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Author Topic: FC "L" prefix motor wanted please  (Read 449 times)
KFV888
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« on: September 14, 2019, 09:19:14 PM »
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hi all,
my september 1958 build FC(i think from memory thats when ken told me its built)has developed a nasty crack in the block so chasing a grey short or complete engine around that time build if possible, i know its a long shot but can anyone help? located in se melb but happy to organise and pay freight for an engine.
thanks guys
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my8thholden
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« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2019, 06:26:48 AM »
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That's tough luck ,where is the crack and do you know what caused it to happen ?...Vern
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ardiesse
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« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2019, 12:15:16 PM »
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The crack wouldn't be on the left hand side of the crankcase, at the bottom of the water jacket, just aft of the generator?

I have a newly reconditioned EJ motor . . .

Rob
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KFV888
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« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2019, 03:14:04 PM »
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The crack wouldn't be on the left hand side of the crankcase, at the bottom of the water jacket, just aft of the generator?

I have a newly reconditioned EJ motor . . .

Rob

you nailed it rob.... starts from just behind the generator and travels horizontally under the manifolds... damn looks like perfect a factory crack that was put in when the block was cast. if i knew how to put pics up i'd show pity cos its only a 90k mile car
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KFV888
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« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2019, 03:16:48 PM »
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That's tough luck ,where is the crack and do you know what caused it to happen ?...Vern
side of block, just under freeze plugs, looks like a factory crack!! not sure Vern how it happened to be honest
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my8thholden
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« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2019, 07:29:24 PM »
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Shame mate ..A motor will turn up..Mine was a EK block, and a friend gave me a FC block ,as I stated elsewhere on this forum ,it is perfect date wise for 1958 build car ,so one will turn up for you ..
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ardiesse
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« Reply #6 on: September 15, 2019, 07:31:27 PM »
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. . . seems to be a weak point.  "Found Object" (original L-block) has a crack in the same place.

If you are really attached to the block (say it's the original motor), you could probably get the crack repaired.  Find an old-school engine shop and talk to them.

The guys in the machine shop at work suggest the process would be something like this:
Strip the block down completely, flush all the mud and scale out of the water jackets, pop the block in the oven until it gets to about 120 degrees C, then braze the crack.

BOC Gas'n'Gear sells a high-nickel content arc welding electrode suitable for electric welding cast iron, but they're bloody expensive, and they only sell them in packs (>$500 when I asked).  This is why it'd be good to find an engine shop who already has these electrodes.

Rob
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KFV888
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« Reply #7 on: September 15, 2019, 08:40:44 PM »
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. . . seems to be a weak point.  "Found Object" (original L-block) has a crack in the same place.

If you are really attached to the block (say it's the original motor), you could probably get the crack repaired.  Find an old-school engine shop and talk to them.

The guys in the machine shop at work suggest the process would be something like this:
Strip the block down completely, flush all the mud and scale out of the water jackets, pop the block in the oven until it gets to about 120 degrees C, then braze the crack.

BOC Gas'n'Gear sells a high-nickel content arc welding electrode suitable for electric welding cast iron, but they're bloody expensive, and they only sell them in packs (>$500 when I asked).  This is why it'd be good to find an engine shop who already has these electrodes.

Rob

yes i did thing about doing that rob, still undecided... its a real shame because as i said its the original engine that has just clocked over 90k miles and i really dont want to change it, may pull it down and look at options and if i can get another grey to slip in the hole i can still drive the car in the meantime as i get withdrawal symptoms after a while:)
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Harv
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« Reply #8 on: September 16, 2019, 09:15:07 AM »
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The guys in the machine shop at work suggest the process would be something like this:
Strip the block down completely, flush all the mud and scale out of the water jackets, pop the block in the oven until it gets to about 120 degrees C, then braze the crack.

Might be a little low on temp. Cast is normally pre-heated to 250-500C, then stick welded out with high-nickel rod. The component is then wrapped (blankets, sand etc) to allow a slow cool.

If you get really stuck, I've got a bare L-block (from Rob, with thanks) that could get you out of trouble. It would be a lot of mucking around to get it to you, and then install all your internals and ancillaries. The engine number on the block is very faint (hard to read past the "L"), though I could try to develop the number with some sulphuric acid.

Cheers,
Harv
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59wagon
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« Reply #9 on: September 16, 2019, 03:35:03 PM »
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Hi mate, Ive got a couple of L blocks that youre welcome to for a smile as well. Couple of hurdles though - Im in WA and Ive got no idea if theyre any good. They were thrown in with my wagon when I got it cos the guy wanted rid of them.



So if youre desperate and can organise transport, Im happy to do whatever it takes at this end.

Cheers, John


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ardiesse
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« Reply #10 on: September 16, 2019, 04:10:17 PM »
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John,

The L486... block is about the right number for a Sept '58 car.  L613... would be right at the end of the FC model run.  Out of curiosity, what's the date code on the L486... block?

Rob
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59wagon
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« Reply #11 on: September 16, 2019, 06:04:08 PM »
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Hi Rob, not sure what/where the date code is but heres what I found. If thats not what youre after, let me know where to look.

L486585




L613873



Cheers, John
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ardiesse
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« Reply #12 on: September 16, 2019, 06:41:48 PM »
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John,

G258 (I think).  July 25, 1958 casting, and would have been a September or October car.
H259 - August 25, 1959.  Would have been an October or November 1959 car.

I just came back from Adelaide with a motor.  WA's not that much further . . .

Rob
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Errol62
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« Reply #13 on: September 16, 2019, 07:52:31 PM »
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Yes and I recently offloaded an L motor to a farmer on Yorke Peninsula to go in a fork lift.


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KFV888
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« Reply #14 on: September 16, 2019, 07:53:32 PM »
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Hi mate, Ive got a couple of L blocks that youre welcome to for a smile as well. Couple of hurdles though - Im in WA and Ive got no idea if theyre any good. They were thrown in with my wagon when I got it cos the guy wanted rid of them.



So if youre desperate and can organise transport, Im happy to do whatever it takes at this end.

Cheers, John



john...
thank you so much for the offer,  i have a mate in armadale there thats runs a ford yard i deal with and i will call him tomorrow to see if he happy to ship them both, i will be in touch, really really appreciate as the L4 is nearly my number
thanks
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KFV888
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« Reply #15 on: September 16, 2019, 07:55:02 PM »
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Yes and I recently offloaded an L motor to a farmer on Yorke Peninsula to go in a fork lift.


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yep i know the feels, a guy here last year had one in a forklift.. it went to scrap before i could get it
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KFV888
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« Reply #16 on: September 16, 2019, 07:56:28 PM »
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Might be a little low on temp. Cast is normally pre-heated to 250-500C, then stick welded out with high-nickel rod. The component is then wrapped (blankets, sand etc) to allow a slow cool.

If you get really stuck, I've got a bare L-block (from Rob, with thanks) that could get you out of trouble. It would be a lot of mucking around to get it to you, and then install all your internals and ancillaries. The engine number on the block is very faint (hard to read past the "L"), though I could try to develop the number with some sulphuric acid.

Cheers,
Harv

hey gasket scrapper! (jokes) thanks for the offer, i be in touch shortly mate
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KFV888
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« Reply #17 on: September 22, 2019, 09:02:34 PM »
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here is the culprit crack, it is alot longer now


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