The New Project

[Rusty_T]

 



Mmmm. Good Question Paul,

 I had it in mind to do it the same as the car. A Mat / Satin Black.

Cheers Russ

[Not Happy Jan]

Hey Rusty
Do you spray the red oxide paint on???
Nick

[Rusty_T]

Nick,

I put it on with a 3" brush. Went on ok and is fairly thick. There's more to rub off to a smoooth flat finish. High Fill is after oxide (I hope). That will be sprayed on. When I start, I'll put pics up of the start, the mess I make and the finished product. I should sell tickets to the event.

Rusty

[Rusty_T]

 

Hi all,

Been a while. I'm quite happy with the progress on the ute as is my grand daughter. So here we go. A pic is worth a thousand words.





There has also been a colour change. I was going for gray with white roof, but now it will be satin black with white roof. Just to be different. Looks pretty good at the moment.









Grand daughter loves it. Will have her name scrolled on the tailgate and the boys on the other 2.

More to follow.

Rusty

[zulu]

Thats looking great Rusty, I like the new colour choice, little Emily would have to be happy with that!

Cheers, Gary

[Ed]

looks good Rusty, didnt pick you for a flat black kinda guy.

CHeers

Ed

[graham_fuller]

Great job Rusty. When your finished you come and help me.
Cheers,
Graham

[fe350chev]

Hi

That looks cool. Can you pls do a side on pic in normal light so i can see what flat black looks like against the white? Im tossing up whether to do mine a flatter bacl and white???

Cheers

Deano.

[Rusty_T]

 

Deano,

It hasn't been painted down the sides as yet. When it is I'll put up a pic.

Rusty

[fe350chev]

  funny asw, can't tell with the door open lol. or any panel that contrasts well thanks.

[Rusty_T]

 

Hi all ,

Another change. Engine bay now gloss black. Chrome hinges.







It looks better than the picture.

Cheers Russ

[ridgey_didge]

That post needs to come with a "wear your sungalsses" warning. 

Looks good.

Cheers
David

[TTV6FC]

It looks better than the picture.

Well it looks awesome in the pictures so it must look sensational in real life!Well done mate,keep it up.

[fe350chev]

Its good mate. Wish I was at that stage 

[Rusty_T]

 

I'm about to put the Motor, Engine ,Power plant into the ute, just to get it off the floor. I took the head off it and found a burnt valve so it's currently at Heads Plus in Penrith having new valves fitted. In the mean time I intend to rewire the ute myself and have a coupla questions.

. What size wire (Amp wise) do I use? and

. The motor had an alternator fitted. What do I need to do to keep the Alternator?

Any help/ Advice would be appreciated

Thanks Rusty

[ardiesse]

Rusty,

I've just repaired the wiring harness in my FC.  There are a couple of ways of proceeding -

First is to call Vintage Wiring Harnesses and get them to make up a new harness.  They can make custom harnesses, so if you tell them that you have an FC ute with an alternator and (say) indicators, the harness will be made to suit.

Easier for you, but costs a few hundred.

Or if you want to wire the car yourself, the best way is to use the car's existing harness as a starting point, and add the extra circuits you require.  If you go this way, it's a good idea to get a roll of black cloth tape and a roll of harness tape (which is PVC tape with no adhesive, available from Vintage Wiring Harnesses).  You'll have to slit the old harness tape, carefully, to avoid cutting the wires, and then it unravels.

For any circuit apart from the headlights and generator/alternator, you can use 18 gauge (alias 1 square mm) wire.  Headlights should be probably 14 gauge (2.5 sq. mm), but the headlight wiring shouldn't need replacing unless it's been fried.  For the alternator B+ lead, go 12 gauge (3 sq. mm), which should be good for 30 amps.

If the alternator has an in-built regulator, then you need to connect the B+ terminal (that's the big screw terminal on the back) to the battery positive, either at the battery terminal clamp, or at the starter motor.  The IND terminal of the alternator connects to the GEN lamp lead in the harness.  The GEN lamp lead is the thinner of the two brown wires that connect to the "D" terminal of the generator regulator.

With an alternator fitted, you don't need the generator-to-regulator D wire (fat, brown), nor the generator-to-regulator F wire (thin, blue).  Strictly speaking, you don't need the red B wire that goes to the generator regulator, except that the red power lead for the horn attaches to the regulator's B terminal.

Probably too much info . . .

Rob

[Rusty_T]

 

Thanks Rob.

 I'll give it a go anyway. I bought the harness for the wagon from vintage. Very good and everything worked first time. Very impressed. Anyway the motor is off the floor and back where it should be, I'm not tripping over it.







Cheers Rusty

[fcwrangler]

Rusty, do'nt thik it will go all that well, seems to be a few things missing!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! seriously though, it looks like it's starting to take shape, hopefully it'll be on the road before to long.
Jim

[Rusty_T]

 

Hi all.

 Checked out the wire old harness from the wagon and it's in pretty good nick. So it went in yesterday and the rear section will be in today. I've been putting the hanging panels on as well to make sure they fit.This is it thus far.







Still have a bit to do , but it is coming along steadily.

Cheers Rusty

[Old_Mt_Isa_Boy]

Still have a bit to do , but it is coming along steadily.

Up on all 4's and all the panels back on is not a bad position to be in, very steady I would say.

Regards

Wayne b