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Author Topic: Engine Test Stands  (Read 1655 times)
Jolls
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« on: January 11, 2024, 06:58:27 AM »
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Hi Team,

The good ideas fairy has been jumping around in my head for about a week or so now in relation to constructing an engine test stand. I have access to a bunch of steel in our reclaim yard so with luck it will simply be a matter of welding up what I already have available. I have a few decent sized I beams available so I am thinking of using one for a spine and an offcut as the front engine mount, using some angle on risers for the rear mounts and including a radiator support at the front. I think I can probably just park an outboard motor fuel caddy and battery on the ground as fuel/power supplies.

The concept I have would look something like this:



So before I jump into bulding something:

  • What is already out there that may provide inspiration/good ideas?
  • What have I got wrong in the concept?
  • If it is workable what improvements would you recommend?
  • If you have already built one what would add if you did it again?
, and
  • From experience what should I avoid doing?

Cheers n Beers
Jolls

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Jolls
Harv
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« Reply #1 on: January 11, 2024, 08:09:39 AM »
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My engine test stand needs are pretty basic. It gets used a couple of times a year at most. My space is limited, so I needed something that would double up for storage.

I use the simple SBC engine cradles that a lot of different companies sell (I suspect all made in China, then rebranded by others) like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256067658152?epid=1643664753&hash=item3b9ed261a8:g:suwAAOSwtXtkqo2~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4FJRBAO0sElxIDTuRtnJJtk8DTrqxPQXQ8VSKnTRRpjkouO%2B80zkg%2BBzaVL5xpxLD%2ByNNANWTIJEfuuIxYj5rv5HE9%2BExuufbl5O10auGOJXPxcrTrtcqGuVLQrD0jvUxF9KUcphgIKbqsaHYlQxbFotDSajTpflzc%2FhzGpTXndqiv3z%2BAFInAQEQxcHz5okZf5RzCB4UsTJ9ZIUBjzxsCrdU2lWpFBD5EQaBNjrqeKHvhcpR3tnWgV%2FlSaBsoBphhHfHri9H5xUJ0h7eQTapktcKBOywplgVsAQdyIxN89w%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2qro0Z5j

Note that this one is expensive, as you pay for the Aeroflow sticker. Buy the same thing without the sticker and more than halve the price.

A piece of angle iron bolted across the front lets me pick up the two front engine mount bolts. Two galvanised right-angle brackets (from Bunnings) bolted to the rear sit under the sump rail. All up I'm in for under $100. I use this setup to store my spare/junk/parts engines - lets me move them around to get at "the one at the back". There is enough balance that I can run an engine only, or an engine and gearbox (though the gearbox wants to tilt down). They sit moderately close to the ground, and are wide enough that it takes a fair amount of effort to tip one over.

When they get used as run stands, I connect the battery via jumper cables. A couple of years back I got cute and bought battery cables from Supercheap, but that is overkill. A single wire to the starter solenoid (bare end... touch to the terminal to start) is needed - I use the "test lead with two alligator clamps" that I use for 12V troubleshooting. For fuel I run rubber hose to the carb, supplied by plastic bottle. I sling the bottle from the carport rafters with tie wire (the fuel setup is somewhat sketchy, but with care works). Short runs (a minute of so) you don't need cooling. Longer runs (more than a minute) I run the garden hose into the water pump, gaffa-taped in place. No thermostat, and a piece of 20" bicycle inner-tube used to direct the spent water away from the motor (el-cheapo fire hose). If I'm worried about oil pressure I'll fit a test gauge. Zorst out through the headers, no muffler (my neighbours are understanding). Remove the mechanical fan, leave the pulley in place.

I don't tend to do long runs, like the 20 minutes to bed-in a cam. Most of my stuff is "will it run?" or "playing silly buggers with some new carb setup". For longer runs, I put the engine into the vehicle (as the next stage is usually "it works.... test drive!!!").

