Sonata. I think the same style are in the Mercedes Work van?

Anyway they are fairly easy to fit. I did try the bommodore ones and even AU Falcon motors which were a b!tch to try and fit

Someone once told me about them...

I don't know who would have told you that 18 days and 5hours ago?

Some pretty technical stuff there NES, the window winder for a switch is a great idea.  8)
   Pedro

Speechless.....who said the impossible isn't possible!

Not much happening. Decided to swap the alternator and air con compressor and raise them. This way the aircon lines will be short and straight to the unit behind the fire wall.

Template for the alternator done. Clears the bay but I'm concerned about the space to the radiator. Davies Craig are the thinnest fan I could find at 51mm
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/12/28/yte8apev.jpg)

I now have a working fuel gauge!!!
I am running a VS commodore fuel pump on VT wires trying to match an FC gauge.
In the table below there is a match to early commodore gauges...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/zu2a9a5a.jpg)


So I grabbed a VH commodore fuel gauge and modified (cut) it.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/vy4a2ebe.jpg)


It fit in the original gauge frame after shaving the holes to retain it properly.

This is a crap one I used as a test.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/y4e2e5u9.jpg)

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/a8a6yhev.jpg)

Then I used the real one
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/yhemude7.jpg)

And modified the original backing plate to go on the VH gauge.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/02/e3u8e3ah.jpg)

Don't know if the needles can be swapped yet. ... Didn't look at the needle till I sealed it all up.

That's clever NES.

Regrds

Wayne b

That's cool , the way you have kept the old glass with the dodgy lettering . People who have not done this conversion probably wouldn't appreciate that the reason you need to do this is that the commodore electrics wont work the old Holden gauge . I looked at this when I did commodore into Vauxhall some 4 years ago and still have a few spare gauges on the shelf. I never found a workshop manual that explained that the tiny little icon in the middle of the dash wiring diagram was a resistor. I still have a commodore sender unit in a fe-ek sedan tank to accommodate  the vs instruments . With no baffles its a little to busy to give a correct reading  . I would love to get down your way and see this project when you have it finished .Cheers Haydn

Looks great.
I got nemesis in newcastle to re calibrate a VDO sender to my guage $87 with sender for the tank.
Mines needed for a custom tank where as people using commodore tanks this is a easier fix.


Pete

So all I saved was 80 bucks ???

Pretty much LOL

Probablly only saved your self $20 as mine came with the sender and you allready have the commodore one  ;D
so all they have to calibrate is the guage....

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/03/bajujute.jpg)

Good work NES.

Looks good.

Cheers
Craig D

Cheers mate


Here's my cheat guide to the power window switch
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/18/uzubu8a5.jpg)

New stiffened springs arrived but look waaaaaay too low
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/30/nu8y2yma.jpg)

Nes where did you get them and how much. as i'm about to start looking

Yup, they are so low they are touching the ground!

Waaaaaaay too low
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/01/31/ne4u2epe.jpg)

Looks about right  8) 8)

I suspect you have to jack under the body not the axle to get those wheels off . Looks good though .Cheers Haydn

I might be missing something here, aren't the springs meant to be bent to give the proper ride hight?. A couple of options would be to put the housing under the springs or use extended rear shackles to lift it up. I have some spare springs here if you want to use them as samples to have the springs done again.
Jim

I told em 48" which I was told was the OFF car length originally  :'( I'm getting them pulled in so that it will lift it 3". Trouble is the custom Diff mounts Pete made up are also 40mm taller (and will lower the car) than standard.
A 5" drop is just way to much even though it looks shit hot :o

In 2000 I was restoring a FC wagon to take a family holiday back to south west Qld .Never got the laminated windshield fitted in time and had to take the wifes wreck of a Nissan Bluebird wagon instead . To shorten the story after spending around 30 hours on the road with the rear springs bent inside out and getting melted by spotlights from motorists who thought I was on highbeam , on returning home I ripped out the springs from under my FC and put them in the bluebird [all leafs except the top one ]. Because the bluebird shackles bolt to the subframe when the car finally died I reused the springs under my Vauxhall . So my thoughts are either take the springs back and get them reset or of you still have the originals you may be able to mix and match leaves till the ride height is where you want it good luck .Haydn

Hayden, The Originals have had two extra leaves put in.... They are being reset Monday, expect photo by weeks end  ;)

Great thread guys......... just read all 24 pages of it.

I am 85% through my V6, 5 speed heart transplant and resto and it has just entered it's 8th year.

I went flatout for a while, but when I missed my 2008 deadline for the Mount Gambier Nationals (I still went, but with Qantas and Avis).......it was mothballed for a few years.

Anyway, I am back on the tools and you have provided plenty of useful stuff and had me reminiscing over my many beer ideas as well.

See you on the road............. soon.

Cheers

JK

Cheers mate, Whers your build thread

I'll get one happening.

I've moved three times in the down time, so I have to dig out some photos. ???

