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Author Topic: Front Door Top Deep Screw  (Read 4969 times)
Oggz
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« on: May 21, 2016, 11:04:49 PM »
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Hi guys, trying to remove the front drivers door to gain access to rust, I have all screws except the top deep screw loose.

I have tried heat on the front side, removed the guard to get access to the back captured nut and heated that too.

Been bashing away with an impact wrench, ended up hammering the webbing between thumb and finger then gave up for the night.

Any tips? could the fact that all the other screws are loose be putting extra weight on this one?

Cheers
Oggz
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DCE80
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« Reply #1 on: May 22, 2016, 08:29:13 AM »
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Impact driver should move it regardless of the other screws being installed or not. If it's a dual action driver that is set in correct direction with heat applied and is still  stubborn you might just have to drill. If you're not in a hurry, spray with crc wd40 or equivalent few times a day for couple of days and try again cold then with heat. If that doesn't work drill small pilot hole in centre as best you can. Step drills up until you just see root of thread appear that way you can run a tap through and retain the captive nut. I'd be tempted to drill from the back and retain head at first so when you have removed some metal you could heat internally and have another crack with impact driver.
Hope that makes sense. Have had plenty of practice myself unfortunately.
Dan
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mcl1959
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« Reply #2 on: May 22, 2016, 03:24:04 PM »
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Wow, I've never found one that tight that heat and an impact driver would not budge  Huh
I'm thinking like Dan that drilling it out is the best option. It's not hard to fashion up a new captive nut and holder even if it does end up going pear shaped.

Ken
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Longman
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« Reply #3 on: May 22, 2016, 04:34:12 PM »
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I had that issue mate. Both front doors. I ended up drilling through the centre and using a screw extractor. Finally got them out without damaging the thread.
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surferboy
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« Reply #4 on: May 22, 2016, 05:20:31 PM »
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I had the same problem

I gave up and just paid somebody else to do it

 Grin


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cruisin's great with a 58
Errol62
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« Reply #5 on: May 22, 2016, 10:10:33 PM »
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I had a lot of success today using my impact Phillips and flat head bits on the pneumatic rattle gun. The manual driver has a half inch drive. Cheapie from supacheap driver and gun.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Oggz
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« Reply #6 on: May 24, 2016, 10:59:01 PM »
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Thanks for the insight guys, although seriously disheartening when some like Ken says that  Sad, might just take a few concrete pills and hit the bastard harder, do like that rattle gun idea tho...

Oggz
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Longman
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« Reply #7 on: May 25, 2016, 08:13:29 AM »
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Just take care, if they are that stuck, they could snap off inside.
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Glen
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« Reply #8 on: May 25, 2016, 08:46:03 PM »
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Chemsearch make an arosol product called "Yeild" it sprays on like CRC and has a passive dissolving effect on the expanded rust. I hesitate to use the word oxidising. Keep spraying it on there over a few days and it eventually penetrates and the bolt magically loosens. I was sceptical then a sales rep gave me a free sample and it actually worked. Was very expesive though.
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FireKraka
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« Reply #9 on: May 26, 2016, 01:21:40 PM »
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Loctite also make a product called Freeze and Release I have some cans in my companies workshop but have not tried it yet it is supposed to do the same as what glen said.

Regards
Neil H
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