putting a red into an fc

[twitch]

what do i need to do to put a red motor into my fc
i already have a hr disc front end with red motor engine mounts what else to i need to do? do i need a bigger radiator, different generator, starter motor etc.
any info will be helpful

[Effie C]

Twitch
Suggest contacting Tassie rego authorities, they should be able to reveal all. Each state seems to want something different nowadays.
John M

[Jockster]

Hi Twitch
As John said, the best place to start is with Rego Authorities, but as a guideline if you are fitting a red motor, you should probably update your gearbox, either with auto, 4 speed or 5 speed, this will require a floor pan alteration and  the fitting of a rear crossmember, probably with a CRS Chassis Kit (depends on the states requirements). It would be adviseable to fit a HR rear end for stronger diff and compatible brakes. You will also need a brake booster (some states require dual circuit brakes) and electric wipers/washers (again some states require 2 speed wipers). Some states will also require seat belts and these will need to be properly fitted and probably engineer certified (once again depends on the state govt). It is a lot of work  and money but it is worth it in the long run in terms of driveability, power and economy. Other alternatives are Commodore V6 if you want to go EFI or V6 Chev if you want to stay with carbies.
Cheers
Jock

[RET]

I agree with everything Jockster said except the gear-box change.  The grey crash-box will mount up to a red, and gives you 4 engine mounts.  As long as you are prepared to live with the crash-box (thrashing it in first will wear it out pretty quick, otherwise it will give you years of service), the scope of your project is reduced considerably.  No floor changes, no cutting and welding, no new seat mounts etc etc.

Its crucial to get the rear brakes configured to suit the front, and the best way to do that is a HR rear end.  A 3.55 or 3.36 diff adds to the experience too, and a HR rear will have one of these.  If you keep the FC diff you have to fit a proportioning valve on the rear line.  I wouldn't put a diff any taller than 3.36 in, because you will definitely put strain on the crash box getting off the mark.

Best advice tho is to drop a dime on the Rego Authorities before spending a cent on anything else.

cheers
RET

[twitch]

thats for the info
i already got a 3.55 diff in it, electric wipers, brake booster and seat belts so i will check with the rego authorites and see what they have to say

[Spinner]

Twitch,

I'd have to agree to what Ret said.  I've purchased an FE with HR Disc brake front end161/EJ Crash Box/HR rear axle assembly/3.08:1 centre.

The gearbox is up to the Red Motor as long as you're not after rollbacks or other means of lighting the tyres up.  The 3.08:1 differential is too tall for the car (imo) so I've got a 3.36:1 centre to replace it with.  Your 3.55:1 diff should work fine.

Spinner

[Jockster]

I agree with Spinner and Ret that you can use the crash box and in my early days of fitting red motors to early Holdens I did just that, however if you start modifying the Reds then the grey crash box won't last very long but it should be fine behind a stock engine driven sensibly.
As for diff ratio I use a 3.08:1 behind both my FCs, both are running modified reds and four speeds and both get off the line fairly quick. One cat runs 14 inch wheels, the other runs 15 inch. The only drawback is that with the 50 Km/hr speed limits in town now, I don't use top gear. Both cars cruise happily on the open road at or above the speed limit and give good fuel mileage
Cheers
Jock

[twitch]

thanks for the info
with the radiator will it have to be moved back closer to the front grill or will it be fine were the standard radiator is. as the red motor is bigger

[mcl1959]

Twitch, it really depends on how u set the engine up.  By positioning the engine mounts just off the end of the crossmember, you can get the red radiator in place in the standard position, but you may need to run a cable accelerator as the head may foul the stock mechanism.  On the other hand, if the engine is forward, the radiator will not fit in standard position, but you will have plenty of clearance at the rear.  There is a point of absolute perfection where the stock accelerator will fit along with the radiator in stock position.

Ken

[Effie C]

Correct me if wrong but if retaining grey motor crash box and bolting a red motor to it would not the position of the motor and its side mounts therefore be determined already.
Side mounts on grey box are not going anywhere therefore red has to go where it bolts up to.
Radiator I don't know but am interested, Craig can you tell us as you have already done this, red to grey box.
Thanks
John M

[fccool59]

Something else to consider is that the further forward you place the motor means more room for triple carbs, turbos and superchargers as well as less work required to  the tunnel for a gearbox conversion but the further back you place the engine brings the weight further back over the front axles wich can be better for handling.
3.08 is ideal with 13" wheels unless the car is going to be mainly used on the quarter mile or through the city.
I use a bigger radiator with the sides of the radiator support panel cut out how ever the standard grey motor radiator seems to be able to keep a stock red motor cool. I blew my crashbox a week after fitting the red but it was a day when I was late for work and I had spun the wheels a couple of times then I dropped the clutch wich was followed by a bang and grind noise, if you dont change your box you dont have to change the tailshaft either but if you decide later to modify the tunnel for a synchro box you may also have to pay more engineers fees.
Before you fit your motor make sure you have the rite sump pan and pick up, overwise your steering will hit on it and you wont get it registered. Most common sump & pick up is EH for this conversion.

[2door350]

Im in tassie and have done the same thing.  Transport tas only requires HR spec brakes for the conversion for a 202.  They don't even have to be disc.....drums are ok.  If u run a 179 they need to be eh etc.....If you havn't got the front end in yet you will also need to change your outrigger to an FC one on the HR front end.  If u use a grey thermostat housing (top only) you can run the original raidator and hose and it looks beautiful.  Changing the back end is a good idea coz the fc brake setup is not ideal..Would recommend an eh rather than a HR rear end as it is shorter and closer to fc width (still a bit wider) .  It really depends on what wheels you run.  If you want big offset wheels like US racers you should use an LJ Torana back end (gives you atleast an inch each side!).  Conversion for handbrake is simple for all of the above.

Gearbox is personal preferance.........as is diff ratio....  

[fc_ute]

i have a 149 red bolted up to an original crash box in my ute and havnt had any problems (dont thrash it tho).
i had to move the radiatir forward about 25 mm, i just cut into the radiator support top bar and trimmed a bit of the sides of the radiator opening,  made up some 25mm tube spacers and used the same mounting holes but the radiator is a little bit further forward. if you trim the bonnet latch panel nicely it is not that noticeable
craig

[Grah]

G'day mate,

I have a FC UTE with a red 186 (192), HR front end etc.

You are welcome to come and have a view some time if you wish.

I'm in Sandy Bay, give me a call 0417 544 847.

There are some pics on the club MSN site under DORIS.

Grah.