Sometimes things don't go as planned. Testing a set of CHC fuel injection on a grey I filled the cylinders with fuel and pumped burning fuel out the exhaust. The pavers survived, but it took me a while to unclench. As a younger Harv I once helped dad set fire to a Mini as we were running the zorst straight out the head, no headers  Roll Eyes

I wear ear muffs, as doing dumb crap like running open headers sneaks up on you, until one day you keep asking people "what?" when they speak.
I get the fire extinguisher out and ready a few metres back from the circus.
I put a nozzle on the garden hose and pressure it up, leaving it near the extinguisher. Not great on a fuel fire, but if things get really out of hand it's good to prevent fire spread whilst the fireys come.
I limit the amount of fuel in the bottle to about 300mL.

Cheers,
Harv

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Jolls
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« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2024, 08:46:49 AM »
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My engine test stand needs are pretty basic. It gets used a couple of times a year at most. My space is limited, so I needed something that would double up for storage.

I use the simple SBC engine cradles that a lot of different companies sell (I suspect all made in China, then rebranded by others) like this:

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/256067658152?epid=1643664753&hash=item3b9ed261a8:g:suwAAOSwtXtkqo2~&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4FJRBAO0sElxIDTuRtnJJtk8DTrqxPQXQ8VSKnTRRpjkouO%2B80zkg%2BBzaVL5xpxLD%2ByNNANWTIJEfuuIxYj5rv5HE9%2BExuufbl5O10auGOJXPxcrTrtcqGuVLQrD0jvUxF9KUcphgIKbqsaHYlQxbFotDSajTpflzc%2FhzGpTXndqiv3z%2BAFInAQEQxcHz5okZf5RzCB4UsTJ9ZIUBjzxsCrdU2lWpFBD5EQaBNjrqeKHvhcpR3tnWgV%2FlSaBsoBphhHfHri9H5xUJ0h7eQTapktcKBOywplgVsAQdyIxN89w%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2qro0Z5j

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks Harv,

Great insights. I have looked at these on the web and thought about doing something like you have setup. From what I have in reclaim I probably only need to purchase some castors to make it up so cost wise probably close to the mark. 
So radiator support is a nice to have as opposed to essential - garden hose is a great option. I have the luxury of living on property so apce isn't a huge problem - although with trucks, excavators and car/bike projects I could do with another shed - will have to finish the house for Mrs J first though.

Will keep this idea in mind for if I start to collect more engines - I have a couple of projects between sons and I on the go /in train at present. After the FC we have a plan to shove a 6 litre into an International KB series ute body on a Rodeo Chassis and we're currently transforming a VZ Commodore Crewman from a V6 base into an SS (donor is a written off SS). The point being that something multi use like you use may have more versatility.

The advice about fire is well received - in my youth I had a couple to deal with as well. Burnt through a plastic fuel line hidden inside a rusty channel with OXY as I was cutting out some rust. Managed to get it out with the old yellow extinguisher - but was shitting bricks for a while there.

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Cheers n Beers

Jolls
ardiesse
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« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2024, 03:08:47 PM »
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Craig,

Look for the thread entitled "The Black Art of Cooling Grey Motors":

https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=26399.0

I made my stand out of galvanised right-angle sections from Bunnings and axle stands.

Rob
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Remember: if your Holden's not leaking oil, it doesn't have any.
Jolls
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« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2024, 06:16:14 PM »
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Craig,

Look for the thread entitled "The Black Art of Cooling Grey Motors":

https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=26399.0

I made my stand out of galvanised right-angle sections from Bunnings and axle stands.

Rob

Thanks Rob, found the thread and remember reading it a while back. The photo isn't all that clear but I've got the idea. Keep it simple!
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Cheers n Beers

Jolls
Jolls
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« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2024, 09:05:58 PM »
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So, Son 2 and I were discussing this today and were tossing up a design for the grey v a design that could be multi use.  After long discussions on site we decided that we can purchase an LS (Chev) stand off the shelf for about the price of the castors for a bespoke job. We had a chat about Harv's approach vs a dedicated setup and landed on building a bespoke solution for the greys and when we do the next LS build (we have a 6 litre up wrapped in plastic for an International KB1 Rat Rod) we will purchase a model like Harv uses that is purpose made for Chev engines.

