FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum
November 25, 2024, 01:18:30 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: The FE-FC Holden Car Club of NSW are proud to host the 19th FE-FC Holden Nationals. Check out the announcement video for more.
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Add bookmark  |  Print  
Author Topic: Electrical Gremlin  (Read 4960 times)
Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
Moderator
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Model: FE and FC
Posts: 5135


Willaston, South Australia


Glenn.Stankevicius
View Profile
« on: September 02, 2017, 12:17:53 PM »
0

Weird intermittent issue.
I have an aftermarket wiring loom, one from the USA (one with the writing on the wires).
Everything works, the problem is with the indicators.
Short trips they are fine, on longer trips or intermittent driving throughout the day after a couple of hours they will stop flashing and just stay on, then later in the trip or the following day they work normally.
I have tried 3 or 4 different flasher cans and all do the same.
The flasher cans do not get hot, I have changed flasher cans when it happens to no effect.
Logged

Errol62
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1189


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: September 02, 2017, 02:28:53 PM »
0

I doubt it's the loom Stinky. Obviously not the flasher can. Not limited to one circuit so I would suspect  body to battery earth or an earthing issue in your steering column some where. Have you got the body grounded with a reasonable size wire to negative terminal? If so I would pull the indicator switch apart and give it a clean. Check the resistance between switch and power input from the flasher unit entering the column below the honey pot (yellow wire) and the light and dark blue wires with the switch engaged. I'm getting 16 ohms.

Clay's auto electrical at Edwardstown (no relation) have helped me with a similar issue on my EK in the past. I know the FEs have a different setup with the rear indicators flashing the brake light.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Logged
zulu
nsw-club
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Model: FE and FC
Posts: 1863


Old Boonah Ambo


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: September 02, 2017, 02:33:39 PM »
0

Stinky
I had an issue when using different brighter (LED?)globes apparently some other bit of kit needed to be added to the circuit so I went back to standard globes
Gary
Logged
Harv
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Model: other Holden
Posts: 1343


View Profile
« Reply #3 on: September 02, 2017, 02:43:46 PM »
0

From what I understand of it, the old incandescent globes drew a heap of amps. When that current flowed through the old flasher cans, it heated a bimetal strip. As the strip got hot, it opened the flasher. It then cooled and closed. This also gives the clicky noise.

With new LEDS, they dont draw much current, and cant get the flasher hot enough to open. You then use a fancy electronic can (has no bimetal strip, and doesn't need any current draw to switch). No clicky noise though.

Cheers,
Harv
Logged
Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
Moderator
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Model: FE and FC
Posts: 5135


Willaston, South Australia


Glenn.Stankevicius
View Profile
« Reply #4 on: September 03, 2017, 01:05:36 PM »
+1

Thanks Guys, no LEDs, I think Errol62 might be close though. I did have to disconnect the horn because it would go off randomly when turning corners.
Looks like a rebuild and rewire of the column is in order
Logged

Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Add bookmark  |  Print  

Share this topic...
In a forum (BBCode) 
In a site/blog (HTML)

 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.033 seconds with 21 queries.