some questions before i continue, SC14 on a 179

[Glenn 'Stinky' Stankevicius]

Sarge, you can still run a floor shifter and a bench seat, I have a B&M Quicksilver in the FE with the Std bench. I just put the bench all the way forward and set the shifter up from there. I haven't routed the shifter cable properly yet, but the mock-up was OK. If you can afford it the Lokar shifters are pretty cool and look like you have a manual.

As to the blown motor, I am watching Leon's progress with anticipation as I am yet to be convinced that the effort is worth the power increase. There was a guy I sold some parts to with a CRS jap blower on his 202 with 350 Holley. He said it did have a fair bit of go and could shut-down Std V8s, but there was a lot of heat from the blower and the water temp ran hotter too.

[Sarge]

Thank Stinky
                   I though of a B&M shifter, but I have never really like them but in saying that this will be the first car I have ever had that will be Auto so I will keep it in mind.

Leon
       Like stinky I am watching what you are doing for if I do decide to go down that path there is no point in only going half way.

Cheers
Sarge

[fccool59]

oops, forgot people were going to watch this, No the motor is not together yet, the head is sitting on there so I can work out the pushrod length.

Here is whats in it-

179 block, decked, O'ringed, bored and tunnel bored.
Black 3.3 crank balanced and machined to suit 179.
Black 33. conrods, shot peened, closed and honed, ARP conrod bolts.
ACL race series pistons, dish top plus further machining to dish.
ACL race series bearings.
ACL race series copperhead copper head gasket.
Black 3.3 EFI head, ported, cc'd, pep pro stainless valves, double valve springs.
Yella terra YT 5008 rockers and guide plates on ARP screw in studs with posilocks.
Custom ground solid supercharger cam from camtech.
Solid lifters.
ARP head stud kit.
ARP main stud kit.
Crow adjustable straight cut gears.
Ross tuffbond balancer.

Also I now have a 100 psi water injection kit wich is operated by a adjustable pressure switch tapped into the manifold to come on at a preset boost level, Also to help with detonation is a crane HI-6 trc CDI ignition and a crane  
LX 92 coil, this has a control mounted inside the car to retard timing, I can also add a crane vairable pressure switch that will retard timing when boost increases, in this mode the knob changes the retard curve as boost increases.

below is a current pic, I am trying to work out the pushrod legth but without much luck, I might need to try and source a adjustable pushrod or try and make one.
The YT guide plates didnt fit at first and were on a angle preventing the studs from screwing in and cuasing the pushrods to bind. I had to flatten them and turn them upside down, still need some thourough checking and adjusting.
The new head is taller but also the solid lifters are, the roller tip is too close to the valve tip edge at tdc.