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Author Topic: O/T, My EH Racer.  (Read 17691 times)
colt
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« on: September 13, 2009, 05:39:21 PM »
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Car was bought in Canberra, one owner,(now 2), about 70,000 miles. It was sitting in a back yard for 20 years, with no head on the engine. The engine (which we haven't used) was seized and the car was in VERY average condition. You could see the tide marks inside, they came up to the sills. Original colour is Royal Umber and beige top. (dark brown)
Car complete and ready for practice laps.

Rear view

Engine Bay

Under Construction

Front End
« Last Edit: September 13, 2009, 05:48:54 PM by colt » Logged

colt
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« Reply #1 on: September 13, 2009, 07:58:13 PM »
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Very nice.   Grin   Grin   Grin  What events (other than practice laps) are you planning on entering? Targa Tasmania should be on your horizon.

Red
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« Reply #2 on: September 13, 2009, 08:06:56 PM »
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Very very nice!!  Did you check the one out at the 05 nats at Phillip Island in the museumn?
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« Reply #3 on: September 13, 2009, 08:55:15 PM »
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Very nice indeed Colt,

Keep the pictures comin.

Very nice.   Grin   Grin   Grin  What events (other than practice laps) are you planning on entering? Targa Tasmania should be on your horizon.

Red

Targa would be a great idea, then a fews beers and a barbie at my place Grin Grin

regards
Weddo
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« Reply #4 on: September 13, 2009, 10:20:18 PM »
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Colt,

That's a very slick EH you've got.

What's the cubic capacity of that motor (engine), how much power is she putting out - and what brand of manifold is that? And are they billet drum brakes?  Shocked

Kind regards,

Ol_Girl_58
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Ed
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« Reply #5 on: September 14, 2009, 07:33:50 AM »
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Nice one Col,

nice cage work.

Cheers

Ed
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colt
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« Reply #6 on: September 14, 2009, 05:36:43 PM »
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Thanks, guys. Will only be running at historic race meetings. I don't think they'd let me put rego on it! The plans at the moment are Goulburn the end of October, with a meeting at Eastern Creek at the end of November. Then we'll see after that.

The engine is a 173 bored to 3litres (the maximum allowed for an EH). Triple Webers on Avgas, 9 port head with mods, a solid cam, rollers, lots of work to oil galleries, enlarged sump, good oil pump. Starfire rods, cast crank with work to the oil galleries.

Standard gearbox and column shift, mods to linkages for faster shifts, button clutch, standard 3.55 diff with welded gears, baffles and lots of oil with extended breather.

Brakes are racing drums with racing linings, apart from that & the booster all standard. Mods to backing plates for better airflow over the linings.

EJ steering column for the better ratio, suspension all stock with decent springs and shockers.

As my mate who helped me build it says, we don't care what power it puts out, as long as it has bags of torque. We're working with basically 2nd & top only. 1st is only used to get it off the line.

I'll try & take some interior shots.

Colin.
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colt
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« Reply #7 on: September 14, 2009, 09:17:56 PM »
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Two interior shots. All standard fittings have to be there, everything has to work. Yes, the horn & blinkers work. Floor coverings are optional, seating can be buckets if the model came with them. (EH Prems) My passenger seat is from a Prem, with almost no padding over the springs. I'd hate to have to sit on it. With a racing drivers seat. Grey vinyl spray for the dash and dash pads. You can have any extra gauges you want.
I have sprayed the back seat with vinyl spray, vinyl on the parcel shelf. Battery on the back floor. Cold drawn steel for the roll cage.
You can have any option the model came with, hence no disc brakes or 4 speed. Anyone got a spare clock laying around they'd like to donate to the cause? It'd be nice to check the time while roaring around.

« Last Edit: September 14, 2009, 09:29:43 PM by colt » Logged

colt
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« Reply #8 on: September 14, 2009, 10:35:28 PM »
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Looks fantastic mate, great job and really well detailed. I can't wait to see it on the track. I reckon it will sound mean too. Nothing better than an angry six cylinder. (Actually there is, but a hot red is a close second  Wink)

You can keep the brakes though! Geez they look small! You're a braver man than I...

Have you thought about attaching the harness to the bar between the B pillars rather than going to the parcel shelf? Less slack/stretch in an accident.

The other thing you might want to consider is recovering the steering wheel in suede for better grip.

Finally, perhaps consider mounting the extinguisher within reach, say below your knees in front of the seat or on the transmission hump.

