FE-FC Holden Discussion Forum

It's amazing what you find when things break !

I'm working on the theory that this ISN"T the original FC pedal
What is it ?

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/pic2_zps8439b7e7.jpg) (http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/pic1_zps032ad6fe.jpg)

The pedal started to stick and not return fully (sat on 1000revs) unless I pulled it back up with my toe.
Before long (and before I got around to my mechanic checking it out)
IT BROKE  ::)

pulling the interior out I found bits of iron filings and what appeared to be the end of a split pin at the base of the pedal
So I pushed another split pin through two holes that matched up and now the pedal is almost as good as new.
I'm guessing a split pin isn't the correct or ideal fix for my pedal
What should be there ? and how does it fit together correctly ?
OR is this another Dodgy Brothers Home Made Modification  ::) :o ???

The pedal and linkages are all different to the "ugly ducklings" which I'm guessing is more original
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/pic3_zpsd5865bfb.jpg)

Ta
surferboy
 8) 8) 8)

I have a new rares one il have a look tonight unless someone beats me to it.

Your forum name reminds me of a mishap with my accelerator.

I had one of those surfie pedals the huge foot that "clamps" to the original accelerator i had my foot down one day and the surfie pedal slid down holding full throttle on the old girl.

I removed it after that.


Pete

Surferboy

With your big foot you might be better off with a rares cable accelerator set up, takes the accelerator off the floor and mounts it on the firewall

Gary

The pedal is original equipment, albeit with some running repairs made to it. These pedals have no lubrication in the pivot point so wear out over time. They also have a tendency to rust and bend where the tabs are attached to the rubber. A repro pedal is available and well worth getting in your case.

Ken

Hey Surferboy,
You could cover it with a repo accelerator heel pad, on sale on evilbay at the moment ;D ;D ;D

Back again  ::)

Got the dodgy rusty pin fixed (back in 2013... not this morning)

But now the pedal isn't working correctly again
Heres some pics of the set up


(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa1_zpst3d2aa0z.jpg) ($2)
the back of the pedal.
now it seems this part (arrowed) must be worn ? It moves and twists when you touch the pedal
ALSO...   how is the actual pedal connected to the U shaped piece ? (the one that goes from here and across to where the new bolt screws through it) as it seems to be loose/worn at this point also  ???

The rest of the setup.  It's a mix of some original(?) linkage and new cable bits
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa2_zpsjqj3ibsh.jpg) ($2)
where it comes through the floorboards

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa3_zpso4kpe60q.jpg) ($2)
up the firewall

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa4_zps0wk6jwrn.jpg) ($2)
and pivots

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa5_zpsw3gggrrz.jpg) ($2)
and then ...
it converts to a cable

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa6_zpsow286dlj.jpg) ($2)
which runs around the firewall to the carby.

it was done about 12 years ago (when a lot of dodgy work was done by a supposedly reputable modifier )
it has never worked 100% right (theres a spot when trying to accelerate very slowly where it jumps and accelerates quickly)
I think the geometry and angles of pivoting are probably wrong (but I know nothing about geometry and pivoting things  ::))



Just lately I have noticed that the pedal doesn't sit as upright as it normally does
it moves to the left as you push it down  (putting the toe of my big right foot behind the brake pedal)
and goes to the floor without getting proper acceleration

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa7_zpsrgfxoca1.jpg) ($2)(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa8_zpsy82b1mva.jpg) ($2)(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/aaa9_zpsw0qutves.jpg) ($2)
A where it usually sits
B where it currently sits
C pushed down it pivots off to the left

Is this a repairable problem or replace worn out parts ?
What parts are available (new ? secondhand?)

Or do I throw it all in the rubbish bin and start from scratch.  I would like to keep the look of the original pedal on the floor (rather than do the commodore pedal conversion)
Help  :'(

 8) 8) 8)

Hi Surferboy,

Harv just posted this link on another forum, after having issues with his setup.  Don't know if it'll fix all your problem, but may be a good place to start.

http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=AP1000

Cheers,

John

Thanks John

Just found the same thing
I was looking earlier and couldn't find one on Rares website  ::) my website search skills are as good as my mechanical skills  ;D

I figure I will call in on Monday and buy one and see if I can get it fitted ASAP by my friendly mechanical fix it man  :)
Just hoping my current one hasn't been modified and it is a straight bolt in job

I find most bits of the wagon have been modified and what looks like a simple job usually becomes a pain in the a--e
so I just pay other people to put up with the stress.... I do not have the patience

 8) 8) 8)

Pretty common wear issue Surferboy, the U shaped bracket has a shaft which runs through the cup shaped piece of metal which is bolted to the floor. Unfortunately there is no reinforcement in this piece at all (or lubrication), so it flogs out allowing the sideways movement you are now seeing. Another side effect of this wear is the uneven acceleration you are also witnessing as the shaft bumps around in the flogged out hole.
From the looks it is unmodified and a new pedal will fix it.

Ken

Yep, sounds like mine. Mine is as loose as all hell, wobbles sideways, and will probably crap itself at the most inopportune time. I figure I should replace it with the Rares one... my cable accelerator project has been a good opportunity to do the repair. I've been pretending for the last four years that it would fix itself.

