Jolls FC Ute Project

[Jolls]

There are many methods of timing gear replacement.  Here is one from Cowell, SA, featuring the panelbeater and his friend, the John Deere mechanic.
...
All in all, a great success.  A major engine problem on a Friday afternoon at Port Lincoln, fixed in a day.
Rob

Love that story and the picture it paints of country Oz. I know the panel beater in town - no John Deer store though! I'll let you know how I get on - just had another thought. I'm sure that I have a two piece bearing puller up in the shed - will pull it out and see how that goes before taking to the cam with an angle grinder. I will use progressive steps of violence until the job is done!

[Errol62]

I remember removing a broken fibre gear from a black 202 in my VK Berlina. Grinding, chiselling and heat all came to play. The failure actually occurred between Port Augusta and Iron Knob, but we towed the car back up to Leigh Creek for the repair, some 300km.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Jolls]

A bit of grinding, the bearing puller and a tad of MAP heat got the job done. Had to do it pretty much one handed as I have a tendonitis in my left shoulder and am off from work for the week.

Cam, alloy timing gear and cam followers, plus one spare, are off to Clive to work his magic. Spoke with Masterstroke Enginering and the head will be picked up Monday or Tuesday next week. I have a funeral on Thursday in Sydney so will take the opportunty to visit some relos/friends before I head back over the weekend/ and head back on the weekend. I had planned to get some more rust work done this week - but I guess that is on the back burner. I will probably start work on the steering and pedal box tomorrow so we are at least progressing.

[Jolls]

Got word back on the FB motor today. The good news was that it was still the original bore, crank etc. That was the end of the good news.

Nothing was in spec. The bores were so worn that they are going straight to 60thou over. Everything else to the next over/undersize. Block will be surfaced while they are at it. Probably would have been slightly cheaper to buy a donk that had already been done. But where is the pain in doing that?

Combine that with the head and reground cam I expect that we will be pretty well matched with the 3 36 diff centre we picked up last week.

Oil pump is now good to go and the fuel pump, after an hour in the ultrasonic cleaner, is ready to put back together for testing. Diaphragm is good so I trst all I will need is to make a fuel bowl gasket to have it serviceable.

Having troubles finding the missing front brake components. What I have found available so far is in the form of complete front ends at the end of long drives to pick up.

It is a patience game so I expect something will turn up in due course.

Starting to hand over the construction business to my sons so look forward to having some time on my hands to get stuck into the old girl.

Sent from my SM-S938B using Tapatalk

[ardiesse]

Craig,

What front brake components do you need?

Rob

[Jolls]

Craig,

What front brake components do you need?

Rob

Hi Rob,
The front brakes were missing, from the GMH Shop Manual (Fig 5.1 page 5-1):

• Item 6. Bolt and Spacer Assembly - Brake Anchor;
• Item 7. Link Brake Shoe; and
• Item 8. Pin Assembly - Brake Shoe Link.

The rest, springs and retainers etc., I think I can scrape up from the spares that came with the ute.

Cheers
Craig

[Jolls]

Craig,

What front brake components do you need?

Rob

Here is an extract from the manual I am using.

[ardiesse]

Craig,

I have the links and pins, and am pretty certain I have the anchor bolts and spacers.  Do you need one side or two sides?

Rob

[Jolls]

Craig,

I have the links and pins, and am pretty certain I have the anchor bolts and spacers.  Do you need one side or two sides?

Rob

Hi Rob,

I need both sides. If you have some that you could spare it would be awesome. Let me know how many beer tokens and I'll sort something out with you.

Cheers
Craig

[Jolls]

I am finishing up work and in the process of winding up the building company. So I have had a bit more time to spend on the ute - not as much as I would like but we are heading in the right direction. I may be working for the boys to help build a couple fo sheds over the next month or so but then I am definitely out of the business except for guest appearances. More of a Scott Cam type role.

Anyway, so the progress.

I got the cam back from Clive Cams last Friday so it was taken into Phillip Head Services who are doing the machining to ensure all of the bearings are correct etc. I had an alloy timing gear that I had planned to use but as couldn't determine how it was going to mate with the existing gear I decided to put is aside for now and oder in a matched set. I don't want to have to pull the engine back down to play around with mismatched timing gears.  When I redo the tired old original FC engine, which I trust just needs a hone and rings, I will see if I can use it then.

