Boot Springs

[FCwagon]

Can someone please explain how to fit FC boot springs. I have had to replace a broken one and can't work out how you get the little critter wound up and on without loosing fingers & other body parts. Is there a special tool or something?
Cheers

[air-chief]

G'day FCwagon

Yes theres a special tool for the job. I don't have a part number or pix of one. Try a VERY good early Holden wrecker, they should be able to help to fit them.

a-c

[Effie C]

Hi
I think I have a picture of the tool required at home, will search tonight and place(somehow) here if unable if you have fax available will fax to you.
John.M

[craiga]

There is a special tool and the picture is in the original Workshop manual.


However I strongly recommend that you replace the original spring centre pin with an adjustable one. You can then just put the spring on easily and wind up the tension - I've just fitted boot springs to the Poo Mobile after nearly 20 years of using a NASCO broom handle to hold it up and it was dead easy.

One of the guys in the NSW club was kind enough to give me a couple of these pins, and another couple of guys gave me springs. (Another benefit of a club )

I'm sure somebody out there will have the pins I am talking about, if not I can post details on how to make them.

Cheers,

CraigA

[Effie C]

Hi Again
Found picture, as Craig has said in the orinigal workshop manual, complete with dimensions etc to make. Alas will need fax number to be able to send picture / details.
Failing that currently workshop manuels for sale on E-Bay
John.M

[air-chief]

Heres a pix of the tool This was taken from an EK shop manual, but should be the same as an FC



Use one of these and save those fingers

[mcl1959]

I have made & used the tool in the manual and its dimensions are for the FE boot spring (That's why it's in the FE part of the manual)  The FC boot spring is bigger in diameter and you need the tool to be a little bigger.  Also a slightly longer handle or an adaptor to make the mechanical advantage a bit better would be a help as well since FC boot springs are a heck of a lot stronger than FE ones.
I would certainly recommend the replacement pins as Craig suggested - a lot easier.

Ken

[Effie C]

[I have made & used the tool in the manual and its dimensions are for the FE boot spring (That's why it's in the FE part of the manual)  ]

Hi
The same drawing is in the FB manual, from what I can see in one above same dimensions.
John.M

[FCwagon]

Thanks for all the help guys.
I'll have a go at making the tool to start with + I'll make it a little bigger too thanks Ken. I don't want to cut off the original pins just yet as they are still in good nick - maybe if they get worn later.
I do have one of those Nasco broom handles but bumped it & got clobbered on the noggin so I'm keen to have the springs do their job again.
cheers

[robbzfc58]

mark    this is the thread your after
cheers trev

[Blown_FC]

Thanks Trev.....think I will go down the ADJUSTABLE PIN road.....

I've sent an email to Craig A, for more help, but if anyone else knows where I can get a couple of these adjustable pins and instrucitons to fit them, I'd be very grateful.

Cheers

Mark

[RET]

This is CraigA's original reply, which he's since removed:

I've sent an email to Mark, but thought it may be worthwhile to post the contents here. If anyone can add more accuracy or changes to my description please feel free to do so.

What you need to make is fairly straightforward. If you haven’t already removed the centre pin that holds the boot spring, you can just use a pair of multigrips or locking pliers and move if up and down. Its sort of press fitted and comes out pretty easily.

Now you need to source two bolts and two nuts that fit neatly through the hole left by removing the original pin. It is useful if you also weld on another nut to be used as a 'tension adjustment'.

Cut a slot in the end of the bolts as per the photo and fit it up as shown, placing the nut against the vertical upright in the car.

The slot holds the right angle on the end of the spring.  

You’ll also need to drill a hole for the split pin.  

Then just wind the thing up until you get to the right tension, making sure the spring is coiled in the right direction, otherwise it will come off the first time you close the boot.

To make it look nicer you could use a lathe to remove the thread, like the ones fitted to my car.

After a bit of a chat and some clarification, CraigA sent me his original drawing and photos to repost with some minor adjustments.  Since I misunderstood part of it, we felt perhaps others did too.



The most important thing to note is that the shaft that makes this rig adjustable (called the pin hereafter) is actually threaded rod, not a bolt, and that's a nut visible in the center photograph above, not the head of a bolt, as I initially imagined.

Instructions:
1.  Fit the first nut (the one labelled "locating nut" on the diagram), and feed the rod through the hole in the strut.
2.  Fit the second nut snugly but not tightly (so the pin is held in place, but can still rotate easily)
3.  Fit the spring THE RIGHT WAY AROUND  You can also optionally fit the split pin that secures the spring at this point.
4.  Load up the tension on the spring by turning the nut welded onto the pin appropriately.
5.  Tighten the lock nut against the strut to hold it permanently in that position.

Hope that helps.

cheers
RET

[Martin]

RET,

Thanks for keeping this on the board with the diagram.

Three questions:

1.  Why can't the thing be a bolt?  If a bolt was used, the head of the bolt would be the tension adjuster and the "Locating nut" would become the locking nut.

2.  Do you have any tips for the easy way to locate and accurately drill out the hole through the vertical strut?

3.  Does the threaded rod (or perhaps bolt) need to be hardened steel, or will a mild steel rod do the job?

I've got one spring that's giving me the Sh--s.  Fortunately it's popped off when the boot's been closing.  I'd hate it to fly off when somebody (especially me) has got their head in the boot.  And even with the tool, they're a bugger to get back on.

Thanks for your help.

Martin

[RET]

Martin,

It's interesting that you say that, because I have already done another prototype more or less along those lines.  However, since it's untested I didn't want to publish it.

I'll email it to you.

cheers
RET

[Martin]

Thanks RET

[brads59]

Hey Craig where would one aquire these nasco broom handles
LOL

[RET]

Your one-stop Nasco Broom Handle Shop.

happy to help.
RET

[customFC]

To get the hole in the vertical support, you only need some vicegrips. Clamp them onto the existing pin mount and move the vicegrips from side to side until the pin snaps off leaving the required hole. It's that easy.
Regards
Alex

[Martin]

Thanks, Alex.  

Wow!  Considering the twisting weight/force of the spring every time the boot opens & closes, it's a wonder they hold.  

Martin

[Blown_FC]

You are never going to guess what !   After reading the last couple of posts about drilling the required hole in the support for the pin, I've been left in confusion, as my supports already have holes....so I went and checked the parts car I have, and NO HOLES....I would have to snap off the pins or drill the holes as you are talking about.

So I had another look at my boot spings,a nd have come to the conclusion, that someone before me has already done the pin conversion.

In other words....I've had the bolt adjusting converted boot springs all along, and didn;t know it !

Aaahhh...you live and you learn....but I'm glad I brought the subject up again, as it seems to have no doubt helped others !

Cheers

Mark