Costing a Commodore manual rack conversion

[hsv-001]

Ok , I need help quoting a job I promised a guy 6 months ago before breaking my hip . EH Holden sedan rack conversion with collapsible steering column to take original wheel . Want to be fair with pricing and this is the first of a lot of mods this guy is planning . I don't want this job blocking up shed space so want to go one step at a time . Other mods will be rear end conversion , 5 speed [floor lift and cable clutch] and front brake and booster conversion to suit rear end [whatever] . Can people on the forum give me any idea on individual pricing as I have not done this for money for a long while [ normally for favour or for swap or trade] . I have seen some ridiculous prices for conversion kits at car shows but would like to keep this simple and reasonable as the owner is supplying most of the parts . Thanks for any input. Cheers Haydn 

[FireKraka]

Hi Hayden
Mate I've done 2rack conversions my FC and my EK ute project.

Both have HR front ends.

Mate the V6 Conversion modified VH manual rack was $600 if you supply them an exchange rack, because I'm in WA it would have cost me a lot to freight both ways so I paid $800 without exchange.

You may not be a fan but it is easy to fit and they supply tie rod end to tie rod end.

Don't forget if you go rear rack sump will also need modifying

Regards
Neil H

[Longman]

Rodtech do the same, complete with mounts and adjusters $525 exchange. Thay are in Adelaide.

[sgo]

With a rear mounted rack, what steering arms are you guys using, and do you space then off the stub-axles a bit?

[FireKraka]

Don't mean to hijack Hayden.

Sgo I used standard HR steering arms and no need to space them from the stub axle of course you need to make sure your rim offset is right.
My FC Sedan has CRS 60mm drop spindle stubs HZ/WB rotors and calipers and my FB/EK ute project has HR drum brake modified stubs to take VP rotors and calipers 15 and 16 inch rims respectively.
There has been a lot of discussion on here regarding which are the correct arms to use in the past maybe have a search and read others more experienced than me may have other ideas I just know what has worked for me.

Regards
Neil H

[hsv-001]

No worries Neil ,I'm just trying to catch up on what's available out there and what people are doing . Some of the parts I stored away in the shed for these mods are now rather outdated as to are procedures regarding engineering and inspections . So I guess I'm picking the brains of other members before I commit to any large project that may consume too much time . Cheers Haydn

[freddyc]

I made my own collapsible column, a copy of rods racks (sort of). I used VB bottom outer tube matched to FC top outer. Inside I used VB bottom and VP top, as this has same spline as FC for taking std steering wheel. Getting the hole in the floor plate right was the tricky bit, I had trouble with the uni on the intermediate shaft notching.
fred 

[hsv-001]

Yeah Fred , I used the cover section [brush end]of a side plate starter motor to recess the uni. into the floor plate . Haydn

[hsv-001]

Like I said before on this forum [somewhere] ,at rods we used the HQ steering arms [approx. 100mm from back[was front] stub hole to tie rod end hole . In this way there is enough travel in the std. shortened Commodore rack not to need extra teeth cut and keep original turning circle . I have been known to leave 10mm of bump steer at either end [rack 20mm longer than Rods] to allow clearance for the oil filter on red motors . Also have spaced the steering arms out at the back stub hole to assist with turn in . I have found the biggest cost to doing these racks myself is not having the machinery to rethread the rack inner after cutting it off, I pay the local engineering shop $150 to put the thread and recess on it . Can someone send me a photo of how these mounting brackets are now made?. We would typically make these as a box section [4 pieces ] tapering larger where attached to the cross member on the horizontals . Each piece welded both sides[except the last ] and with enough room to lift or lower the rack position with a series of washer placed above or below . Our blue tag guy would not let us guarantee the rack unless we put the mounts on the cross members[obviously ]. Cheers Haydn

[FireKraka]

I thought I would post a couple of photos of the manual rack conversion I have just done for my FB/EK Ute project to show some of the brackets that are used and the very easy process
The Kit

Cross member strengthening plate

Setup of rack and mounts prior to welding

Rack Brackets welded

Rack mounted after welding completed


Regards
Neil H

[Errol62]

Thanks for the photos Neil. ⭐️ gold star mate.
Clay


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[hsv-001]

Sorry I didn't get back sooner , thanks for that Neil. I was wondering how to best make the brackets in relation to getting quality welds both sides . I will make something that's close to those, maybe a little closer to the cross member just to make it awkward to grease the control arm bushes . Cheers Haydn 

[FireKraka]

Hi Hayden
I know you have a lot of experience mate but the gap between the rack and the cross member is where the V6 conversions deepest part of the modified sump sits so not sure what you are doing about sump or even if you need worry.
Didn't mean to hijack either mate just thought I would show what I had done.

Regards
Neil H 

[hsv-001]

Mate ,I didn't explain correctly . It's a retro, supercharged red motor in a EH . If I was doing a V6 I would modify my own sump . But these days I would probably go for something lighter with more horses and a little drivability . Just that I promised this guy years ago and he finally got back to me and I'm a little rusty on what people are doing now . Thanks again for your help .