FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum
November 25, 2024, 07:48:13 AM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
News: The FE-FC Holden Car Club of NSW are proud to host the 19th FE-FC Holden Nationals. Check out the announcement video for more.
 
   Home   Help Search Calendar Login Register  
Pages: [1]   Go Down
  Add bookmark  |  Print  
Author Topic: Rear spring front mounting  (Read 1895 times)
Old_Mt_Isa_Boy
qld-club
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Model: FC
Posts: 953


My Ute


View Profile
« on: February 20, 2011, 01:56:42 PM »
0

Trying to remove the stud and yes it is well and truly "in". It has a screw driver head but I am assuming the stud is not screw fitted. I am also assuming it is probably rusted in so is brute force the only solution. The shackle frame does not look like much so afraid of damaging.

Regards

Wayne
Logged
EffCee
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 1359


F4+


View Profile
« Reply #1 on: February 20, 2011, 02:32:44 PM »
0

Wayne,

You are correct in that the stud is not screw fitted. It merely sits into a taper and can be stubborn to remove at times. Sometimes hitting the screw head of the bolt will "jar" it which will help loosen the bolt. Ohter than that a bit of brute force is required. When hitting the stud, try and use a copper or lead face hammer, which is quite soft, these are also fairly heavy which helps. Also hold a hammer of 3-4lb just below the screw bolt whch will assist in loosening them. Using this method I have never damaged a shckle frame

HTH

Keith
Logged

Canberra, ACT

F4+ Wink
mcl1959
vic-club
Guru
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 6155


FE's rule


View Profile
« Reply #2 on: February 20, 2011, 03:25:54 PM »
0

I use a heavy bar about 2 feet long and rest it against the thread of the bolt- the combined weight of the hammer and the bar frees the bolt without damaging the frame. Generally you will find that the bolt will need to be replaced anyway because of corrosion so don't worry about damaging it. The advantage of the bar keeps the hammer hitting away from the sill.
If you use a Rare Spares replacement bolt, don't use the thread to pull the bolt through, use a clamp and rubber grease. I have had Rares check that the bolt is indeed the same grade steel as the original, but continued reports of threads stripping leads me to suspect that there may be something else wrong such as the thread being incorrectly cut. Along the same lines it is also important to not over tighten the nut as well.

Ken
Logged
Old_Mt_Isa_Boy
qld-club
Senior Member
****
Offline Offline

Model: FC
Posts: 953


My Ute


View Profile
« Reply #3 on: February 20, 2011, 04:02:43 PM »
0

Thanks Guys got it out. No damage.
 Smiley
Rgds

Wayne
Logged
Pages: [1]   Go Up
  Add bookmark  |  Print  

Share this topic...
In a forum (BBCode) 
In a site/blog (HTML)

 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.036 seconds with 20 queries.