Oil pressure regulator valve

[Jolls]

Hi team,

I'm in the process of restoring the motor - an old grey out of an FB. I have removed and stripped down the oil pump but at some stage there appears ot have been some water ingress. I was able to persuade the oil pump drive out of the housing but can't for the life of me get the oil pressure regulator valve out. So far it has been soaked in WD40, spent an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner and is now in a deisel batch. I will need to purchase a rebuild kit as no doubt the valve will be pitted (perhaps the housing as well)?

Any thoughts on getting the valve out?

Cheers

[ardiesse]

Craig,

This is a train-of-thought post, so bear with me -

FB oil pump, so the relief valve spring is retained by a split pin, and probably washer.  The spring seats inside the relief valve plunger.  Plunger looks like a miniature cam follower.  There are a couple of ways of going at it:

1: Tap a thread into the plunger (if the steel's not too hard) then get a length of threaded rod, a washer and a nut.  Thread the rod into the plunger, put the washer over the rod so it bears up against the pump housing, screw the nut down onto the washer and keep turning the nut until the plunger is extracted.

2: Use lots of heat on the pump housing at the relief valve bore.  But I can't remember if there's space to get a drift into the relief valve passage so you can start to drive the plunger out.

Red motor relief valve plungers are the same outside diameter as those in late grey motors.  You can use a red motor relief valve spring, but may need to pack spacers behind to give the right pressure regulation.

Plan B:  I have many grey oil pumps . . .

Rob

[Jolls]

Craig,

This is a train-of-thought post, so bear with me -

FB oil pump, so the relief valve spring is retained by a split pin, and probably washer.  The spring seats inside the relief valve plunger.  Plunger looks like a miniature cam follower.  There are a couple of ways of going at it:

1: Tap a thread into the plunger (if the steel's not too hard) then get a length of threaded rod, a washer and a nut.  Thread the rod into the plunger, put the washer over the rod so it bears up against the pump housing, screw the nut down onto the washer and keep turning the nut until the plunger is extracted.

2: Use lots of heat on the pump housing at the relief valve bore.  But I can't remember if there's space to get a drift into the relief valve passage so you can start to drive the plunger out.

Red motor relief valve plungers are the same outside diameter as those in late grey motors.  You can use a red motor relief valve spring, but may need to pack spacers behind to give the right pressure regulation.

Plan B:  I have many grey oil pumps . . .

Rob

Hi Rob,

Thanks for your thoughts. There certainly isn't a way to get a drift in to drive the plunger out. My interim plan was to drill the plunger out similar to driling out a snapped bolt.

I had not conidered using threaded rod/bolt. That is a much better solution.

I'll give it a crack tomorrow and let you know how I go.

Cheers
Craig

[Jolls]

1: Tap a thread into the plunger (if the steel's not too hard) then get a length of threaded rod, a washer and a nut.  Thread the rod into the plunger, put the washer over the rod so it bears up against the pump housing, screw the nut down onto the washer and keep turning the nut until the plunger is extracted.

Hi Rob,

Thanks for the idea - didn't work as planned but the valve is out.

I started with a pln to drill out the valve and cut a thread for a grade 8 M10 bolt I had laying about. Killed a drill bit while I was at it, resharpened it and killed it again - so that wasn't progressing.

So I decided to work with what I could get into the existing. An M9 tap fit well so I thought I would tap that thread and do an buy some M9 rod/bolt and do ti that way. The M9 tap went in a bit and then started spinning. Would not cut a thread and would not screw itself out. I gave it a couple of taps with a hammer and noticed a bit of diesel from the bath squirting out of the housing - movement. I tried to get the tap out - still no joy so I gave the tap a couple of light hits with the hammer hoping the thread would catch. It did and I was able to turn the tap about 1/4 of a turn and it became really easy to move. I thought that the thread I had started to cut had broken away - but no it was the valve spinning in the body. Pulled on the tap and removed the tap and valve no issues. The valve was not pitted or corroded anywhere except where it has been exposed to air in a small circle. The bore is clean and useable.

The tap is not good though - it took some work to get it out - the start threads are gone - so that one will have to be replaced. So I have ordered a rebuild kit and we are good to go. Now I just need to replace a cam follower and the donk will go in to be reborn and the cam and followers will go off to be reground!

Really appreciate your idea - didn't work as expected - but got me out of trouble.

Cheers
Craig