What the hell!

[FC427]

Tig uses Argon as it's shielded gas about $125 for an E sized cylinder to fill and $150 a year to rent [Bastards}  , The filler wire you will need for the tig is  hi-test it is a coated filler rod to resist corrosion so as not to contaminate the weld .......FC427.......

[GM]

assuming the person is right handed, (filler rod in the left hand) do you weld right to left, or left to right?

[Ed]

I would assume you "push" the torch, so you work into your gas rather than trail out of it.

Also can you use lengths of MIG wire as filler for TIG, and do you need pure Argon or is argoshield mix ok?

and re: brake lines, it's real easy to bend them up yourself.
for clamps I found the cheapest way is to scour them off wrecks.

[Not Happy Jan]

Thanks Again Keith and FC427
I purchased a set of Jack Myers headers that came up on ebay

and was thinking of these to go with it
also on ebay at the moment. Not cheap $830.??



But for two reconditioned carbies and all the lines and linkages not too bad???

 Yes Ed ...Argoshield... thats what someone said was the go. As for wrecks???Pick and pay less???

[Mc Bean]

Hi Nick,

When your comming past again drop in and I'll lone you some gas, tungsten's, wire and my old tafe books to get you started welding.

Andy

[Not Happy Jan]

Thanks Andy
How is the rotisserie coming. I'm driving up to Port on the 17th next month.
Nick

[Mc Bean]

Last weeks for the rotisserie, painted the underfloor on the weekend. Don't know why I didn't get one years ago, so it will be ready when you are.

Cheers

[Not Happy Jan]

My back door






Is this restorable The rest of the door is pretty straight I have another set of doors that I'm getting from Glenn Bryan in gympie.
If anyone can post some pictures of a similar repair I would appreciate it!
Regards
Nick

[EffCee]

While anything is restorable if you are prepared to put in the time and effort, I wouldn't bother with doors like that unless they were made from pure unobtanium and not available any where.

I would use another door, or set of doors if you can get them

Keith

[FC0058]

Hi Nick
They must be some special twins (gold plated) coz mine did not cost me anything near that.

Keep looking or build your own, fully recoed carb's can be purchased from extreme fuel at a very good price and all the parts to build linkages can also be purchased through various outlets.

Cheers Jim

[Ed]

Nick,

Would be a pretty easy fix.

Cheers

Ed

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Nick,

Would be a pretty easy fix.

  show-off!

[Ed]

 
get cracking!

here's a tip... make your rust repair panel, trace it onto your panel and then cut.. it's faster and easier that way.

told you it was easy.

Cheers

Ed

[Not Happy Jan]

Thanks Ed
Thats a great tip .
I hope I can do as good a job as that
How do you finish off the bottom edge of the door at the drainhole where the rust has made holes Spot fill them
Sodablaster coming on Saturday to take a look . Then off to Hastings Old Holdens show and shine to have a look and hopefully get some  leads for some local suppliers/mechanics etc
. Bought some sheet metal so hopefully some panel fabrication this weekend. Get the hammer and dolly out!

I've been thinking about por15 for the subframe, underside, diff and springs spare tyre well and tank. From all accounts I've read its a pretty good product. Is it as easy to use as they claim?
All assistance greatly appreciated as always
Nick

[Ed]

Hey Nick,

To repair the drain hole area, fold up small bit of sheet drill a hole in it, file or die grind the shape of the opening, cut out the rust and weld in the new repair section.

when you fold do a larger piece then cut it down to the size you need.

If you have other doors coming, it wont hurt to have a go at this door, just take your time and make sure all your sections fit properly.  Aim for as little gap as possible, gaps = distortion.

POR15 is good, but it's a bit annoying to use as it takes a long time to dry, then you need to scuff off the shine or use tie coat over it to paint.. or dust in some etch primer before it's fully cured.

I used it inside, outside everything before and it added a lot of time to the job.

As a product it's pretty good, I've tested it around my house on steel out door furniture exposed to salt air too and found it to hold up very nicely provided the top coats are in good condition.

Hope this helps

Cheers

Ed

[Not Happy Jan]

Hello all
Thanks Ed.

I get some parts back this weekend from the soda blaster and I want to POR 15 them all. I'm going to check out the process of what to do this afternoon. But essentially do you use it on external surfaces as well... bonnet doors etc.
I did some metal work on the weekend



Not too bad. Next stage is to weld all three peices together and cut in and join the last piece after it has been soda blasted. then weld it in as a single peice. The contours of the corner are pretty well spot on as the other side.

[Ed]

Rust therapy!

You've done the hard bit, now zap it together.

I did use POR15 externally but wouldn't do so again, I reckon a good quality super etch primer would do the same job.

from my findings and shed analysis of rust and what causes cars to rust...

Usually you get a leak (from a window seal, badge hole or something). Water and moisture gets in behind the panel to an unprotected area and rusts thru from there.

Rust in sills and lower doors is usually caused by excessive dirt build up and blocked drain holes.

So in my opinion POR15 isn’t necessary on external surfaces.

Cheers

Ed

[Not Happy Jan]

This is the next section that I have to attack



As you can see there is some nasty cancer on the inside. I guess that when soda blasted and the with a coat of POR 15 this will be OK.
Has anyone else replaced this section?


Another shot of the form work. The picture shows a bigger gap than in reality.
It massages in better than that!

Nick

[Not Happy Jan]

For the last section on the upper channel I was going to grind out the section along the gutter and then fabricate a section that goes from the lip of the channel across to the spot welds on the inside of the window frame??


Nick

[pedro]

Nice and neat Nick, looks like you did a better job than I did, thought you said you hadn't done this before , yes I had to do the bottom bit too, you'll have to go back a fair way in my post to find it though.
                      Pedro