A few engine building queries

[Dave_EH]

Hi,

Hoping for a few more tips on red motor rebuild

1) Oil pump:  Standard or High Volume?  I have both at home to choose from.  The HV pump is only a few thousand miles old.  The other standard pump is JP item that I have not used before (second hand).

2) Cork gaskets: what is the beast sealant for the sump gasket?

3) Cam/crank gear:  Are these a matched set?  I have a cam pressed onto an alloy JP helical gear that I have been running on an existing motor.  The new motor has a REPCO gear set.  Can I just run the existing JP cam gear on the REPCO crank gear?

Dave

[Harv]

G'day Dave,

IMHO,

2) Nothing - just the cork gasket. Make both surfaces clean, and don't flog the snot out of the bolts. I really, really hate cleaning off silastic.
3) Yes, you can run one gear with another one - they are not normally a matched (blueprinted... not just made by the same company) set. Kinda hard to blueprint off a given motor in any case. They will whine a little for the first few hundred kilometres (like a gilmer belt), and then bed in.

Cheers,
Harv

[hsv-001]

To add to what Harv' said , if you are still running a std steering box you will find the High volume pump [as it is thicker through the body] tight to get in and out while the engine is in the bay . I usually undo the drivers side engine mounts and use a bottle jack between the inner guard and the engine block [use old towel or carpet to protect the paint] . Sump cork gasket , the last time I did rings and bearings on my red I thought the rear seal was gone but after much study , I found that the sump was stretched and distorted around the bolt holes and was pushing through the cork . So with a hammer and dolly I went at it tapping the holes so they would flare away from the block . Just a couple of thoughts .I will probably have people asking why you need to take an oil pump off while the engine is in the bay . Sometimes strange things [chunks of gasket ect]get lodged under your relief valve ,or you need to remove the cam . Enough said .Cheers Haydn

[fe350chev]

As Haydn said, I'd hate to think how many blokes keep getting sump leaks, when all it would have taken is a little bit of thought and common sense  to get a dolly and flatten near the bolt holes of the sump rather than piling on Shitty silicone.

[Dave_EH]

Thanks,

I have flattened the bolt holes on the sump already.  I was wondering about a little bit of Loctite 3J - the aviation type sealant on the cork?

I have had the oil pump off in the bay a few times before, and it is a pain I agree.  I guess it is personal choice on which pump.  Is the HV pump necessary?

On a red motor, does anyone know what the bolt is that goes into the side of the block behind the starter motor?  It actually looks like a BSP fitting.

Thanks so much for the help - especially with the red motor stuff 

Dave

[hsv-001]

I tend to prefer the std. oil pump these days as I have had problems with the high volume in the past and now I just use the smaller after market filters and change them at every oil change[probably more often than I should].Haydn 

[fe350chev]

It can only pump the volume of oil that can get through the galleries and bearing clearances affect it also, so because the engines were durable already I would go for a standard one for normal driving. HVO pumps were used for high sustained reving and you can get some issues if you use a sump that is too small or not baffled properly for racing etc. Think of it like a certain size water pump pumping water through a dripper system. If you turn it on and take the dripper off, the water will squirt out. If you change the pipe size to the next size up, with the same pump you will notice a higher or similar volume of water, but due to less pressure, it just pours out rather than squirt. So unless the rest of the engine has been modified with bigger galleries or extra squirters and bigger bearing clearances etc, then a standard one is the go. The same goes for oils. Young blokes using the wrong viscosity oil , combined with "opening up the oil galleries" 😱, actually reduces overall pressure at low speeds which can affect the oils ability to get to the top of the engine. That is a situation where a high volume pump might be useful, but at the same time, they would need to build it with increased big end and main bearing clearances (for high speed operation) because the engine was designed to run as it was engineered for. That's what ppl don't understand properly. Rb30's, 2j modern engines run bigger clearances for race applications but there's a lot of variability including journal width etc. That's why a performance motor won't last as long run on the street. Then you have lifters to think about too. Gee I'm waffling on again.

[Dave_EH]

Hi,

Thanks for all the help with this

I'll run the standard volume pump and see how it goes. Only very minor mods to the oiling system on the new motor.

Cheers
Dave

[fe350chev]

Can I ask if this is part of a build page or are you freshening up a completed project?