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Author Topic: Front bolt for rear springs.  (Read 7280 times)
Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« on: March 14, 2004, 05:16:43 AM »
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A little help please.
I have managed to remove the rear mounts for the rear springs, but I cannot for the life of me work out how to remove the front bolts(?).
I have removed the nut and washer and the head of the bolt is slotted, which would suggest it is screwed into place. I have tried a few light taps with a hammer but no movement.
Can anyone tell me how to remove this, before I go ape-shtit with a mallet and damage something.  Huh
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robbzfc58
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« Reply #1 on: March 14, 2004, 06:37:11 AM »
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 stinky     you gotta go ape-shit with a mallet....
 but dont damage anything
            cheers trev
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robbzfc58
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #2 on: March 14, 2004, 07:56:07 AM »
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Thanks Trev, I'll start getting into the bananas right now  Grin
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sgo
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« Reply #3 on: March 14, 2004, 09:19:06 AM »
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I'm going through the same drama to-day.
Used a centre punch on the end of one bolt, to prevent burring the head/thread and  it worked fine.The other side refuses to budge a will need a bigger hammer!
And this is with bolts that have only been in for 12 months!
Oh, and the slotted head is there to confuse you, they are not threaded.
« Last Edit: March 14, 2004, 09:21:09 AM by sgo » Logged

Effie C
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« Reply #4 on: March 14, 2004, 10:58:55 AM »
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Glen
Buy a new set of bolts from rare spares and belt the hell out of the old ones, I had one which I had to take the grinder too to get it out.
They are not expensive from rares
John M
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« Reply #5 on: March 16, 2004, 09:54:05 PM »
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Stinky
        Its been a while since I took a set out but from memory the front pins are tappered. If this is right once you get them started your home and house.

Regards
Sarge
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Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
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Effie C
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« Reply #6 on: March 17, 2004, 07:49:27 AM »
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G'Day Sarge it is the later EH type which are tapered,FE FC straight sided, the rubbers 'grow' on the bolts and make life difficult at times.
John M
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mcl1959
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« Reply #7 on: March 17, 2004, 09:07:25 AM »
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This is my method - it works every time.
requirements;
40 mm diameter bar - 1 m long
sledge hammer (heavy)
1 helper
how it works;
get the helper to hold the bar against the bolt
you hit the bar hard and the bolt comes out

I agree with previous that you will probably always need a new bolt anyway because of the corrosion on the shaft of the bolt.

Ken
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Sarge
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« Reply #8 on: March 17, 2004, 10:05:24 AM »
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Thanks for that John I knew it was one of them there Holden type old car's that had the tappered pin.
So Stinky Plan B You Will Require
1 x Large round bar
1 x bloody big hammer
Now close eye's hit hard (with cuation)
2 x new pins & Rubbers.
Jobs done, now wasnt that easy. Wink

Regards
Mark
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Mark Lees Tallerbudgera Queensland
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ChrisB
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« Reply #9 on: March 17, 2004, 10:52:41 AM »
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I like that check list, but you better be sure the offsider or youself dont miss with that bloody big hammer.
I used rubber grease (brake rubber grease) to lube the inside of the bushes and shaft on assembly.
Only time will tell if it works


Cheers ChrisB   Cool
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #10 on: March 17, 2004, 11:20:25 AM »
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Thanks for all the tips, I'll be trying them this weekend.
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Digger
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« Reply #11 on: March 18, 2004, 05:49:15 PM »
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Hey there Stinky,
Another tip, when replacing the shafts try using an anti seise product on them you will find next time you remove them they will come out with ease.
I use a product from Caterpillar truck parts called Caterpillar thread and shaft anti seise.
It’s a silver colour paste and I apply it liberally to all threads, shafts and bushes it also gives you correct tork settings i.e, no thread or washer binding and has good sealing capabilities.

Only last week I replaced the rear springs in my sedan from 4 to 5 leaf  and I only had to hit the front pins once with a plastic mullet and they shot out like a bullet.
(There is a nother product called coppercoat that works just as well to.)
 
I did some time on a oil rig out from Sale in Victoria and they used this product on almost every thing to help stop corrosin from the salt water and air and come up trumps.

Hope this helps,

Steve.

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fcfromscratch
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« Reply #12 on: March 21, 2004, 10:07:55 AM »
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hmmmm...sounds "fishy" to me..... Wink
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #13 on: March 21, 2004, 10:23:01 AM »
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All out! wasn't too hard, 5 hits on one side and 2 on the other, I'll be off to the Spring Shop and Rare Spares this/next week.
Drop spindles are on their way with lowered springs on the front, I may need to replace these if it's too low. Rear springs will prolly get an extra leaf and also be reset a lot lower.
I have pretty much decided to pull-out the front-end now and go-over that too, sheesh, what happened to "cheap and cheerful".

Is there a rubber or nolathane kit for the HR front-end or is it all individual bits?

Thanks for the anti-seize tips Digger, the ol' man-in-law works excavators so I guess he'd have some lying around. He swears by Cat products, even has Cat batteries in his cars.
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