The head is being finished up at the moment and I expect to get it back late next week.

If you have followed the recent thread on resleeving brakes (https://forum.fefcholden.club/index.php?topic=28669.0 you will know that I was missing some front brake parts. Rob has generously provided the missing parts so that can progress. Thanks so much for your advice and support Rob.

I started on the rear brakes yesterday and had heaps of trouble trying to get the drums off. The adjusters ware rusted solid. After several soaks in WD40 and a bit of persuasion with a hammer I was able to get them to rotate and loosen off the shoes; but, still couldn't get the drums off despite them rotating reasonably freely. After much effort with a couple of small pry bars and the application of some brute force with the hammer I was able to get the shoes to show and with a combination of hammer and lever work got them off. They had been down to bare metal several times on both sides by the looks of it and the step in the drums was so deep I couldn't get it over the shoes. To remove the passenger side the friction material had to be broken away. The depth of the step in the drums is 2.7mm on one side and 2.6mm on the other (so 5.4mm and 5.2mmm over respectively). This works out to be around 9 7/32" diameter so I don't think they are salvagable.

On the good news front the 3.36 diff I picked up for $30 is in excellent condition. I will replace the wheel bearings and all of the seals etc before I put is into service though. I will head off to Speeds Spares (Rare Spares dealer in Canberra) to pick up the seals, bearings and a later model uni joint and U bolts.

I did have a bit of a scare as for the life of me I couldn't find the tailshaft. I also couldn't remember if I had picked one up with the ute when I bought it so I had no idea if I needed to buy one or find one. After a bit of angst and a lot of searching I eventually located it hidden in behind a few spare VY/VX tailshafts leaning up against the shed wall. Not sure how it got there as all the FC parts were in one location. I will blame it on Son 2 tonight!

Anyway, I have a good spare original FC diff if anyone is in need.

The fuel tank has been prepped for POR and the pinholes filled with fuel rated JB Weld. With a bit of luck I will knock this over on the weekend.

When I put the fuel pump back together the diaphragm split so I need to purchase in a kit to bring it back to all of its glory. I am using an FB/EK style fuel pump as I'm not using the vacuum wipers.

I completed an audit of the wiring harness and ordered additional cables and joiners from Vintage Wiring to repair what I have and to run the addtional circuits that weren't included in the comercial vehicles - indicators, radio, heater etc. They are in the post. I have come up with a first draft design for a 3D printable screw together fusr holder that is close to what the originals looked like. I need to curve the ends to look the part (beyond my current skill level) but I will get there. Now I have to convince SWBO that "we" need a 3D printer! 

No progress on the bodywork unfortunatley so she is still on the rotisserie just hanging around. Plan for next week is to look at the steering box - it is out laying on the garage floor screaming at me to give it some attention. Any tips on what I should be aware of before I dive into it?

Cheers n Beers

[ardiesse]

Craig,

The upper bearing surface on the steering shaft (aka wormshaft) will probably be pitted from lubrication failure, as will the bearing race pressed into the steering box housing.  If you're unlucky, the same will be true of the lower wormshaft bearing and race (pressed into the big adjuster nut).  This is not a game-stopper.  Apparently there's a guy in Smithfield who can regrind the bearing surfaces.  One of the NSW club members has recently had his steering box reconditioned by him.

To remove the bearing race from the adjuster nut, lay a nice big fillet of weld on the inside of the race.  As the weld cools, it'll shrink the race, which will then drop out.

If you're super unlucky, the threaded part of the wormshaft (where the recirculating balls run) and the ball nut will be pitted too.  This means game over.

The sector shaft tends to wear right close to the sector, and the sector shaft bushes also wear out.  Rare Spares may have replacement sector shaft bushes.  Otherwise Statewide Bearings in Smithfield has the right size bronze bushes, but they will require line-reaming after installation.

Another trick on reassembly is to turn the ball nut upside-down.  This makes the teeth mesh on an unworn part of the ball nut.

Pull the sector shaft out, remove the adjuster nut, slide the steering shaft and ball-nut out as an assembly, and post lots of close-up photos.

Rob

[Jolls]

Thanks Rob,

Thanks for the advice, I'll let you know wha tI find tomorrow.

Cheers