Cheers

JK

Bummer about the springs, but it looks pretty tough like that.  8)
   Pedro

Yeah it did look cool but not so practical.
Springs now have a 5 3/8ths of an inch gap between the line from eye to eye and the top leaf.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/02/05/etanedeb.jpg)

Small update. Designing the rails for strengthening the chassis
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/nanada6y.jpg)
No holes yet but the Y parts done

Here's how they sit
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/nejujyge.jpg)

C channel with the crush tubes checking they fit. They'll be in the original frame of the FC
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/sy8edehu.jpg)


Check to see they are snug in the FC frame. Have to clean up so can weld around it.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/u6ymaza6.jpg)

Dead straight. Ain't no fancy curves like FCRB26.
3mm plate, 50mm RHS, there'll be an RHS piece that goes across too.
Unfortunately I have to remove all the fuel brake lines and re do them. At least I've had practice!(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/usy5y3ur.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/03/03/dugy2u5e.jpg)

And you thought you had already done the hard stuff.
Keep them photos coming NES.

setup looks good

Cheers

Craig

At least you will appreciate how hard curves are now  ;D

I sure do!
All thanks to McBean again for showing me the ropes

Hey NES, you got that thing running yet??

??? ??? ???ummm define running ??? ??? ???

Grumble of 8 cylinders outside of an exhaust...

I can do that but there is no fuel!
Then have to rip it all out for paint...again

You've got 5 weeks 'til the Nats! Plenty of time. 

Sounds like you are sooking to me! Lol  ;D

The paint looks awesome JB, they did a great job on getting it straight  8) 8), unfortunately unless you start working 24 hrs. a day on the old girl the race is all but over lol, mine should be pretty well complete in another week and a half,  ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D i've been working flat out to get her finished as a mate is having a car show which gave me a deadline as he wants the old girl in it.
   Pedro

Oops sorry NES stuffed that up, put it on your post instead of JB's, not thinking too well at the moment too many things i've still got to do going around in my head lol.  ;D
   Pedro

hahahah ya boof head :D

Was great catching up today. Love the way your going about this whole conversion! Very impressive and thanks for the ideas, My mind is racing!!  :) ;D

Please father forgive me my sins. It's been 131 days since my last real update and the moderator gave me a yellow card (twice- so should be red card???)

Edit: JB got up me

Anyhoo continued on the chassis rails and wished I bought the crs one. Made a bloody mess with old mate Gary grinder. BUT he saved the day and covered my awesome welding skills up with a flapper disc.


This is my 14 degree bend in the bar that goes across the tunnel
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/8e3ehe4y.jpg)

This end will sit on the rails the go lengthways up the car
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/ymydu6a9.jpg)

Never got a photo of the length on their own but here it is 80% assembled. I need to extend to between the Y frame now and cut a curve in the centre of the H bit so it won't fowl in the tailshaft.

(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/e2eza6em.jpg)

Here she is somewhat installed. I forgot to take a photo if the crush tubes welded in...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/uredy5e6.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/y7u8a6aj.jpg)(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/3evy7upe.jpg)

I put a bar in the garage to keep me company. As if there wasn't enough room already.
The brewery up the road has Growler bottles that are 1.98L.
I told my wife once open it has to be finished other wise it goes flat. Ps stole a glass from the pub too. Oops
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/enejyrar.jpg)

The only advantage with the crs kit is that the cutting and welding is already done.  I reckon yours looks good NES and is also good to see some more progress.

Nice stuff NES and the chassis rails look great to.

Regards

Wayne b

Yes, but you didn't mention that you were sending me photos and not putting them on here lol.

Is good to see you doing a bit mate! Flapper discs are pretty good at hiding my welds too.

Cheers
JB

I can see bits of petes chassis kit in that design  ;)

Yeah about time NES. Thanks JB for putting the pressure on. BTW NES not too bad on the chassis rails as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At least 10% change so it's not a copy hey Pete !!

Yes 10 percent and there are no infringments.

Great work NES your chassis rails look really excellent keep posting photos.

Regards
Neil H

Thanks guys

NES. Been researching elec motors for my windows also.  Been considering Mazda window motors. What model did you end up going with? Im a long long way behind your build but posts like yours keep me focused.

97 sonata of all models....

Im waiting!!  ;)

Ya killin me SC00P

Any way small update

Employed Alien Auto Columns to make a column for me. George's number is 0438324661 and was very helpful. This is one of the first ones he has done that is both collapsible AND column shift auto. In line with my build requirements of making it look original as possible there is no PRND locator on the top and has a straightened EK shifter to fit the FC wheel. PRND advice is via my electronic reader connected via the ALDL (OBD) port.
The column itself is HK auto bottom and EK top end (in primer so I can scratch it to buggery while trial fitting). Torana uni's at this stage but may be hard pressed to acheive the angles with the rear mount rack  :o

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/20/98c7889ba525f344bd6f4e3399e0b351.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/20/4dcf2d035a6b514595286418eab20d4f.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/20/1bb80e7423d0428f17de912bd9b5acbd.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/20/a90baa698d2effc2c39af03fd96c0107.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/20/694af0a997b8e12ace6c2ac61697b43c.jpg)

What was the approximate price ?