The key factor in the decision was picking up a second grey today from a local farmer. I know nothing about it except it was supposed to be running when it was laid up in a shed several years ago; but it now doesn't turn over. Son 3 picked it up this morning but didn't think to ask about the history of it so I am currently chasing the detail. Suffice to say I will have one in the ute and a "spare" ready to go. The beauty being is that I can experiment, assess motors etc without having the hassle of putting them in and pulling them out of the ute.

Anyway, we knocked off around 3 today so decided to have a crack at building a bespoke engine stand for grey motors. We dropped into the local hardware store and picked up some castors (125kg) and headed home. I know 1/2 tonne is overkill, but I would prefer longevity of the castors over saving $20 on light duty wheels. We then raided the reclaim yard and returned with a 300mm universal beam (UB), a section of 200 x 45 Duragal RHS, some 90mm Gal SHS, some 90 x 45 Gal RHS and a few angle offcuts. The 300UB is massive overkill but it didn't cost us a cent so we ran with it.

We used the plan I uploaded earlier as a guide and adlibbed a bit; primarily because the 300 UB allowed us to weld the rear supports directly to the sides of it. Stopped to have a bit of a feed then back out to the shed to finish it off and clean up. We ran out of time to build a radiator stand but that is something we will add over time.

The end result:







Overall cost: $120 for the castors, 3 hours in the shed cutting steel and welding. It is a work in progress and will be finessed as we go - will add a lick of paint too to make it look pretty!

Cheers n Beers
Jolls
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« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2024, 07:28:51 AM »
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The key factor in the decision was picking up a second grey today from a local farmer. I know nothing about it except it was supposed to be running when it was laid up in a shed several years ago; but it now doesn't turn over. Son 3 picked it up this morning but didn't think to ask about the history of it so I am currently chasing the detail. Suffice to say I will have one in the ute and a "spare" ready to go. The beauty being is that I can experiment, assess motors etc without having the hassle of putting them in and pulling them out of the ute.

Heard back from the cockie this morning; the motor was in the shed when he purchased the land. He was told by the previous owner that it was a runner and could be used to run a water pump etc. That was some twenty years ago - so it has been sitting idle in the shed for 20-25 years. I just wonder what a diesel soak will achieve!
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Jolls
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« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2024, 11:44:46 PM »
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Took some time this afternoon to knock up the radiator support. IT has a bit of flex due to the height above the support. While it would probably be OK to run it as it stands I think I will add a couple of braces to get rid of the flex that "may" cause radiator damage. This is where we are at:

 

Despite measuring the front engine mount setback twice I managed to get it wrong. I was out by 40mm and the angle I used for the front mount is 40mm, so I expect that I F@#$ed up my maths when I was doing the setout. No real drama - added some 40mm angle to the back of the bottom plate to give it some rigidity.

This will work for me in the short term but I have already identified questions I should have asked. These include:

  • Have I made the right decision on how I secured the rear of the motor to the stand?
  • Would there be benefit in rotating the front engine mount 180 degrees to allow better sump access? (Note that the sump is removable in the current conficuration):
  • How do I incorporate a battery tray and fuel supply into the system. The fuel supply has to be on the opposite side to the zorst for obvious reasons; and finally
  • Do I add some gauges to make it look good or simply use an old tuning kit that measures the pertinent information?

Cheers n Beers
Jolls
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my8thholden
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« Reply #8 on: January 13, 2024, 07:47:12 AM »
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not hard now to make a plate for rear of block and a post and swivel to mount the block on to rebuild an engine ..
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Jolls
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« Reply #9 on: January 13, 2024, 09:18:08 AM »
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not hard now to make a plate for rear of block and a post and swivel to mount the block on to rebuild an engine ..

Great idea Vern; thanks. I have two engine rebuild stands at the moment - one is a free standing on castors and the other fits over the stabiliser legs of the engine crane so I am pretty set of rebuild stands at the moment. It is something I will look at as I grow the capability of this little contraption!

Cheers n Beers
Jolls
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