FC Sedan 2008 Barn Find - FNQ

[fe-ambo]

Glad to see you making progress on the sedan. You know you could always take the tv out to the shed to watch the motorsport. 

Give Brock hugs from Uncle Paul.

Cheers
Paul

http://gallery.oldholden.com/hr-hearse/

[hrpremier]

Well progress has still been that, albeit slow.  Managed to put the HQ discs and rotors onto the hr x-member and put it all back together.  Also cut the hr outrigger off and getting ready to weld the replacement FC one back on.  Just need to make sure it is central and sqaure.
Money of late has been spent on a couple of new toys. 


Got myself a welder and sanding box from a neighbour of a mate.


Don't know how to weld, but the best way to learn is to jump in and have a go.  Going to go gasless at this stage and get the knack of what I am doing and maybe move to gas later on. 

Did a bit of filling with the welder today on a old bit of steel plate which I cut with a 1mm cutting disc.  To fill the slot I used a 2.5mm Grinding disc to make a "V" either side of the cut and filled. Was not a pretty weld, but was solid. Luckily I have a grinder and managed to tidy it up.  After grinding the dags and build up back flush with the original metal I have probably a dozen pin holes which I was going to go back and try and fill also.  One of the guys at work said its not worth doing.  I would have thought any hole as such would cause problems, ie waekness, water sitting etc. What is the concensous on this with other members.



Also the viewing plastic in the lid of this Sandblasting box is looking raggered.  Looks like a contact over the plastic top and bottom to protect the plastic itselfwhich is in good clear condition.  Is this contact something that can be replaced like a tear off on a dirt bike helmet or do I need to replace the whole Plastic insert?

As per usual more updates in coming weeks.   Stay tuned.
Young fellas head has repaired and hes ready for his next adventure.............

Jase

http://gallery.oldholden.com/hrpremier/

[mcl1959]

I would say the contact is supposed to be removed before you start. The perspex will be a lot more resistant to the grit than the soft plastic contact.

Ken

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

I bought one of those blast cabinets almost new, it came with replacement plastics to stick on once the other is worn. Not unlike overhead projector sheets 

[Dave88]

Yep, you can definately buy the protective film for those blast cabinets. I wouldn't recommend using it without the film in place.

Also regarding the mig, I personally found it much easier to weld with gas than without. If you can borrow a bottle to try it out, it'd be worth giving it a go for comparisons sake. Looks like you've bought a nice unit!

[hrpremier]

Merry Christmas   


Have been a busy boy over the christmas break.  Managed to get hold of a engine crane for a few days, and my plan was to dummy fit in the engine into the engine bay.  I made up some brackets using 5mm glav steel to mount the engine onto using dimensions from the donor car. RH mount 39.95 degrees and LH Mount @ 35 degrees. Also got the engine at a 4.35 degree slant backwards as the genuine example measures. Also took the sump off as everyone I have researched has trouble with the clearance to the HR X Member, to assisit in the fitting of the engine.








 
Tonight I placed the mounts into position and put the engine onto them and all fits in the engine bay nicely.  A little to nicely.  At the current engine height placement I have approx 30mm clearance on the top to the inside of the hood and 200mm from the bottom of the block to the HR X member.  I measured the sump at its deepest point and it measures at 168mm.  With this in mind in theory I shoud have 32mm clearence at the end of the day between bottom of sump and X member.  Have talked myself into lowering the engine another 15mm (thinking the lower the better) so that should still leave 17mm before the sump fowls the HR X Member.  The only future problem I can think of is it may be difficult to get to the sump plug to drain the oil.  I guess this can be overcome by re-tapping a thread at a more accessable point. Am I completely wrong in my thinking, and have I not measured things correctly. I must be wrong ,  as this seems to be a concern for all other V6 conversions I have seen.  From all accounts other trailblazers before me have made a sump of their own with the deep dish at the rear or bought a purpose built manufactured one done from the likes of CRS.  If buying one of theses do they use the same genuine O ring style gasket as genuine sumps door do they have their own. (Just thinking for future parts availability.)

The other problem is the oil filter fits between the Block and the Y frame but I will not be able to remove filter once unscrewed when changing due to the Y frame not allowing clearance.  is there a 90 degree adaptor which can be used to bring the oil filter towards the radiator?

I know its a lot to ask but hey, the forum has not let me down in the past so any assistance is welcomed.