You sitting down?
Price varies on what you want. Mine was more custom and so more dosh.

You need to supply HK and EK auto columns so depends on how much you pick these up for as well.

Waiting  :o :o

Nes ,Just wondering why the EK,FB column , or is it just the coffee pot . At one stage I ran a EK coffee pot with a FC ,FE shifter welded to the butt of the EK selector so as to clear the steering wheel . And yes you will probably have to recess the top uni. into the fire wall . I find the neatest[laziest] way to do this is to use the cup shaped cover off the end of a side plate starter motor [ if you have a dead one lying around] . Cut the small dome off the top and grind it out large enough to slide over your column so you can use it to mark the floor plate . Keep in mind the pedal clearance at the floor [fire wall] and the extreme angle of the uni .  CHeers Haydn

Nice column, is it installed yet? Lol
And Nes always holds back on something... They are waiting for the cost mate!  ;D

NES wont tell us on here cos Mrs NES will find out....  ;)

Not installed but I did throw it in quickly to have a look
Bingo😉

On a more serious note - column looks good NES.  How is your beast coming along?

$1200-1300i was quoted

Oops !!!  :D :D :D ;D :o

In all seriousness prob owes me 2g. When you buy a good EK column then a mint HK auto (anyone want a green wheel HK?) then pay shipping etc it all adds up.
I think George has done a really good job and I am very happy with the outcome.
Fatboys quote is standard 1200 for the mod after you buy the two columns and send it to Alien and that is only for a collapsible - mine is collapsible column auto shift. George can advise how much depending on what you want to achieve -George's number is 0438324661.
Considering you can buy an ididit column for 7-800 and is only collapsible OR non collapsible auto shift then trying to marry an FC wheel would be difficult.... then uni's wiring blah blah blah where I just wanted it done properly rather than trying to modify any steering component that the engineer would have kittens over.

Here I have the best of both worlds, collapsible AND column shift auto AND the FC wheel looks in it's place,
engineers happy :o I'm happy  ;D ;D most importantly, WIFES happy  :o :o :o

Hayden, Used the EK column as the shifting mechs are similar and easier to mate. I know the uni angle is going to be tight too. Can't pull the column back as there will be the shift gate to fowl on the pedals inside the car. I deleted the inhibitor switch from the column as well as there is one on the side of the gearbox in a VT  ;) Others may have to consider this (and the PRND pointer on top the pot) if they want it done.

JOX515, it's going pretty slowly mate. I am in training for another position at work at the moment and it's quite intense. (Radar) Air Traffic control gets tricky at the best of times (No comment required JB)
I've actually been pretty naughty while waiting for my next car to arrive and ended up with a grandpa spec unmolested 5L V8 VT Calais in really good nick ridiculously cheap (yes she condoned it but only cause it was so cheap) cost less than the bloody column and its registered :o :o :o :o :o.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/21/5869a9d73503682bcff40a1cbc0a57a3.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/21/740686a0be7ded3fa5ff18336e1dd850.jpg)

Two sayings...

Air Traffic Control
Everyday is an airshow...

Pilots...
They could seperate the cheeks of their arse!

Couldn't agree more though NES money well spent...

How's that cheap build going now lol

Cheers
JB

 ;D ;D Cheers, Ill be over for a look asap!! Big thanks for engine covers!!

Small update, I attempt at being creative but no where near what Pete can do.
Put a curve in the H bar that runs accross the car so the tailshaft wont fowl on it

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/26/e9891008b03d6cdc159ab0829bb1fbe0.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/26/3ffb90b78392178bc7ea3b5a45a8d8fa.jpg)
Yes I cleaned the welds up. No I won't show the tack welds either

Nothing wrong with that bit of work NES, looks bloody good to me.  Cheers, JOX

That looks good well done. What did u cut the curve with.

My mate Gary. Gary Grinder had a thin cutting wheel on it
Yes my grinder has a name. Harry hammer does too. Guess who's nickname is shifty!??!?!? 😆

Poor old gary has to clean up wally,s mess all the time lazy bastard. ;D

Awesome!  ;D ;D

20 years of experience is a lot more than my 20 seconds!!
May god bless Gary. His two predecessors didn't fair so well 😉

Got some final pics of the rails before I paint and put em in.(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/30/83618bff8405504f3c485ab3ae4fd597.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/30/e0224a64251f55594664551cdf6037bb.jpg)

That's well done mate. Next bit now.

Regards

Wayne b

That's a great job well done NES.  Another piece of the puzzle done....

Good work NES. Any shots of the whole car progressing? ;)

Not really Craig. It's all underneath stuff. Boot floor is in at least, another thing checked off.

Chassis rails finished
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/93e5c43b392371ff4e6b17fe06bc9eca.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/60f122d7455c52b30f7768b0b54ca7d0.jpg)
And only hanging in with a few bolts but technically installed
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/aaa70e86192aca9990473459e13bba7c.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/2b3b5ea3a90e7cfda51d41f5307ed963.jpg)

Heh heh(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/23a700314f8e955fe31a1b7ed618aba6.jpg)

That tank looks familiar... then again so does the muppet in the bottom corner lol.

