Royal
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« on: January 17, 2006, 05:55:19 AM » |
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Hi Ppl Can anyone give me some information about or has anyone used SCOTT"S old auto rubber in Melbourne for their rubber kits their prices seem quite good and they seem to carry all I need, any help would be appreciated. Cheers Roy
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REDMR2RED
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« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2006, 07:01:09 AM » |
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Yes I have bought rubber and other FC bits (tail light and indicator lens) from them, but over the counter. They seem easy and very friendly to deal with.
As for sending items to QLD I have no experience.
Kevin
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1959 FC Holden Ute
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Royal
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« Reply #2 on: January 17, 2006, 07:12:05 AM » |
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Hi Kevin Thanks for the reply, did you buy any door rubbers or windscreen rubbers and if so how did they fit , I'm mainly concerned with quality of their products than anything else they just seem to be reasonable value. Cheers Roy
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REDMR2RED
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« Reply #3 on: January 17, 2006, 07:45:59 AM » |
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No I didn't buy door rubbers so can't help there.
The winscreen guy who fitted my new windscreen supplied the rubber so again no help there sorry.
Kevin
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1959 FC Holden Ute
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Just40
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« Reply #4 on: January 17, 2006, 08:11:54 AM » |
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i got mine from rare spares in brisbane,took about 4 weeks for all of it to turn up,and from memory it was about $60 more tham scotts,but then you have to add freight so i just got it here.
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Royal
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« Reply #5 on: January 17, 2006, 09:47:15 AM » |
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Just 40 Thanks I'm just testing the water and Rares are an option but I've seen some posts on here that say their rubbers can be a bit difficult to fit which I suppose you would expect being after market but I came across Scotts and thought I would ask the question, anyway thanks for your reply. Kevin Thanks very much for your replies also. Cheers Roy
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COL58FE
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« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2006, 04:18:52 AM » |
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Roy, Hi but hate to tell you this but i've just been quoted $1,600+ for a Rare's kit,and $1,350 on the dot from Scott's so there's a big $ gap there. I too would love to know the quality of the Scott's kit before i get my kit within a few week's. P.S. sorry i can't help on the mater futher. Cheer's Col.
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« Last Edit: January 18, 2006, 04:20:12 AM by dawry351 »
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Ed
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« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2006, 04:49:09 AM » |
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I'd reckon they are all very similar and all a PITA to fit.
Am fitting up some door seals at the moment and on my current door (2nd of 4) I cant even close the door once the seal is trial fitted. I'm betting a combination of less than perfect panel alignment, new springy rubber and a novice fitter contributes to the fit.
I wont mention who made them because I don't believe it is their fault.
the remedy has come in the form of 13mm x 13mm sponge foam rubber from Clarkes and it fits reasonably well and is pretty cheap too.
there are so many bits and pieces of rubber you need a PhD to decipher where they all go.
lucky I can ask some more experienced members how to fit them up here.
Cheers
Ed
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Royal
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« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2006, 05:37:57 AM » |
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Hey Ed I can remember when I fitted the rubbers in my FJ a few years ago I had the same problem as your having but that was quite an easy solution because the ruubber was the same all the way around and you just had to stretch them a bit and they fitted good but with the FE/FC they have to start and end in the right spot so you just cant stretch them What are you using the 13mm+!3mm rubber on? are you using as a door rubber or the inner rubber. Maybe if the rubber is to thick it can be trimmed on the back where it fits in the channel, Just a thought . Thanks for the reply. Cheers Roy
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julius
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« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2006, 05:38:23 AM » |
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Hi Guy
For the two who are experiancing problems fitting their door rubbers give me a call on 0407486759 and I will let you in on how to succed.
My door close spot on without any harware in the doors.
Julius
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Blown_FC
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« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2006, 07:32:35 AM » |
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ED....we must be on the same page !
I fitted my rear door seal on the weekend with the help of another club member ( thanks Brad ), and what a B*tch of a job....got the seal in beautifully, but took another 3 hours to get the bloody door to close. Finally closed it after messing with the striker plates, but still sits out about 5mm more than it should. I'm just leaving it shut for a few weeks to squash the rubbers a bit, then I'll work on the striker plate again !
Having said all that......aks this question from Scotts Auto rubber.........who makes the rubber ?
Reason I say this, is that rubber kits from Rare Spares, American Autos, and the Perth guy ( can;t remember name ), all quote different prices, and when it arrives...guess what....it's all RARES stuff anyway !
And like a lot of parts...American Autos can supply all Rares stuff at cheaper than Rares Prices...work that out !
Julius...I'm about to call you !