Jase

http://gallery.oldholden.com/hrpremier/

[FCOV6]

Sump gasket will stay the same, they usually just cut the bottom off and spin it around and weld back on or create one from scratch using the base (block side ) of the original sump.

[hrpremier]

Lets just say last night was the end to a shit day.


I think I answered my own question.  I put the sump on the V6 engine again last night and welded the U Bracket onto my angled plate and the engine went in, but I miscalculated the amount to cut off the right had bracket and the engine now sits at a lean of 4 degrees from left to right so its not true and square.



Then I went to put the transmission onto the back of the engine.  After much swearing, abuse and contemplating I decided it was not going to happen the way I wanted. Came to the conclision the engine and gearbox will have to go in as one piece so out came the engine again and I spent the couple of hours wrestling with the auto trans trying to square the thing onto the block. Not an easy feat when the engine is balancing on the deep section of the sump and rocking around as you try to guide and wriggle the trans into place.  Had to take the torque convertor off the flywheel place it in the bell housing and the put into place.  Much easier this way.  Just took me to stand back and reasses the situation to come up with the solution. About 12.45am this morning I called it quits with the engine and trans married to each other so I hypothetically kicked the dog and went to bed.

The sump had approx 8 - 10mm clearence to the HR X Member but I believe at the current placement the bell housing was going to interfere with the firewall and Im not keen on the idea of modifying the firewall to much. I've come to the conclusion thats why the engine will need to be dropped lower again in the engine bay, and now I need to redesign my engine mounts.

Oh well, bitching on the forum may vent some frustration but does not get any work done.  Back to the drawing board as they say.

Jase

http://gallery.oldholden.com/hrpremier/

[gwuthie]

Well i was wondering how people had gone with the sump issue.
My engineer has allowed me to notch the crossmember alot so that helps too. I want to use standard trans tunnel if possible so need the engine real low.

On fitting trans to engine: should always have torque conv in trans first then mount to eng. screw seal otherwise.

go the v6!

[hrpremier]

Well its been a long time since i posted any update on here.

Thats because there has not been a great deal to post about of late. 

The bride has gone back to chefing which means she now works weekends and has Monday Tuesdays off and as a result I am left to babysit the rugrats, (although I dont think you can call it babysitting if they're your own ..................... thats just called parenting)

On top of that I have been putting it back together so it is mobile again as a move interstate is on the cards before the year is out.

I have however stripped with a wirewheel the inner and outer of the bootlid and primed (due to the humidity if you leave it any more than two days brown surface rust appears on my nice shiney silver panels.











Im not to keen on stripping anymore panels before we decide if/when we shift, but Im sure as I cant just leave it, it will get the better of me and the doors will be next.

[hrpremier]

All panels primed will be stripped back again at time of repair.  At this stage its just nice to know what i am dealing with regarding rust etc.


Made this bracket for the VS wiper motor to mount onto in the original location. 


On top of that I have stripped the diff from the VS V6 and played with ideas on how to install it. After looking at Injected V8 FC's thread I think I may finalise on that concept.  May look into flaring the rear guards and not have to alter the VS diff at all.  If anyone on here can tell me if it can't be done that may save me some dramas.


Pulled the diff apart and looked at getting it shortened, but after a lot of questions and research it turns out I can't find anyone around town willing to give it a go.  It seems my best option is to transit the diff to Brisbane some 2000+ kms away and get someone there to do it and then pay to bring it all the way back.  I even contemplated on doing it myself (ie: just have a go but quickly realised I dont have the tools and knowledge to attempt and would only fail dismaly). Put it back together again and worry about that later if at all (see above)

After I placed the diff under the car I quickly realised the lower control arms in their original brackets lined up the with FC Chassis quite nicely so I made some more brackets and welded them ont  my project.  Once Im back down South I will pull it out again and help to get it shortened will not be anywhere near as far away. Living in the tropics is great but we really are a long way from anywhere. I know its not as bad as the west contingent but I am sure Queensland number plates should read " The Backwards State" not " The Sunshine State"


I decided the existing brackets on the chassis for the front of the rear leaf springs needed to go, as this is where my new brackets for the lower control arms would be welded into place.  Great idea in theory but after spending a considerable time under the car over a period of time grinding away the existing bracket I soon realised what a prick of a job it was.  Cutting one part away from the chassis was ok but grinding the rest off.    - - >:(Limited space = limited movemnet = limited access.  I am just glad that job is behind me now as it would not be adviseable of me to let you know how i really felt about it as little eyes have access to theses pages. Cant wait to build a rotissary once I move.


