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bomer
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« on: December 30, 2008, 10:09:30 PM » |
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hi the floor in my fe ute is totally shot and was wondering if i could replace it with sheet metal or plate and not the rare spares floor pans if so how thick should i use
thanking you in advance
adam
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #1 on: December 31, 2008, 12:46:40 AM » |
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You could replace it with flat steel, 1.2 would be about right I guess, the reasons to use a repro is for the shape and for the pressed sections that add strength and reduce road noise through vibration of a flat panel. If you had access to a bead roller or similar and are handy with a welder then go for your life.
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bomer
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« Reply #2 on: December 31, 2008, 04:34:43 AM » |
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yeah i thought as much, i was going to make it slightly thicker to over come the strenth problem and as for the noise i have a plan for the inside that will stop that  |
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mcl1959
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« Reply #3 on: December 31, 2008, 11:29:40 AM » |
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Honestly it's hard enough to make replacement pieces for rust repair where there is no repro available, why would you want to hand make pieces which are available?
They don't cost a fortune and make life so much easier.
Ken
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Paul In Ireland
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« Reply #4 on: January 02, 2009, 01:09:58 PM » |
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What does a set of floor pans cost anyway?
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The International FE FC Fleet of Ireland
Education is where you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't.
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Paul In Ireland
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« Reply #5 on: January 02, 2009, 01:13:09 PM » |
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Its OK - I had a look - $65 each and you only need 2? Seems pretty cheap to me too.
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The International FE FC Fleet of Ireland
Education is where you read the fine print. Experience is what you get when you don't.
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TTV6FC
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« Reply #6 on: January 02, 2009, 07:02:17 PM » |
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Go with the re pro's.As Ken said.It's hard enough to make them fit without making them from scratch.   |
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Run your fingers over my Holden and I'll run my Holden over your fingers!!!!
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bomer
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« Reply #7 on: January 04, 2009, 05:00:52 PM » |
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are you sure that the repo floor pans go from the rear tray to half up the fire wall because thats the sort of rust im having to cut out
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JB
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« Reply #8 on: January 04, 2009, 05:58:09 PM » |
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Have a look at the rare spares site and there are pictures for you to look at re the rust repair sections. I have only done a cuple of floors where as the guys that first replied to your posts have put dozens in. They are the goods and if you need to replace more then are a great starting point.
Cheers
Jason.
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Phone +64 223509263
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mcl1959
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« Reply #9 on: January 04, 2009, 09:44:06 PM » |
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Front floor pans go to about 3 inches below the join in the firewall to about 3 inches from the hump in the centre of the floor. The rear floor pan goes from about 3 inches from the hump in the centre to the rear seat base (the ute has the same floor pan as the sedan). You will need to make some small pieces near the centre pillars and where the seat base curves around to the quarter panel. There are no sections available for the section inside the seat base and around the fuel tank, so you would need to make those. Don't eliminate the seat base section as this adds structurally to the floor of the car.
If your ute is typical of others left out in the weather, the section around the tank will be pretty bad as well as in the panels beside the spare wheel door and the lower quarter panels. All these will have to be hand made (unless you can find a donor wagon for the tank section) so they will give you plenty of practice with your metalwork skills.
Ken
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bomer
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« Reply #10 on: January 04, 2009, 11:24:02 PM » |
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my seat supports are rusted off at the sills on both sides as to is the cross member that the gear box bolts to all the top floor in the rear is gone and the bottom floor around the fuel tank is clovered in moss and i haven't looked into it yet i also have rust in the bottom of my passenger b pillar as far as the panels go i only have rust around the rear wheel arches
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