My FC Rebuild

[fcwrangler]

Haydn, that's what the lower block is, the pins are spring loaded so they keep pressure on the contact plate. I am looking at billet looms that slide inside a fixed bolt. The problems that I can foresee are how to fix the static end to the "B" pillar and the overall length (30mm). The contact plates may not fit in the rear door because of the glass run channel position on the door frame. I'll make some enquiries with Bluewire to see if they have any other options.
Will keep you posted,Jim

[fcwrangler]

Spoke with the guys at Bluewire, they have recommended I use the billet loom as it can be cut down to suit the gap between the pillar and the inner door frame. I will order them and post some pictures at the end of January when I'm back on my feet.
Jim

[NES304]

Exactly what I have been looking at! Did they say how many wires can run through them?

[fcwrangler]

The specs say 3/16" dai. I've measured the 5 core trailer wire I'm using which is about the same, so if the outer cover off should be able to get at least 6 through.
Jim

[NES304]

Dont buy it from them though, their own ebay store has em ten bucks cheaper and VPW have them at $47 the pair!
http://www.vpw.com.au/Category/Index/390195

[fcwrangler]

Thanks for the info, $20 odd a pair is a good save.
Jim

[NES304]

Thanks for the info, $20 odd a pair is a good save.
Jim

Bloody oath. Now you can buy beer with the money you saved!!!

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

I am not convinced it will work. Went down this path a couple of years ago and did not proceed on the basis the angle at the front door is quite sharp and did not think it would shut. Jim PM me your address and I will post the single loom connector I have left  (butchered the other one) so you can see for yourself before purchase. I'm no genius at this stuff so lets see what you think Jim. The forum will know for evermore then.

Regards

Wayne b

[fcwrangler]

Thanks Wayne, will give me something else to think about while recovering.
Jim

[Crumpsnr]

Brilliant idea. It seems to me you'd need to be careful where you put the hollow sections as it looks like you need access behind to install the nut that locks them in place.
Measure three times, drill once!  Martyn

[hsv-001]

I think Wayne is right . From memory the problem was that the hinges swing from inside the pillar and the bend in the arm of the hinge makes the centre point of the radius somewhere forward and outside the front guard .This is noticed when your door is on the first catch and you can see that the door comes outward before swinging ,meaning that there is a sideways movement and I am unsure if the tube will slide smoothly at this point . I think that you are close to a solution and maybe a sliding tube idea with recessed mounting points both ends with small holes in larger rubber plugs in the pillar and door to cover the recesses and allow for the side ways motion . I am unsure if I can explain this correctly. The mushroom shaped fittings that the pipe slides through could be countersunk both ends and that would give some room between the door frame and the pillar  for it to slide freely and if a lip was left around the holes then some small holes in those large grommets used to drain car boot spare tyre recesses could be used to neaten the end result . Sorry if I have confused more than I have explained . Cheers Haydn

[NES304]

Im going to buy a pair anyway and see how it goes 

[fcwrangler]

I'm going to do the same, cover all options and use what works the best. One of my customers has a small wrecking yard so I can have a look at different rubber looms. The billet ones look the part but if they don't work then they will be no good. Not hard to drill a couple of holes and if they are no good weld them back up.
Wayne is sending me down one he used for comparison so see what happens from there.
Jim

[hsv-001]

When you get that unit from Wayne consider what would happen if both sleeved connections were able to be recessed, even 20mm into the door pillar and the same into the door.Haydn

[fcwrangler]

The good thing about being laid up is it gives you time to think and try to visualise what you are trying to short out. I'm thinking of cutting an old door in half so I can see the actual gaps between the pillar and the door and then see what can be done. This would then also allow me to check the clearance for the contact plates, if nothing else, this will be a good guide for anyone else thinking of doing the same as us.
Jim

[ekute]

I bought a set of them to use in my splitty, but they are rather large!

If anyone is after a set at a discount rate pm me.

Sorry for the hijack

[collecta]

The good thing about being laid up is it gives you time to think and try to visualise what you are trying to short out

I don't think you really want to short anything out 

[fcwrangler]

What I'm looking for is a solution to my own problem of how to hide the wiring that looks good and is functional and if it helps others then that is a bonus. What I come up with might not appeal to others but it will be one solution that could be used.
Jim

[fink]

Try 'convoluted' rubber joiners,just a thought!

[JB]

In the van, I ran the wires along the hinge on the underside and then just made enough clearance on the doors so that they would not catch when opening or closing.
It seemed the simplest and easiest option at the time, and is most likely the same way I will do it again with the ute.
Not sure if Glenn is following this thread, but maybe he will be able to put a photo up to show what I mean.
Cheers
JB