Congratulations Zac.
There’s nothing better than a ‘stock as a rock’ FE Holden.
Irrespective of whether it’s your first or last car.
Colour schemes (exterior and interior trim) are great too.
Good luck with the restoration.

Good overall condition shell. Minor surface rust in a few places. A few small holes in RHR floor pan. Small area of roof damage directly above driver’s door. Evidence of Rust repair near bottom of Left Hand  ‘A’ pillar (near junction with outer sill). Price $2500, firm. Located in Melbourne’s Inner East. (Note:    Body I.D. Plate (IS NOW) included).

Cheers,
Chris

(Ps. I can email photos directly to (genuinely interested) forum members. PM me.)

Update; I have now located the original Body Identification plate, which is included, free of charge!

Good overall condition shell. Minor surface rust in a few places. A few small holes in RHR floor pan. Small area of roof damage directly above driver’s door. Evidence of Rust repair near bottom of Left Hand  ‘A’ pillar (near junction with outer sill). Price $2500, firm. Located in Melbourne’s Inner East. (Note: No Body I.D. Plate included).

Cheers,
Chris

(Ps. I can email photos directly to (genuinely interested) forum members. PM me.)

Thanks very much for your responses gentlemen. That’s probably as close a figure as anyone is ever going to come up with.

Sorry for resurrecting such an ancient topic, but the question remains, what is the combined weight of the two front guards and the front subframe so that we may finally know the ‘correct weight’ of a bare Sedan body shell (in the process of selling one at the moment and a prospective ‘buyer’ is asking.)

Amen to all of that.
I first developed an interest in these beautiful cars as a kid in the '60's when my Uncle bought himself a white and red (FC) Special Station Sedan.

Thanks for the helpful advice Ken. Water with an additive sounds good to me.

Chris

Seeing how FE production continued up until April '58, I agree with the 'final concept' designation.
(Matter of fact, my FE wagon is a '58!  )

Got it in one RET, the FC was (as you have so clearly pointed out) just a cheaper version of the real thing. The mighty FE! 

Need to get rid of my FE wagon radiator’s scaly contents and don’t want to botch the refill. What are the best recommendations regarding refilling, do I use Type B (premixed) Standard Radiator Coolant, or just tap water with an anti-corrosion concentrate added? The motor currently has no overheating issues and I aim to keep it that way.
(Also planning on using Nulon Radiator Flush & Clean beforehand (after the motor’s at normal operating temperature).

I don't think the clutch is in the wrong way.  If it is in the wrong way, it disengages freely, but makes an awful racket when you try to release the clutch.

If the hydraulic system is in order (clutch fork moves about an inch when you depress the pedal), then the clutch driven plate is most likely stuck to the flywheel.

The remedy is fairly brutal.  You will need a long, clear driveway: warm the motor up first.  Then, with the engine stopped, engage first gear, but keep the clutch pedal fully depressed.  With foot off the accelerator, start the motor (and yes, the car will move).  Once the car's moving at idle speed in first, keep the clutch pedal to the floor, give it a good squirt of throttle and then back off.  Repeat the cycle as often as needed, until the clutch plate breaks free.

The alternative is a lot of work:  drop the gearbox, unbolt the pressure plate, free the clutch, and reassemble.

Best of luck.

Rob

Doh!!
Sorry to revive an ancient thread but after a few attempts at bleeding an 'already bled' clutch system', Rob's driveway solution did the trick! Many thanks for all the helpful replies.

[Hill]

"Book(ed) 'em Dano, 101".
We'll be at the 'Red Earth'.
See you all in Broken Down err Hill!

Vern; answers to all four of your questions is, ‘Yes’.
Clutch fluid level is as it should be.
I have checked my ‘clutch pedal free travel’ -way too much at 15/16” (should be 1/8”).
Clutch Pedal (over-centre) spring measurement is off as well. Both need adjustment.
Tomorrow, weather permitting, I will check the clutch fork operating rod free travel. Hopefully the fix will lie somewhere within these 3 Clutch Control adjustments.
Thanks for everyone’s helpful responses.

After a 5 month hibernation (following a badly needed ‘rings and bearings’ replacement job), we fired up the FE wagon (motor purring like a kitten) only to hear (and feel) a nasty clashing of gears after depressing the clutch and as soon as I attempt to shift into first. I seem to be able to select all gears with the motor off, albeit not quite as smoothly as seemed to be the case previously. What is most likely to be the cause of this issue?

That nails it.
Thanks very much for your help. I guess I now have some realignment modifications to do, front and back!

Many thanks for the photo.
If it’s not too much trouble, a dimension from the centre of your rotisserie’s front pivot tube to the bottom of that elongated ‘wiper motor mounting’ hole on the firewall, would be great.
At present, mine’s only about 20mm below, yours looks to be about 180-190mm.
Thanks again.

Thanks for the responses JB and Harv.
Mine is a stock restoration, so whatever I 'do' with  the floor will (hopefully) be very close to what's there now (minus quite a few rusty voids).
Looks like my rear mounting height is within range but my 'front' is way too high.
Time to blow some cobwebs off the trusty MIG.
Cheers again,

Can anyone help with a vertical location for this? I need to rework my rotisserie and want to get it right the first time (...which now becomes the second time, I guess)😣
Cheers,

1 3/8" is the camshaft plug diameter. Depth is as per the rest of the welch plugs.

Fully aware of that oil level marking in the oilbath aircleaners- I just wanted to know how many millilitres of oil I needed to buy (too lazy to measure it for myself )