Ken's 57
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« on: July 04, 2023, 07:25:08 PM » |
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Hello everyone. Gear lever in the FE is getting stiff when pulling it back towards the steering wheel to engage 1st and reverse. It has also developed a squeaking sound when performing this operation. No problem going up and down into second and top gear. I’ve looked at the workshop manual but am not much wiser. My first impression after reading it is that the wheel has to be removed to get at the bearing? Is there any simple way to lubricate in order to free up? Cheers, Ken
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ardiesse
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« Reply #1 on: July 05, 2023, 12:50:39 PM » |
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Ken,
Grease the lower gearshift lever (near the steering box) where it slides on the lower selector lever. You'll see the wear marks, and no doubt some metal filings too.
Then look at the forward part of the gear lever support (aka honeypot) at the column. Grey metal dust or filings here is a bad sign and means that things have come loose at the upper bearing -
For further diagnosis, grab onto the indicator switch housing (not the stalk) and try to rotate the indicator switch bodily. If there's any looseness, then you'll have to pull the steering wheel off to tighten the screws. If the indicator switch housing's still loose after tightening the screws, you'll have to undo the screws, gently move the indicator switch away from the steering shaft and re-tighten the three 7/16" AF screws holding the upper bearing onto the column. But then you'll most likely find that at least one of the threads in the upper bearing will have stripped. Then you'll have to remove the upper bearing and heli-coil the stripped hole with an 0.5D insert - that's the really short one, and even then it may need to be trimmed to size.
As Harv is wont to say, "Don't ask how I know" . . .
Rob
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ardiesse
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« Reply #2 on: July 05, 2023, 04:16:20 PM » |
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Ken,
I re-read your post. If the gearshift is stiff when moving the lever in neutral between first-reverse and second-third, then the gearshift tube's not sliding as well as it should. Disconnect the linkages at the bottom of the column first. Then aim a stream of WD-40 at the gearshift tube, through the hole in the column, forward of the lower lever.
At the top of the gearshift tube, there's a U-shaped collar arrangement with a pivot pin. The gearstick engages into this pin, and the sides of the U slide in the honeypot. The collar's brazed onto the tube, and they have been known to break.
If the gearstick's still stiff to move back and forth even after disconnecting the linkages and lubricating, you'll have to take the steering wheel off and move the indicator switch aside to see what's happening inside the honeypot. But at this point it means a complete disassembly of the top of the steering column, and if you discover that the gearshift tube's broken, it's easier to remove the column than attempt to replace the gearshift tube in situ.
Rob
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Ken's 57
nsw-club
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« Reply #3 on: July 05, 2023, 06:42:40 PM » |
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Thanks for the detailed reply Rob. I’ll try disconnecting the linkages and using WD 40 as you suggested. The gear lever is only stiff and squeaks when pulling it back towards the wheel. Looking at the FE workshop manual on p.207, figure 7-14, there is a bearing listed as part number 40 (support-gearshift control lever bearing). Could this also be a possible culprit? Cheers, Ken
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« Reply #4 on: July 05, 2023, 08:57:05 PM » |
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Ken,
"Support - Control Lever Bearing" is what I call the steering column upper bearing. It won't be at fault. The honeypot (aka Control Lever Support) screws into the steering column upper bearing. Up-and-down motion of the gearstick causes the honeypot to turn on this big thread.
Instead, something's preventing the gearshift tube from sliding axially. Listen for where the squeak's coming from. There's a great big coil spring at the lower end of the steering column which pushes the gearshift into the second-third plane in neutral. Does the gearstick want to spring away from the steering wheel in neutral, or does it just bind?
Rob
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Ken's 57
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« Reply #5 on: July 09, 2023, 05:48:04 PM » |
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Thanks again Rob. I’m going to try your first suggestion of disconnecting the linkages and lubricating. The squeaking sound appears to be when I am actually pulling the gear stick down to engage first or up for reverse rather than when pulling it straight back. It sounds like the part I think you’re calling the honeypot rubs against the collar that houses the indicator lever. And today it was okay ![Huh](http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/Smileys/default/huh.gif) Baffling. Cheers, Ken
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« Reply #6 on: July 09, 2023, 09:43:25 PM » |
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Ken,
So . . . if the "honeypot" is scraping on the indicator housing, you need to move the indicator switch out of the way, take out the three 7/16" AF retaining screws for the upper bearing, undo (counterclockwise) the upper bearing one turn and put the screws back in again.
