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Author Topic: Tyres & Diff  (Read 7783 times)
intrepid
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« on: April 15, 2017, 08:41:24 PM »
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Hi, what is the widest tyre that will fit on an fc (front and back) that is lowered, looking to fit 18/20 x 8 or 9 inch wide. Also what does the length of the diff (9 inch) need to be from the end of the stub axle to the end of the stub axle.

Thanking you in advance
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intrepid
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« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2017, 06:11:21 AM »
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Hi, what is the widest tyre that will fit on an fc without being tubbed in the rear and will be lowered, looking to fit 18/20 x 8 or 9 inch wide. Also what does the length of the diff (9 inch) need to be from end to end.

Thanking you in advance
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Errol62
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« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2017, 09:02:02 AM »
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I reckon 215/60/13x7 is as far as you can go on the rear without rubbing. 185/70/13x6 on front of you want legal track, but that is using HR disc front. Might be able to go sevens on the front with king pins.


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intrepid
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« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2017, 06:43:29 PM »
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Thanks mate, the problem i have is the engineer has advised me that the minium i can use is 8 inch wide as i am putting a small block chev motor in my car. I have put a hr front end in my car
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mcl1959
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« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2017, 08:14:48 PM »
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At the rear, I think if you removed the inner lip the 8's will be ok. The big diameter rim gives you plenty of scope to select offset to get the tyre central in the space.
At the front, the big diameter helps as well by getting the wheel back inside the guard without fouling on the steering or suspension.
You are narrowing the track a little which the engineer may or may not be happy with.
I'm surprised he's given the go ahead for the small block Chev as this would seem to be outside the specification guidelines now.
Since he's given you approval for that, I would do everything possible to keep him happy on all the other things.

Ken
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FCRB26
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« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2017, 09:07:43 PM »
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I have 245s with the inner lip removed and mini tubbed its close
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intrepid
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« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2017, 05:55:45 PM »
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Thanks guys, i definately want to keep him happy. I just did not want to tub the rear end and he has made it clear that depending on what the car weights will determine how wide the wheels need to be,

1200kg 8 inches wide
1400kg 9 inches wide

I can only put a sbc in the car, ive already put the bigger tunnel for the gear box and built the chassis strengthing kit (all welded in)
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FireKraka
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« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2017, 11:52:17 AM »
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Hi Intrepid;
Mate my V6 sedan all up after the mods which included the commodore diff etc. came to 1200kgs your small block is only going to be a little bit heavier I would not think 200kgs heavier though.
You ask about diff width this is always determined by the offset of the rims that you want to run; the offset of the rims on my sedan are such that diff width is the same as original however on the FB/EK ute I'm currently doing I want to run commodore rims therefore the width of the diff has to be such as to compensate for the offset of the rims.

I've mentioned to other people that you need to choose your rims and narrow diff accordingly hope this makes sense.
Regards
Neil H
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intrepid
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« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2017, 04:53:02 PM »
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Hi Neil

Thanks for the advice,

Im thinking of changing engineers...... i explained to the engineer that i did not want to tub the rear but to fit 9 inch wide tyres i would have to mini tub the rear I think. The engineer did not want me to paint any of the rails i put in to strengthen the chassis untill he inspected the welds which i contacted him to come out and have a look and he now advises he wont come out till i have the engine and drivetrain in the car, (pretty much till its ready for paint).....

I wasnt going to buy rims and tyres untill i was close to the finishing the build but like you said if you have the rims then you can work out what length the diff needs to be.

What front end Neil are you running in your fc....

Thanks Michael (intrepid)
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FireKraka
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« Reply #9 on: April 19, 2017, 10:30:37 AM »
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Hi Michael
The front end in my sedan is an HR front with CRS 60mm drop spindles and HZ/WB Girlock aluminium calipers and HZ/WB rotors.
I run rear mounted rack and pinion from V6 Conversions.

As for rims mate you may not need to buy the actual rims that you want but definitely decide on offset then you can maybe get an old set of rims with same offset to use for your diff, I don't think you really want to be almost at the end of your build and then have to go back and rework the diff at least I would not want to.