Hopefully we'll catch up at Eastern Creek.
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colt
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« Reply #9 on: September 15, 2009, 06:38:28 PM »
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Thanks, Eddie. All good points. The wheel is borrowed, so in time I'll be getting something different. I'm thinking it might be a bit slippery.
I have been advised about the belt location, I'm not ignoring it, I'll try it in practice laps to get a feel, if I think the slack is too great I'll change them.

As they say about drums, they only slow you, not stop. My mate had one explode at Wakefield park a couple of years ago on the front, very interesting.

Colin.
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colt
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« Reply #10 on: September 15, 2009, 09:02:28 PM »
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Looks great.  Any chance you can give some more info on the modded linkages?
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Ol_Girl_58
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« Reply #11 on: September 15, 2009, 10:36:45 PM »
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Col,

Any reason why you've chosen rubber fuel lines over stainless/braided steel?

The reason being that I've got triple Webers on my 202 - I am still to make a choice regarding fuel lines.

Cheers,

Ol_Girl_58
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Paul In Ireland
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« Reply #12 on: September 15, 2009, 11:04:02 PM »
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Colt,

When all is said and done and you get sick of playing with that car, send it over here and it will be road legal and we'll have a blast. Anything over 30 years old needs no road test or cert of compliance or any of that rubbish. I am thinking of the '71 Cadillac V8 with 500cu in (8.2l) dropped into my FC would be a blast - just following the rules....
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« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2009, 12:28:02 PM »
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Col,

Any reason why you've chosen rubber fuel lines over stainless/braided steel?

The reason being that I've got triple Webers on my 202 - I am still to make a choice regarding fuel lines.

Cheers,

Ol_Girl_58

Probably cost Josh!

the price of braided hose and fittings is not cheap...

Cheers

Ed

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Ol_Girl_58
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« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2009, 12:55:37 PM »
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Thanks Ed,

I thought as much - no issues with rubber lines splitting? I guess if modern cars are manufactured with rubber lines, there can't be too much to worry about...

Apologies for hijacking your post Col.

Cheers,

Ol_Girl_58
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colt
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« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2009, 05:13:32 PM »
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No worries, Old Girl. As Ed said, COST! Some spare hose is always taken, the way I see it, this is one of the things that gets changed at regular intervals. The electric pump is only used to prime the carbies on cold starts and as a back up for the blue motor standard type fuel pump. The main hose from the pump to the block is braided.

In the front end shot, you can see the braided brake hose. These were a hand me down, which was handy. Rubber brake hoses have been known to fail.

Colin.
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colt
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« Reply #16 on: September 23, 2009, 06:31:35 PM »
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Quick update: took the car to Wakefield Park at Goulburn today for practice. Wind blowing, rain pouring and bloody dust everywhere.

Great stuff, I was the only one with a racer, so I got the track to myself. The car went really well, no issues, then again I wasn't going real quick, this is a really slippery track in the wet and dust. A good chance to bed everything in with out over stressing.

Note to Fast Eddie, you were right about the steering wheel, it's the first thing on my shopping list. You just can't grip a vinyl wheel.

Colin.

PS: a guy in the street laps, in a twin turbo Supra, ran backwards into the tyre barrier half way down the main straight. Gave it too much after a gear change, just spun the car. Bent the flagpoles as well. Bugger!
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colt
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« Reply #17 on: September 23, 2009, 06:49:14 PM »
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Just re-reading, I missed the post asking about linkage mods.

There is a heavy spring on the linkage which selects between 1-R, 2-3. This pulls the shift lever through the 1-2 gate as you push the lever up. To get reverse you have to pull up hard against the spring.

You weld up the hole on the gear selector bracket on the gearbox. the hole where the linkage rod fits. Then redrill the hole closer to the box. This makes the length of travel you have to move the lever between 2-3 and 1-R(not that this one matters) a lot shorter. It works, I had no problems today with 2-3 or 3-2 shifts. Nice and short without being notchy or heavy.

The selector arrangement is slightly different in EH's, it should work ok for our models. I haven't tried the changes on my FE.
Colin.

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colt
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« Reply #18 on: September 24, 2009, 05:08:36 PM »
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Hi Collin,

Historic Race meeting at Baskerville last week end so here's a couple to keep you company (cold and wet)







regards
Weddo

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« Reply #19 on: December 01, 2009, 10:45:03 AM »
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63 is our car and sadly it did an engine during that weekend  Sad

Engine has since been removed, stripped down and failure spotted so continues the new engine build.  On that current set up (179) we were pushing 183.7rwks Grin



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