EK / EH or HR Brake Pedal

[Stash]

converting FC to auto, so need a big brake pedal.

Message me...

[ehsv6]

You could use one these
https://m.ebay.com.au/itm/Holden-EK-EJ-EH-Automatic-Hydramatic-Trimatic-Brake-Pedal-Conversion-Plate-/151727637645?_mwBanner=1

[hsv-001]

Done quite a few at Rods .I would move the brake to swing where the clutch is, weld a little platform for the brake light switch and go to a wreckers and get brake pedal pad [the rubber bit] then just weld extra pedal to the accelerator side of the existing pedal to fit the pedal pad . This moves the pedal pushrod over so you can fit a larger booster where the clutch master was .

[Professor Grey]

Done quite a few at Rods .I would move the brake to swing where the clutch is, weld a little platform for the brake light switch and go to a wreckers and get brake pedal pad [the rubber bit] then just weld extra pedal to the accelerator side of the existing pedal to fit the pedal pad . This moves the pedal pushrod over so you can fit a larger booster where the clutch master was .

Top Idea Haydn !

[Errol62]

Just to add to above, you only need to move the pedal across if you want to fit a firewall mounted booster. The EL hydramatic brake pedal which is bolt up is simply the manual pedal with a larger steel pedal and corresponding rubber pad. The rubbers are available so you can just enlarge the existing pedal to suit. Or as Haydn says take pedal and rubber from donor car and weld to existing pedal pendulum arm. The EL hydramatic pedal is uncommon and will therefore cost you. If you can’t access welder then not sure about later pedal bolt on compatibility.
Cheers
Clay


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Harv]

Dumb question... but why do you need a bigger pedal?

I know that most factory autos have a larger pedal, but is it really needed? I never seem to "miss" the smaller pedal in a manual, and have no problem "heel and toeing" either.

For my EK wagon, I took the manual pedal pendulum assembly, and stripped it apart. I removed the clutch pedal, and used some simple steel pipe spacers to move the brake pedal over on the pendulum shaft. From memory, I also bent the pedal slightly. As Haydn notes, this moves the brake pushrod over enough to run a firewall booster (I used a PBR VH151, from a Gemini). The factory (small) brake pedal does not look out of place, works well in the wagon, and did not raise the ire of the engineer (and he is a particular bloke).

Cheers,
Harv

[hsv-001]

No I didn't mean to change the pedal ,to clarify I meant to simply use the brake pedal in the clutch pedal position as it has the tab for the switch and make a bracket to move the switch over then take the rubber off the pedal and enlarge the steel pedal pad to suit what ever rubber you can find .

[FireKraka]

I'll enter the fray.

My Sedan uses the standard Commodore booster, firewall mounted, the booster rod comes through the original brake master cylinder hole and connects to the brake pedal in its original position without any modification, no need to move brake light switch, used standard pedal no need to increase the size of the pad.

Commodore booster and master are great as the brake system is basically all commodore (if your doing that sort of conversion) so no need for proportioning valves and it misses the hinge by a fair bit withoput having to move it over to the clutch position.

My 10cents worth  .
Neil H

[collecta]

This was March last year is it still needed Stash?

[Stash]

Yeah still required.

Thanks everyone for their posts.

Me.. Been MIA apologies...