I'm in WA so can you explain to me why the engineer has stipulated that weight determines tyre width (anybody) and I can understand Michael why he wants to see everything mocked up; I think it would allow him to see everything in one go and this would probably reduce your cost as he would only be doing the one trip to ok everything.

As the other guys said if he is ok'ing the small block it may be worthwhile keeping him happy.
Regards
Neil H   
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intrepid
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« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2017, 11:43:17 AM »
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Hi Neil

I definitely do not want to be at the end of the build changing the diff... hence why i am asking for advice on what others have done, I total understand the reasoning for having the car totally mocked up, but on the first consultation he gave me a list of what i needed to achieve at each stage (3 in total) and he was charging me accordingly to that which i have almost completed the first stage and he is now advising he wants to see it before paint mocked up........ (He wanted to make sure the chassis strengthening kit i welded in was to his satisfactory) and i definitely do not want to be told at the end that it is not. 

as for the width of the wheels he had advised me it was a compliant rule to fit a SBC in an FC holden and that was a requirement. It was pretty much here is a list of what you need to do, go away and build it and call me at each stage when completed for him (engineer) to inspect,

Do you have photos of your build on the forum Neil,

As this is my first build and i am doing all of the work myself, i want to make sure i do it right the first time.

any advice or information would be a great help

kind regards
Michael
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FireKraka
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« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2017, 01:13:03 PM »
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Hey Michael;
Understand what you are saying mate if he keep changing the goal posts it doesn't make sense.

I think I will revisit the rules to see what is being said as I'm doing a 305 chev conversion on a guys FC sedan over here at the moment and don't want to get caught with anything that I'm not sure of; I'll be posting some photos of his build for him soon.

I've had my sedan 20 years, it was painted and had a new interior but that was about all and didn't know about the forum when I was doing the original build of it so didn't really take a lot of photos I have some of the engine fit-up and when I did the fuel tank mod and things like that however I do have a lot of the ute I'm doing because I bought that as a shell only and have had to start from the ground up; not sure if you are on the FB/EK forum but the photos are up there.

I have put up photos of the rack and pinion set up and the chassis that I'm using etc.

Good luck with your build and would love to see some photos.

Regards
Neil H
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intrepid
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« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2017, 04:44:23 PM »
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Hi Neil

I will definitely have a look at the build on the forum. With your Hr cross member did you build a new tongue or did you cut the old one off the old cross member and graft it onto the hr cross member.

I will definitaley start posting photos of the build on the forum, i have a long way to go...........


Kind regards
Michael (intrepid)
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mcl1959
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2017, 06:00:35 PM »
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Michael, don't use the tongue off the FC front end, it will have to be customised and reshaped to fit.
As luck has it, the FB-EH tongue fits perfectly with no modification at all.

Ken
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intrepid
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« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2017, 08:22:17 PM »
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Hi Ken

Thanks for that, i was going to modified the old one,

Im in sydney do you know where i might be able to get my hands on one,

Regards
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mcl1959
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« Reply #15 on: April 20, 2017, 09:36:10 PM »
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No, I'm in Melbourne.
There's a few places down here where I would suggest but I don't know much about NSW

Regards.  Ken
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FireKraka
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« Reply #16 on: April 21, 2017, 10:16:22 AM »
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Michael
My sedan build was done in several stages going from grey to bored and stroked 186 and eventually to the V6, I purchased the HR front end in the late 90's it had HR discs and calipers etc. but from memory it already had the outrigger replaced.
With my FB/EK ute project I used the FB/EK outrigger as Ken says.

My Ute project on the FB/EK forum is called Frankenstein.

Regards
Neil H
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intrepid
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« Reply #17 on: April 22, 2017, 07:12:36 PM »
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Thanks Ken hopefully i will be able to track one down,

I had a look at the build (frankenstein) looks great Neil..... it will be good to see it finished,

Are there any posts on this site of SBC installs in an FC, its definitely going to be a tight squeeze fitting the chev engine.... (starting to have second thoughts) but im up for the challenge.........

I will start posting pictures of my build,

Michael
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