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Author Topic: Lowering Fe  (Read 7409 times)
torana/mad
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« on: January 10, 2008, 09:15:57 PM »
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Hi guys im new to the older holden club as old holden's to me have always been torana's ,so i have just picked up my first Fe as i have always loved the look of them. She's alittle rusty but its got something about it in its sad state that i like. And the look im after is more ratrod style if you call it that but is going to be my daily driver so im going to fix up the rust, lower it as much as i can without spending the earth, powder coat the 13"s and get whitewall's, thats the plan anyways  Wink

Now i know you have all been asked this and i did do a search but i couldnt find anything that was to clear enough for me  Grin so i will ask anyways, How low can you go without causing problems and what would be the best way to do this? I talked to pedders and they do 2" lower springs though i know kmac do customs but im sure if i get 3" made up it will ride the bump stops?? or go 2" drop stubs and 2" springs? and just reset the rear to the same height (cost getting up there from what i have seen but sounds more safe)

So please if you can let me know what you think, help is really needed.

Thanks, Ash.
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Sideplate
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« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2008, 09:33:00 PM »
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Anglegrinder+Lowering Blocks= Nice LOW FE.
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mcl1959
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« Reply #2 on: January 11, 2008, 08:23:29 AM »
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You can get 3 inch drop on the front and cut down the bump stops by half and be OK, but that would be about the limit to retain some suspension travel. There are no dropped stubs for FE FC front end.

Ken
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torana/mad
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« Reply #3 on: January 11, 2008, 08:06:15 PM »
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Thanks Ken, yeah i stuffed up as i checked again and rodshop doesnt do them as i first thought. Dam shame i was thinking 2" drop stubs and 3'' kmac's would have it sitting sweet  Grin and dont really want to start thinking about the cost of a hr front as i think it steers fine and dont have endless funds (does have rebuilt front end with stiffer springs and shocks aswell)

So i guess 3'' lower in the springs will be about all i can get.

Thanks again.

Ash.
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ratbox
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« Reply #4 on: January 11, 2008, 08:16:43 PM »
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didn't i read somewhere on here that you can use early '50's chev stub axels to give a 2" drop
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mcl1959
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« Reply #5 on: January 11, 2008, 09:01:09 PM »
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I do remember reading that but I have not been able to check how it works - would like to see some photos or details on what has to be done to make them fit.

Ken
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waynos
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« Reply #6 on: January 12, 2008, 09:12:23 AM »
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is cutting the bump rubbers legal to engineer?heard you can get smaller ones
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #7 on: January 12, 2008, 09:23:03 AM »
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didn't i read somewhere on here that you can use early '50's chev stub axels to give a 2" drop
Fat Jacks or some other rod shop does them in the states, I can remember reading a tech article about them.
If you are at all handy with a spanner DON'T go to Pedders,  Kmacs etc, find your local spring manufacturer and buy them over the counter, you'll save heaps.
Resetting rear springs can get expensive though, reversed eyes etc to get them really low, so as Sideplate mentioned get some big lowering blocks.
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waynos
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« Reply #8 on: January 12, 2008, 09:38:23 AM »
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are lowering blocks legal in all states?scared to put them on before engineers report
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mcl1959
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« Reply #9 on: January 12, 2008, 11:27:53 AM »
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Waynos, depends what state you are in - your local RTA can give you guidelines for modified vehicles or you can see them on the web.

Lowering blocks are legal, in Vic, cut springs and cut bump rubbers are not.

Ken
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jack_fc
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« Reply #10 on: January 12, 2008, 02:05:46 PM »
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shorter bump stops available from Bursons, probably Repco and others as well. i think bump stops for FE thru to at least HG are same - others here will know for sure
cheers jack
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"when I was a young lout, it was all about sex, drugs, rock'n'roll, beer and hot Holdens. Now I'm an old lout, but I've still got the old Holdens and beer..."
Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #11 on: January 12, 2008, 06:23:28 PM »
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Lowering blocks are legal, in Vic, cut springs and cut bump rubbers are not.
Same goes for SA.

torana/mad it's a good idea to put your location in your sig or profile.
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torana/mad
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« Reply #12 on: January 12, 2008, 09:14:37 PM »
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Thanks guys for the info, looking for 50's chevy stubs sounds alittle hit and miss unless someone can say for sure they fitup and the other thing is that the fe came with some firm (yellow??) springs in it so i might cut a coil off and see how i go and if that fails i will get some made and blocks in the rear.

Thanks again guys.

Ash

Oh and to wynos i had and lc torana setup for alittle track work and it was about 1/2" from the bumpstop that was cut in 1/2 and engineer didnt say it was a problem, though the car was that stiff it still wouldnt have hit and this was in NSW
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waynos
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« Reply #13 on: January 13, 2008, 01:28:56 PM »
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does anyone know how much travel is needed for bumps i thought it was more than an inch,sure if your torry was stiff ,but half inch sounds awfully tight.think i had more than an inch on my hd and it would still bottom out.also speaking of chopped springs just pulled mine out .one of the coils is bent so bad it is touching the other,always chopped em before but now i'm thinking better get some made.does anyone know somewhere cheap in sydney,pedders quoted $170 for front springs.
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Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius
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« Reply #14 on: January 13, 2008, 04:15:33 PM »
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Here's a link to the mob I got my springs from, I dare say they post.
http://www.industrialsprings.com.au/aurora.htm
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