Good work Nippon!

Hahahahahahahaha

You look like Foo there NES very funny photo.

I do like you sub chassis and what did you do to the boot floor, did you put a false floor in? thats what I did how about a photo mate.

Regards
Neil H

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/15/99fd5e60820f24fb74f7038ba8eb1cc7.jpg)

As requested Neil. Just had a flat sheet cut with the swage lines lined up with the original floor.

Nice NES thats exactly what I did means the tank doesn't stick up into the boot.

Make sure you keep putting photos up and just keep moving along you'll get there sooner or later it will be all worth it.

Regards
Neil H

I'm about as slow as a bee after stinging at the moment. I get 45 mins here and here and not much time to clean up much to the misses'ssss dissatisfaction

Looking good! Ill keep Your other stuff over here out of the way for longer then... ;)

Engineer ticked off chassis rails today. Pretty happy with that. Top steering uni has a 30 ish deg angle and is excessive but doesn't bind so happy with that too😉

Good stuff NES, always good to keep engineers happy.....

Good stuff NES great to see you moving along.

Regards
Neil H

Got to be a load off your mind now that you have the approval!!. Does this mean you will be producing the rails as a side business?? Sell em' for$700 ea and beat the ones on eBay.
Jim

Whoa Whoa Whoa Jim, That took me six months and 200 rods in materials. There is no way I'd make a living off that!! :'(

Turns out the fuel tank will sit too low. So to alleviate this I'll have to cut a hole in the new boot floor for the tank to sit in rather than mounting it up underneath the car.

Marked out the cuts for the tank to drop into
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/23/61f38bbbc7917d65bf4de6b02d5b4401.jpg)

Thought I'd show better photos with the bolts in
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/23/a8ca8ee4da4b454d86f8ac1800ff1373.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/23/57829f2dc7c71eee3c70b6f87bacd431.jpg)

Hey NES why do you think the tank will sit to low I am running a VN VP tank and I spaced to get it below the boot floor and it is not lower than the bottom of my diff?
Regards
Neil H

-No part of any fuel tank or fuel system component must lie below a plane created as a
component of that vehicle’s Departure Angle1;
• Any fuel tank or fuel system component must be at least 100mm inboard of the OEM
permanent body work (excluding the filler neck and assembly);
• Any fuel tank or fuel system component with a ground clearance of 200mm or less
must be adequately protected by shields or adjacent vehicle components;
• In the event of any tyre being deflated, no parts of the fuel tank or fuel system must
contact the road surface;

Engineer looking at the first point....

Hi mate just shows the difference between engineers and the interpretation of the rules.
When you look from the back of mine to the front the diff hat is clearly visible my engineer was more concerned with how low the ends of my spring shackles went, he said that they could not be lower than the bottom edge of the rim.
Sorry you are going to have to cut that nice new boot floor mate.
Regards
Neil H

Well Neil,
Just about to cut and did some more measurements, phoned the engineer and gave me the all clear NOT to cut the boot floor!, Except for the hole for the fuel filler neck... ;D

That's good news, who's your engineer?

That's great NES exactly how I did it only penetration is the filler glad the engineer was reasonable and saw the light mate.
Regards
Neil H

Yeah now have to figure out all these extra breather lines etc etc

Oh well, it's all progress mate and looks  8).

Not much progress on the tank side of things so I dropped the engine back in and started working on Alternator and Air con compressor brackets.
BLAME SCOOP- he told me to post progress prematurely...
To make it look neater I swapped them over but rattled my brain as to what I could use. An Astra compressor would have suited the application perfectly but I stumbled on an old VT V6 compress and wouldn't you know it, bolted up fairly well.
In two minds as to whether to run a pulley tensioner or create an elongated hole to swing it in an out old school style for belt on/off etc. Going for no tensioner at this stage as some how I have managed to line them (air con and alternator) up with exactly the right length 4PK belt...

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/08/64dfabee3b96ecb9a9a6efdf146afa03.jpg)

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/08/27bf332f7ff62ca112fe0e120b6a818e.jpg)

I did have it mounted higher originally but if I dropped it down and out there was no need for tensioner. Thats 10mm plate and a bitch to cut/drill but she ain't moving! :o

Oops those lines off the top of the compressor are wrong way me thinks...
At least they go straight back and not all the way around the engine.

No, this compressor is buggered and only used to trial fit. Yes I know one line goes to front for condenser ::)

The fun is making the bracket for the rear of the compressor so that the housing won't crack over time.
It about time you did something too!! No posts here for nearly 2 months lol... I have an excuse at least!!

Nah. These compressors are a dim a dozen!

lol then I hope you have a vac pump and some gas to replace it when it goes.

