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Author Topic: Fe to Ej gearboxes  (Read 6003 times)
fe350chev
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« on: February 27, 2015, 06:44:39 PM »
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Hi all.

What was the original colour of these and did they change the colour at some stage. Mainly FC I am interested in. Also, what are the must do upgrades for a standard freshen up or were most things taken care of with service updates? Any advice on whether linkages etc should get any special treatment or tips? Thanks guys and Gals.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2015, 08:24:49 PM »
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The colour was engine grey, but various engine greys exist. The colour around the FE FC era was a darker grey.
The FBEK box has a double row rear main bearing which was an improvement over earlier boxes.

Ken
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fe350chev
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« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2015, 08:49:29 PM »
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Ok thanks.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #3 on: February 28, 2015, 09:38:53 AM »
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Back in the day I spent a lot of time replacing worn out linkages and selectors with filler rod ,but that was probably caused  by dirt roads and black soil .Cheers Haydn
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fe350chev
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« Reply #4 on: February 28, 2015, 10:16:15 AM »
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I was thinking of doing similar with tig and then make em tight and then plate them cos I have copper and chrome plate here.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
Harv
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« Reply #5 on: February 28, 2015, 07:49:49 PM »
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Deano,

More info here:
http://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=22894.0

Most overhauls are just the standard Rares kit - bearings, seals and gaskets. Unlikely to fit double-row bearings unless you find a NOS kit.

New refaced synchros are available, but very, very expensive.

Worthwhile either welding and redrilling the selector and shifter levers, or rubber bushing them like the FB/EKs. Either way will get rid of slop, but needs the levers readjusted afterwards.

If you are going to abuse the box, spot-weld or braze the synchro cone retaining rings to the second and third speed clutch.

Cheers,
Harv (deputy apprentice crashbox fiddler).
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fe350chev
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« Reply #6 on: March 01, 2015, 10:43:57 AM »
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Thanks heaps harvs for the info. I am mainly finding that the components such as these on the taxi that may have a million Kay's on it, are very worn. I only want to restore it but use its parts own parts. While your there, you know where the sway bar is, I noticed the taxi has a bolt going right up through to the engine bay and have done away with the mount underneath. Do you know if fatigue was common in that area. I'm keen to blast it this week to see if it's been brazed etc. But just thought it might have been a mileage thing or an easier fix.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #7 on: March 01, 2015, 01:00:25 PM »
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The sway bar retainer bolts go into captive nuts inside the subframe. Rust on the inside causes the bolts to sometimes break when they are attempted to be removed. The only fix which does not involve cutting open the subframe is to drill right through with a long bolt and nut.

Ken
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Harv
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« Reply #8 on: March 01, 2015, 03:38:11 PM »
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Do you know if fatigue was common in that area.

Fatigue is not common, but rust is. Ken's repair above is pretty common, as is patching of the subframe at that point.

Cheers,
Harv
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fe350chev
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« Reply #9 on: March 03, 2015, 08:35:20 PM »
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To me the low amount of rust, probably due to it being a city cab, then stored well, makes it more of a mileage thing. I'll check it out more later. But I would like you and kens opinion as to whether I just document it with photos or should I retain it like this or restore it back. I think if the fix looks good after blasting this week and if it was period brazed, then perhaps I should keep it as a possible period taxi mod that may have been done at the garage. So I don't know if I'm being silly or if I should just bring it back to original. It hasn't been crashed. Another thing I want to know is whether there's another number anywhere on the main body as to check the date of a part so I know for sure if the front subframe has been a replacement. It definitely looks all legit and original. To me it looks like there has been some kind of work done on the front crossmember and perhaps a new steering column and vent mechanism fitted at some stage. Is it normal for fc's to have a radio type bracket in the centre with the rivet looking flat rivet things and 2 bolts holding it on? I can't remember with the fe and can't be stuffed finding it.

One more thing, is it common to say put a fe or fc on stands and have one end firmer than the other? I think the front left is slighly higher and that matches the torsional twist of the car. I'm wondering if it's fatigue. It's for this reason I'm cutting open the outer sills and I will do measurements to see whether it's just the rust on the left that's making it weaker or if it's another trait of a million Kay's! It's not heat warpage as it's completely original. I have access to some heavy duty gear to rectify this if need be. It could be why the front sway bar was stressed.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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« Reply #10 on: March 04, 2015, 11:30:22 AM »
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Ok, since you are are asking for my opinion. Why on earth would you leave something that is broken or poorly repaired on a car that you are restoring?
Even a car which is in "original" condition should still have dodgy stuff fixed, but a restored car should be restored as close to factory condition as possible. On the one hand you talk about wanting the right colour black for the steering column and on the other hand you want to keep a poorly fixed broken part.
I have never seen a sway bar bolt broken due to fatigue, I have seen lots broken due to rust inside the subframe and a couple broken by being done up too tight.
Regarding the subframe number - I have already given you an expert opinion on this.
If your ID plate number is correct for the body (easily verified) and your subframe number is correct (you posted a photo, so it is correct) then I have a very high confidence level in them being a matched pair.
Casting numbers are very vague and you don't have an original engine.
The body shell has no other markings to identify date other than trim holes where chrome stripes would have been or not been. (1956 FE shells are distinctly different). Glass has a date on it, but it only identifies the year.

Under the speaker grille there are two holes. These holes are for mounting a radio. All the early style radios used these two holes for a mounting bracket. The bracket would go around the side of the radio and attach to side of the radio.
There could be any number of reasons why your car is out of square.
Ken



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fe350chev
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« Reply #11 on: March 04, 2015, 12:03:30 PM »
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Ok. I value your opinion and I think now that it's torn right down now, that I don't think I'll have anymore obscure questions. Are you interested in seeing what's under the area that's had the sway bar repair after it blasted. Gunna try do it tomorrow. The only reason I ask is that I'm not sure if you have a general interest in high mileage issues etc just for general interest. If I'm boring you to death or your not interested, then pls let me know. But with the question about the body sitting a bit out of whack, I suppose I just want to know have you come across ppl raising this in general very often.
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Deano

Current Rides: 1958 "Black and White Taxi" FC special Sedan, 1957 FE special Sedan, BA Futura,  2015 VF Commodore, 1956 Austin Tipper Truck
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