And then, while you have the indicator switch out of the way, make certain that the "U" collar on the gearshift tube isn't scraping on the upper bearing when the gearshift's in 2nd-neutral-3rd - adjust the nuts on the selector rod if required.
Rob
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Ken's 57
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« Reply #7 on: July 10, 2023, 01:20:02 PM » |
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I've done a little more observation Rob. The honeypot is definitely rubbing on the left hand side of the collar when moving the lever down to engage 1st gear or reverse. On the indicator side there's plenty of clearance. So if I am understanding you correctly, this will involve removing the wheel in order to "move the indicator switch out of the way" ![Huh](http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/Smileys/default/huh.gif)
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« Reply #8 on: July 10, 2023, 04:36:19 PM » |
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Ken,
It all sounds to me like parts have come loose at the top end of the steering column if the honeypot's rubbing on the indicator switch housing on one side only. So, yes, you will have to take the steering wheel off to see what's gone wrong.
Rob
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Ken's 57
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« Reply #9 on: July 10, 2023, 04:51:52 PM » |
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Thanks Rob ![Smiley](http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
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my8thholden
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« Reply #10 on: July 11, 2023, 06:54:24 AM » |
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Ken ..do you have a steering wheel puller ? ..I made mine , quite easy , I dont know what facilities you have , if you can fabricate metal I can send details , or can loan you mine , I would post it up ...Vern ..
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these days i'm half as good for twice as long
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Ken's 57
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« Reply #11 on: July 11, 2023, 03:24:10 PM » |
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Many thanks Vern. That’s great. Am an ex fitter/machinist so I can fabricate metal okay. Would really appreciate the design details when you have time. No hurry as I’m away for 3 weeks. While I’m at it I might also reco the steering wheel. It has some decent cracks in it. Cheers and thanks again. ![Smiley](http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/Smileys/default/smiley.gif)
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Ken's 57
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« Reply #12 on: July 13, 2023, 06:39:33 PM » |
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Hello again everyone. Well the plot thickens and the hits just keep on coming. Took the FE in for a rego check today. Passed with the usual flying colours! Longish drive though.... 1.5 hours. Some of it in heavy traffic. Gear stick getting stiffer as I use it in the stop/start conditions. Now noticing that when coasting in 2nd gear and suddenly touching the accelerator (not hard) that I am getting a loud clunking sound & a decent thud coming up through the steering column. Does not appear to do it when in top gear. Any suggestions please??? Cheers, Ken ![Huh](http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/Smileys/default/huh.gif)
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« Reply #13 on: July 13, 2023, 07:58:07 PM » |
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Ken,
(1): Put the car on level ground, engine off, handbrake off, engage second gear. Push the car backwards and forwards. Can you reproduce the clunking sound? If yes, then -
(2): Leave the car in second gear, disconnect the gearshift linkages at the column. Push the car backwards and forwards. Can you reproduce the clunking sound?
If no: The problem is in the steering column.
If yes: The problem is in the driveline. See whether the clunk also occurs in first and reverse. Check for looseness in the universal joints or a loose pinion flange in the diff. Inspect the rear shock absorber rubbers, and while you're at it, ensure that the rear axle U-bolt nuts are all nice and tight, and confirm that the rear axle hasn't shifted on the rear springs.
Jack one of the back wheels up, and with the car in gear, turn the wheel back and forth. Can you make the clunking sound? Is there excessive backlash?
It would be a good idea also to inspect your engine mounts and brackets for loose nuts and bolts, collapsed or broken mounts, or (heaven forbid) rusty subframe legs where the rear brackets bolt up.
Rob
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« Reply #14 on: July 13, 2023, 09:11:10 PM » |
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You are a national treasure, Rob. No doubt about it.
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Ken's 57
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« Reply #15 on: July 14, 2023, 08:02:30 AM » |
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I’ll second that RET. Thanks Rob. That’s so helpful. Appreciate the time you put in to give that advice. I’m away for a few weeks but will get onto it when I’m home again. Will update this post when I solve it. Cheers, Ken ![Grin](http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/Smileys/default/grin.gif)
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my8thholden
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« Reply #16 on: July 17, 2023, 06:30:55 AM » |
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Hi Ken ..I'll sketch the puller I made and send to you as an attachment to email as per the one on this forum ..Vern ..
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these days i'm half as good for twice as long
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Ken's 57
nsw-club
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« Reply #17 on: July 17, 2023, 07:33:47 AM » |
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Thanks Vern. That’s great 😃
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