Looking great. Yeh I'm a real pest ;D ;D ;)

Modifying the fuel filler at the moment. Both VS necks but oddly enough there are three small vapour pipes running off one and not the other. So I'm unsure if I can get away without running it yet.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/19/e423f6d900f068eb23a369847d9e09be.jpg)

Hi NES;
Mate I dont run the commodore filler neck on my tank I adapted the original to the moved filler point on the tank and joined with a rubber hose (pertol tolerant of course) my engineer did not say anything and VSB 14 states that you do not have to use a restricted filler neck as leaded petrol is no longer available.

Regards
Neil H

We would just put a return line into the filler neck pipe on the original fuel tanks when doing conversions .Haydn

Hey Neil, I know I don't need to run the unleaded restricter, I am running it so it has the 5/8 line running off the side of it. I intend on running the tip of the original neck filler so it will have the original petrol cap on it. Can't have a dirty black plastic thing hanging out!

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/20/aedfe07253dee15a1c6878ed83fd1708.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/11/20/428235d7c1c5628bfdf9429f989bdcfd.jpg)

Hi NES
Yes I agree I also wanted to be able to run an FC cap and not the terrible plastic one.
Regards
Neil H

I have found that a harley Davidson lockable chrome plated fuel cap fits the commodore necks good...
And if you find a plain one without badging on it .. it looks like an old fc one..
Cheers
Shannon

Sounds like a good idea Shannon, Are the commodore caps vented or non vented? Closest thing I can find is one with a lock on it...

Excuse me, I have a few questions. Have you paid off that steering column yet? Have you found a VX donor yet? Also, can we pls have a pic of the whole car, as it stands atm?

Cheers

Deano.

What are you on about Deano?
Yes column.
No need for VX donor car as they were never produced with a 304ci 5L and not looking for one.
No. it's 11:44pm and it would show custom steering stuff and brackets that are not ready to be photographed

I though it's been a while since you bought a donor that's all 😚. I actually read your thread from the start cos a few thread I get confused with etc and I forgot about the column. I've started thinking ahead to mine and was wondering how the angles went and whether some uni's work better than another. You know how you said ages ago that the big loom coming through was a bit cumbersome or something, would you have done anything different. I have been toying with the idea of running a battery in the boot area and having a fair few wires coming from there. But I won't be running a factory fuel injection, I'm thinking of adapting LS heads to the sbc. Any thoughts on this at all?

Unreal progress over the last week mate!!!  :)

No idea what your talking about  ???

NES, can you see my questions? Just take the compliment and run  :D

Not when I'm drunk and in a texting fight with Sc00p!!!

Hmmm. Been trying to decipher that shenanigans but was missing bits in btw.

How did you go with a cap. Do you have a pic Shannon? Did you find out about the commo cap venting NES?

Been slow. Fuel tank mods done and a helper to paint
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/51bdf1cbb5cae8a775a3417d238201f6.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/a12b0f57ffda66f9527cc1fcf8196677.jpg)

There you go mate get the helpers out there if they want to ride they have to help is that how it works.

Have you been busy with work NES you do seem to have slowed a bit dont get disheartened mate.

Regards
Neil H

Busy with work. Been out for a bit with some little cancers on my head too. Not disheartened just need time!!
McBean took the welder back but not before I could tac up some mandrel bends for headers. Doing 1 3/4 primaries into 2 1/4 secondaries and two 2 1/2 pipes all way to back with one cat and one muffler each bank and a crossover in between.

Here's the start
45deg dumps at back.



(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/d34f146eb337ce8ae524786b950b2020.jpg)(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/11/230a2f0f38a830a762bdbde3f69d1081.jpg)

Well I hope my 15 year old boy starts helping a bit. He seems to have got interested all of a sudden now he is doing small engines at high school. He chose a tech school over private school but still doesn't know what he wants to do. Do yours have any idea? I can't remember their ages. She is doing a neater job than you bahahaha. Get her welding next. The best wife is a wife that can weld........but I never found one ;)

Funny you should mention that. My daughter is senior wire solder and I asked my wife if she wanted a go on the Mig!

Yeah my young bloke likes soldering. It's good to expose them to different things so that they can have an idea of what future choices are out there. I thought you might say "my daughter is not going to date boys". But my boys are turning out to be much better than I was at their age. Do you have a before pic to slip in front of that one. I'm going to start doing that on my page a bit more to save people scrolling.

My Daughter is 12, i'm in for a long road :'(

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/14/346eeca1e5062e2937b391d82bfd465a.jpg)

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/02/14/cc8c0f18c05151c30dafc86cea19df3a.jpg)

Wow Nes

Your daughter is a quick learner and very competent, nice welds.

Cheers
Wayne

thanks Wayne. Didn't think they were that good up close though.

That is a mighty good effort & very good coaching. As a welder by trade for many years I think it's terrific to see the young ones have ago. There's no reason why the girls can't match the boys. Good on you both.

I'll have to clear up. That's my effort at welding....

Then your daughter is a very good coach.

She paints better than you, let's see........ :-X

Made more.... But can't photograph the extractors cause they are stuck in the car now 😱

X pipe..
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/06/31e9457dd7eef49b47c1d9193c235b50.jpg)

Each bank has One Cat and One muffler2.5" mandrel pipe all the way to the back

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/06/ce2d8bbb2e91ce6ec12037121ac1f1e7.jpg)

Cause there is no room between the tank and the leaves the pipe will come outside the leaves.

