Fuel Tank Sender - JB Weld Install

[Jolls]

Hi Team,

I pulled the tank out of the ute the other day and put it aside while I worked on the suspension/steering. I looked to be in great shape so I left a little fuel in it and rotated it aroudn the edges to ensure it is sealed at the joins.

With the suspension restos well under way I went back to the tank to check for pinholes and prep it for a POR 15 liner. I found a small weephole at the seam on the opposite side of the filler. This should be an easy repair. I'm not too concerned at I plan to line it with POR anyway.

l then went to remove the fuel sender unit to test it and toinspect the interior of the tank. I grabbed a screwdriver to remove the crud from around the unit only to find that the crud is what I assume to be JB Weld or similar (It is too hard to be bog).

My assumption is that there was a leak/rust around the sender unit and an owner somewhere in its history has decided to seal it all up and carry a jerry in the back.

If I remember correctly the sender unit sits in recess so I doubt that I will be able to grind it all out. Does anyone have advice on how to go about removing the JB Weld?

I guess the alternative is to cut it out and find an old tank that is good around the sender unit so I can take a cut and weld it in place - probably the easier option.

Thoughts?

If you have an rust old tank kicking about that I could take a cut from let me know!

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

[Jolls]

From the JB Weld site:

Q: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured?

A: When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600 degree maximum temperature threshold.

Heating the tank over 600F is an option once it is cleaned etc but not prior. So I will try to grind it out and see how I go with a combination of angle grinder and Dermmel.

[Harv]

Careful with the sparks from the Dremel. Keep the area wet will help.

If you are lucky, their surface prep was bodgy and once you get under it the JB Weld may prize out in chunks.

If it’s only a pinhole or two, mebbe use JB weld again before the POR. Saves welding in the tank and all the kablooey risk.

Cheers,
Harv

[Jolls]

Careful with the sparks from the Dremel. Keep the area wet will help.

If you are lucky, their surface prep was bodgy and once you get under it the JB Weld may prize out in chunks.

If it’s only a pinhole or two, mebbe use JB weld again before the POR. Saves welding in the tank and all the kablooey risk.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv,

Welding/brazing fuel tanks always makes me nervous. JB Weld and POR is my preferred method of treatment; however, I have had to do a few bike tanks as the repairs have been in areas that needed to be painted. Cleaning is the key prior to any heat application - same prior to any grinding operation (or use of a vacuum cleaner).  I'm just about to head up to the shed to see what progress can be made.

[Jolls]

I don't think the product used was JB Weld, It was hard as but I was break it off with a hammer and cold chisel. After about 1/2 hour of pain I exposed the cap and was able to lever it out. The sender unit was quite corroded on top.


The sender unit was full of varnish and seized up so time to try and bring it back to life.