Thanks for the advice. The lower levers are shown below:



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August 21, 2025, 05:12:34 PM
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11
on: August 18, 2025, 09:22:41 PM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by Jolls | ||
12
on: August 18, 2025, 09:17:42 PM
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Started by Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius - Last post by Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius | ||
The HR Banjo LSD centre in the old girl isn't sounding so good under load, so I am looking at options before I start pulling things apart.
Is it more cost effective to sort out the LSD or should I opt for a Trutrac? I don't go to drags or anything like that, just the odd "spirited" acceleration from the lights etc. |
13
on: August 18, 2025, 09:16:54 PM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by Jolls | ||
Thanks Blacky - I will see what turns up after my visit to Wagga on Wednesday in the way of good drums.
If not I guess I will start chasing some EJ/EH bits. Cheers |
14
on: August 18, 2025, 08:56:15 PM
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Started by Mal W - Last post by Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius | ||
He's been posting updates on Facebook, the body is in primer with all panel work completed.
https://www.facebook.com/malcolm.whittaker.9 |
15
on: August 18, 2025, 04:58:03 PM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by blacky | ||
You can still use your reco king pins and uprights with an EH front brake conversion mate - I just did this on my ute a few months ago - you need the EH steering arms and brakes, the rest is as per what you have now.
Its not a massive difference in braking ability, but it is certainly noticeable. |
16
on: August 18, 2025, 10:20:34 AM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by ardiesse | ||
Craig,
You got very lucky with the steering box. The attachment of the lower gearshift lever to the gearshift tube is a known weak point in FE-FCs. Yours has definitely been repaired. Normally, you'd remove the bolt attaching the lower lever, remove the lower lever, then slide the tube out of the column. If the lower shifter lever mates up correctly with the gearshift tube and the bolt holds it firmly in place, then there's no need to remove the gearshift tube from the column. Clean the sliding surfaces and lubricate well, then you should be good to go. One other recommendation is to use an EK-HR lower selector lever, complete with nylon "half-moon" trunnions. It'll give you much improved gearshift action. (This is the one which screws onto a stud protruding from the column jacket.) Post a photo of the lower levers so I can identify them . . . Rob |
17
on: August 18, 2025, 08:53:29 AM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by Jolls | ||
So I have pulled down the steering column most of the way. I haven't been able to remove the selector tube. I has been repaired in situ as I had to file the weld off the selector bolt to undo it. The repair makes it selector sube wider than the column (see photo). Unless there is some magin trick to removing it I think I need to cut the repair off, without damaging the column, and remake it so it can be re-installed. Have I got this right or is it rewelded correctly and I simply don't understand how to remove the selector tube (see photo below)..
![]() The rest of the components are useable though. All were well lubricated with moly based grease, show no pitting and are quite tight for an old girl. ![]() ![]() The runing gear I am looking at over in Wagga on Wednesday comes with a complete steering column as well so I can use the best of them and retain the other as a spare. |
18
on: August 17, 2025, 10:10:38 AM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by Jolls | ||
Had I been aware of it I may have. Already sent the king pins off to be done - I have a HR disc setup complete but am trying to aviod the engineering PITA. If maching works I can chuck them in the lathe and be done wtih it.
I may have to experiment. |
19
on: August 17, 2025, 10:08:20 AM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by Jolls | ||
I'm starting from new so no problem with whatever fluid I start with - just need to be on it going forward.
Cheers Craig |
20
on: August 16, 2025, 11:08:11 PM
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Started by Jolls - Last post by Errol62 | ||
Flush and re-rubber through out.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk |