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It's amazing the little mistakes you find when you look really close.

Now I've been using these wiring schematics since the late 60s & yet I just found another mistake in the FB drawings. On the FB 215, 219, 225, 229 diagram they list 2 versions of the dome light wiring, one for FB/217 & one for all others.

Given that the 217 model was discontinued mid FC, the FB/217 never existed as a production model. Looks like they forgot to tell the electrical drawing room this info & they went ahead & drew a diagram for that model's dome light. If we end up re-drawing the FB & EK diagrams we should delete that bit.

Dr Terry

 I only noticed this myself a couple of weeks back when doing a standard to special upgrade on my FB215 

Hi All,

I am about to put my repaired front seat covers back on. I am thinking at this point it would be best to replace the foam.

Would anyone have suggestions on what thickness foam I should use (I am thinking 2" / 50mm) but what grading of High Density Foam I should use. I am thinking this foam from Clarke Rubber (https://www.clarkrubber.com.au/products/25083p-high-density-packaging-and-seating-foam-29-200) but I don't really know what the number really mean - 29-200.

Cheers Rod

Message sent. Kevin.

It's amazing the little mistakes you find when you look really close.

Now I've been using these wiring schematics since the late 60s & yet I just found another mistake in the FB drawings. On the FB 215, 219, 225, 229 diagram they list 2 versions of the dome light wiring, one for FB/217 & one for all others.

Given that the 217 model was discontinued mid FC, the FB/217 never existed as a production model. Looks like they forgot to tell the electrical drawing room this info & they went ahead & drew a diagram for that model's dome light. If we end up re-drawing the FB & EK diagrams we should delete that bit.

Dr Terry

Nice job black57.

I know it's a bit of work, but should we produce 3 different FE/FC wiring schematics, because of the confusion over the variation in blinker wiring. Look at the mess around the brake light switch & blinker switch connectors. Maybe even do 6 variations, 3 for FE & 3 for FC, because of the difference in front blinker/parker wiring terminations.

We should do one without blinkers, one with regular red rear blinkers & one with amber rear blinkers. Your version with the coloured wires is much easier to follow.

Dr Terry

Just want to say thanks for putting the effort into this. What a great resource!

I don't doubt you are right, but I cant get my head around that.
The earth is to the body at both points, and where the double connector is, should be the feed to both the dash and the front of the same side. But the dark blue left coming down the column seems to feed the left front indicator and right dash indicator. And vice versa.

I'll take your word for it..
I have changed the diagram back.
Thanks for the pickup on the white.
Please feel free to let me know if you see any other issues with this one.
I'd really like it to be right so, everyone can use it with confidence.

I've yet to check the colours listed by holden against the actual car. Hopefully they are all correct.
Its frustrating that some of these wires suddenly change colour at some connection points.

If you think its worthwhile, I can do a modified drawing with the indicators connected the way you have outlined, in case anyone wants to use it.




Thanks.

Hi I'm wondering if you still have any NOS carby bowls. Rob (Vic Member)

Vern,

Basically yes to all your questions.

The early conrods need to be drilled at the top of the small-end when using new big-end bearings.  This change was made half-way through FJ production.  I think the pin bushes have an internal groove.
I was advised not to drill through the bearing shell because of the risk of burrs. Apparently, the shells are drilled, if needed, before the bearing metal is applied.
And the fourth ring groove is below the piston pin, less than half an inch above the skirt.

Rob

Thanks Rob ..So rather than drill a hole in the rod half big end bearing , you drilled a hole ( slight countersink ) in top of small end to gather oil mist to lubricate the pin , do the pin bushes have internal oil ways ? Were you advised not to drill the bearing shell because of the risk of the bearing material erosion ? I assume one oil control ring land is below the piston pin ? I am interested in these kind of procedures when working on engines ..THX Vern ..