Really don't know if I should do 45deg dumps or straight out back.

Dumps!!!

Yeah do dumps so you can annoy the crap out of people by blowing dust all over their clean cars at cruises... :P >:(  That why I cut mine back to about 15 degrees which makes a big difference and keeps my car cleaner too... ;)

Cut in line with bottom of pipe or squared at end of bend?

Ps Poll up the top!!

(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/06/5fbc8251cde52437e762fc5350fb3034.jpg)

Only can vote in the Poll on full website (not through Tapatalk)

Hi NES not wanting to be a party pooper but check ADR14 I think it says they have to come straight out the back can't come out the sides but if you are saying straight out the back and then want an angle I say go 45.

Regards
Neil H

Yeah NES, angled dumps.

Hey Neil your right. But my question is dump out back not sides!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/06/2309315b3ec6823c2780c3021f06d01b.jpg)

...and paint them black.

In that case mate go 45's

Regards
Neil H

+1 for chevy dumpers, 45 deg behind rear tires. Love it.

look at my ute ones

Mine are outside the Leaves... Can't see how far passed the chrome (if they are)

just under it so you dont see the tips.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/08/4faf6242b45aeb9ea41a1e74fae73969.jpg)

Hey NES that looks pretty good mate you've done a great job on that exhaust and your fuel tank looks like it is mounted and sitting nice under there as well.

Neil H

That looks spot on.

Great job Marc. I'm jealous!

Oh yeah, crap, never posted about that  ::)

Good job, good job!

Lol, yup you have been slack with the updates!!!

But I agree that the tank and the pipes do look good!

Wheres the Vid of it running???  :P

You would think with the new iOS8.3 update and its fast range of new emoticons I could at least give you the bird!!!

In two minds still wether to crank it and get a hard on or take it out and finish the engine bay  :-X Shop I went to today had no leads, plugs or dizzy cap, maybe a sign

Hey JB I did do tank updates! Just not with tank installed!

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/8aabaee9b40ac2f62ee9351d594130cf.jpg)
This was a no shit throw the other night. Triple 20 and a bullseye in two throws. It was after ALOT of alcohol and will NEVER happen again!


Sometimes when your under the car and random people walk passed...
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/09/a83e527e033f4fd1884281a4187670c8.jpg)

It's amazing he was travelling slow enough to be photographed.

Ken

Maybe he was out delivering chrome side kits for FCs....

Meh, he's no kick-ass!

he's just retracing to find his cape

Red man walking

Thanks for all the comments about how good a dart player I am.

So I went to hospital yesty to get more cancer removed blah blah and running three hours late. Soooo, Went for a walk and found a shop.....
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/b71ba345e43b0a75a4a51c7272de6c8d.jpg)
Might show my son today how to find the fire order and set up a dizzy etc. I'm high on endone for the pain so I'm gunna need the help! 😉

Glad to hear you're up and about Marc. It's never too early to start schooling the young ones in the ways of the motor.

Gotta figure it out now 😱
Supervisor here to help.

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/10/6b6d1b3f31773db85223f487b5d5aa41.jpg)

Yep, I reckon you nailed the exhaust. Will probably still Dust a bit but looks great. Couple of cool photos there too. And they say Alcohol is no good for you, look what it does for your dart skills.... ;)

I agree with the exhaust. Nice an subtle.

Regards

Wayne b

Hey NES hope your feeling better and I see you are still wearing your japanese safety boots  ;D

Oh and you are such a good dart player  ::)

Neil H

Got me good
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/113d009752f244ad4b2a025c156f1c0f.jpg)

Had some time to paint up
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/3ff1da260b23fef9e3551deb21318a49.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/4e2eebbbdec923065c0255332ad623d5.jpg)

Gearbox pan in middle to show what it'll look like. (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/d0c8cc9154f5c3a8441d67d2ce322883.jpg)

My Japanese safety boots have never let me down!!


I smudged the bastard being too excited to get em installed...

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/24af314cb6eb57853810aa4f8f98769d.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/86a666413a0e68151eb22a8b36fc82b9.jpg)

Nice work, NES. It's coming up real nice.
Wow, that cut must've made you say "golly gosh!"  At first I was concerned about your ability to have kids, but then I realised it was your melon.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/14/113d009752f244ad4b2a025c156f1c0f.jpg)

@59wagon... That's a big sack if so. Pity don't have the frank to match the beans!!

Hey Marc, that's a decent cut on the noggin mate, hope all is well. The exhaust looks great in and out of the car, all we need now is a video of the motor running and the exhaust note.
Jim

I'm with Jim!!!

reply to JB deleted as I have a better come back.
3 seconds of bliss!!
Now I can get the bastard out and clean up the bay!
https://vimeo.com/125325497 ($2)

Better ....
https://vimeo.com/125371774 ($2)

Cool Bananas.  ;D Great work Marc.

