New Clutch - Any tips?

[FB_MAD]

Phil. The spigot bush shouldn't be tight when fitted over the gearbox input shaft end.You should be easily able to fit it over the end of the shaft and turn it by hand (a new one may bind a little but not too much).It should be a press fit into the end of the crankshaft (read knock it in with a hammer and socket)and it should fit about flush in the end of the crankshaft.Check that you have fitted it in far enough into the end of the crank otherwise like you said it will be hard up against the taper area of the input shaft and may actually be driving the input shaft even when you have actuated the clutch.
Sometimes if all goes wrong in the spigot fitment and the spigot is tight on the input shaft then the bush may be spinning in the crankshaft hence the squeal noise you mention.
Could be something completely different to the above mentioned but it a trial and error thing.Eventually it will work out.
Hope this helps,

Terry.

P.S. Go easy on the grease.Clutches and grease are mortal enemies!

[craiga]

Phil,

Check you are using the correct grey motor throwout bearing, and not the later model red motor type. It all fits, but the red motor type is about 1/4" shorter, meaning than the bearing will not contact the pressure plate fingers and release the clutch plate.

Cheers,

Craig.

[Philby]

Ladies, Gentlemen and any other interested parties,

The clutch dilemma is over.    

At approx. 10:30pm last night I was able to reverse the car off the ramps, out of the drive and up the street (with a big smile on the face too).

Thanks everyone for your help.  It must be interesting, and in some ways amusing to watch a new bloke learn by trial and error.  The advice through this forum was excellent.  The posts, PMs, phone calls and extra pair of hands helped heaps.

At the moment, there are two words forbidden in my house.

                       Flywheel and Spigot.

This won't last long though, I'll get over it.

The source of my problem was the spigot bush.  I hadn't hit it into the crank far enough.  It was sticking about 3 mm too far out.  That meant the difference between the taper of the splines pushing up on the spigot, which spun the Gear Shaft regardless of the clutch being used, and the Gear Shaft being able to slow down/stop when the clutch was depressed.  Simple enough and lesson learnt.  

I'd recommend to anyone changing the spigot bush, to ensure it is hit far enough into the crank (yes, as per the shop manual :-/).  It sucks having to remove the transmission twice for the same job!

Here is a photo of the difference.



I look forward to providing you with some more laughs as I attempt maintenance, repairs or component restorations.

Cheers,

Phil

[RET]

Glad to hear it's sorted out.  Even though you probably won't forget this next time you have to do a clutch :-/ you've still taken some excellent step-by-step photos there to help others.

I'll have you on the NSW Club roster writing Tech Articles for Sideplate our club magazine before you know it.

cheers
RET

[Philby]

Cheers RET.  
Tech articles and me might be a good mix when once my knowledge is a bit deeper.

Just when I thought I could move on to another part of the car,  I'm now experiencing another problem.  Soft clutch and not enough return on the pedal.  

I have tried many combinations of the adjustments with no success and bled the system.

I have identified a squirting/bubbling sound coming from the master cylinder when I depress the clutch, which makes me think it may need a new rubber kit.  This wouldn’t surprise me due to the gunk that came out of the hydraulic system when I bled it.

If anyone understands what I’m talking about, I’d be happy to hear confirm my diagnosis.

Cheers,

Phil

[collecta]

Hi Phil,
Your diagnosis sounds right again, its possible your disturbing of the sediment in your master has caused it to by pass internally. Happens all the time with brakes that do not get a regular flush at service intervals.
cheers
Scott

ps.... you have tried to rebleed to make sure its not air trapped? Which can also be the case, do the little things first to diagnose step by step illiminating as you go its cheaper that way.

[Philby]

Cheers Scott,

I bled the system again but there was no change.  I could still hear the bubbling coming from the master cylinder.

I have taken the master cylinder off and look what I found….



The other pics didn't really work out but each component wasn't too different to this pic.

I inspected all the components and the rubbers were stuffed and there was residue all over the barrel and return spring.  I’m now cleaning all the components and I’ll get a kit for it in the next couple of days.  

Thankfully the barrel isn’t scored or scratched, so I hope the kit will be enough to fix it.

Cheers,

Phil

[Philby]

         

Hi All,

The master and slave cylinder have been cleaned, kitted and now work a treat.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Phil