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Author Topic: please help..  (Read 4566 times)
TorqueFC
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« on: December 31, 2005, 11:42:35 AM »
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i Have  a variety of questions below, any help is greatly appreciated.

wiring
Has anybody attempted to rewire an fe fc according to workshop manual, and if so how did they go with it?

front end
What would be the best thing to paint a front end with?
and what is the best way to remove the hr mounts, as it will have a grey in it.

engine
Has anybody used a type of paint on their grey motor that would be as close to original as possible, and was it enamel, or 2pak.

regards
Torque


« Last Edit: December 31, 2005, 11:43:13 AM by torquefc » Logged

tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
craiga
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« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2005, 01:24:05 PM »
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Quote
wiring
Has anybody attempted to rewire an fe fc according to workshop manual, and if so how did they go with it?  


A wiring diagram from the manual is all you will need, its VERY simple, just break it up into individual circuits instead of looking at it as a whole complicated thing.

I would strongly recommend that you removed the battery and used a current limted 12 volt supply instead, a 12 volt battery charger is ideal. This way you can make mistakes and not fry the wiring.

Virgin Blue have cheap return flights to Melbourne at the moment, add a cab fare, a case of VB, and I'll fix it for you. Alternately, Supercheap have a special on fire extingishers, your choice ;-)

Quote
front end
What would be the best thing to paint a front end with?
and what is the best way to remove the hr mounts, as it will have a grey in it


Paint it with a POR15 - it will last and look great.

Remove the mounts with a grinder.....

Quote
engine
Has anybody used a type of paint on their grey motor that would be as close to original as possible, and was it enamel, or 2pak.


Use a 2 pack mix, there is a very helpful thread on this topic, just do a search and you will find it easy enough.

Cheers,

Craig.
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spanner
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« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2005, 09:49:43 PM »
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Buy a tin of PowerPlus engine enamel grey. PP427.
Have it colour matched in 2 pac and keep the spray pack for touch ups.
Graham
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2005, 10:01:41 PM »
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Quote

I would strongly recommend that you removed the battery and used a current limted 12 volt supply instead, a 12 volt battery charger is ideal. This way you can make mistakes and not fry the wiring.


Best advice you will get on wiring (fire extinguisher is the second best  Grin )

Wiring ain't that hard, hell if I can rewire my entire car with help from the board, anyone can.
Make sure you have -
- Soldering Iron
- Heat Shrink wrap and a Heat Gun
- Plenty of terminals
- A GOOD crimper/cutter, not a $2 cheapy.
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TorqueFC
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« Reply #4 on: January 01, 2006, 12:06:09 AM »
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Quote
A wiring diagram from the manual is all you will need, its VERY simple, just break it up into individual circuits instead of looking at it as a whole complicated thing.



exactly what i was thinking when i read it.  i was thinking of getting it enlarged onto say A3 size and then write it out step by step.

Quote
Buy a tin of PowerPlus engine enamel grey. PP427.
Have it colour matched in 2 pac and keep the spray pack for touch ups.


thanks for that, will check it out.

Quote
I would strongly recommend that you removed the battery and used a current limted 12 volt supply instead, a 12 volt battery charger is ideal. This way you can make mistakes and not fry the wiring.


makes sense Grin Grin

thanks alot for everone who helped out on this topic, this is what its all about  Cool

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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
customFC
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« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2006, 06:51:58 AM »
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Hey Darcy.
If the HR engine mounts have been moved to suit red in FC, just leave them where they are. They will not be in the way and might come in handy sometime in the future if you drop a red in.
Regards
Alex
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TorqueFC
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« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2006, 09:00:20 AM »
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alex. the mounts were in their original position for a 6 cylinder in a hr, so if we were planning on re using them, they would have required to have been moved. thanks anyway though  Cool

also another quaetion on the front end

how are new balljoints fitted? im guessing the old rivets need to be ground off then the new ones are supplied with bolts??? (never actually played with a hr front)

any help much appreciated
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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« Reply #7 on: January 02, 2006, 09:04:47 AM »
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Hi Darcy

Thats exacly how they work.  Just grind the heads flush with the control arm and then use a pin punch to drive the old rivet the rest of the way through.  Bottom ball joints are of course a press fit.

Chuck
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TorqueFC
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« Reply #8 on: January 02, 2006, 09:51:47 AM »
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thanks chuck-greatly appreciated!!!! can anybody give me a rough idea of how much the entire ball joint set is???

Regards
Torque Cool
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
Fast_Eddie
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« Reply #9 on: January 02, 2006, 10:10:39 AM »
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You may find this link useful.

https://rsp-secure.com/shop/default.asp

Check under GM - Holden - HD/HR - Ball joints.

Also check the control arm pivots for wear.

« Last Edit: January 02, 2006, 10:12:37 AM by Fast_Eddie » Logged
TorqueFC
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« Reply #10 on: January 02, 2006, 10:50:36 AM »
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ahh Fast Eddie, thanks for your help Grin Grin

that helps alot, now things dont look so bad  Roll Eyes Shocked Cool

happy new year everybody!!
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"

in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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