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Author Topic: Found Object  (Read 55608 times)
ardiesse
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« Reply #440 on: October 03, 2021, 02:04:31 PM »
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Cup (the thing you drink out of) is une coupe, so the World Cup is one, for example.
To cut is couper, and its past participle is coupe (with an acute accent), hence two-door.

Where were we?  Cogitavi, secui, solidavi, molui, cogitavique -



That's pretty much the entire length of the RH inner sill repaired.  Time's approaching when I can replace the outer sill.

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #441 on: October 04, 2021, 01:03:46 PM »
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The LH dogleg, with the bottom part of the door seal retainer removed:



I traced out a paper pattern, made a cut to allow for stretching, and transferred it to sheet metal.  I used the bodywork as a form to beat the metal around -



Now it's time to see how diseased the dogleg is inside.

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #442 on: October 04, 2021, 06:18:22 PM »
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Inside the dogleg:



I've seen worse.  The driver's side, for example.  Still as many pieces to replace, though.

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #443 on: October 09, 2021, 05:37:40 PM »
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I filled in the hole in the sill, did a few postage-stamp repairs, and the inside of the dogleg looks a lot better -



Then I grafted a piece into the notch in the outside repair section, dressed the welds down, and painted it on the inside.  It's just about ready to be welded into place.



The V-notches at the bottom are the "poor person's" holes for plug-welding.

And then, with the curtains fading and the garden plants wilting, I made up one of the three pieces needed to repair the U-section at the front of the LHR wheel arch.



There are another two of those to make.  Then I can cut away most of the U-section and replace a short length of the lower inner sill.  And I'll have to chop out and replace about three inches of the outer sill too.  But by the standards of this vehicle, the outer sill is in pristine condition.

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #444 on: October 10, 2021, 04:29:53 PM »
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I spent the day cutting and forming sheet metal.

Here are the three repair pieces for the U-section just in front of the LHR wheel arch:



The patch for the inner sill is most easily done by asking the sheetie at work to cut and bend a piece of 1.6 for me.

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #445 on: October 17, 2021, 01:07:16 PM »
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Distractions (again) - Helper Spring.



Do not laugh.

I broke the left rear spring in my Humpy in June, and now that I can go more than 5 km, I can get the replacement springs rebuilt.  But how to put the car back on its feet and keep it mobile when one back spring's been removed?

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #446 on: October 17, 2021, 06:03:33 PM »
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I did do some work for "Found Object" this weekend - I made a profile of the U-section in front of the LHR wheel arch as an aid to reassembly after I cut the rotten bits out:



There are times when having a geologist as father helps.  The device at centre bottom is called a contact goniometer.  It measures the angle between crystal faces, but any solid object will do.  With the goniometer and a tape measure, I could transfer the profile of the U-section onto cardboard.  And when the major dimensions come out as multiples of 1/4", it's a fair bet that the chassis engineer designed the profile that way.

Rob
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Harv
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« Reply #447 on: October 18, 2021, 07:19:30 AM »
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I learnt something today. I thought I had a fancy protractor for measuring brass fitting seat faces (SAE 45o versus 37o AN versus the funky 60o Lucas) on old carbs and fuel kit. Never knew it was a contact goniometer  Smiley

Cheers,
Harv
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Maco
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« Reply #448 on: October 18, 2021, 08:04:34 PM »
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I learnt something today. I thought I had a fancy protractor for measuring brass fitting seat faces (SAE 45o versus 37o AN versus the funky 60o Lucas) on old carbs and fuel kit. Never knew it was a contact goniometer  Smiley

Cheers,
Harv

Me too Harv, I have an Engineers Protractor in my kit of tools.
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ardiesse
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« Reply #449 on: October 24, 2021, 05:51:12 PM »
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With the three repair pieces for the U-section trimmed reasonably well to size, I cut most of the U-section out to gain access to the inner sill . . .

As usual, scope-creep set in.  I thought I only needed to repair the bottom 30 mm or so of the inner sill, but I started to chip rust scale away and changed my mind.

I know what the inner sill's profile is.  Pressing the "dimple" is not too great a problem.  The drain slots require an angle-grinder cut, some hammer-and-vice work, and a weld.  So I decided to cut off and replace the rearmost five inches of the inner sill (masking tape showing cut-line).



And then I'll have easy access to the end of the outer sill when time comes to patch it.

Relevance Deprivation Syndrome (III):  my grey FC's generator packed it in this afternoon.  I might, in view of parts availability, have to change my allegiance back to the Prince Of Darkness . . .

Rob
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« Reply #450 on: October 24, 2021, 11:52:14 PM »
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I can have a look at the engines Iíve got and see if any have Bosch gens Rob.


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ardiesse
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« Reply #451 on: October 31, 2021, 04:57:58 PM »
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I repaired the rear section of the LH outer sill this weekend.  I welded up a couple of pinholes close to the cut-line for the inner sill repair, crossed my fingers, guessed the size of the repair piece, and made a paper pattern.  On straightening out the paper pattern, its outline was exactly the same size as the offcut piece left over from making the inner sill repair.  That doesn't happen too often.  The main outer sill repair piece came to shape fairly easily with the aid of a profile template.



Weld shrinkage got me a little.  Not much.  I hammered the vertical weld from inside the sill cavity, holding a dolly on the outside, and that helped a lot.  But the very bottom rear corner bowed out of line maybe 2 mm.  You wouldn't notice it really.  I would, though.  So I made an angle-grinder cut along the main fold line at the bottom, eased the metal into position with hammer and dolly, and zipped it up with the welder.  This was one time where I could use metal shrinkage to my own advantage.

Which just left the sill/wheel arch lip to do.  It was easy enough to form to shape, as it's not curved in two directions at once.  Then I ground the welds down, and "Rust Reformer"-d the repair to stop it from rusting immediately.

Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #452 on: November 29, 2021, 09:49:05 PM »
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So I'd better make the token post for November.  Three wet weekends in a row, with more forecast to come . . .



There were a couple of pinholes in the bottom of the LH outer sill, close to the front.  By the time I'd finished welding them up, there were a half-dozen of them.  Hindsight suggests that cutting off and replacing a six-inch section may have been a more thorough solution.

And in the "correcting my own mistakes" department, I fixed up the alignment of the inner sill return at the cowl bottom (slice through weld, insert tapered piece of sheet, re-weld).

Rob
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RichFC
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« Reply #453 on: November 30, 2021, 07:39:08 AM »
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Nothing "token" about your posts Rob !
I'm absolutely certain I am not the only member here to be the beneficiary of your wisdom and know how.
In fact, every Monday morning when I arrive early to work I open the forum and do a quick scan for "found object" hoping
there will be a "new' post from you to read and enjoy.{no pressure} Smiley 
Your posts are extremely educational and your attention to detail is second to none !
On a personal note, I also wanted to thank you publicly for all the time, effort and generosity you've shown me over the years, with
not only technical advice but also the surprise visits and long drives to my house to help me sort out a pressing problem with one of my cars
and not leaving until the problem is solved.
This is such an excellent club with great and generous members and is a pleasure to be part of.
Merry Christmas everyone and let's hope 2022 is vastly different to the last couple we've endured.
Richard.





 


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