What the hell!

[Not Happy Jan]

Hit the wrong button
I have Jack, and If the car was in Sydney than I would definitely go down that path, but not knowing the tradespeople up on the north coast and not having help to lift etc I thought that it would be easier doing it this way. Just little bits at a time! That idea may change as I try and strip the paint but I sort of like the idea of taking it back myself. Its therapy! Doors and tailgate first!
Nick

[julius]

Hi

Just read your post and yes it is admirable that you want to do it all yourself. however if you go down the road of removing all the crud yourself and yes its going to be great therapy, but its going to take you weeks.

Doing the roof and panels by hand make beating easier down the track and no chance of damage.

I would only have the floor, firewall,sills and cargo area inside and out blasted as they are the hardest to clean. and by blasting your going to find rust where you never thought possible. Thus making the end product better.

The first job is rust and by going this way your weeks or months ahead on your build you will also save money and time, let alone the mess your going to make.

also sounds you have limited time to work on it as you commute.

Kind regards

Julius

[pedro]

Nick, did you read the part in my post where I started doing it by hand with the discs, I used up a couple of discs doing a small area so started calculating how many I was going to use to do the whole thing, at around $20 each, plus wire brush ones for getting into the hard to get spots it was going to cost me hundreds, plus about a about a weeks work getting filthy dirty, cut, bruised and nagged , easier to just hand over the money and get it back like new, if you are trying to save $ just get the shell done or even just the floor and interior that's the hardest part, and then do everything else yourself.
                           Pedro

[FCRB26]

Hi Nick
 I believe in you get what you pay for my workshop only uses the best but lately i have set tigs up for customers cheapy,s off e bay about $900 and they were AC/DC high frequency ones (can weld alloy) and i cannot fault them maybe longetivity is not so good but for use every now and then they seem great.
In comparision to a 6 grand tig they went pretty well.
But they are unreal as long as someone can give you a lesson and help with setup for first timers


Just watch strip discs on panels       rubbing = heat heat = distortion.

[pedro]

Pedro.... around the tail gate where the lip is to secure the seal... what did you do to fix up the lip where you cut that section out???



This is about the best pic. I can find, I just folded up a peice of metal to the right size and welded it in, I use the same technique of making the peice out of cardboard first.
                      Pedro

[Not Happy Jan]

Thanks for the encouragement everyone.
Thanks for the photo Pedro. What are the small welds either side of the main weld. Are you just filling in pinholes etc. I picked up a TIG second hand and the guy who I bought it off was very helpful and gave me a good demo. He is a prefessional welder and he said the same as you fchoon. Good quality from a little machine. Don't expect to be doing too much anyway. Lots of practice though!
Julius and Jack have convinced me to look at getting the tough spots soda blasted. Have joined the holden Car club in Port Macquarie and was speaking to a member who said there is a mobile guy who will set up a tent and do it in you garage. Sounds good... I will investigate that option.
Pulled out the engine over easter weekend and front end is off again and stripping the body of parts.
Got stuck on the last bolt for the subframe on the PS wishbone. Will have another go at that on the weekend. Man some of those bolts are tight. Just soaked them in WD40!
Everytime you take something off you wonder if you're going to be able to remember where it came from!!!
All bagged and labels applied... even so it gets daunting!
More photos after the weekend.
Nick

[FCRB26]

Good stuff sound like fun once you master a tig you realise how much you hate grinding mig welds down.

I got the bug last week and now have a bare shell sitting in my shed keeps getting a bigger and bigger project.


Pete

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

I'm hearing you Nick. I have a couple of posts on those pesky bolts. Wait till you get to take the frame off. I'm still going after a couple of week ends. All good fun. Good luck.

Regards

Wayne

[Not Happy Jan]

I read that post Wayne!! It beats me when you can turn the suckers but they still wont come out!!
Still ... what doesn't kill you only makes you stronger . Gunna get a bigger hammer

[JB]

What you are up against is the bolt on the inside rusting and then flaking which expands the bolts... The hole is so snug when they go in that its is a miracle to get them out again with out lots of violence... well thats what it usually takes me lol. So yes they spin very easily, but still wont come out.

Good Luck
JB

[Not Happy Jan]

Got all the bolts out except for the PS wing which bolts through the sill section. The nut has been stripped and I think at some stage the bolt has been welded in place. So being the true mechanic that I am I got the angle grinder onto the head of the bolt and tried to push the whole thing through.
Only had a couple of hours to work due to it being my wedding anniversary ( 18)  and had to leave proceedings with the bolt head end just hanging on the inside hole. The subframe is being supported on Jacks and engine lifter but just won't come that extra 3mm to come off completely
There was a bit more rust in the subframe than I first thought. One section that is hidden in front of the firewall on the DS has been completely eaten away. I think that it was a good move to strip it all back and get rid of all the rust.
Pictures after this weekend. Moving to the coast has meant a myriad of visitors leaving very little time for really important things!
The bolts on the chassis came out pretty easily after some coaxing with a lump hammer ( new favourite tool). The bolts are thicker through the mid section than they are at the thread end.
Where do you get replacements for them?
Nick

[FATBOY]

rare spares do these there about $70
regards fatboy

[pedro]

What are the small welds either side of the main weld. Are you just filling in pinholes etc.

