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« on: October 24, 2005, 06:05:44 AM » |
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Ok, I started on the wagon   I took the seats out to have a look at how bad it was, I suppose to a novice like me it looks abit ordinary... I will highlight the areas that I'm most concerned with...  Just the main floor area  R/H side centre  Rear - both sides  Now the front areas is where I'm most concerned, I've no idea so any replies telling me the good and the bad is really appreciated...  Left front  Right front   If ya need more pics, just ask Nick |
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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FC-V8
Senior Member
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Model: FC
Posts: 424
Not enough hours in the day
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« Reply #1 on: October 24, 2005, 06:27:36 AM » |
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Nick
Looks like you are up for 4 new floor pans, under floor support rails. Could you post some photos from under the wagon. eg where the subframe mounts, cargo area, subframe rail under the radiator.
Glenn
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What it to rev ? install a CHEV !
0401-065-201
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nicko
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« Reply #2 on: October 24, 2005, 06:33:51 AM » |
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mate im afraid you need more than new floor pans thats some serious rust which almost certainly goes down into your sills and subframe,but hey you have plenty of good help available on this forum,you are going to have to get some one here to have a close look at car to work out how you proceed or not.
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mcl1959
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« Reply #3 on: October 24, 2005, 09:08:10 AM » |
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Nick, try not to look at the whole job at once, this is daunting. Concentrate on a corner at a time. Leave the sills in place at first and just cut out the floor in the shape of the new floor pan. Once cut out you can fully assess the structural members under each floor panel Repair each structural member as required, then weld in the floor panel. Don't weld the floor to the sill panel if there is any doubt that the sill panel will need to be replaced. Then proceed to the next corner Ken |
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20.4_seconds
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« Reply #4 on: October 24, 2005, 11:03:57 AM » |
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Thanks for the info and support guys,,,a little at a time and she will be fine..... I will do a bit more investigating tomorrow and give it a really good clean out. On a brighter note, I bought one old holden key at the Jindara swap meet last week for a 50c, popped it in to the ignition and she just slipped into lock...slid a piece of wire in and out popped the cylinder...woo hoo Funny how such a little thing like that was bugging me when you see what I have ahead of me....lol Until the next update Nick |
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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Sarge
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« Reply #5 on: October 24, 2005, 06:53:54 PM » |
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Nick For what it's worth I have seen worse floor pans and have repaired them. Listen to what Ken has said as this is the best way to approach a job the seems doomed from the get go. Heaps of photos of what you have and if you can get heaps of photos of what it will look like finished, these can be used for reference points if you are away from the job for any period of time and need to freashen up the old memory bank. From what I can see in the photos you have supplied the rust repair floor section that you can buy are not going to cover the whole of the area that you will need to replace. It's always good if you can make a template of the piece you need to replace, this can be made of cardboard. Bend it cut and tape it into the shape you need as cardboard is a lot easier to work with than metal and cheaper. When you have made your template with all the cuts and nicks and folds just flatten it out and trace onto your metal. I hope to be coming down to Victoria in January to see my Brother and my Mummy so hopefully I will also have time to catch up with you and I am also hoping to catch up with Rusty the Phantom. But just one step at a time old friend and remember we are always here to help you when you need it. In saying WE I mean the 1000+ forum members as thats what we do help each other out when we can. Cheers Sarge |
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Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
0421 165 351
Holden Classics; a BREED above the rest
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20.4_seconds
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« Reply #6 on: October 24, 2005, 09:49:02 PM » |
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Thanks Sarge, and everyone I'm not too daunted by it at all...is that stupidity  All part of the process, I mean for a $100 bucks I have to get some pain...Already had a tussle with the old girl...skinned two knuckles and busted my head on the steering wheel...but we are all good now.... I'm just taking a leaf out of the A-Team and McGyver... I'm gona make something useful outta nothing... Nick |
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« Last Edit: October 25, 2005, 12:16:43 AM by 20.4_seconds »
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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20.4_seconds
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« Reply #7 on: October 25, 2005, 06:45:25 AM » |
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Bit of cutting here and there - right side I pretty much tapped away with a screw driver finding soft spots then moved out about 2 inchs(more in some places ) to hard metal and cut to that point.   These are of the front RH side, all the metal is solid, above and below even though it looks abit rusty - I belted crap out of it to check  My only concern is that part at the bottom of the A pillar?  The sill seems to be solid also...gave it a good belting  base of B pillar seems to be rusty and the sill is showing signs but will check more tomorrow   and last bit for now, where I'm pointing was floating? There is no weld what so ever..it didnt seem right to me so I thought I would check.  Nick |
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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mcl1959
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« Reply #8 on: October 25, 2005, 07:00:34 AM » |
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Nick A & B pillars dont look too bad. just cut out rusty piece and make a cardboard template as suggested earlier, then weld it in.
Underfloor members all look to be in good order from the photos. That rear floor one does float just like you have seen. This is just the way it is.