Cheers
Mark
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smithy
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« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2006, 09:55:15 AM » |
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i fitted the rares rubber kit and found similar problems with the doors ( the drivers side im still not happy with ) with the rear doors i had to cut down the rubber about 20mm to sit over the hinges, but your right it is mongrel of a job by yourself and getting the doors to sit isnt fun. :-/.. the inner door rubbers if not worried about authenticity can be grabbed from clark rubber. the only one i had problems with was the boot rubber, this was the same profile as all the door rubbers and when fitted there was no way known i was getting the boot closed. i found a boot rubber from scotts was a significantly smaller profile, this not only was easier to fit but the boot now sits flush. i also gave the rubbers a good coverage of some stuff called autoglym (similar to armourall, but i think better) to soften the rubbers up a bit then closed and left the doors for as long as could. cheers dean
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Royal
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« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2006, 07:46:51 PM » |
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HI all Thanks for all your replies and tips this looks likes its going to be fun. Juluis; I will ring you Cheers Roy
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Ed
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« Reply #13 on: January 18, 2006, 09:20:36 PM » |
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Hi guys,
Roy, I toook the 13mm square section out after chatting with Julius yesterday.
apparently the aftermarket seals are fatter than standard and once squeezed into the metal channel they dont allow enough compression for the door to close.
so... widen the channel or cut the seal. I chose to cut the seal, and cut a big strip out of the bottom edge of the seal allowing the seal to fit into the channel and also allow any air to escape once the door is closed.
the door closes now, Im hoping the seal doesnt saturate with water now.. hmmm.
Mark, smithy, which glue are you using? contact glue or other?
Cheers
Ed
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Blown_FC
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« Reply #14 on: January 18, 2006, 11:40:57 PM » |
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Ed, I'm just using the Black 3M Windscreen Sealant that came with my Rubber Kit. It's pretty much a contact adhesive, but I think it has more flexibility.
I widened the Channel last night after advice from Julius. Yet to try the rubbers as I'm waiting for a 2nd set of hands to help me, but it makes sense and I hope it helps. Failing that, I too will be cutting some rubber off.
Cheers
Mark
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RET
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« Reply #15 on: January 19, 2006, 12:10:37 AM » |
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Hey Julius,
Sounds like you're on a winner with whatever you're doing there to get the rubbers to fit. How about you write it up for all of us?
cheers RET
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Just40
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« Reply #16 on: January 19, 2006, 08:10:55 AM » |
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i had no trouble with the kit i got from rare spares. and i am happy with the way they came up. just make sure you spray them a few times with rubber magic.
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craiga
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« Reply #17 on: January 19, 2006, 08:28:33 AM » |
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The spot you illustrate at the rear door hinge is where you really need to trim the back of the rubber. This is the best advice I was given when doing my rubber kit (thanks Ken).
I have posted this before, but the only area besides this that needs modification is around the A pillar door/guard area, where the majority of aftermarket rubbers tend to bulge out. I cut the rubber and glued in a section of different profile rubber that most accurately represented the original moulding. My front doors shut well, and don't leak air OR water, even under high pressure, and it definitely doesn't bulge rubber out.
I also mitred the top rear corners of the front door rubbers, this keeps the rubber flatter and assists in getting a good door close. It looks much better as well.
Remember, the aftermarket rubbers are OK, but only have a moulded bottom section. The original rubbers have many specially moulded areas so the aftermarket ones are always going to be some sort of compromise.
And yes, I am one of the lucky ones and have fitted a set of NOS rubbers to a car. Easy as cracking the lid of a cold VB.
Cheers,
Craig
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« Last Edit: January 19, 2006, 08:30:07 AM by craiga »
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smithy
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« Reply #18 on: January 19, 2006, 10:12:51 AM » |
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ed i started out using a loctite contact ,though cant remember what number it was after that ran out i just used some strong contact cement. seems to have held up ok. the hardest part was keeping the surfaces apart waiting for glue to dry. easist way was just working with about a foot at a time dean p.s. Ed im still reading those trimming books. just found out that a mates girlfriends mother has just started up a dress making business but wants to try her hand at upholstery. i might just be in luck with the seats , let me know when you need them returned. cheers
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Ed
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« Reply #19 on: January 19, 2006, 09:16:48 PM » |
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Smithy, Keep the books until your interior is done. on rubbbers... i placed my rear door seal over the bottom hinge as well.. this is the opposite to what just40 has done??? I also ended up having to trim most of the bottom section off the rubber to get it to fit the rear door. I wont recommend this in general but in my case it was the only way the door was ever going to close. whatever works I guess. now to glue it, I got some 3M weather strip glue (contact cement). it's also useful to have kids around, their hand and fingers are small enough to push the seal in the hard to reach places.. just be careful not to close the door on their fingers Cheers Ed
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