Cheers Stewy   8)

Music to my ears Marc, good to hear. 

Cheers, Graeme

Cheers guys.

My dump pipes are a $12 2.5" 90deg mandrel bend cut in half.
Found a single chrome one at supercheap for $50😱👎🏻(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/19/0410a2dfa02822451eb0586f0a881daa.jpg)

Well that only took 3 years! And you have been bagging me about how long it's taken lol

Sound pretty sweet! You obviously got the little pink plug sorted.

Only 339 days left to get it done!!

Looks great. The finish line isn't far now.

Stupid plug.

For those who won't know I had the engine on the hoist and as I was guiding it into the bay had the loom plug to PCM fall off and get crushed by the wheel of the hoist. 32 wires per plug and picked up a another cheap one. Ripped all the damaged ones out only to find out the replacement plug was for a V6😡and completely different. So got the Holden manual and painstakingly fed each wire into each slot only to find out IT DOESNT WORK. pulled my hair out for a week only to sit down and actually go through the wiring diagram of the PCM and not the plug diagram and worked out they are different! Imagine that- a mistake by Holden!! (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/19/1a1a5e87f13dd5c70b5c56ea10545c23.jpg)
What the vid doesn't show is after all that I hit start and forgot to connect the bloody lines from the gearbox 😡😡 and now have a truck load of oil to clean up. At least the vid doesn't show the heartache and pain behind the scenes.
Makes it all worth it my wife says- makes me fkn angry I say, what would she know? Get back in the kitchen.

It's like getting hit in the nuts with a cricket ball, everyone else is laughing but you!

ouch that would bring tears to your eyes  ;D

Neil H

Fkn cars...

Jeez, you must have been really pulling your hair out if it took 11 stitches to put it back in....

Hahahahahahha yeah they found a brain in there some where
Little something I've been working on. Have to have an enclosed filter so I bought an Apollo K&N filter but the flange was about a 55mm hole. Talk about restrictive. I wanted to use same diameter pipe from the bommodore so made a mod plate with half a MAF sensor to accept the same pipe.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/24/5a000ced39542847ad79dc15bf11dcc4.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/24/d05f187706526bc8b3721660241df76e.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/24/fe918624e53473dad405da10f738cdcd.jpg)

Very nice! looks pretty neat... unlike the head!

I have a jnt performance enclosed one we used to rego the torana u could have borrowed ugly as sin but did the job..

Took it off now.

Mine keeps it legal Pete! I'll put it through the guard for cold air and leave it rather than sucking hot air from the bay

Looking good Marc could you show us a pic of how you have gone through the guard with the filter.
Regards
Neil H

Nup. Only because I haven't done it yet!!

Did the pillar seat belt plates yesterday. Need some paint to finish em
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/06/2b2c2e86dd80ef7f94c27b711371e2c7.jpg)
Cut wedge in the side
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/06/c711f87294a4106ec28f894061708285.jpg)
Slipped a plate with UNF nut inside and dam near dropped the bastard.
Welded up
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/06/c21ae5fd54c93b2a36e390219e49d567.jpg)
Put plugs in
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/06/8d55e499b16f4d2707e50d0fc876e3a2.jpg)
Then cleaned it up but have no paint to finish it.... Yet

Hey mate,

What's the idea with coming through the side of the pillar? Is it so the integrity of the pillar where the seat belt is mounted, isn't compromised?

Cheers
Marc

Marc, exactly.
Cheers, Marc

Nice

Looking good mate.
Brett

Thanks mate.
In the middle of getting paint to respray it and have found that PPG in acrylic is barely sold anymore....😱
Boys at seatbelt solutions can't find a lion in a square and the trapezoid shape one will leave a gap. So I have to go with GM Press. Using black webbing (no inertia belts) it has come up pretty smick.
Bottom mounting point is on the floor and not the pillar for interest sake
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/15/c9fdf3e095f75da16aeb6150131fd36b.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/21/3cde9f3f085813ce4f40cc50e0e901f0.jpg)
See what's wrong in this pic?
They're upside down!😡👎🏻
Had to send em back. Dam those apprentices!!

Never get an apprentice to do work on your car on a Friday....., cause he'll do to your car what he's thinkin of doin to his girlfriend on the weekend! :o

But they were upside down Miss Jane on the 16th of May and you didn't notice.

I used a similar idea on my Vauxhall with the v6 because I found the K&N filter too noisy so I used that alloy piece to retain the hose to the inner guard and then took half the original filter box and filter and bolted it to the other side of the inner guard . It works well because now the engine bay is quiet and intake is cooler .Just have to use a washable filter . Haydn

Apparently you have a week off mid June... are we going to see the car driving at the end of the week. No excuses me thinks!!!

Jesus! No pressure!! Roster gods are trying their best to take it off me... So maybe, maybe not

Lol, we are all watching!!

Roster gods accepted. Had my birthday today and.......soooooo angry

Putting front end together and the buggers have given me V6 rotors (270mm) and not V8 rotors (290mm) only evident when I assemble. Never checked as I asked for V8 ones 😡😡
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/14/02f69cd76e387dc9beffc63180346c88.jpg)
Sat here drinking wondering why the F$&@ the pad wasn't contacting all the way. Took rotor off to measure 😡😡I was very specific in what I asked for.