Cheers,
Harv

Thanks guys

Looks like a quick simple pedal replacement will cure all my problems (with the wagon at least  ::))
Off to see Todd at Rares to spend some money
Cathy wants to know what to buy me for my birthday so while I'm there,  I might buy some seat surround and scuff plates and... ;D ;D ;D

 8) 8) 8)

quick , simple pedal replacement  ::)

got the new one and compared to the old one
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010035a_zpsneqvcqnm.jpg) ($2)
the angle of the dangle is different

and the way it joins together
(and it looks flimsyer)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010036a_zpsae0qqmwe.jpg) ($2)
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010037a_zps2varlrfg.jpg) ($2)

and now I have a 1'' gap between the pedal lug (?) and the end of the linkage rod (?)
(the photo looks odd. They line up OK but are 1" away from each other)


(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010052a_zpsvvtduac4.jpg) ($2)


HELP
Can I adjust the linkage rod so it comes back towards the pedal tab?

The cable at the linkage end has no spare wire
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010060a_zpslxczgngg.jpg) ($2)

where it goes into cable casing
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010061a_zpsnpor9jjw.jpg) ($2)


carby end
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010058a_zps1uvtxs1x.jpg) ($2)

My uneducated views

1 I need to adjust the cable to allow the linkage rod to move 1'' backward (how ? screwing it where it goes into casing ? will I bugger up the carby???)
or
2 I need to add a 1" extension to the pedal tab
or
3 I straighten out the bend in the vertical part of the linkage rod where it follows the firewall


 8) 8) 8)

Uh-oh... this doesn't bode well for my own impending Rares pedal replacement  :-\.


1. Can't do this as the casing nut only adjusts the outer cable sheath, not the inner cable. You need a longer inner.
2. Maybe, but painful. I can't make out the photo, but on the new pedal there appears to be some fittings on the outer ends of the pivot pin. Can you adjust the angle-of-the-dangle?
3. Maybe. Would have to remove it from the car first as it is pretty rigid (vice job).

Cheers,
Harv

You could try a piece of plate to bridge the gap. Bolt it in first to check it works then weld it onto the pedal arm so it is more secure.
Jim

Give it to a mate with a grinder and a MIG and he can remove and replace that blob of weld on. the pivot pin and your done . I had a cable and linkage setup like that many years ago but found it a little clumsy so mixed and matched to replace it with a cable right through from pedal to carby . You have done the hard section of the work .Getting the pedal out and finding the replacement ,now its only a five minute job to change the angle of the lever. Many times I have jumped in these old cars and found that there is no pedal travel and just leaned forward and pulled the old rusting pedal up off the floor a little so that its useful [shame on me] .This is what's been done to whatever pedal was used for a pattern[copy] .Good luck. Cheers Haydn

This might explain why it moved sideways and disappeared under the brake pedal every time I accelerated  ::) ::) ::)

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/1b_zpsxydnae6i.jpg) ($2)
cracked all the way across the bracket and comes apart when pushing on the pedal  :o

 8) 8) 8)

Decided to scavenge the pedal off Cathy's  "ugly duckling/spare parts " car

Bugger it looks like it's welded on  ??? :o
I can't see the bolts
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/1a_zpszxpaqepu.jpg) ($2)

It took a bit of digging.. but I found the bolts under 1/2" of rubber compound/rust/muck

Got the pedal off and
surprise surprise  ::)
found this one is similar BUT slightly different to the other two
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/1c_zpscqwo7rmx.jpg) ($2)

(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/1d_zps8kgoepnf.jpg) ($2)
the angle of the dangle is somewhere between the two
and the welding and pin differ slightly between the Rares pedal and the ducks pedal.
and I don't know why the wagons one is so different  ???

Will see if it fits tomorrow

and use it as a temporary fix until I get the Rares pedal modified
I will go with Haydns suggestion and get it cut and rewelded at correct angle

 8) 8) 8)
Has anybody else using the Rares pedal had the same angle issue ?

Mate , I have just gone out to my shed and found a spare pedal that seems to be in ok condition [not too much play and not too rusty ] but I guess the postage would be a killer .Don't get ripped off with the mod. to your Rares pedal as it's only a matter of removing the blob of weld at the head of the pivot pin and retacking it in the correct position [five minutes max.]. This happens lots with Rares when they don't have a good quality pattern to go of ,and someone has [and I have done it myself ] jumped into an old holden with the pedal linkage not adjusted correctly , hence not enough pedal travel . Bend down ,grab the pedal and bend it upward in the hope of getting full throttle . Let me know how you get on. Cheers Haydn

The Ducklings pedal went straight in and hooked up with NO problems  ;D

It sits very vertical (almost leaning towards the drivers foot)
I will get the new Spares one modified so it sits nicely and fit it in the near future
(http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b354/surferboyandcathy/P1010095a_zpsojp1aiqh.jpg) ($2)

Took it for a test drive
 :o :o :o I have ACCELERATION  :o :o :o
It took very little pressure to go off hooning down the street  ;D
I will need to be VERY careful not to get a speeding ticket

 8) 8) 8)

 ;D ;D ;D
All fixed

moved and rewelded the arm on the pivot pin to correct the angle of the dangle
and removed the bracket from behind the pedal (was something to do with a switch for the powerglide auto that the wagon had years ago (or something  ??? ::))
checked for full movement and the carby worked properly
Just a few $s and a few minutes (well it would have been if we hadn't got talking car stuff and looking at other stuff coming in the shop  ::))

I now have nice smooth, powerful acceleration  ;D
Sydney to Ttoowwoommbbaa is going to be a nice drive  :)

Now to start checking out what the squeaky noise is coming from the rear end of the wagon  ::)

 8) 8) 8)

My guess on this squeak , spring bushes . As the mounting bolts [the ones that go through the brackets at the front of your leaf springs] wear they allow the steel outer of the bush to rub on the sub-frame and if unchecked will rub all the way through before the bolt wears out . Just a guess . Haydn