Yeah they were just pinholes Nick, the metal around them was all good so I just spot welded them.
                  Pedro

[Not Happy Jan]

Hello everyone
Not an update just yet just a number of questions
1. What is the best way to store a radiator?
2. What is the trick to installing the dust seals on the front end. I have ruined a set of covers due to catching then trying to install outer upper and lower on the front end. I did it quite a while ago and now the other dust seals in the inner arms have started to perish so I want to redo them all!
Can you just buy the dust seals???
3. I want to clean up the outside of the gearbox and put a protective coat on it. Not sure what product to use but also want to get all seals etc replaced and the inners checked out as a precaution.
What have others done and  in what order. I could easily wirebrush the outside but then what should I do to give it a nice protected surface? If I send it to a gearbox place would that dip it /clean it up
4. The same said about the engine. It's got a little leak of oil coming from the front of the engine since its been hanging off the engine hoist. So I thought that I would send it to the mechanics to give it the once over and maybe istall a better cam shaft. Then paint it up. How do you strip the outside of the engine??
5. What are the headers like that are advertised on ebay??? Has anyone used them and why were the Jack Meyers headers soo good.
I have a set of extractors and just wondering if its worth the money to "upgrade"
6. There is also a firestreak twin carby manifold for sale on ebay??? for about 300 bucks. Is it worth that???
Lastly i'm thinking of ceramic coating whatever I choose to run. cos it looks nice. Does it perform any other function other that cosmetic?

[EffCee]

Hello everyone
Not an update just yet just a number of questions
1. What is the best way to store a radiator?

I have found that the best way to store a radiator is to cut some plywood or MDF slightly wider than the radiator, and put bolts through either side. This will protect the core from damage. also find some short lengths of radiator hose and fit a welsh plug to one end with a hose clamp to hold it in place, the other end is screwed onto the the radiator. Fill with coolant and fit the cap. This will prevent any muck in the radiator from drying out and turning into virtual concrete. When reinstalling the radiator, give it a good flush, the coolant will help clean it and it will be good to go even years later.

2. What is the trick to installing the dust seals on the front end. I have ruined a set of covers due to catching then trying to install outer upper and lower on the front end. I did it quite a while ago and now the other dust seals in the inner arms have started to perish so I want to redo them all!
Can you just buy the dust seals???

Take your time with the dust seals,when installing them. Also take your time to ensure that the upper and lower inner pivot pins are lined up with the control arms when you screw them in. I am not aware of being able to purchase the rubbers on their own, but I am willing to be corrected.

3. I want to clean up the outside of the gearbox and put a protective coat on it. Not sure what product to use but also want to get all seals etc replaced and the inners checked out as a precaution.
What have others done and  in what order. I could easily wirebrush the outside but then what should I do to give it a nice protected surface? If I send it to a gearbox place would that dip it /clean it up

If you were to send it to a gearbox place they will disassemble the gearbox, put it in a hot wash to remove all dirt and oil, replace gaskets and bearings. If you were going to store it for any length of time, advise the gearbox place and when they reassemble it they should use a protective coating that will ensure that when you use the gearbox it will be as good as new

4. The same said about the engine. It's got a little leak of oil coming from the front of the engine since its been hanging off the engine hoist. So I thought that I would send it to the mechanics to give it the once over and maybe istall a better cam shaft. Then paint it up. How do you strip the outside of the engine??

Again, if you are going to send it to get rebuilt, leave it as is and it will be all cleaned up. If you clean it up and don't send it off for some time, and it has got water into the internals it may cost you much more to have any damage repaired.

When an engine is rebuilt it is normally put in an acid bath or "pickle". When this is done this ensures that all crud is removed from water and oil galleries and leaves a clean surface in which to commence the rebuild.

5. What are the headers like that are advertised on ebay??? Has anyone used them and why were the Jack Meyers headers soo good.
I have a set of extractors and just wondering if its worth the money to "upgrade"

The Jack Meyer headers really enabled the old grey to breathe, something that held them back with the standard manifold. Extractors also work, but may not breathe as well (depending on priomary size) and will increase the heat under the bonnet

6. There is also a firestreak twin carby manifold for sale on ebay??? for about 300 bucks. Is it worth that???
Lastly i'm thinking of ceramic coating whatever I choose to run. cos it looks nice. Does it perform any other function other that cosmetic?

