SAND BLASTING

[trent]

Hi all,
well going to strip the old girl down soon and wanted some advice on Sandblasting.If done carefully is it better than that messy job using paint stripper.I would be very interested in your opinions and experiences.
Thanks Trent.

[SEB]

Can be a bit of a downer as you see the imperfections under the paint and just how far the rust extends, but aside from that quick and leaves a good surface to paint. Just make sure you are ready to paint ASAP after the paint removal.

Costs some where in the $300-$700 area

Best regards,

Steve.

[trent]

Thanks Steve take your advise on board
Trent.

[mcl1959]

Trent, be very specific when getting this done, plastic media blasting is what you should have done - not sand blasting.  Sand blasting is very severe and if done incorrectly can distort panels such as doors and guards.
Plastic media blasting is my preference rather than dipping.

Ken

[trent]

Thanks Ken,
you really know your stuff. Question:is plastic medium like bead blasting,sorry for my ignorance.
Thanks Mate.

[ChrisB]

Trent, go the bead blasting or plastic media blasting as it does not make the metal porous looking but leaves the metal looking like new steel, I had it done to one of my cars and with little work I was able to etch and prime.
It also does not warp the panels like Ken said.

Cheers ChrisB  

[trent]

Thanks Chris,
I will try to find some one locally as i live on the gold coast Queensland If any one can knows a place that is good.
Cheers Trent.

[FC0058]

Hi Trent
I have info one a blaster down your way I will post the info if and when I find it.

[trent]

Thanks jim,
That would be of great assistance to me a real starting point,look forward to recieving that information.
Cheers Trent.

[2brite]

I agree with the others ,go for plastic/bead blasting.

I had my car sand blasted and it took me forever to make sure there was no grit left hiding anywhere because if some is left hiding in little places when the painter paints the panels or what ever the air out of the gun blows the grit everywhere and lands on the freshly painted surface,

Cheers 2brite

[trent]

Thanks 2brite,
A real good point, well looks like im on the search for the right blaster,and would like any recommendations for someone on the Gold Coast area.
Thanks Trent.

[2brite]

How bout a few clues on what your gonna do to your car?
Is it gonna be a full on resto,
Modified
Stock
Mild  etc
Colour, you know what i mean

ps When you said your gonna strip the old girl,is it a FE ,FC or is the old girl your misses,

only joking

[trent]

Well first of all let me say it would be more fun stripping the FC than the misses. he he.
Well not too sure what im going to do yet first it is a 59 Special Sedan was stored for many years but has had a few coats of paint,the body is fairly straight with the usual minor rust and still runs the mighty Gray motor.
I will strip it and see what is under the paint and then  go the orig two tone blue colors.
I would really like to drive it daily so have a few mods in mind essentially keep the body origional.would like to  run a red motor with an auto but dont wan't to have to go the additional chassi kits as i dont really know what they involve,and with what motor combination yet.
Cheers Trent.

[gp]

Hi Trent,
Sorry to shoot everyone else down in flames, but I strongly believe that the BEST method of paint removal is chemical stripping (i.e. paint stripper). Yes it's messy, yes it's smelly, but it does the job best. Another thing you should be aware of with abrasive blasting (apart from the high risk of panel damage), is that it usually also removes the zinc phosphate coating that was put on the body at the factory. That's why you need to prime/paint immediately after blasting, because you've just removed what little protection the factory provided against rust.

Go to Bunnings and get some plastic paint drop sheets (they're only a couple of bucks each), put them on the floor and when you've got all the old paint off, you just roll them up and throw them in the bin.

I've been heavily involved with the repainting of approx 20 old cars now, and would not even think about blasting!

Cheers,

Graham Pryce

[craiga]

I'm with Graham on this one, I reckon a combination of paint stripper and good old fashioned elbow grease does the best job.  Large flat panels like the roof and quarters are pretty easily taken back to metal using an orbital air sander (wizzer) and some patience, which negates the risk of distortion through blasting, while doors and guards are easily paint stripped. Just remember that its going to take a couple, or few, coats of stripper to remove 40 years of paint touchups and be prepared to find some nasties!

Everyone has their own preference so go with what you feel suits you best. Just remember the apparent shortest route is not always the best. To get the body shell the way it is shown in the photo took about 30 hours of sanding, and produced a pretty good finish.

Hope your resto goes well.

Cheers,

Craig.

[trent]

Well thanks,
Both Graham and Craig for your inspiring coments,you have been encouraging and will i will take note of your advise on this subject as i know that you are both experienced in this area.Oh and Craig if it turns out half as good as 'POO' i will be more than happy.
Cheers Trent.

[HARKO]

Hi trent just to add  a little twist to what you have laready heard I would suggest using paint and rust removal pads found in most hardware and paint supply stores .
I have used all of the above over the years and will say that sand/Bead blasting is great but not very cost effective, Paint stripper is a bugger at the best of times and leaves crusty paint in the corners and hard to reach places which is harder to remove when dry than what paint is.
Have a look at the link at the bottom of this post.
The wagon took me a day and a half to strip with a decent drill ,Look closely and you can see how many layers of paint drape the body and the pads leave an excelent finish ie Not too smooth and not scuffed up too much and cost me all of $80.
As I say I have used all these techniques and swear by the "Rust and paint removal pads" Grab one for $11 and see what you think., In the seventh photo you can see the drill and pad. Good luck http://www.fefcholden.org.au/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=album;action=display;num=1029517108

[gp]

Hi guys,
I guess if you ask 17 different people you'll get 17 different answers! I'll put in another 2 bobs worth. Harko mentioned when the paint stripper dries and leaves the hard, crusty old paint (especially in the corners, nooks & crannies). I've found the easiest way to get this residue off is to soak a rag in some thinners and wipe the panels clean. Where the metal's in good shape, you'll find it comes up like new, and still with the zinc phospate coating intact. I think Craig has hit the nail on the head, "plenty of elbow grease". I think like anything we do, where you put in the most effort or spend the most time, gets the best results.

Having said that, I don't have any experience with the stripping discs Harko mentioned, so can't really comment on their effectiveness. However, I would be wary about what effect they have on the zinc phosphate coating.

I guess now the decision's up to you.

Good luck,

Cheers,
Graham

[trent]

Thanks Graham,
Your advise really makes a good point about the effort and the final result.
Thanks Trent.

[FC0058]

Hi Trent
Just got home from the club meeting. I found out that there is a blaster at Rocklea who uses baking soda (I think) to blast I am unsure of the effects on the metal however believe it would be better than sand.

I will post his web address once I find it.