Yes they are VT calipers in background.....

Happy birthday NES  :)  Pity the rotors have stuffed your day tho >:(

Champion Jox thanks.

Chris Cornell always helps!
If you don't know check his band out.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/14/275eb8988c5db1900e0f043c60c988bd.jpg)

Marc,
Happy Birthday
Marc

Marc,
Thanks Marc
Marc

Did you buy them at repco ?

Easy mistake mate you probably didnt mention the paint colour and if it was auto or manual. ;D

Dumb arses

Happy birthday for yesterday mate.

Nah not repco. First Choice Brakea Cardiff. Wondered why they were cheap too!
Guys took em back today with no receipt no box and no dramas. Twenty bucks for the larger correct ones. Petty grateful in the end.

Hi Marc;
Happy Birthday for yesterday my birthday today but I think I have a couple of years on you go the Geminis (not the car  ;D)

Are you using the red calipers I'm using VP on my EK ute and find they hit the cross member tower when turning to lock and I may have to grind a bit off I think.

The silver one on the deck look thinner is that the VT?

Again happy birthday
Regards
Neil H

Happy birthday to you too mate.
Yep that's a VT caliper. I considered using adapter hubs and VT but it's ready to go with VS. yep they hit the lip of the tower
As you see there originally was a notch but the calipers hit where the white lines are. Going to nick that out and should be right. The steering arm will hit the stopper on the other side first then.  (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/15/22371332fb2339d95eaacf81bba184c0.jpg)

Spot on Marc that is about the same place as my VP calipers hit so I will have to do the same.

Regards
Neil H

Except for the thickness of the rotor the VT calipers fit very well and don't hit like the VS. But keeping the VS ones  on

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/426f4fdc95a42d24cd9e47b6a9a8304a.jpg)
Bay painted

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/2deb7ae88e0384c2c2c47db442d4322e.jpg)covers colour coded...

Nice progress mate!!

Great stuff Nes

Regards

Wayne b

Final engine fit....
Had to wear my FC shirt on this occasion
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/06/26/adc1a954fbf475810268e3ae09440b6b.jpg)
Had waaaaaaay to many beers last night and feel absolutely flogged

Happy days!!!!

How good is that!

Nice work NES!

Looks like there's a bit of wiring to contend with, also.

You're not flexing enough mate!

Yep 😡

hahahah that's because it's only a light beer!

Better get my ass over there for a sqiz!!! ;D ;D

Yep

Yep, Looking good nes. Brett

Great milestone getting that engine in. Now the wiring and computer.

Regards

Wayne b

Good work NES.

Updates mate.... I know You have them ;)

What's been happening NES I haven't seen anything from you for awhile

Regards
Neil H

Cmon Marc, make your mark!
Cheers Marc

Found a dunny door unregistered with a brand new air con compressor. The only item I needed.
So I stripped and flogged parts and Longman scored a V6 with with complete body harness and computers (http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/8b517dc445610c74bae97d363642a71b.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/92767e385c48a15bc0ddbed3439e1260.jpg)

I thought screw this I'm going to upgrade the VS single piston calipers to the twin VT before even using em
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/bf8aef37f01ed4dd3668a0afdeef623f.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/d5d204e7e529934f910758c56d47e1b3.jpg)(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/fc628dacd3b56ef0956be9328e2fb11e.jpg)

Then thought the calipers looked shit like every bloody P plater wanna be hero
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/fc62dcdb31fd3f226b857b8c21acd334.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/b1b6ed2f71b55f7511debc1d7bc21d21.jpg)

15" Simmons never sat right so went and got 16" with 15mm better offset

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/ca6e23d5b29dda9177c5afc526b81b2f.jpg)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/ba2493a819367bbfda5a8ac63f984e88.jpg)

Trimmed up a badge for the engine covers
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/da78b277437b21d76ba5324d3d547433.jpg)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/5bfbbaf4b631b7872c987bb1bf63b552.jpg)

So I pulled the engine out again as it had a knocking sound that was disturbing.
Bought this to switch engines
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/84b13143839795b78bebc66c41654d54.jpg)
So I ripped both engines out only to discover the oil pick up that was extended was hitting the crank. So now I have two working engines....

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/7aaf42f2e9b86d1562f0e57d56124478.jpg)
Red paint looks crap but it's all the heat paint I had left.
Won't see it anyway
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/a6e8f958e334699531ed392cf64ef37e.jpg)
Knocked this up and busted the radiator and oil cooler. So the maroon Calais supplied lots of spares. (Including a V8 for Longman?)

(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/11/18/4bb02059d4bed9164732e234ccd4ec95.jpg)

So here I sit with my engine and car watching people brew beer on the bar TV....

Can touch up the paint again now that it is out again!   ;D

CBF

I do like a full polished B45  8) 8)

Yep. Thanks mate, very happy to have a V8 for my build!