I then sourced some 30mm round piping amd welded a solid plate to one end and then welded that to the chassis creating for transit purposes a solid shock absorber so to speak.  It has a number of holes on the bottom so I can lower it or raise it and see how the car sits . Again the VS commodore shockie brackets on the diff almost line up with the FC Chassis perfectly (I did say almost)


After a couple of months with no diff the car is now mobile again meaning I can push it in and out of the shed, allowing me access to work and or look at other tasks.  It sounds lame and silly but it feels good just having it mobile again.

As you can see I have also removed the commodore from the shed allowing me plenty of room to work.  The car is now centred and it looks like I have a big shed again. Plus having a clean shed does not hurt for open inspections.  [/size]


I will try not to leave it so long to post again but things went so slowly there for a while it feels like you really make little gain each time you work on it.

The whole concept of this has been to place as much of the donor car into place on the project so its less to shift home.


Jase

[fe-ambo]

About time you posted some new photos up.
But it appears you havent done nothing since I was there 

Im not to keen on stripping anymore panels before we decide if/when we shift, but Im sure as I cant just leave it, it will get the better of me and the doors will be next.

"If/when" Does that mean I have got the HR in my garage for a bit more time?
Cheers
Paul

[hrpremier]

Ease up there sunshine ..................................

Ive manufactured and installed the solid make shift shockers, installed the tail lights, headlights, front bar, front indicators, rear calipers and sway bar.  All things which can be bolted onto the car which is less to shift home singulary (if thats even a word - if not I've just invented it and urge all to start using it in every day conversation) 

I admit most ofthose things you cant see or the latest picture is not downloaded of the camera yet but I have been fiddling with it still.

Will call you regarding hr. 

Jase

For all the latest pics visit my oldholden shed in the link below as there are more pics in there.  I hate to lose![/size]

[Ed]

Are you going to gusset the lower link brackets for strength?

Is that final pic with the comm diff fitted?  appears to be a good fit with minimal flaring required?

Jason (fevanv6) shortened his diff himself in FNQ, you may want to see his thread how he acheived it.  You need a mate with a lathe!

Cheers

Ed

[hrpremier]

Yeah Ive met Jason (fevanv6) a couple of times and spoke to him on the matter when he was here in Cairns, and would have paid him to do mine when he had access to the equipment, but now he is in Darwin its not an option.  I have got hold of his tool maker up her to redo the splines as well but not much point unless the diff tubes get done at the same time.  I used to travel throughout Victoria with a mate racing gokarts and Im sure his dad has all the tools required to do this job and will hit him up when I return to SA.

Yeah.  The brackets for the lower control arms are just there for the purpose of transit at this stage.  They are only tack welded on so easy to remove when I get re-settled, but will use them as a template for the final design later on.  Not getting to excited until I find an engineer at my new residence so that way I can meet all his requirements as apposed to someone here who may have differnt ideas to someone else. 

Yeah the rear wheels fit on the diff with minimal exposure each side, (have not measured but looking at it it would be 5 -10mm each side) but everyone else seems to find a reason to cut the diff so I dont know what to do.

Jase

[fe-ambo]

Got a bite, 

As for your HR in my shed, as I said to you sometime ago, there is room for it and with the $50 week rent I am happy for it to stay as long as required.   

Keep an eye on the post, there will be a disc coming with the HD HR Nationals photos early next week. In the meantime you can look at the link below for photos. 

Cheers
Paul

[JB]

HR isn't a ute is it, I have a tailgate that I would like to sell...

JB

[fe-ambo]

Sorry to steal your post Jason,

Jason's HR is a X2 Premier sedan, my HR's are a Premier sedan and a panelvan hearse.
I might be interested in a spare tailgate. Send me a PM with details.

Cheers
Paul

[pedro]

G'day Jase, dud time to have to move in the middle of your project, are they standard commodore wheels on the front? it's a bit hard to see in the pics, looks like there's plenty of clearance to the guards.
          Pedro

[hrpremier]

Pedro,
 Yes they are the standard 15in rims and tyres off the V6 Executive.  Shit Loads of room at overall, except minimal at the front of the wheel arch.  Will post a better picture tonight.  On saying that they are the commodore rims on the HQ Rotors " Dont want to start this argument again) but they will be changed down the track.  Need a set of those flash new waterjet cut adaptors you just aquired.

Plan on getting around this problem of lack of space on the front by low profile tyres 

Jase