Other twin carb manifolds will come up and will be generally cheaper, It really depends on whether you want a particular brand or whether you are just after any twin carb manifold. The more complete the manifold is, the more that you will pay. I am of the opinion that this is too dear for just a manifold. I would think that for that price you should be able to pick up a manifold with carbs and linkages that require an overhaul. Ceramic coating looks great, assists in the flow of intake and exhaust gases and helps to keep the engine bay cooler

[Not Happy Jan]

Thanks Keith
Very Informative!

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

Great stuff Keith.

Regards Wayne

[NO NAME]

pretty sure i baught dust seals from american autos/rare spares in sydney

[Not Happy Jan]

Another part update ... sort of.
Progress has been sporadic . I havent been to the welders supply yet and need to practice, I have been told a couple of different sized rods to get for TIG welding? Can anyone throw some light on the subject. Ive been told .8 and also 1.2 i think?
Also supposedly I get a special blend of gas
I tried to sort out what needed sanblasting /soda blasting and decided everything. I think that I will get new brake lines and fuel lines as the originals have got some rust in the lines and that can't be good! Should I give the brake shop the old lines and then fit them myself or take the car into a brake place and fit it ou on the car??? I know a few threads have mentioned new lines and was wondering what others have done
Are there places that will reco your rear springs or is that also something that you could attempt yourself. They are quite rusted and in need of some new bushes that fit between the leaves! The car sat well prior to being stripped so just a clean up or is it worth getting them retensioned. Just undo the nut and spread the bracket ?
What sort of prices would I be looking at to get an engine rebuild and a gearbox reconditioned??
My tail gate window section runners have quite a bit of surface rust on them. What is the best way to clean them up. They would be nice gloss black, but would scratch on the runners??
I'm seriously thinking of getting a sandblaster fo all the little things!
All help appreciated. It gets that duanting thinking about it that nothing ends up being done

[EffCee]

Another part update ... sort of.
Progress has been sporadic . I havent been to the welders supply yet and need to practice, I have been told a couple of different sized rods to get for TIG welding? Can anyone throw some light on the subject. Ive been told .8 and also 1.2 i think?
Also supposedly I get a special blend of gas

Sorry, I can't help with the TIG

I tried to sort out what needed sanblasting /soda blasting and decided everything.

Good Idea, it will save time and you will see where you are at with rust and repairs required.

I think that I will get new brake lines and fuel lines as the originals have got some rust in the lines and that can't be good! Should I give the brake shop the old lines and then fit them myself or take the car into a brake place and fit it ou on the car??? I know a few threads have mentioned new lines and was wondering what others have done

Again Good idea, if the brake lines have known rust in them, I bet there is more where you cannot see! Good to do the fuel lines as well. Unless you have the benders, and the double flare tools and are confident in doing the work yourself, get the work done, take it to the brake place and have them fit it up, this way it will all fit into the clips and sit where it is supposed to sit. Talk to the shop owner/manager and make sure that they understand exactly what you want done.

Are there places that will reco your rear springs or is that also something that you could attempt yourself. They are quite rusted and in need of some new bushes that fit between the leaves! The car sat well prior to being stripped so just a clean up or is it worth getting them retensioned. Just undo the nut and spread the bracket ?

Yes there are places that do recondition leaf springs, you could get them done, however if you are happy with the way that they sat and the ride that they gave before the car was dismantled. You can take the leaves apart and clean them up and reassemble them. Essentially, as you described, you straighten the brackets enough to get the leaves apart, place a clamp on the spring, such as a "G" clamp and tighten it, before undoing the centrebolt. The Nylon spring sliders that fit in between the leaves are available from reputable suppliers, IIRC mine cast about $15.00 plus postage. Sandblasted and painted the springs will look as good as new.

What sort of prices would I be looking at to get an engine rebuild and a gearbox reconditioned??

Again it depends on what needs to be done, a full engine overhaul will cost between $2,000.00-3,000.00. A reconditioned gearbox is between $500.00-$750.00 depending on what it needs

My tail gate window section runners have quite a bit of surface rust on them. What is the best way to clean them up. They would be nice gloss black, but would scratch on the runners??
I'm seriously thinking of getting a sandblaster fo all the little things!

If it is just surface rust then the best way to clean them up is in an electrolytic bath. I have attached a link to a website that will give you an idea to on what to do, this will save getting grit in the runners. IIRC these were originally zinc plated, but I am happy to be corrected.

http://www.stovebolt.com/techtips/rust/electrolytic_derusting.htm

All help appreciated. It gets that duanting thinking about it that nothing ends up being done

If you have a big enough compressor, a small blaster will save lots of time doing all the nuts and bolts etc. A good example is Fast Eddies build entitled "The Long Road" I have included a link. Also makes excellent reading.

http://fefcholden.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,5462.0.html