Ken
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Sarge
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« Reply #9 on: October 25, 2005, 05:21:05 PM » |
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Nick
Yeah what Ken said, all looks real good, that "A" pillar looks lovely compared to the last car I had in. At least you have metal to start with.
Now that the Wagon is under way why not move this post down to Members Real Cars, with all the other great Resto Jobs that are under way at the moment.
Cheers
Sarge
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Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
0421 165 351
Holden Classics; a BREED above the rest
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Hewart
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« Reply #10 on: October 26, 2005, 07:14:48 AM » |
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Hey Nick...
I don't envy you mate, but good on 'ya for tackling the job!!!
Great pics!!
Good luck with it, looking good so far! Keep us posted!
Cheers
Les....
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20.4_seconds
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« Reply #11 on: October 26, 2005, 07:43:56 AM » |
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Thanks Les.... Having a ball ... Left side...not as bad on the left rear...   Front left side A pillar and area needs a bit of love though...   Might needsome help with this one And new R/H floor pans ready to go in when it's all nice and clean  Nick p.s I'll let the powers that be decide where this post should sit...I think it may get quite large |
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« Last Edit: October 26, 2005, 07:50:58 AM by 20.4_seconds »
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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TorqueFC
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« Reply #12 on: October 26, 2005, 08:21:44 AM » |
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tests have proven that the final words before a fatal urban car crash are "OH ****"
in a rural car crash they are " Hold my stubby and watch this for skill!"
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Sarge
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« Reply #13 on: October 26, 2005, 05:07:27 PM » |
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Nick Are you going to repaint the wagon the same colour? I only ask this so as I can picture the woodgrain dash with the white background. Dont get to ahead of yourself with the cutting, When your welding the floor section back into place remember to only tack them lightly along the inner sill. This way as Ken said if the sill does need to come out you dont have to recut it. Also it will put back a bit of support as you weld the rest of the section into place. If you are going to mig weld the section back into place try to avoid long runs of welding and just stich weld move from side to side, this will keep metal warping down, as it give the metal time to cool down while you are welding the other side. If I am telling you how to suck eggs just say so, (as I am pretty thick skinned) for I dont know if you can weld or if you have done this type of job before. I do know you are Irish that why I have typed this reply very slowly. Cheers Sarge |
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Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
0421 165 351
Holden Classics; a BREED above the rest
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20.4_seconds
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« Reply #14 on: October 26, 2005, 09:45:07 PM » |
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I have to weld it  shit.... There goes the liquid nails idea..... nah thanks for that Sarge...I'm just going along slowly slowly...have done a little welding..but only arc...so this is all new to me...being very careful with what cuts I've made so far...I will measure it all up and cut exact (ta Jamie!) when it's all ready to be glued..oooops welded Some great websites out there with resto projects showing repairs to A pillars and the like....pictures help heaps cos I read tooooo slowly As for the colour...she is staying stock. well as much as we can keep her anyway.... Nick |
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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mcl1959
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« Reply #15 on: October 27, 2005, 08:16:16 AM » |
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Nick I agree with Sarge, you need to get some welding done rather than keep cutting, hence my original suggestion of doing one corner at a time. You have now weekened the body structure and it WILL move and sag.
Also do a lot of practice first before starting with the mig welder. This is a pretty straight forward floor replacement for those of us experienced in doing it, but not so easy for a first time user of a mig welder.
Ken
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« Reply #16 on: October 27, 2005, 08:32:28 AM » |
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Oooops I misunderstood the part about cutting and welding, I thought you meant just weld a little at a time to avoid distortion.. I've put the grinder away... Will it matter if it is left like that for a week or two while I get the welding side of things organsied or should I get onto it right away? Thanks for all your help so far Ken and everyone Nick |
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« Last Edit: October 27, 2005, 08:33:56 AM by 20.4_seconds »
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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SRVLIVES
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« Reply #17 on: October 27, 2005, 08:33:04 AM » |
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It was suggested to me that when replacing floors and/or sills to jack the car up and place 2x4's between the stands and the car running the length of the car to stop sagging.
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fccool59
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« Reply #18 on: October 27, 2005, 09:48:23 AM » |
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man, after working on my floor every weekend since easter I reckon you should just por 15 all the rust as it was and cross your fingers when driving over the bumps.
Its painful to see some one back at the beginning of doing a rusty floor
how is your rear, is there much rust at the very back of the car?
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20.4_seconds
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« Reply #19 on: November 03, 2005, 07:12:18 AM » |
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I will update with some photos of the rear in the morning, going to need a petrol tank  unless they can be repaired? Rust is'nt too bad in the general rear of the wagon but the petrol tank and surrounding area is stuffed, The point of my post is this question, Anyone got any tips about removing chrome mouldings from the doors/front guards......ahh wait...without breaking the tabs or is it just one of those things ..if it breaks it breaks... So what do I spray on them to loosen them - WD40. or..Acid? lol Muchos Gracias Nick |
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All I want for Christmas is a Smiths clock bracket and knurled knobs
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